IMRC code - help please!

[iany]

Hi All,

Seen some similar things in the forums but mostly relating to TDi engines, i have the IMRC error code on my 2.0 TFSI (2009) A4, cleared it and it appears again after a day or so, 3rd or 4th time now so obviously has an issue.

I have a Warranty direct policy on the car but they say i need to recover via breakdown provider to the dealers, (car does drive all be it a little hesitant) or recover to a garage they choose which saves me having to pay then claim back.(in this case halfords auto centres locally)

before i send it in i'd rather know what i'm up against, is this a common fault that a warranty will cover? if not i'd rather buy one and DIY!

I hear its a case of replace the whole manifold, any coding required etc. ? best to get it to audi dealer?


thanks for any advice, Ian.

[Doctle Odd]

19649/P3193/012691 - Ross-Tech Wiki (http://wiki.ross-tech.com/wiki/index.php/19649/P3193/012691)

[iany]

mines thrown this error P2015 Generic DTC: Intake Manifold Runner Position Sensor/Switch Circuit Range/Performance (http://www.dtcsearch.com/P2015/Generic/)

i haven't got VAGCOM, not one that works on this model always so using torque and an elm 327 BT.

[Doctle Odd]

18447/P2015/008213 - Ross-Tech Wiki (http://wiki.ross-tech.com/wiki/index.php/18447/P2015/008213)
look on this map for a site member near you with VCDS https://www.google.com/maps/d/viewer?mid=zwQHurSsCMz8.kMTwqF0PoXwc

[iany]

thanks,

I know its the IMRC position that's flagging the fault, seems to be a common theme if you google it but nothing clear on what the issue is, just "replace the manifold" which comes with the runner, flaps, vac motor , sensor attached, is there a DIY fix ?is it the sensor being faulty? rails sticking? vac unit degraded?

[FLAPPERJACK76]

Hi , it's either the potentiometer faulty at the end on the chain side of the runners or the flaps sticking. The fault normally flags up at high revs. My advice is to change the manifold it's not a job for the light hearted.

[iany]

Sounds like a nice job, is the part expensive?

[FLAPPERJACK76]

I think they are about £350 to £400 mark.

[iany]

Ouch, and I guess dealers only ? Not possible to change the sensor on its own?

[FLAPPERJACK76]

Have a look next to your oil filter it's that black disc shape potentiometer with tiny wires going to it. You need to remove manifold to get it out and also to test it. Time is money so dealer will replace the whole manifold especially when the fault flags up at high revs and is not normally replicated in a workshop.

[FLAPPERJACK76]

Forgot to mention there is no coding required. It's possible to do yourself but I don't think you ever want to do it again.

[iany]

thanks for the warning and the heads up on coding, that's handy to know, looked at a removal thread and can see its a fair task, lots to remove and need a few trained squirrels to handle the removal of certain bolts from the looks of it!!

either way i might get it done, hopefully on warranty, if not i'll DIY it, i worked as an auto engineer many years ago before moving into IT, got lots of tools and a little knowledge (i guess that makes me dangerous!!)

does the valve default to opening or closing (under no vac engine not running) ?? if so what happens if i disconnect the vac motor and fix the lever to the open position with something for a while while i wait?

i noticed that when CEL has come on that performance is a bit restricted, as you'd expect from wedging something in the air intake!!

[FLAPPERJACK76]

No need to mess with the flaps on throttle or on intake. Another after thought just check the plastic runner rod to the vacuum unit to see if it has come loose from the manifold (it's on the right hand side) if it has it's possible to get a repair kit and not a manifold .

[iany]

All looks ok, cleaned and lubed, rod moves ok and feels like it's not too tight. light on again after 50 miles.

Going to get a vac tester and check out the vac motor, trouble is that it obviously doesn't happen every time, so hard to trouble shoot.

[iany]

No need to mess with the flaps on throttle or on intake. Another after thought just check the plastic runner rod to the vacuum unit to see if it has come loose from the manifold (it's on the right hand side) if it has it's possible to get a repair kit and not a manifold .


Hi Flapperjack, meant to ask when you say "come loose", is that still attached to the rod on the vac motor and will move a bit?

mine is attached still, when you move the vac motor arm it moves the arm of the runner but, if i pull the end of the runner arm (the bit that attaches to the arm on the motor ) it moves about 5mm out or in.... could it be that its not attached to the flap runner? would that not flag a code all the time??

[FLAPPERJACK76]

Sounds Ok to me. If it's gone it's really gone and is virtually hanging out. I think your problem lies in the internal flaps and potentiometer.

[iany]

Tried anchoring them open and driving and it's not a lot different, drives ok just got the darn light on! Little bit of a hesitancy that could well be explained by them sticking. Sounds like a new manifold then 😭

[iany]

Sounds Ok to me. If it's gone it's really gone and is virtually hanging out. I think your problem lies in the internal flaps and potentiometer.

Ran for a while ok until last night......so now its hanging out and the car has a major power loss and air leak, recovered this morning and taken to Audi , waiting to hear on their diagnosis (should be an obvious one!) then if the warranty company will pay out.