View Full Version : Please Help Engine just died.
TaximanWsM
23-11-2013, 05:43 PM
Just started work in my 2.0 TDI and engine just died and won't restart. Had cambelt cover off and belt is OK. Engine shakes quite a lot when trying to restart but won't catch and fire up. Any ideas!!!
zollaf
23-11-2013, 06:09 PM
so many things it could be. lack of fuel or broken fuel pump. an electrical fault not firing the injectors, crank sensor, timing belt, even though it looks ok it might have slipped or stripped teeth.
so many things, but theres some pointers for a start. you could do with a scan first though.
TaximanWsM
23-11-2013, 06:14 PM
Thanks for the reply. Why does it always happen on a Saturday just before the busiest night of the week? Nowhere open to get anyone to look at it!!! Totally fed up
Doctle Odd
23-11-2013, 06:16 PM
You might find someone here that will scan your car, VWAF User Location Map - VCDS - Google Maps (https://maps.google.co.uk/maps/ms?msid=209563024277134815192.0004c505be14b22419db e&msa=0&ll=56.231139,-2.779541&spn=3.493691,10.821533&iwloc=0004c505cfcb6158e0447)
TaximanWsM
23-11-2013, 06:45 PM
Great idea but I don't think anyone would want to come out on a Saturday night!!! Thoroughly p***ed off..
Doctle Odd
23-11-2013, 06:47 PM
The members on here are nice guys (mostly) has to be worth a shot. Are you any way mechanically minded? Can you check the flap on the manifold is working?
TaximanWsM
23-11-2013, 06:50 PM
The guys on here are terrific. When I had no oil pressure, I had loads of help. I am a little mechanically minded but would know where to look to check that...
Doctle Odd
23-11-2013, 06:54 PM
It's on the inlet manifold beside the egr, it should open when you try to start the car, it can stick or the plastic levers can break
TaximanWsM
23-11-2013, 07:10 PM
Unfortunately, I'm stuck in town 3 miles from home and no tools on board, no recovery and a flat battery. Guess I'm buggered...!
TaximanWsM
24-11-2013, 09:52 AM
UPDATE:
Got recovery (AA) and their onboard diagnostics immediately showed the problem, Crank sensor.
I have a BKP engine. Can anyone tell me where is this sensor located?
Doctle Odd
24-11-2013, 10:27 AM
It's on the side of the block near the bell housing. It's held in place with 1 bolt and has a short cable with a connection plug on it. Buy genuine replacement !
TaximanWsM
24-11-2013, 10:30 AM
Is it on the front of the engine close to the oil filter or round the back of the engine?
Doctle Odd
24-11-2013, 10:33 AM
Technically it's on the side of the engine, to the right of and below the oil filter. Google images will help you find what it looks like.
Doctle Odd
24-11-2013, 11:04 AM
drop me a pm with your email and i'll send you a pdf
TaximanWsM
24-11-2013, 01:48 PM
Thanks for the PDF. All I need to do now is work out the best way of getting at it...
TaximanWsM
24-11-2013, 06:44 PM
I'm really puzzled now.
Just recharged and refitted the battery, after going flat from trying to restart the engine when it died yesterday, and the engine started almost straight away.
If the engine speed sensor (crank sensor) had gone as the AA's diagnostic said, how come my car is now running!!!!!!!!
zollaf
24-11-2013, 06:48 PM
there is a technical term for that, used quite a lot in the trade. we call it 'sods law'.
sometimes, things like this happen. maybe the cs wasn't the fault, maybe it was. maybe it didn't like the weather yesterday or just got too hot. maybe there is a duff connection somewhere.
if it won't start, a dead giveaway that its the cs playing up is the rev counter. this works off the cs , so if you are cranking and the rev counter stays on 0, then theres a good chance its the cs. if the rev counter shows 250 or so rpm, there is a good chance the cs is ok.
TaximanWsM
24-11-2013, 06:58 PM
Sat in the car on the drive at the moment. Car is idling nicely at about 800 rpm. When I give it a little blip on the throttle, there is only a split second delay on the rev counter moving. When I stop and restart, she starts straight away with a split second halt at about 200 or 300 RPM before going to 900 RPM then settling back to 800 on idle.
Should I get under the car and move the tray to see if I can get at and check the sensor and cable?????
zollaf
24-11-2013, 07:01 PM
yes, i would give it all a good wiggle to see if you can replicate the fault. what better way to spend a sunday evening than lying on the ground in the frost trying to get a car to stop running, thankfully its not raining.
TaximanWsM
24-11-2013, 07:12 PM
Tell me about it!!!!! Causes a few arguments at home as this is the 3rd breakdown this year. 1st was a new flywheel and gearbox bearing (£900).
2nd was the hex key/balance shaft/oil pump (£250).
Now the engine speed sensor (£?).
Question: Being a taxi and with the cold weather, sometimes I'm sat in the car while it is left idling between jobs to keep warm. Could a prolonged idle followed by moving away quickly, have caused the engine sensor to fail and stalled the car? Also have in mind it wouldn't restart and the engine was shaking badly while trying to restart!!!!
zollaf
24-11-2013, 07:14 PM
hmm, that shouldn't cause a fault. has it got a dpf ? if so, idling like that will block it. maybe thats a factor.
TaximanWsM
24-11-2013, 07:18 PM
What's a DPF?
Guest 2
24-11-2013, 07:18 PM
diesel particulate filter, check your data sticker for 7gn, if its there then no dpf is fitted, if you cant see 7gn then you have one.
TaximanWsM
24-11-2013, 07:21 PM
Is the data sticker the one in the spare wheel recess?
zollaf
24-11-2013, 07:21 PM
yes, or the service book
TaximanWsM
24-11-2013, 07:33 PM
Can't see 7GN.
Listed under the options section are:
BON, CN9, GOK, HJ7, JON, D3X, 1AT, 1G2, 1MH, 5RV, 5SJ, TB3, 3SO, 8TD, QG1, 8YL, 8GU, 8RM, 1LH, LO2, OYC and OG4.
Guest 2
24-11-2013, 07:36 PM
Anymore? None of those come back to DPF related.
B0N = Component parts set, complying with vehicle type for Great Britain, various parts
CN9 = Alloy wheels 7J x 16 H2 Offset 45
G0K = 6-speed manual transmission
HJ7 = Tires 215/55 R16 97W x1
J0N = Battery 330 A (61 Ah)
D3X = 4-cyl. turbo diesel eng.2.0 L/103 kW 16VTDI with pump-jet injection system base engine: T9G/TB3/TM0/TP0/TC3/TD3/TQ0
1AT = Electronic stabilization program (ESP)
1G2 = Steel spare wheel with original equipment tires
1MH = Leather steering wheel
5RV = Right exterior mirror: aspherical
5SJ = Left exterior mirror: convex
TB3 = 4-cylinder diesel engine 2.0 L unit 03G.B
3S0 = Without roof rails/roof load rack
8TD = Rear fog light for driving on the left
QG1 = Service interval prolongation
8YL = Radio with CD player
8GU = Alternator 140 A
8RM = 8 speakers (passive)
1LH = Disc brakes, front
L02 = Suspension range 02 installation control only, no requirement forecast
0YC = Weight range 3 installation control only, no requirement forecast
0G4 = Cable gearshift
TaximanWsM
24-11-2013, 07:44 PM
Lol. No that's the lot...
What does the DPF do again?
Sat here in the car all the while I've been on here with the engine idling, giving it the odd burst to 3500 RPM and so far no problems....
bit worried about taking it for a drive though in case it dies again...!
martin1810
24-11-2013, 08:49 PM
Unlike earlier engines the versions in Passat B6 can run on the cam shaft sensor if the crankshaft sensor fails. You probably have a dodgy crank sensor or wiring , hence your fault code. Engine will be harder to start when ever it has to use the cam sensor. Crank sensor change can be a real pain so be very very careful.
zollaf
24-11-2013, 08:51 PM
dpf, diesel particulate filter. basically its a filter that traps the large black bits of soot that come out of your tailpipe. once in a while it cleans itself , usually by using extra fuel to raise the temp of the exhaust to burn off the soot and turn it to ash. once full of ash, you fit a new one.
TaximanWsM
24-11-2013, 09:29 PM
Unlike earlier engines the versions in Passat B6 can run on the cam shaft sensor if the crankshaft sensor fails. You probably have a dodgy crank sensor or wiring , hence your fault code. Engine will be harder to start when ever it has to use the cam sensor. Crank sensor change can be a real pain so be very very careful.
I have a local mechanic to call in the morning. He has done some work for me before and also runs a fleet of taxis to hire. I'll see if he can run diagnostics on it for me and maybe have a look at the current sensor. Just a little worried it might die on me again...
TaximanWsM
25-11-2013, 08:59 AM
Is it a possibility that over revving the engine would result in my speed sensor fault and consequently cut the engine? Is it also a possibility that removing the battery for recharging, would clear a fault?
philipharmes
25-11-2013, 01:30 PM
Both the cam & crank sensors are just coils of wire in a plastic encapsulation. What can happen is that the wire breaks inside the encapsulation when hot, then as the engine/ sensor cools & contracts the wire joins up again & will work. So I would definately get it changed before it fails again. It should be relatively cheap to buy, but not sure how easy it is to change.
I've recently replaced my engine speed sensor.
Car would work fine until the engine got up to temp then it'd stall and struggle to restart. Sometimes it wouldn't even restart until I cleared the fault codes, this was usually at a roundabout or busy junction. Once restarted it'd run for a few more miles and then die completely.
The first start of a new day would be fine and so the cycle would continue.
Disconnecting the battery clears the fault code memory which enables you to restart the car and go on your way again.
Get it replaced ASAP. Not sure where it is on the B6 platform, but on my B5.5 unless you had a special second elbow halfway between your elbow and wrist it was a royal PITA to change without a lift.
Doctle Odd
25-11-2013, 05:19 PM
+1 on that it's a real piglet to get at
julianb
15-10-2016, 11:57 AM
Ive a Passat B6 2007 2.0D and have the same: Vag says p0321 engine speed sensor input circuit incorrect signal
haynes says "the engine speed sensor is mounted on the frontleft hand side of the cylinder block, adjacent to the mating surface of the block and transmission housing."
Ive been lead astray by haynes recently (you dont need to remove the rear calipers to replace the rear disks.) Can anyone help with a more exact location perhaps with a picture?
Powered by vBulletin® Version 4.2.4 Copyright © 2025 vBulletin Solutions, Inc. All rights reserved.