rear wiper motor wiring

[rich080487]

My rear wiper has never worked in my 2004 A3 8p. I decided it was time to try and fix it...

I can hear the relay behind the dash when I activate the steering column (http://shop.ebay.co.uk/?_nkw=steering+column) switch.
I took the rear trim out in the boot to reveal the motor. Used my ball joint splitter to remove the actual wiper arm (http://shop.ebay.co.uk/?_nkw=wiper+arm).
I decided to remove the cover from the actual motor, and it completely seized up!!! I think this is the classic snapped washer pipe leaking into the mechanism. Conclusion; replacement motor (http://www.amazon.co.uk/s/ref=nb_sb_noss?url=search-alias%3Daps&field-keywords=replacement motor) needed.

I tried checking the plug that went into the motor with a multimeter. There are 4 connectors, and I can detect 12V on a number of them. Does anyone know what each colour wire does in this part of the loom so that I check the problem is definately with the motor? Or a full wiring diagram that I can work out?

I mangaged to get hold of a newer rear wiper motor (http://shop.ebay.co.uk/?_nkw=rear+wiper+motor) from a friend who was breaking a 2011 A1.
This physically fits into the car, looks identical, and also has 4 connectors that are labelled the same on the motor. However the motor does not work when plugged into the car. Any advice on how to check this motor works by hooking it up to a spare 12V battery (http://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B0037PEEBQ/) I have lying around?

Should this A1 rear wiper motor work? Or am I fighting a loosing battle...
Any help appreciated, Rich

[Guest 2]

I can't see the A1 ever working, whats the part number on your current one and the part number on the A1 one?

[rich080487]

Current one is 8E9 955 711 C
Not sure what the A1 is, but the wiring plug looks the same. And physically it fits. I thought it might work... maybe if I swapped a few of the wires around...

What would you suggest? Do you know what multimeter checks I could do to confirm that the car wiring/switches/relays are all correct? Measurements at wiper loom plug?

[Guest 2]

How much was the A1 motor?

I would suggest returning the A1 motor and getting the correct A3 one?

This is what you need and corresponds to the number you posted above - GENUINE AUDI OE REAR ELECTRIC WIPER MOTOR A3 03- A4 97- A6 04- Q5 08- Q7 06- | eBay (http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/GENUINE-AUDI-OE-REAR-ELECTRIC-WIPER-MOTOR-A3-03-A4-97-A6-04-Q5-08-Q7-06-/170970101669?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item27ce9cb7a5)

[rich080487]

The A1 motor was £20 (cheap) and I figured would be of a better design than the 8P A3 so the same issue was unlikely to return. Thought I would give it a go for £20.

Thanks for the link to eBay, there are quite a few on there. Do you think it worth going for a new one or a good second hand one? Do you think it would be possible to rebuild my current one?

[Guest 2]

New one you'll get warranty/guarantee.

Just buy the A3 one and return the A1 one, less hassle in the long run.

[rich080487]

Sounds good to me. Thanks for advice and speedy replies.

[rich080487]

Just having a quick look on ebay etc...

Is there any reason I cannot use one intended for a VW? The part number is the same except for the first 3 digits? They are cheaper than the Audi ones...
Are there any other alternatives Seat, Skoda?

[Guest 2]

Mail the seller and see, if its compatible they should list it in the description but that listing states all Audi's its compatible with, valeo are good parts, don't get a cheapo non-branded/chinese one.

[NickPicks]

Just having a quick look on ebay etc...

Is there any reason I cannot use one intended for a VW? The part number is the same except for the first 3 digits? They are cheaper than the Audi ones...
Are there any other alternatives Seat, Skoda?

The first 3 digits indicate which car the part was designed for (although it may have been used on later cards without changing the part numbers). The other groups of numbers indicate the part group then specific part (I think)

One way to see what model car you can get a used part from is to register with vagcat.com, then type your part number into their part number search, which will give you a list of all the models yours was used on.

[UVB]

I have a feeling the vw one is slightly different in that it doesn't handle the washer line in the same way. The Audi one has the washer line fed through the centre spindle that the wiper arm attaches to.

I ended up getting my local dealer to price match one that was listed on ebay by Lincoln Audi. Didn't mind paying a little bit more for a genuine Audi as the design of this part is pants so the warranty could come in handy.

[alankru]

I got mine from Lincoln Audi on ebay (free express delivery and cheaper than the local Audi dealer) and you are correct UVB, the VW washer feed is different. I believe I am right in saying that the VW have the jet built into the spindle, whereas the Audi jets are detachable.

[rich080487]

Thanks for all the info everyone. Sorted!

I managed to check the wiring from the car loom and confirmed that it worked. Note to anyone else doing this; you need to have the boot closed (or microswitch by-passed) to properly check the functioning of the loom. It took me a few attempts before I realised this important fact...

I then had to remove the snap fit arms from the side of the connector on the loom so that it could fit into the A1 wiper motor (http://shop.ebay.co.uk/?_nkw=wiper+motor). I then secured it in place with a zip tie http://cdn.as-static.com/vb/images/smilies/biggrin.gif

All now works and I have an A1 motor fitted that will hopefully never leak water into the mechanism/boot liner!
Thanks again,
Rich

[elev8]

Sorry to jump in on this thread, but would someone mind jotting me a few steps on how to remove the trim from inside the tailgate in order to get at the washer/wiper mechanisms? 2009 Sportback.
My rear washer hasn't worked since I've owned the car, and I suspect broken fluid pipe is just dumping screenwash into the tailgate.
Hopefully a simple fix, but I'm wary to start blindly tugging at the tailgate trim in case I snap clips off by accident & make it rattle.
Any quick pointers on the best way to pop the inside trim piece off & on again?

Cheers.

[UVB]

There are two screws to remove first which have a star socket of some kind (not sure of the correct name). Imagine you are raising one hand to take a trilby off the top of your head in true gentlemanly fashion. With the tailgate open and standing just under it, that's about where those screws are as you won't see them from underneath.

Once those are off you will need to give the plastic section a good pull to get it off the clips.

[elev8]

Hmm... I thought late 2008 onwards standard fit was a deerstalker & the trilby was only on earlier models?
Do I need to use a different torque setting to account for the dual brims? Side flaps worn up or down?
thanks for your help! :)

[Guest 2]

As UVB says, two screws in the inner handle then pull on each corner of the trim and give it a good tug as it's held in by spring clips.


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