Battery for Audi A6 2006

[sapstar]

I have an audi A6 2006 with MMI 2g, sat nav, 6 cd changer and a dension system. I am planning to change the car battery. Can I please get a recommendation of how many Ah and CCA battery I should be buying? I am currently looking at the below two options.

Type 019 Varta Silver H3 Heavy Duty Car Battery 100AH | eBay (http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Type-019-Varta-Silver-H3-Heavy-Duty-Car-Battery-100AH-/281167462003?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item4176e2fe73)

****Brand New F18 Varta Silver Heavy Duty Car Battery 85AH 12V SIZE 110**** | eBay (http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Brand-New-F18-Varta-Silver-Heavy-Duty-Car-Battery-85AH-12V-SIZE-110-/271251177586?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item3f27d48072)

[Guest 2]

Try and get the same spec as what's fitted currently so you won't need to code it etc. that's what I'd do, saves any hassle.


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[gupsterg]

Is your current one an Audi genuine one Sapstar?

[sapstar]

Try and get the same spec as what's fitted currently so you won't need to code it etc. that's what I'd do, saves any hassle.


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Thanks for the reply Chris. I checked my battery and it says 760CCA, 88AH and 017 on it. Is it OK to go with a 90AH battery? I don't seem to find anything 88AH.

Also I went to KwikFit to get a quote on battery replacement. They ran some test and said I need both battery and alternator replaced and will cost me £800!!!. I will go to another place and get a second opinion. But do you know if there is any way for me to tell if there is an alternator problem? I don't have any problems with the car which make me feel I need to replace alternator.

[sapstar]

hi gupsterg, how are you. I am not sure if it is a genuine one. How can I tell if it is genuine or not?

[Guest 2]

What does it say on it?

Any long part numbers or any vw/Audi logos?

[sapstar]

What does it say on it?

Any long part numbers or any vw/Audi logos?

Hi Chris, I haven't looked around the battery, but on the top, there are only 2 stickers. 1 with bar code and the other with the specs. I will get a picture and post it shortly. I haven't seen any audi logos on the top.

[Sam]

Also I went to KwikFit to get a quote on battery replacement. They ran some test and said I need both battery and alternator replaced and will cost me £800!!!. I will go to another place and get a second opinion. But do you know if there is any way for me to tell if there is an alternator problem? I don't have any problems with the car which make me feel I need to replace alternator.

Are you replacing the battery as a preventative measure or for a specific reason?

BBC - Media Centre - BBC One's Your Money, Their Tricks investigates Kwik-Fit (http://www.bbc.co.uk/mediacentre/latestnews/2013/your-money-their-tricks-release.html)

Assuming you have no issues whatsoever and you're simply replacing the battery to be safe, lodge your feedback here;

Kwik Fit - Response to the BBC "Your Money, Their Tricks" (http://www.kwik-fit.com/your-money-their-tricks.asp)

This really needs to stop.

[gupsterg]

I checked my battery and it says 760CCA, 88AH and 017 on it. Is it OK to go with a 90AH battery? I don't seem to find anything 88AH.

Replacing 88 Ah with 90Ah isn't gonna causing any coding issues, assuming coding is fine in the first place ...

hi gupsterg, how are you. I am not sure if it is a genuine one. How can I tell if it is genuine or not?

Not too bad mate :D , hope you are well? :)


Hi Chris, I haven't looked around the battery, but on the top, there are only 2 stickers. 1 with bar code and the other with the specs. I will get a picture and post it shortly. I haven't seen any audi logos on the top.

There is usually a cover clipped on top (item 6) , remove that by undoing catch on strap (item 30) Link:- http://www.jimellisaudiparts.com/showAssembly.aspx?ukey_assembly=753587&ukey_make=1081&ukey_model=15625&modelYear=2010&searchString=battery

If you had VCDS you could get data out of battery regulation module to check battery health and other aspects.

Is there a VCDS forum member located on the map in Chris's signature which could scan car? perhaps do some measuring block checks?

[apole]

Hi there,

There are a number of things to consider here, firstly is the battery just old and failing, or is something causing it to go flat? In my case, I had a combination of factors causing the battery to improperly charge and drain. The main culprit for me was the battery module was not coded at all so could not properly control the charge/discharge of the battery, causing DIS messages etc.

Recoding this properly fixed that. I also suspected that one of the modules (Bose AMP, tuner or GPS was not turning off properly and causing a drain on the battery. To be safe I rewired these via a fused ignition switched relay to a seperate fuse box in the boot. This cuts the power to these when the engine is off and has not cut into any existing wiring so can easily be removed. Since then no issues at all, and I have put the GPS module back to how it was and no drain there. May add other 2 and see if they are okay.

You can get your battery type from the PR codes too, that is how it left the factory. I'd go with that as it's possible in the past someone has put a different capacity in there. Mine for reference is PRCode: J1U = Battery 450 A (95 Ah)

I would get a VCDS scan to start with, you are likely to see all kinds of messages like this:

Address 61: Battery Regul. Labels: 4F0-910-181.lbl
Part No SW: 4F0 910 181 E HW: 4F0 915 181 A
Component: ENERGIEMANAGER H12 0470
Revision: 00000000 Serial number: 00000000013427
Shop #: WSC 00000 000 00000
VCID: 2341EBBF9B45


Component: von
Coding: 000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000
Shop #: WSC 00000 000 00000


5 Faults Found:
02273 - Quiescent Current Stage 2
000 - - - Intermittent
Freeze Frame:
Fault Status: 00100000
Fault Priority: 7
Fault Frequency: 35
Mileage: 50945 km
Time Indication: 0
Date: 2011.02.18
Time: 18:25:18


02276 - Quiescent Current Stage 5
000 - - - Intermittent
Freeze Frame:
Fault Status: 00100000
Fault Priority: 7
Fault Frequency: 30
Mileage: 50945 km
Time Indication: 0
Date: 2011.02.18
Time: 18:33:46


02274 - Quiescent Current Stage 3
000 - - - Intermittent
Freeze Frame:
Fault Status: 00100000
Fault Priority: 7
Fault Frequency: 20
Mileage: 56599 km
Time Indication: 0
Date: 2011.07.12
Time: 21:36:22


02256 - Quiescent Current
001 - Upper Limit Exceeded - Intermittent
Freeze Frame:
Fault Status: 00100001
Fault Priority: 7
Fault Frequency: 162
Reset counter: 31
Mileage: 57649 km
Time Indication: 0
Date: 2011.07.14
Time: 04:37:27


02277 - Quiescent Current Stage 6
000 - - - Intermittent
Freeze Frame:
Fault Status: 00100000
Fault Priority: 7
Fault Frequency: 19
Mileage: 63012 km
Time Indication: 0
Date: 2011.11.19
Time: 20:26:26

That is my suggestion for what it's worth, it maybe something simple like no coding throwing everthing out, or something draining the battery and causing it to fail. If you need a new battery I would stick with something like Varta, Bosch etc as these are listed in VCDS for coding purposes if you need to re-code.


Good luck.

Andy

[sapstar]

Hi Gupsterg, Apole, Thanks for the detailed responses. I have went back and checked my battery again and see it may not be a Genuine Audi and just a generic one.

Last time when Gupsterg analysed my car data sticker and sent me the meaning of all the codes, I had "J0Z = Battery 520 A (110 Ah)" in that. This might mean that the car originally came with a 110Ah battery and later got replaced to an 88Ah it has now. I had my fault codes checked with this battery before, may not be with VCDS. But it didn't show anything related to battery at that time. I see that there is someone near my work with VCDS as per Chirs's map. I will try contacting him and see if I can get my car checked. If I can have peace off mind by just buying 110Ah battery and without any coding, then I am happy to do this.

I just checked battery with a multimeter and it was giving me reading of 12.5 when engine is off and around 13.7 when engine is running. Not sure if these readings really say anything. The battery itself looks line new. There is no corrosion on the terminals.

[apole]

No worries. I'd go with the size fitted orginally, likely when it was changed they went for smaller/cheaper option.

Volts you found would indicate alternator is working but you do need a VCDS scan to know more about what is going on. Looks can be deceptive, is there a date sticker anywhere on the battery?

Andy

[gupsterg]

Now this may mean your battery regulation module is coded as a 110Ah but a 88Ah is fitted, depend what occurred on changeover. If you get VCDS auto scan done and post log we can tell from that if all is correct coding wise :).

When you have you car unlocked the car is partially alive, running multimeter test does show something but is inaccurate as a no load battery test.

You will note the hazard light switch will glow on the A6 after locking and then switch off after a while, this denotes when car goes to sleep.

I could run multimeter tests on mine when car was locked as in an Avant the battery is still visible whilst fitted. I don't know if boot left open on a saloon will allow car to enter sleep mode.

Are you just changing due to wishing to? or are you having issues? pre-empting winter issues with old battery?

[sapstar]

Andy - There is no date sticker visible on the battery.

Gupsterg - I want to change just to avoid any issues during winter. I travel quite a lot and don't want to get stuck somewhere in winter due to dead battery. Last year I noticed that the car was taking a while to start in winters. But perfectly fine after the winter. Also I had to get jump start twice due to dead battery. Both times because I spent some time in the car with radio on and engine off (around 45 mins).

I have one problem. Not sure if this is normal behaviour or a battery related issue. When I turn iginition to on position, the surround system goes off and turns on after few seconds.

[gupsterg]

I went for a Bosch S5 110Ah battery, as mine was a 110Ah from factory as well.

Coding was correct so all I did was change the serial in the battery regulation module to make the car aware it is has a new battery.

Here is VCDS info Link:- Audi A6 (4F) Battery Replacement - Ross-Tech Wiki (http://wiki.ross-tech.com/wiki/index.php?title=Audi_A6_%284F%29_Battery_Replaceme nt&redirect=no)

Do connect the vent tube (item 3) and block one side off with cap (item 2) Link:- http://www.jimellisaudiparts.com/showAssembly.aspx?ukey_assembly=753587&ukey_make=1081&ukey_model=15625&modelYear=2010&searchString=battery.

[2fquick]

I went for this Varta I1 Varta Silver Car Battery / Varta Batteries / Batteries by Application (http://www.batterymegastore.co.uk/product/I1/)

When I was looking for a battery I found a lot of sites listed a 100Ah battery not the 110Ah originally fitted.

[sapstar]

Hi Gupsterg - I will probably get the below battery.
Varta Silver I1 Heavy Duty Car Battery 110AH SIZE 200 | eBay (http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Varta-Silver-I1-Heavy-Duty-Car-Battery-110AH-SIZE-200-/281124570306?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item41745484c2)

I have contacted a forum user who has vcds. If I get some help, I will get the faults checked. If not, I am considering just going with 110Ah without any recoding.

[sapstar]

hi 2fquick - you beat me to it. I found the same battery :).

[MarkTM]

My advice would be to:

1. Purchase and fit the correct battery for your car, certainly the 110 with it's higher cranking amp needed for all your electrics
2. Invest in a good quality battery charger something along the lines of the CTEK MXS 5.0 that I purchased for under £50 in delivery.
3. Connect the permenant connection lead to your Audi and plug it in periodically (bi-monthly) to condition your battery

That way your battery should last well beyond it's guaranteed life :)

[sapstar]

My advice would be to:

1. Purchase and fit the correct battery for your car, certainly the 110 with it's higher cranking amp needed for all your electrics
2. Invest in a good quality battery charger something along the lines of the CTEK MXS 5.0 that I purchased for under £50 in delivery.
3. Connect the permenant connection lead to your Audi and plug it in periodically (bi-monthly) to condition your battery

That way your battery should last well beyond it's guaranteed life :)

Hi Mark, Thanks for the advice. Yes I will be going with a 110Ah battery. The car charger is not feasible for me as my car is parked behind my house in a car park. So it is not possible to connect to a power supply. I drive around 300 miles every week, so I think the battery should be fully charged all the time any way.

[NickPicks]

Also I went to KwikFit to get a quote on battery replacement. They ran some test and said I need both battery and alternator replaced and will cost me £800!!!. I will go to another place and get a second opinion. But do you know if there is any way for me to tell if there is an alternator problem? I don't have any problems with the car which make me feel I need to replace alternator.

Go somewhere else and get a FIRST opinion, and resolve never to go anywhere near kwik fit ever again.

[sapstar]

Hi Guys - just called Battery Megastore and they says that size 020 will not fit in my car as it is 393 mm in length. Their database only shows 315 as the maximum length for Audi A6 2006 Diesel 2.0. Can someone confirm the battery size for my car? Currently I have 017 size in there, but it might not be the right one. Also I cant find 110Ah in 017 size.

[sapstar]

Just checked the battery in my car and see that there is gap for a larger battery to be installed. The currently installed battery is around 350mm. So 4 cm will not be a problem. Finally ordered this one.

Varta Silver I1 Heavy Duty Car Battery 110AH | eBay (http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Varta-Silver-I1-Heavy-Duty-Car-Battery-110AH-/271284286607?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item3f29cdb48f)

Thanks for all the help.

[sapstar]

Ordered the battery now. Will follow the instructions from here once I get it.
Battery Replacement: 2005-2010 Audi A6 - 2008 Audi A6 3.2L V6 (http://www.carcarekiosk.com/video/2008_Audi_A6_3.2L_V6/battery/replace_battery)

Gupsterg - do I need to buy the plug which you mentioned below? or it comes with the battery? Also the vent tube is currently hanging out in my car. Wasn't sure where it needs to be connected. Will make sure I connect it correctly with the new battery.



Do connect the vent tube (item 3) and block one side off with cap (item 2) Link:- http://www.jimellisaudiparts.com/sho...String=battery (http://www.jimellisaudiparts.com/showAssembly.aspx?ukey_assembly=753587&ukey_make=1081&ukey_model=15625&modelYear=2010&searchString=battery).

[sapstar]

Got the battery and installed it today. Didn't use any backup battery. So lost the time and trip counter. Rest all seems to be working fine. Thanks every one for helping out.

[Guest 2]

Got the battery and installed it today. Didn't use any backup battery. So lost the time and trip counter. Rest all seems to be working fine. Thanks every one for helping out.

If your esp light is on you can fix it by doing a full lock to lock on the steering and go a short drive and it will clear.

You'll also have to re-do the one-touch on the windows but that's a 30 second job.


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[Sam]

Now I can finally say;

Battery for Audi A6 2006? Seems like a fair swap, you have a deal!

</coat>

[sapstar]

If your esp light is on you can fix it by doing a full lock to lock on the steering and go a short drive and it will clear.

You'll also have to re-do the one-touch on the windows but that's a 30 second job.


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Hi Chris - Thanks for the info. I had to deal with ESP light coming on before, when I had to do jump starts. It went off by itself. So not worried that much. I checked all the windows but I have convenience open already enabled even after the battery change, just like before.

I have noticed one problem though which I didn't have before. When I put my keys in the ignition, I hear a quick cracking sound through the speakers, before the audio start. This wasn't there before the battery swap. Once the audio is running, I don't hear any strange noises.

I have again checked all the voltages with voltmeter while engine is off and running (with air con, lights, radio on). I see around 1V difference in the readings. According to some information I went through, if there is more than 0.5V increase, then the alternator is working fine. Not sure if this is the right way to check an issue with the Alternator, but for now, I am not going to bother about it. I will get a fault code check when I have a chance.

[Guest 2]

Yep, just sit back and enjoy the car. Clear all faults and then scan when you have the time.