2002 Audi A4 1.8t Oil warning light after 5 mins of driving then engine management light comes on

[ScottyDoo]

can anyone please help! i bought a 2002 audi a4 1.8t with 123k on the clock 4 days ago and now the red oil light cas come on on the computer/dash bit :aargh4: shortly after that the yellow engine management light comes on and the service light.
it sounds HORRENDOUS too! like theres no oil lubricating the engine even after i topped it up with 0.5L of mobil 1 5w30! sounds like theres a bag of spanners in the engine and thats just on tick over or if you rev it at 2000rpm.

please someone tell me how to fix this or give me some pointers as i need my car for work and this is my second audi ive owned, my last one being a mk1 a3 1.9tdi quattro and i ended up pouring over £900 into it over 1month and 6days of ownership. im starting to get sick or chucking money at audis!!! i had a astra bertone convertible for a month and a half inbetween the two audis and that had no problems at all!!! thought german engineering was supposed to be reliable?! losing the will to live here!!!

thank you!! :zx11:

[Doctle Odd]

Firstly don't start the car. You need a diagnostic scan, your oil pump could have died or the engine could be sludged up. Did you buy if off a dealer? It could also be a dodgy oil pressure switch and a damaged drive belt pulley or alternator pulley :)

[ScottyDoo]

ive got to as i need it for work, i have taken it into rapid fit just over the road from my work and they have come back with a cranksensor error code and the oil pump has died. i bought it privately, 123k on the clock, 2002 reg. it was running fine up until yesterday morning then it just had oil pressure light and engine management lights come up... drove it 6 miles into work today and it was only as i got into the town where i work that the oil light came on and when i pulled up at the garage the engine management light come on... ive just taken it to another garage down the road for a second opinion... will know more at 5pm but what shall i do in the meantime?? is there any estimated prices for all this is going to cost?! :( cant believe its happened again with frickin' audi's!!!!! :@

[Doctle Odd]

If the car is started with a broken oil pump it's not good. The oil pump is relatively easy to change but starting and driving the car even for a few yards could make changing the oil pump pointless. When you drove it to the second garage did the oil light go out? Is the orange oil level light coming on? From here it doesn't look good

[Doctle Odd]

Do you happen to know your engine code?

[ScottyDoo]

no but the fuel gauge then read zero so the fuel light was on on the on board computer/dash. no not the orange level light... the red oil warning light only comes on after about 3-4 mins driving it

[ScottyDoo]

Do you happen to know your engine code?

no im afraid i dont, im back at work now and my cars at the second garage...

[Doctle Odd]

IF the engine is ruined it can sometimes be cheaper to buy an MOT failure and change the engine. A new short motor or a rebuild would cost more than I'd like to spend

[ScottyDoo]

i dont know if the engines ruined yet but if i keep driving it as it is then i will ruin it but i cant go without a car for work or i will lose my job.
its weird how the car doesnt pick up on it when the engine is initially first started.

seeing as i only bought it on wednesday night do you think this has been coming for a while and thats why she sold it or just pure bad <removed> luck?!

thanks for your help on this

[Doctle Odd]

If she was selling the car because of this fault you'd have spotted it. Wait until the other garage has a look those quick fit guys aren't mechanics. It could just be the sensor and something loose like a pulley

[ScottyDoo]

true... still cant help but wonder... very convenient anyway!

hmm i hope so! its weird... ill talk you through what happens:

start the car from cold - no odd noises or smoke
go off driving it - all is fine for the first 3-4 minutes or until engine has reached just under the mid way mark
red oil light flashes up and beeps - stays on and keeps flashing
keep driving - then car starts to sound really really ropey... like theres something loose / a clicking sound when you rev
driving more - then engine starts to make weird popping/grinding sounds (like the engine has no oil)
yellow engine management light comes on and sometimes the little yellow car with a spanner icon comes on
stop car. turn off. engine clicks and pops where it seems hot.
let it cool down for 5-10 mins, put a tad more oil in to lubricate the top of the engine (just making sure)
start car again, no odd noises and repeats the process all over again! :zx11:

[mjhamilton]

are you actually losing any oil??.. you say you keep topping up but what is the current level??... too much oil in the system can be just as bad as too little

[ScottyDoo]

are you actually losing any oil??.. you say you keep topping up but what is the current level??... too much oil in the system can be just as bad as too little

im not too sure... it doesnt seem so but if the engine isnt getting any oil to the top of the engine is just as bad isnt it? ive only put about 400-500ml of 5w-30 fully synthetic mobil1 oil in so far...

[ScottyDoo]

Audi A4 1.8T Limited Edition 2004 | eBay (http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Audi-A4-1-8T-Limited-Edition-2004-/130974214446?pt=Automobiles_UK&hash=item1e7eabe92e)

just seen this and seems it isnt just me...

[Sam]

A flashing red oil light is nothing to do with the oil level it's indicating that you have an issue with the oil pressure.

Always check the dipstick before adding more oil as above, adding too much is almost as bad as having none.

You may well need the car for work but if you continue to drive it, you will kill it.

[ScottyDoo]

but what could be causing the light and reasons behind it? okay i wont add anymore oil then... :confused:

[Doctle Odd]

3 things usually cause this light to come on. Low oil pressure because of worn/broken pump. Build up of sludge. Sensor not working properly or cheap sensor. The orange oil level light should come on long before there's any damage

[ScottyDoo]

3 things usually cause this light to come on. Low oil pressure because of worn/broken pump. Build up of sludge. Sensor not working properly or cheap sensor. The orange oil level light should come on long before there's any damage

okay... how much of a job is it to replace a oil pump on an A4? ive seen them on ebay for about £50...

[Sam]

On an old(er) 1.8T the top cause, as Doc says, was/is a blocked oil pick up pipe due to sludge.

The odd person will tell you there's no such thing, but a search of any forum or the internet says otherwise.

Quickest and simplest way to see what's going on is to drop the oil pan and have a look - depending on how handy you are with the spanners of course - if you've got a local garage you trust (and recovery!) ask them how much it'll cost for an investigation.

If you want to go into armed with as much information as you can, VCDS User Location Map (http://www.vwaudiforum.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?134957-VCDS-User-Location-Map) - have a look in this thread, see if you can find anyone local who can come to you and scan your car for faults to give you a wider view.

As for how easy the job is - have a look here - 98 A4 B5 1.8t AEB oil pump replacement - AudiForums.com (http://www.audiforums.com/forum/b5-models-69/98-a4-b5-1-8t-aeb-oil-pump-replacement-194419/) - for a fairly handy DIY. If it scares you, best to pay someone :)

[ScottyDoo]

On an old(er) 1.8T the top cause, as Doc says, was/is a blocked oil pick up pipe due to sludge.

The odd person will tell you there's no such thing, but a search of any forum or the internet says otherwise.

Quickest and simplest way to see what's going on is to drop the oil pan and have a look - depending on how handy you are with the spanners of course - if you've got a local garage you trust (and recovery!) ask them how much it'll cost for an investigation.

If you want to go into armed with as much information as you can, VCDS User Location Map (http://www.vwaudiforum.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?134957-VCDS-User-Location-Map) - have a look in this thread, see if you can find anyone local who can come to you and scan your car for faults to give you a wider view.

As for how easy the job is - have a look here - 98 A4 B5 1.8t AEB oil pump replacement - AudiForums.com (http://www.audiforums.com/forum/b5-models-69/98-a4-b5-1-8t-aeb-oil-pump-replacement-194419/) - for a fairly handy DIY. If it scares you, best to pay someone :)


thank all you boys for your help with this, im just at my wits end because its my second audi and its just problem after problem...

basically i text the girl i bought the A4 from on wednesday evening and this was her reply :

"Omg that's very unfortunate but I assure u there was nothing wrong when I had it, I had a new oil pump done when i got it which was £550 so I have lost money on it selling it for 1650 having spent more than 2500 on it. i wouldn't have thought it was because it wasn't looked after properly because I always put expensive oil in it and had work done that needed to be done. I did tell u it hasn't been serviced since January so I have been honest. U drove it and looked round it and bought it so yes it is sold as seen sorry"

yes improbably going to get slated for this but is there anything to be learned from that reply? e.g could it not be the oil pump as she said she had a new one when she bought it and that was 18-20 months ago...

because it hasnt been serviced since january is it more likely to be the Sludge problem?

and its a 2002 model... would the '98 link be the same type?

again thanks for all the help so far!!

[zollaf]

she could have taken it into a garage and spent a lot of money on it for the oil sludge problem and ended up being taken for ride. maybe the engine had a flush and nothing else. maybe a used pump was fitted, or one of very poor quality, who knows.
you buy privately, you take a risk. maybe she is conning you but i doubt it. you have just been unlucky. get that sump dropped and see whats what, or you might be best with another engine as this one has been driven with no oil pressure.

[ScottyDoo]

okay, thank you, its at a local garage down the road, i will tell them all this when i go and see the car after 5pm... id rather not get a whole new engine as im not exactly minted and ive only had the car 4 days and this has happened....

[Doctle Odd]

Drop the sump by all means but I fear you'd need to totally strip it at this stage shells, bores, cams, shaft would all need checked. Not a job you can do in an afternoon. Lot's of DIY mechanics and one man shops use the wrong oil in these engines. Result is sludge which means removing the sump. If the new pump was fitted within the last 12 months you might have a basis for a claim. Luckily people bring these cars in for MOT with the front suspension hanging off them and they are sold off when they fail. If you decide to replace the engine get one that runs well and goes up to temp. Remove the sump clean it and the sieve before fitting the engine. If you can do the work yourself it won't be too bad and you'll get some money for scrapping the donor car

[zollaf]

well you say the engine was rattly but had to drive it, and sounded like metal on metal ?
that could have been all the metal bits inside the engine rubbing against eachother and wearing themselves out. what i would hate to happen is you to spend the money on removing the sump and new pump, oil etc, for the engine to go bang in a few days time. normal advice if the oil pressure warning comes on is to stop the engine asap and not move it again until the issue has been resolved.

[ScottyDoo]

well you say the engine was rattly but had to drive it, and sounded like metal on metal ?
that could have been all the metal bits inside the engine rubbing against eachother and wearing themselves out. what i would hate to happen is you to spend the money on removing the sump and new pump, oil etc, for the engine to go bang in a few days time. normal advice if the oil pressure warning comes on is to stop the engine asap and not move it again until the issue has been resolved.

but whats odd is that it isnt instant? as in it only shows up a problem about 5 minutes into driving it when the engine's warmed up? if it was the pump or the pick up tube then wouldnt the onboard computer recognise it the second the car was started?

i deperately need a car for work... shall i just cut my losses and sell it as it is? cant believe this has happened. 4 days!! 4 DAYS!!!! :zx11:

[zollaf]

now that is weird. yet the engine sounds all rattly like it has no oil. so for 5 mins its fine, then the problems start ? oil light on and rattly ?

[Doctle Odd]

Was it a proper garage you left it in? They should have enough information for you to make a decision one way or another. Depending on the engine code you can pick one up in the local paper for small money surprisingly small in some cases, usually no MOT or an MOT failure. A breaker will charge you big money for a bare engine usually with no guarantee just a promise of a replacement engine if it's duff.
but whats odd is that it isnt instant? as in it only shows up a problem about 5 minutes into driving it when the engine's warmed up? if it was the pump or the pick up tube then wouldnt the onboard computer recognise it the second the car was started?

i deperately need a car for work... shall i just cut my losses and sell it as it is? cant believe this has happened. 4 days!! 4 DAYS!!!! :zx11:

[ScottyDoo]

now that is weird. yet the engine sounds all rattly like it has no oil. so for 5 mins its fine, then the problems start ? oil light on and rattly ?

yep, see my earlier post in the blow by blow account of what happens... after starting it from cold it sounds fine and has no problems yet 5 minutes into driving when the engine has warmed up (i guess) the red oil warning light flashes up and then the engine starts getting rattly until i stop the car and engine... let it rest for 5-10 minutes start the car up and it repeats itself...

[Doctle Odd]

Alternator pulley? DMF? Belt tensioner?
now that is weird. yet the engine sounds all rattly like it has no oil. so for 5 mins its fine, then the problems start ? oil light on and rattly ?

[ScottyDoo]

Was it a proper garage you left it in? They should have enough information for you to make a decision one way or another. Depending on the engine code you can pick one up in the local paper for small money surprisingly small in some cases, usually no MOT or an MOT failure. A breaker will charge you big money for a bare engine usually with no guarantee just a promise of a replacement engine if it's duff.

yes its Motatec - in Shaftesbury, Dorset. im hoping so Doc! yeah and the breakers want some serious money for an engine... then again its going to cost a bomb in labour to fit! arghhh

[ScottyDoo]

Alternator pulley? DMF? Belt tensioner?

all the lights work fine and its not losing any charge from the battery...
DMF? flywheel? i did wonder... but what would that bring the oil light up for? its got a weird tapping sound when the engines hot and you just nip in to the turbo and change gear... like the flywheel has sheared or snapped bits off and theyre rattling around in there but again its fine when its cold! :/

belt tensioner for?

[Doctle Odd]

DIY on the engine. Tensioner i mentioned is on drive belt
yes its Motatec - in Shaftesbury, Dorset. im hoping so Doc! yeah and the breakers want some serious money for an engine... then again its going to cost a bomb in labour to fit! arghhh

[ScottyDoo]

being honest here... im not amazing at DIY on cars, bikes yes but not so much on cars and especially on audis as i dont want to do more damage than good!

any advice seeing as im useless?!

[Sam]

Out of interest, you say "the first 5 minutes of driving", are those first few minutes done on local, small roads where the engine doesn't rev any higher than 2000 rpm?

[ScottyDoo]

Out of interest, you say "the first 5 minutes of driving", are those first few minutes done on local, small roads where the engine doesn't rev any higher than 2000 rpm?

yes, all local b roads round by me, id say the engine went no higher than 2500rpm max, i tend to try and stay out of the turbo until the engine is warm obviously....

[Sam]

I may be talking crap, but I seem to remember early model AEB engined Passats (same platform as the A4 B5) used to have a 'feature', either by design or otherwise, that meant the oil pressure light didn't come on until the revs exceeded 2k rpm.

BUT! If I remember rightly, it used to go off again when the revs dropped back down, so this may or may not be relevant to your cause :)

Best advise at the moment, get the car scanned for faults - the garage where the car is now offer a scan and an hour of their time investigating for £60. A scan only is £25 - go for it!

[ScottyDoo]

I may be talking crap, but I seem to remember early model AEB engined Passats (same platform as the A4 B5) used to have a 'feature', either by design or otherwise, that meant the oil pressure light didn't come on until the revs exceeded 2k rpm.

BUT! If I remember rightly, it used to go off again when the revs dropped back down, so this may or may not be relevant to your cause :)

Best advise at the moment, get the car scanned for faults - the garage where the car is now offer a scan and an hour of their time investigating for £60. A scan only is £25 - go for it!

see i managed to do nearly 5 miles this morning before the oil warning light came on... which is so odd!!

yeah im going to, and shouldnt take 5 mins! but its getting the time and again im desperate for a car for work....

[ScottyDoo]

I may be talking crap, but I seem to remember early model AEB engined Passats (same platform as the A4 B5) used to have a 'feature', either by design or otherwise, that meant the oil pressure light didn't come on until the revs exceeded 2k rpm.

BUT! If I remember rightly, it used to go off again when the revs dropped back down, so this may or may not be relevant to your cause :)

Best advise at the moment, get the car scanned for faults - the garage where the car is now offer a scan and an hour of their time investigating for £60. A scan only is £25 - go for it!

oh, forgot to mention i had it scanned at rapid fit across the road from my work and it came back with a camshaft error sensor code... which has no relevance to the oil pressure

[Sam]

Do you have a copy of the exact codes?

[Doctle Odd]

Any update on the car?

[mjhamilton]

it still amazes me that you are still driving this around so much.. I know you need it for work but if you blow the engine blow you will wish you took the bus

You didn't answer the question - you say you are topping up with oil, are you losing oil at all??

[Doctle Odd]

I think Sam was right about the oil pressure light only coming on around 2k revs

[ScottyDoo]

update on yesterdays events:

picked the car up and no oil warning lights and no sounding like a bag of spanners!!! they didnt do anything at motatec but jack it up and have a look and take it for a test drive?! and all so far is fine! what could this be? just some sludge that got stuck in the pick up pipe and was sucked through?! im going to see someone off the forum with a VCDS hopefully on thursday evening to scan for codes but ive ordered an engine flush just to be sure as i dont want this stress again!!

[zollaf]

this is all very strange.

[ScottyDoo]

this is all very strange.

tell me about it! im the one that its happening to! :aargh4:

[Sam]

update on yesterdays events:

picked the car up and no oil warning lights and no sounding like a bag of spanners!!! they didnt do anything at motatec but jack it up and have a look and take it for a test drive?! and all so far is fine! what could this be? just some sludge that got stuck in the pick up pipe and was sucked through?! im going to see someone off the forum with a VCDS hopefully on thursday evening to scan for codes but ive ordered an engine flush just to be sure as i dont want this stress again!!

In my uneducated opinion, it might be wise to get the scanning/fixing out the way before you flush anything.

No one's mentioned water, but what the hell, I'll go for it! Are your carpets dry?

[ScottyDoo]

In my uneducated opinion, it might be wise to get the scanning/fixing out the way before you flush anything.

No one's mentioned water, but what the hell, I'll go for it! Are your carpets dry?

im waiting on a member from here to get back to me about thursday evening then ill know more :) yes, bone dry! why whats the alternative?!

[Sam]

im waiting on a member from here to get back to me about thursday evening then ill know more :) yes, bone dry! why whats the alternative?!

Good man - better to be as fully informed as possible.

The alternative is sopping wet :D

The B5 platform is notorious for water ingress. A rotting pollen filter housing seal and blocked plenum drainage holes usually result in a passenger footwell swimming pool and FUBAR'd electronics (they live under the carpet and don't like swimming). The result is a light show on the dash, similar-ish to what you're seeing.

[ScottyDoo]

Good man - better to be as fully informed as possible.

The alternative is sopping wet :D

The B5 platform is notorious for water ingress. A rotting pollen filter housing seal and blocked plenum drainage holes usually result in a passenger footwell swimming pool and FUBAR'd electronics (they live under the carpet and don't like swimming). The result is a light show on the dash, similar-ish to what you're seeing.

that is the aim! :)

har har! :o

yeah i checked all that when the light came on... but nope, as dry as a nuns.... you know the rest! :p

i will update more when ive been and had a scan... hopefully should find out the cause!

[fourringsrus]

Well boys and girls until I read the late post;ie all seems to be ok again, would anyone think I was a mile off thinking about a nackered turbo broken/breaking up, losing enough oil to throw lights up and rattling moreso when reaching higher revs, just a thought

Stuart

[Doctle Odd]

I never thought of that but I doubt jacking up the car would fix it. I think bad oil pressure sensor and something loose?

[zollaf]

he didn't mention any loss of power (or did he ).

[Doctle Odd]

I don't think he did Z but you know yourself 30 seconds without oil that engine is gone?

[zollaf]

as long as 30 seconds ?
this is why i am suprised he is still able to drive it. the oil pressure must be there and the rattle something else.

[Doctle Odd]

So sensor has to be duff? Rattle coming from a viscous fan maybe?

[zollaf]

does it have the 2k rpm sensor though. mine does, so if there isn't 2bar above 2k rpm it beeps. maybe the sensor is duff, maybe its telling the truth. maybe there is 1.5 bar and thats enough to run the engine but not enough to pressurise the tappets properly ? or there is plenty of pressure and a rattly other thing as yo say. it needs a pressure gauge fitting and taking for a test drive and going from there. thats what i would do.
i had a landy 200 tdi in. she drove it here with the oil light on. i connected the pressure gauge and nothing, not even a flicker. busted gauge ? remove sender and start engine, a trickle of oil came out. fit new oil pump, good as gold, not even a rattle ? she had driven a good few miles like it.

[fourringsrus]

Sounds like one of those buggers that you really need to see and hear.
Sensors,something chaffing after heat increases, random smoothness followed by harsh noise, oil lights,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,........mmmmmmmmmmmm

[ScottyDoo]

well here we go again. update on yesterdays/last nights events:

red oil warning light on the centre dash kept intermittently popping up, stopped the car and turned off and let it cool for 5 minutes and all was okay again last night (no sounding like a bag of REMOVED like last time) drove back home (6-7 miles) no lights.

driving into work this morning, (4-5 miles) and just as i was getting into shaftesbury (where i work) BOOM- oil light again! :zx11: no sounding ropey though and no engine management light or anything!

please has anyone got any ideas on this because its really starting to do my head in!

as for whovever mentioned the turbo, when i took it into Motatec i forgot to mention on here he did say that the turbo 'had been well used' and that it was leaking air and using oil... for the sake of mentioning it too the person who owned the car before the girl i bought it off was Polish... so by the powers of deduction it was abused by the Pole... she was driving up to college in london and back in it for 18 months so i cant assume it was her and she was certainly no boy racer!!

seriously at my wits end with this.

its also had an oil pressure switch fairly recently as I've got the receipt for it at home....

[ScottyDoo]

just thinking... could it be that the oil in the engine is just awful and all gunked up with sludge? if i drained the oil and flushed it through with a few bottles of cheap oil and then re-filled with 5w-30 could that cure it?

[mjhamilton]

does the turbo use the oil from the sump??... knackered turbo maybe??.. loose shaft that sometimes shifts and then the whole thing spins out of whack - would explain the noises

[Doctle Odd]

You need a competent mechanic to check the oil pressure. How does the car drive? It should be fairly peppy. In my experience Polish guys tend to look after their cars! It's a bit of a stretch to blame the person that had the car 18 months before you bought it. The average motorist covers 10k miles a year so in 15 k miles it would surely have died? I think you've been lucky but you need to find a VAG specialist. They're not near as expensive as a main dealer and they know what they're at and what to look for. If I send you a tenner will you pick this weeks lottery numbers for me? :fest30:

[ScottyDoo]

im hopefully going to see Jon off of the VCDS forum on friday to scan the car for codes and see whats what... the car drives okay? it pulls away good and the turbo pulls well... you can hear the turbo and it has turbo chatter when you let off the acceleration when your in the turbo range... well i think the girl who had it before me did 20k in a year? i think theres a VAG specialist just down the road from my work, im going to ring him when he's open and see if i can pop down at lunch.

well that tenner is going towards essential repairs and i did the euromillions last night and didnt win!! i wouldnt trust me!!! :biglaugh:

[ScottyDoo]

You need a competent mechanic to check the oil pressure. How does the car drive? It should be fairly peppy. In my experience Polish guys tend to look after their cars! It's a bit of a stretch to blame the person that had the car 18 months before you bought it. The average motorist covers 10k miles a year so in 15 k miles it would surely have died? I think you've been lucky but you need to find a VAG specialist. They're not near as expensive as a main dealer and they know what they're at and what to look for. If I send you a tenner will you pick this weeks lottery numbers for me? :fest30:

'Lucky' or unlucky?!

[Doctle Odd]

If the oil pressure light came on in my car I'd have got 50 yards before it died. Your turbo shouldn't chatter it should whistle. 20k miles is a lot in a year, did she have any service history even recent stuff?

[ScottyDoo]

If the oil pressure light came on in my car I'd have got 50 yards before it died. Your turbo shouldn't chatter it should whistle. 20k miles is a lot in a year, did she have any service history even recent stuff?

what do you mean by that? it could be sludgey oil? i dont know... and yet it whistles when you put your foot down and then it chatters slightly when you let it off... she 'said' it last had a service in january?

[Doctle Odd]

I mean that driving any car for even a very short distance with no oil pressure will kill the engine. The sludge sticks to the innards of the engine so you'd have to remove the sump etc to get rid of it. Take the plug off the N75 before youi drive the car home. It will be sluggish (limp mode) but the turbo won't be working

[ScottyDoo]

I mean that driving any car for even a very short distance with no oil pressure will kill the engine. The sludge sticks to the innards of the engine so you'd have to remove the sump etc to get rid of it. Take the plug off the N75 before youi drive the car home. It will be sluggish (limp mode) but the turbo won't be working

and taking the sump off is a big job im guessing? at the risk of sounding thick here... N75 plug? wheres that....

[Sam]

I may have missed it, so forgive me, but do we know if it's actually using/losing oil yet?

[mjhamilton]

I have asked the same question 2 times already

[zollaf]

i will stick my neck out and say no, its not using any oil (probably ).

[ScottyDoo]

i will stick my neck out and say no, its not using any oil (probably ).

sorry! no it isnt using any oil... it hasnt lost any since ive topped it up.

[Sam]

sorry! no it isnt using any oil... it hasnt lost any since ive topped it up.

Thanks :)


and taking the sump off is a big job im guessing? at the risk of sounding thick here... N75 plug? wheres that....

Fairly big job, can be done without dropping the subframe too.

Please Help Stuck with 1.8 T sump removal (http://www.vwaudiforum.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?71098-Stuck-with-1-8-T-sump-removal)

1.8T Sludge issues!! Can it be done without taking the engine out? Yes (http://www.audi-sport.net/vb/a4-s4-forum-b5-chassis/91679-1-8t-sludge-issues-can-done-without-taking-engine-out-yes.html)

[ScottyDoo]

Thanks :)



Fairly big job, can be done without dropping the subframe too.

Please Help Stuck with 1.8 T sump removal (http://www.vwaudiforum.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?71098-Stuck-with-1-8-T-sump-removal)

1.8T Sludge issues!! Can it be done without taking the engine out? Yes (http://www.audi-sport.net/vb/a4-s4-forum-b5-chassis/91679-1-8t-sludge-issues-can-done-without-taking-engine-out-yes.html)

well... I've got it booked into a VAG specialist for tomorrow to drop the sump and check the oil pump/strainer/pick up pipe.

they're going to cap the cost at £150 and if it costs more than that they're going to advise what i want to do next, they'll also be able to check if she was telling the truth with the new oil pump obviously and they're going to change the oil and filters... they're good, I've heard nothing but good reviews for them from many of my friends, as I'm not overly car-confident with fixing... makes sense really! Autotechnics in Gillingham Dorset... will update more tomorrow evening i expect... #
cheers for the input from all you guys, really does mean a lot! :D

[zollaf]

be interesting to see whats what and whether its had a new pump, but, if it hasn't, don't forget that she may have been taken for a ride as well.

[ScottyDoo]

be interesting to see whats what and whether its had a new pump, but, if it hasn't, don't forget that she may have been taken for a ride as well.

new pump and strainer are what... £50?

[Sam]

£150 should be a few (two?) hours of work, hopefully that's long enough to get an idea of what's going on in there.

Good luck, keep us posted.

[Doctle Odd]

Sorry mate I'm one of those people that thinks "if I know how to do something so should the whole world" Just leave the N75 as is until the specialist looks it over. I have always dropped the subframe on this job but I'm no Crasher :notworthy

[ScottyDoo]

Sorry mate I'm one of those people that thinks "if I know how to do something so should the whole world" Just leave the N75 as is until the specialist looks it over. I have always dropped the subframe on this job but I'm no Crasher :notworthy

no worries pal :) yeah im just going to cross all of my body parts that i can and hope for the best...
if not and anyone wants to buy an A4 that needs some engine work then let me know!!:( 22216222172221822219