How do you get up and go?

[Akash]

Always been curious on driving etiquette when you "get up and go" and whether I am just OTT or not.

So mine is:

1. Get in car, put in key and turn to second point (just before starting engine)
2. I wait till all the lights are off that do switch off (about 5 seconds or so)
3. Turn the engine over
4. Wait 1 minute (2 in the cold) before I press the pedal to "lift off"
5. Do not exceed 2000 rpms until temperature needle is at half-way point.
6. On parking up - allow engine run for 1-2 minutes before switching off
(and if I have time, microfibre + rapid detailer to get rid of the dust :- ) )

I have always done this with all my cars but more so this one - The only time I did not do this (read: Couldnt) was when I was working in Fleet. The motorway was about a 5minute drive from my house which meant I was getting the revs/speed up pretty quickly. Having said that, 70mph is still under 2k revs in 7th gear!

Now on the flip side, I know Audi mechanics/dealership just get in and start it/drive off. I always notice the engine churns more trying to start when they do this compared to waiting a few seconds before turning it over

[AlyM]

I'm the same actually... Always wait till lights are off, start, wait about 3mins or so (sometimes longer if cold) to warm turbo, drive sensibly. Problem I have is the motorway is less than a minute away! Lol
On return I let engine tick over for about 3 mins again to let turbo cool down! :banghead:

Sent from my GT-I9300

[AlyM]

Forget to mention my ocd kicks in when I get home also and normally remove my car matt's and Mrs one also and give it a good shake till all the crap comes off!

Think I've said too much... Ill get the door! :eek: :o

Sent from my GT-I9300

[Akash]

Ah good point! Forgot that I too let it stand for a minute or so. edited post :- )

[MarkTM]

About the same, also just flick the key after the engine lights are out as have seen many turn and hold, think like the quick indicator depression for three flashes.

I rarely wait for a few minutes though before pulling away...bad me! :Blush2:

[Brycie]

My wife would probably divorce me if I insisted on such a lengthy (and yes, OCDish) starting & turn-off process. Something tells me if she had to sig in the car for a minute or two every time we'd driven somewhere, I'd get mocked and/or evil looks.

I try to remember to wait for the glow plug light to go out (especially in cold weather) but often forget. And I try not to rev the nuts off it (over 2.5k revs) til it's at at least 40-50 degrees.

And I also just flick the key, for some reason, I find it really pleasing that that's all I have to do.

[neilos100]

Me? Get in the car, turn engine on, drive.
Simples!

Sent from my phone...

[joshA6]

whether I am just OTT or not.



LOL! you answered your own question! In 20 years if driving i can't even remember of having a "sequence". I turn the key for as long as necessary, start the car and just drive

[Guest 2]

Just flick the key on, put my seatbelt on while its starting and go.

Drive normally, if I need 3000 revs while the engine is cold I'll use them, thats what the engine is there for - the oil (albeit cold) is still doing its job.

Same with the A3.

[JimC64]

Ignition ON and wait for the glowplugs light to go out, select reverse, handbrake off and out the driveway I go.

To be fair I do usually treat her gently for the first little while rarely going over 2500 revs until she's warmed up.....other than that I just drive it and enjoy it.

[techfreak]

Seems like a lot of people forgot their seat belts, to adjust mirrors (if necessary) and look around you for potential hazards before driving off. :-)

[royclark]

Ignition ON and wait for the glowplugs light to go out, select reverse, handbrake off and out the driveway I go.

To be fair I do usually treat her gently for the first little while rarely going over 2500 revs until she's warmed up.....other than that I just drive it and enjoy it.



I can't say that I've ever noticed a glowplug light.
I open garage door, get in car, flick the key (always takes a few seconds befor it turns over).
Leave it running in the garage while I open the rear garden gates.
Back to the car and drive to the front drive, close the garden gates, back into the car, Crash helmet & seat belts on, look around me for potential hazards, then back over the dog & kids bike & drive away. :drive:

[Guest 2]

My glowplug light displays for a split second - I just let the car decide when it want's to fire.

[UVB]

I generally wait til the glowplug light goes out then flick the key (a bad habit as it catches me out when I try the same in the A3...) I then drive off but keep on a light throttle until up to temp (probably something less than a third). In previous manuals I have also been careful to avoid low revs in gear as well but the A6 auto sorts this out anyway (but not always the case with the A3 dsg box).

I'm not a fan of idling from cold as you get a warm engine but cold gearbox. I have had one car where I was specifically warned against cold idling for that reason.

[JimC64]

I can't say that I've ever noticed a glowplug light.
I open garage door, get in car, flick the key (always takes a few seconds befor it turns over).
Leave it running in the garage while I open the rear garden gates.
Back to the car and drive to the front drive, close the garden gates, back into the car, seat belts, adjust mirrors (if necessary) and look around me for potential hazards :o & drive away.

As per UVB not a huge fan of cold idling myself, except when necessary.
Seat belts are a gimme, mirrors never need adjusting as its only me who drives the car, reversing out the driveway checking for hazards is again a gimme

[gupsterg]

i) check & adjust mirrors/seat (as car shared by me & wife :aargh4:) ...

ii) wait for GP light to switch off then flick and let go key ...

iii) give perhaps 10-20 sec before setting off ...

iv) just take it easy on revs until car warm but I don't rag my car any how :Blush:...

+1 with other posters on that I'm not fan of idling car on drive either ;) ...

Every fuel tank fill up tyres visually checked & pressures done plus washer fluid top up, tank full for me varies in length of lasting time due to not doing a daily commute in car...

Only before a 100 mile + journey I check under hood before driving off and that's not just with this car with all vehicles I drive/have/had...

[MarkTM]

Seems like a lot of people forgot their seat belts, to adjust mirrors (if necessary) and look around you for potential hazards before driving off. :-)

Never not worn a seatbelt
I think we were talking cold-starts here and 99.9% of mine are off my End of Cul-de-Sac house so I see any hazards before I even get in the car (not to worried about neighbours feral cat since the little bleeder insists on sitting on my bonnet...usually just after I've washed/polished :aargh4:


Only driver so mirrors are always where I left em :biglaugh:

[techfreak]

Never not worn a seatbelt
I think we were talking cold-starts here and 99.9% of mine are off my End of Cul-de-Sac house so I see any hazards before I even get in the car (not to worried about neighbours feral cat since the little bleeder insists on sitting on my bonnet...usually just after I've washed/polished :aargh4:


Only driver so mirrors are always where I left em :biglaugh:

I was going for sarcasm, but I don't know how to do smilies on tapatalk so it's harder to get across. :biglaugh:

[MarkTM]

^^^^Tech you don't need to your profile pic does just fine! :p

[ukgroucho]

Very similar for me - although it would be bizarre if that were not the case as we're all driving away in our cars ;)

I'll avoid all of the 'off piste' stuff that happens when loading luggage or unloading snow / scraping ice

Get in, close door , insert key and turn to activate dash lights.
Wait until glowplug light goes off and nudge key clockwise and let go - engine will sort out firing up.
Put on seatbelt and scan dash lights to make sure everything started properly (DIS etc.) and no bad news (although you'd struggle to miss the audible alarms on an A6)
I can let my car "roll" forwards out of my drive once it is in gear so i do that and then keep it gentle for the first few miles.
I also try to stick to the under 2k RPM rule until the car is warmed up a bit - although more difficult with an auto
Not so bothered about idling when I arrive home as I always approach home at a reasonable pace and also once I pull into my drive I manouver around and reverse into my preferred spot so I figure the turbo should be OK

[coolraj003]

if the missus has been driving then the routine goes...bang leg on the bottom of the dash and head on the car roof getting in as she would have left the seat forward and highest position. so tilt head sideways while pumping the seat height down(no power seats) all the while cursing her. then adjust the seat for my leg length.

Normally i get in the car, wait for the lights to go off on dash before starting the engine, wait for a couple of minutes(btw missus hates waiting like that so i normally try to get in the car while she s in the house). dont the women know the meaning of patience. after that i usually use gentle acceleration till it warms up a bit. never really waited after the journey as drive from motorway to home is residential for couple of miles which i think would be enough to cool the turbo a fair bit.

Raj

[gupsterg]

if the missus has been driving then the routine goes...bang leg on the bottom of the dash and head on the car roof getting in as she would have left the seat forward and highest position.

I go through the same thing as well :eek:...

Me & wifey are the same height/build bar a few characteristics which differentiate us :D but she still insists on having her seat in different position as she says she may hit something if visibility is not spot on so I'd rather live with having to adjust seat/mirrors then the car ending up in a bodyshop :Blush2:...

[KevTHC]

I do something that hasn't yet been mentioned. I've always driven manuals and do this without thinking about it, but always press the clutch to the floor and keep it there before starting the engine. I don't know if this is common practice, but I know my wife doesn't do the same - she just checks it's in neutral but leaves the clutch pedal up.

[ukgroucho]

I do something that hasn't yet been mentioned. I've always driven manuals and do this without thinking about it, but always press the clutch to the floor and keep it there before starting the engine. I don't know if this is common practice, but I know my wife doesn't do the same - she just checks it's in neutral but leaves the clutch pedal up.

Later Audi's with manual gearboxes seem to insist on having the clutch pressed before they will start anyway - my wifes A1 does anyway... I always used to do this also but I think that stems from riding motorcycles for years.

[Brycie]

I do something that hasn't yet been mentioned. I've always driven manuals and do this without thinking about it, but always press the clutch to the floor and keep it there before starting the engine. I don't know if this is common practice, but I know my wife doesn't do the same - she just checks it's in neutral but leaves the clutch pedal up.

Yep,:I do that too. Clutch in, wiggle gearstick & keep clutch in while I start car. Sometimes I put it in reverse before starting ignition.

[Phutters]

...wiggle gearstick...Very important.

If the gearlever is going to come off in my hand, I'd far rather it did it while I was at home and stationary than at 200mph down some country lane.

And this business of letting the car idle for a while in the drive before turning it off so that the turbo can cool down. I could understand it if most of us lived in a house with a drive which opened directly onto the outside lane of a motorway, but most of us don't.

Or at least I don't think we do.

And neither do most of us drive the last few miles home from the motorway with the engine bouncing off the rev limiter and the turbo howling.

I suppose there might be some merit in idling for a minute or two having made a last-second tyre-squealing decision to peel off the M6 for an emergency slash in the services, but the distraction of a bladder on the point of explosion alters one's priorities somewhat.

And as a C5 rather than a C6 person I apologise most humbly for this being in the wrong section.

[Brycie]

I've never even considered turbo cooling before. Starting to understand a little more about it & it's whys & wherefores now though it sounds ott for 99% of journeys.

[Guest 2]

After a sported drive I always let the engine idle for a few minutes to let the oil cool.

A handy feature on my A3 is the oil temperature guage in the DIS. All facelift A6's can have oil temp enabled via vcds.

Normal oil temp for the A3 is 85-87 but this can rise to 92-95 depending on weather and how adventurous I am with the gears/throttle.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[Phutters]

After a sported drive I always let the engine idle for a few minutes to let the oil cool. Why?

[Sam]

My theory is that most mass produced cars are designed to be driven by mouthbreathing dribblers - the plethora of driver aids (auto park - learn to park it really isn't complicated, auto headlights - if you can't tell it's dark outside you're an idiot and you shouldn't be driving, auto wipers - seriously?!) reinforces this theory. If a turbo engined car was meant to be cooled for a set period of time before being shut down, surely the car would come with a preinstalled turbo timer or there'd be a mention of this in the manual (I'm assuming there isn't of course).

A few years after the Passat 1.8T came out in the States there were hoards of drivers with failing turbos and blocked oil pickups. Everyone went wild about letting the turbo cool down to stop the build up of 'turbo turds' when in reality the issue was VWoA recommending the wrong oil.

As Master Phutters says above, unless you're hurtling down your road towards your house and pulling a Smokey and the Bandit turn onto your drive, those last few moments as you near home should be more than sufficient.

[Phutters]

...turbo turds...Thanks for the clarification Sam.

Until now I'd been labouring under the misapprehension that a turbo turd was a particularly unpleasant type of person rather than a manifestation of bad driving practice and incorrect lubricant.

[Rosscow]

Start engine, drive off. Max 2000rpm until up to temperature.

Blip of throttle and shut down.

[royclark]

Four Weetabix and off.

[Tim B]

I could recite the full IAM car and cockpit check if you want, but in reality. Keys in lights off, start, belt on, check for traffic, and off.

[Eshrules]

I could recite the full IAM car and cockpit check if you want

Out of pure curiosity, I'd like to see that?

Sent from my Nexus 7 using Tapatalk 2

[Tim B]

This drill should be implemented each time you enter the vehicle but before you start the engine.
Note that you should schedule a physical P O W D E R Y check and carry it out regularly.
1. First check that the handbrake is on. Keep pressure on the footbrake for a few seconds. If you feel it sinking to the floor pan there is a hydraulic fluid leak. Do not drive the vehicle.
2. Whilst maintaining footbrake pressure check that the brake pad wear indicator warning lamp goes out when you release the handbrake. If it stays on consider fitting new pads. Re-apply the handbrake.
3. Do a mental P O W D E R Y check. (Petrol - Oil - Water - Damage - Electrics - Rubber - Yourself).
4. Tell passengers how to open doors and windows to get out in an emergency.
5. Put on seatbelts (include your passengers) and test that the seatbelt inertia systems are working by pulling them sharply away from the side pillar. Important: When putting on a seat belt the lower loop should be well down over the thighs and NOT over the stomach.
6. Confirm that your seating and steering wheel position are such that;
i. When your arms are outstretched over the steering wheel it bisects an area between your wrist and palm.
ii. Your legs can push the clutch pedal to the floor and still leave some bend at the knee.
iii. The top of the head restraint is at least level with your eyes and if possible level with top of the head.
7. Check mirrors:
i. Adjust rear view mirror for maximum rear window view.
ii. Adjust side mirrors to include only 5% to 10% of the car.
8. Looking in the side mirrors check that all doors are closed.
9. Check that you know where all the ancillaries are, that they work and are all in the off position.
10. Check that the gearbox is in neutral by selecting 3rd and then 4th and then return to the neutral position. This principle will guard against false neutrals which ageing gearboxes often present when ‘wobbling’ the gear lever sideways.
11. Don’t start the engine yet - but turn the ignition key to the first position and;
i. Check that all the warning lamps you expected to come on are working. A number of systems will self-check and their lamps will go out.
ii. Check that there is sufficient fuel for the journey.
12. Pump the footbrake pedal a few times until it becomes firm (this negates the vacuum in the brake servo unit) and maintain the footbrake pressure (see 13 i) whilst you;
13. Depress the clutch pedal (this disengages the gear train and clutch weight from the starter motor and avoids excess drain on the battery - see vehicle handbook.) thenwith one hand on the steering wheel start the engine. Now:
i. Check that the footbrake pedal drops towards the floor - indicating that the brake vacuum servo system is functioning correctly.
ii. Check that all normal warning lamps go out. Note that primary lamps are red; secondary lamps are amber; information lamps are green/blue. (P.S.I.)
14. Release the clutch pedal if you are intending to wait - or select the gear and (after effective all round observations) move off.

[royclark]

This drill should be implemented each time you enter the vehicle but before you start the engine.
Note that you should schedule a physical P O W D E R Y check and carry it out regularly.
1. First check that the handbrake is on. Keep pressure on the footbrake for a few seconds. If you feel it sinking to the floor pan there is a hydraulic fluid leak. Do not drive the vehicle.
2. Whilst maintaining footbrake pressure check that the brake pad wear indicator warning lamp goes out when you release the handbrake. If it stays on consider fitting new pads. Re-apply the handbrake.
3. Do a mental P O W D E R Y check. (Petrol - Oil - Water - Damage - Electrics - Rubber - Yourself).
4. Tell passengers how to open doors and windows to get out in an emergency.
5. Put on seatbelts (include your passengers) and test that the seatbelt inertia systems are working by pulling them sharply away from the side pillar. Important: When putting on a seat belt the lower loop should be well down over the thighs and NOT over the stomach.
6. Confirm that your seating and steering wheel position are such that;
i. When your arms are outstretched over the steering wheel it bisects an area between your wrist and palm.
ii. Your legs can push the clutch pedal to the floor and still leave some bend at the knee.
iii. The top of the head restraint is at least level with your eyes and if possible level with top of the head.
7. Check mirrors:
i. Adjust rear view mirror for maximum rear window view.
ii. Adjust side mirrors to include only 5% to 10% of the car.
8. Looking in the side mirrors check that all doors are closed.
9. Check that you know where all the ancillaries are, that they work and are all in the off position.
10. Check that the gearbox is in neutral by selecting 3rd and then 4th and then return to the neutral position. This principle will guard against false neutrals which ageing gearboxes often present when ‘wobbling’ the gear lever sideways.
11. Don’t start the engine yet - but turn the ignition key to the first position and;
i. Check that all the warning lamps you expected to come on are working. A number of systems will self-check and their lamps will go out.
ii. Check that there is sufficient fuel for the journey.
12. Pump the footbrake pedal a few times until it becomes firm (this negates the vacuum in the brake servo unit) and maintain the footbrake pressure (see 13 i) whilst you;
13. Depress the clutch pedal (this disengages the gear train and clutch weight from the starter motor and avoids excess drain on the battery - see vehicle handbook.) thenwith one hand on the steering wheel start the engine. Now:
i. Check that the footbrake pedal drops towards the floor - indicating that the brake vacuum servo system is functioning correctly.
ii. Check that all normal warning lamps go out. Note that primary lamps are red; secondary lamps are amber; information lamps are green/blue. (P.S.I.)
14. Release the clutch pedal if you are intending to wait - or select the gear and (after effective all round observations) move off.

I'll bet that your always late for work. :smashfrea

[Guest 2]

Before any pedantic swines say anything, this was my passenger taking the photo :)

After a spirited drive, oil temp rose to 92 degrees, wouldn't like to be turning the car off when its this hot!

Drove off boost (changing up at 1500rpm :() and in 5th and it settled back to 85 degrees.

http://i816.photobucket.com/albums/zz90/57_audi/A3/fdc935e51ee9e3552f5c5c0aa4253ae2_zpsa98a5aee.jpg

[neilos100]

Isn't that the normal engine operating temp Chris? That's where the needle hovers anyway on the guage...don't have the vcds to get same display as you....
And why are your numbers white? On the odometer mine are red.....is it just a le man's thing?

Sent from my phone...

[Guest 2]

That's the oil temperature guage in the DIS on my A3 Neil.

Normal water temp is beside the fuel as normal.

[neilos100]

Ah....sorry thought it was in yer A6....:o

Sent from my phone...

[Sam]

Nothing's going to happen at all, people drive those cars much harder and care a lot less than you. Stop worrying about something that won't ever happen and enjoy the car!