Replacing Battery

[2fquick]

Hi, after an unexpected trip to hospital, the A6 stood for 4 weeks and will not crank over.

As it is 8 years old I have ordered a new battery Varta Silver / Varta Batteries / Batteries by Application (http://www.batterymegastore.co.uk/product/H3/)

I have VCDS to recode the type & serial

Should I just disconnect the old battery and fit the new one or connect another power source to the cables to avoid and data loss?

Any advice ?

thanks

[royclark]

Hi, after an unexpected trip to hospital, the A6 stood for 4 weeks and will not crank over.

As it is 8 years old I have ordered a new battery Varta Silver / Varta Batteries / Batteries by Application (http://www.batterymegastore.co.uk/product/H3/)

I have VCDS to recode the type & serial

Should I just disconnect the old battery and fit the new one or connect another power source to the cables to avoid and data loss?

Any advice ?

thanks


Conect a battery to the terminals under the bonet, then follow the 7th screen on this site. - Ross-Tech: VCDS Tour: Recode (http://www.ross-tech.com/vcds/tour/recode_screen.html)

[gupsterg]

Hi,

If you are replacing a 110ah battery with 110ah battery no need for recode of battery regulation module regardless of brand...

I had genuine Audi Varta 110ah changed to Bosch S5 110ah...

As battery regulation module have no Bosch part no, I just changed serial to date for fitting new one for my own reference...

I replaced my battery i) without any battery/charger underhood ii) only data loss was IIRC clock lost time & perhaps trip counter went to 0miles

ESP warning light will come on but a little drive and turns of steering left/right will solve this...

Possible related thread Link:- Whats the state of charge of your battery? (http://www.vwaudiforum.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?141284-Whats-the-state-of-charge-of-your-battery)

Link:- Audi A6 (4F) Battery Replacement - Ross-Tech Wiki (http://wiki.ross-tech.com/wiki/index.php?title=Audi_A6_%284F%29_Battery_Replaceme nt&redirect=no)

ATB
G

[ruggedscot]

Just a note - Dont try to change your battery using a battery charger on the terminals under the bonnet to keep voltage on your car electrics - Bad move !
As soon as you disconnect the battery the charger output will bounce about and it is this bounce that could affect damage your electrics. I have done battery replacements before using another battery connected across the jump terminals - remember use a fuse on the + lead of your additional battery just for peace of mind.
When diconnecting the lead in the boot have something ready to cover and isolate the + lead as this will be live all the time from the other battery.
Its a quick way and it saves an issues with radios and other equipment in the car being affected by the power loss during the change.

[royclark]

Just a note - Dont try to change your battery using a battery charger on the terminals under the bonnet to keep voltage on your car electrics - Bad move !
As soon as you disconnect the battery the charger output will bounce about and it is this bounce that could affect damage your electrics. I have done battery replacements before using another battery connected across the jump terminals - remember use a fuse on the + lead of your additional battery just for peace of mind.
When diconnecting the lead in the boot have something ready to cover and isolate the + lead as this will be live all the time from the other battery.
Its a quick way and it saves an issues with radios and other equipment in the car being affected by the power loss during the change.

Do you connect the other battery with jump leads to the terminals under the bonet?
What size fuse do you use on the + terminal?

[ruggedscot]

I made up a lead for this - as you are not actually starting the car or running any high power equipment - only wanting to maintain a float voltage on the system electrics Ive used an old extension lead and on the + of both ends Ive added an inline fuse holder and put in a 5 amp fuse. The reason for fusing at both ends is to ensure that any damage to the lead cuts the power - you have two potential power sources so best to provide a safety at each side. If you had a fuse at only one end and you shorted the lead at the fused end then you could have the whole length of lead burning up before you knew it. I also made the lead using 2.5mm....

[joshA6]

Hi,

If you are replacing a 110ah battery with 110ah battery no need for recode of battery regulation module regardless of brand...

I had genuine Audi Varta 110ah changed to Bosch S5 110ah...

As battery regulation module have no Bosch part no, I just changed serial to date for fitting new one for my own reference...

I replaced my battery i) without any battery/charger underhood ii) only data loss was IIRC clock lost time & perhaps trip counter went to 0miles

ESP warning light will come on but a little drive and turns of steering left/right will solve this...

Possible related thread Link:- Whats the state of charge of your battery? (http://www.vwaudiforum.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?141284-Whats-the-state-of-charge-of-your-battery)

Link:- Audi A6 (4F) Battery Replacement - Ross-Tech Wiki (http://wiki.ross-tech.com/wiki/index.php?title=Audi_A6_%284F%29_Battery_Replaceme nt&redirect=no)

ATB
G


X2 above. I have disconnected the battery loads of times (when retrofitting my S3 sterring wheel & airbag) and never had any problems with memory or other functions. I htnk even the date stays set if you only disconnect for a couple of minutes.

[msh]

I also have replaced battery with no loss of settings without using a separate battery as a back-up. You don't even lose radio settings.

[ruggedscot]

You may get away with it but when it does bit yer bum youll wish you had done something to stop it..... been doing car electrics for a while and find this little trick helped - used to hate fords with their key code radios and other cars were the same.... dont know how many Ive adverted but id guess enuf to make it worth while.

[gupsterg]

Just for the thread and in context of the A6 4F ... I left my battery out for days on the A6... if my memory serves me correctly other then the clock/ESP light/trip going to 0 miles I did not have to recode anything... everything worked as it should... did not do anything with VCDS ...

[2fquick]

Went to replace the battery and its different to the one that was fitted:confused:.
Several web sites list the battery for an A6 Quattro 3.0 TDI as
Varta H3 100Ah length 353mm - this is not what is fitted to my car
should be
Varta I1 110Ah length 393mm - this matches the fitted battery

[royclark]

Went to replace the battery and its different to the one that was fitted:confused:.
Several web sites list the battery for an A6 Quattro 3.0 TDI as
Varta H3 100Ah length 353mm - this is not what is fitted to my car
should be
Varta I1 110Ah length 393mm - this matches the fitted battery

My factory fitted 110ah battery is not a Varta battery its a Moll battery.
When you program your new battery just select the make of battery from the drop down list.


Ross-Tech: VCDS Tour: Recode (http://www.ross-tech.com/vcds/tour/recode_screen.html)

http://www.vwaudiforum.co.uk/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=20276&d=1366482571

[gupsterg]

The make of battery is not going make a difference to how the module set parameters for the amp, etc for battery...

The module uses the P/N set for the battery to make the parameters up for what Ah of battery is installed...

There is a thread on another forum which happened recently... the poster placed a 100Ah battery in an A6 4F...

His only options were to either use P/N for a genuine Audi 95Ah or set as 110Ah...

The software in battery regulation is designed only for genuine batteries and their specifications...

From Ross Tech...


The following procedure does assume you are using a battery supplied by VW/Audi, all necessary details for the following steps can found on the battery itself. Make sure to refer to the factory repair manual in order to fulfill all additional prerequisites.

Changing the serial number makes BM think new battery... P/N sets parameters... the manufacturer parameter just seem like a dud menu from when I meddled with it...

[Q7quattro]

I have had my battery replaced , (not buy audi main dealer - done by local VW / audi specialist)

the new battery is by BOSCH(with 4 year guarantee ) , 1 hours labour at garage ,

cost was £180.00 inc Vat

(would of done it myself but havnt got VCDS yet, no one near me who does )

this is the 1st time the battery has been replaced , car is on a 56 plate.


Has any one else had there battery changed ?, if so what price if u don't mine me asking ;-)

will be interesting to compare prices.

[Guest 2]

As a rough idea, ECP are selling a Bosch S4 80ah 4 yr guarantee for £83.27 or a Bosch S5 110 with a 5yr guarantee for £107.29 so say you got the S4 one, you paid £100 for labour and coding, which seems OK. Or you could've fitted it yourself, got someone off the VCDS map to code it and cost you £20.

Some other threads -

How to: Battery Replacement (Strange issue straight after though!) (http://www.vwaudiforum.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?153687-How-to-Battery-Replacement-(Strange-issue-straight-after-though!)&highlight=battery)

Replacement battery maybe? (http://www.vwaudiforum.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?152164-Replacement-battery-maybe&highlight=battery)

[Darius R]

Hi all, so I had to replace my battery too. Original battery was VARTA OEM 110 Ah 850 A (EN) so I replaced it with the VARTA battery 110 Ah 920 A (EN). Now it's time for coding... And here is the problem. The new VARTA battery doesn't have the sticker with the part number and serial number. What should I do? Should I just leave the old coding?

[MarkTM]

I replaced with one of these:

VARTA I1 Silver Dynamic Car Battery (020) - Cheap Car Batteries (http://www.puredrivebatteries.co.uk/i1-varta-silver-dynamic-12v-110ah-car-battery.html?gclid=CN7_kbSm18ECFWrjwgodqygASw)

Changed my coding to the same one that Gupster used on his Bosch battery.

No problems and hope it helps.

[Darius R]

That's the same battery I've got today. Wow that's a long code.
According to Ross Tech:


Enter the new Battery Part Number (10 or 11 digits).
Enter the new Battery Serial Number (10 digits).


Where do I enter your long code?

[MarkTM]

Sorry that's the long coding, will try to locate the battery coding on mine...won't be until tomorrow due to kids and Halloween though.

[Darius R]

No worries I already found out how to enter long coding there. Any reference for the code you gave me? Do you know what's the battery specs of this code?

[gupsterg]

Hi,

Don't use the code that MarkTM is using, he got my coding to do comparison with his whilst he was having voltage regulator fault on his alternator.

I or he doesn't know how that long coding effect the battery module, part of it is made up from the way you code in battery like in the screenshots posted in post 12 of this thread by royclark, the other part of it could be made of specific software options in module or parts fitted to car.

How I see it is that he is using coding from my 2005 module in a 2007 module which IIRC from VCDS log hardware and software part no differed plus we have some different car options.

I've been meaning to post in his thread/PM him but been a bit busy/forgetting :o, I did look at his past threads now but couldn't see post RE coding perhaps it was only in private message me and him went over it.

The battery module can not differentiate between brands and rating of battery via say communication, as battery only have + / - to it. It just uses coding and then via monitoring throw out info, etc. The module only has limited parameters for genuine Audi batteries coded in, which you can select. You will not find coding for differing batteries which are out there as Audi have not added these to software in battery module.

As you've posted you had a 110Ah and swapped for 110Ah just change serial in the coding screen as per post 12, do not change p/n IMO. For battery module to think it has new battery of same spec just change serial by 1 number or just make up one of 10 digits.

The CCA (cold cranking amp) rating between your old and new battery really don't matter to battery module IMO, your old was 850a new is 920a.


Cold cranking amps (CCA) is a measurement of the number of amps a battery can deliver at 0 ° F for 30 seconds and not drop below 7.2 volts. So a high CCA battery rating is especially important in starting battery applications, and in cold weather. This measurement is not particularly important in Deep cycle batteries, though it is the most commonly 'known' battery measurement.

IMO as battery tech has improved between manufacturing of your original battery and new one that's why I think there's a slight increase in CCA.

I replaced by genuine Audi Varta 110Ah 850a to a Bosch S5 110Ah 920a and used the Audi p/n for a 110Ah plus brand is still set to Varta and just used my own created serial and has been fine for over a year.

[MarkTM]

Thanks for confirming Gup, was searching for the instructions but must have been a PM as have all of your emails.

I've swapped batteries from new to old (no fault with my old) and no issues to report.

Regards

Mark

[bops6]

Ok my battery is dead. As i have no vagcom what will happen if i swap to a new bosch s4 110ah which is dame ah as original .

2007 3.0tdi le mans
hybrid turbo, decat,miltek, 20's etc
330-350 bhp
450-500lbst

[MarkTM]

As i have no vagcom

Shame on you with the most modded C6 on the forum! :mad:

Now't will happen if the same specs.

[bops6]

I know, I'll go hang my head in shame in the corner 😭
I know i should but normally i don't have time to do work on the car myself so end up paying someone to do it. All my time is going into finishing building our house.
Just this time been caught out on timescale as found it dead this afternoon and got to use it tomorrow, got battery from ecp and will fit first thing tomorrow.


2007 3.0tdi le mans
hybrid turbo, decat,miltek, 20's etc
330-350 bhp
450-500lbst

[MarkTM]

Have you tested your old battery, does it definitely have a dead cell?

Since you've already bought a replacement charge up the old one and keep as spare (if you have a garage)

[mjhamilton]

Must have been that cold snap the other day

Went to my car yesterday morning to find the alarm light not flashing and the central locking to be lazy

Turned ignition to get lots of beeps and half displays and the blower and stereo stay on for 30 seconds and shutdown

Cranks for a second fires up and shuts down - no VCDS

As I have only driven 100 miles or less in the last month I guess the battery has had enough - the light on the charger wouldn't even go green after 10 hours on the go :(

I hear these are an **** to replace on this chassis

[MarkTM]

I hear these are an **** to replace on this chassis

From who? Have you read this thread, particularly post 3?

For some obscure reason perfectly otherwise rational people think their car battery will last forever and leaving it for long periods will have no affect? :) How old is yours?

Depends on the charger, a CTEK charger can take 3-4 days to fully charge a dead battery, since you've two cars would suggest you leave it on a little longer. If charging from contacts under the bonnet (and not out of the car) it will take longer. If the regulator on your alternator has gone charge may be being lost that way.

[Guest 2]

^^ he drives a S4, not C6 and they are indeed hard to change on the 8E!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[mjhamilton]

Sorry i thread jacked - I was referring to the S4 b6 being s pain to change due to the location and weight of the battery

Maybe I will give it another go today at charging with the terminals off the pins

[MarkTM]

^^ he drives a S4, not C6 and they are indeed hard to change on the 8E!
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Aaah I thought he had 2 cars...doh!

Last month when my alternator failed and boot & rear doors wouldn't open I had to heft a type 21 (?) battery from the front seat to the rear to enable jump starting. :(

Let this be a lesson to anyone leaving their car undriven for anything longer than a week...esp with colder weather approaching to put a trickle charger on their cars NOW!

Methinks we'll see a spate of battery issues posted in the coming months.

[bops6]

Oh nuts!
Should have checked but ecp given me the smaller 80 ah battery and i need 110ah
Looks like I'll be phoning them tomorrow to upgrade.
Grrrrrrr


2007 3.0tdi le mans
hybrid turbo, decat,miltek, 20's etc
330-350 bhp
450-500lbst

[MarkTM]

Doh! Ain't user error a complete pain? :(

[Lee82]

Have you tested your old battery, does it definitely have a dead cell?

Since you've already bought a replacement charge up the old one and keep as spare (if you have a garage)

Hi mark
how to use vcds to test battery's health ?

[lifemoveon]

Hey guys... I'm also about to change my battery soon on my Audi A6 3.0TDI and I don't have a VAGCOM.

I'm really thinking of hecking it and just getting a battery from ECP and DIY - making sure the battery is a like for like replacement.

From what I've read, this should be ok. Would anyone here confirm? Also, would removing the jumper leads be difficult? Anything to look out for?

Cheers.

[Guest 2]

Same figures on the replacement battery will be fine, no coding needed.

Just a 10mm spanner is needed to loosen the terminals. Remove negative first, then positive then positive first and negative second when refitting.

I was always told to turn the sidelights on before re-connecting as if there is a surge the sidelights will take the excessive current and stop anything else expensive being fried.

You will also get a esp and steering light fault on the dash but this will clear after a short drive.

[MarkTM]

Hi mark
how to use vcds to test battery's health ?

Output test will show voltage out from the alternator, this should typically be 14.4v, it will also report voltage to components which should be no more than 12.5v (IIRC).

In truth easier with a voltmeter :)

[lifemoveon]

Hey Chris, Thanks so much for your guidance. I'm trying to buy a batter off Eurocar parts (ECP)

I looked at my existing battery and it says '12v 110AH 520A DIN'. However when I went to ECP, I saw a Lion battery that is 110 but 78AH. I'm not sure if this should be the right battery to purchase.

Additionally, I noticed an additional cable running from the battery. I read that this is an overflow cable and you can just pull it from the battery to disconnect - is that right?

Cheers.

[gupsterg]

Hey Chris, Thanks so much for your guidance. I'm trying to buy a batter off Eurocar parts (ECP)

I looked at my existing battery and it says '12v 110AH 520A DIN'. However when I went to ECP, I saw a Lion battery that is 110 but 78AH. I'm not sure if this should be the right battery to purchase.

Its the wrong battery, the 110 is battery code of Lion battery and as you know not 110Ah but 78Ah. I fitted a Bosch S5 020 which is 110Ah, currently £140 on ECP site but £114 from ECP eBay outlet. Some members have fitted Varta branded ones as the genuine VAG branded one is made by them.


Additionally, I noticed an additional cable running from the battery. I read that this is an overflow cable and you can just pull it from the battery to disconnect - is that right?

I think your referring to the venting hose? if so you'd need to reconnect it to the new battery, otherwise the gas from charging process will vent into the car.

[bops6]

Oh nuts!
Should have checked but ecp given me the smaller 80 ah battery and i need 110ah
Looks like I'll be phoning them tomorrow to upgrade.
Grrrrrrr


2007 3.0tdi le mans
hybrid turbo, decat,miltek, 20's etc
330-350 bhp
450-500lbst
Forgot about updating this.
Got a replacement battery from ecp, this time the right size lol
Took a whole 10 minutes to fit and all is working fine without any vagcom coding.
Result [emoji106]

2007 3.0tdi le mans
hybrid turbo, decat,miltek, 20's etc
330-350 bhp
450-500lbst