brake caliper changing?

[marsh369]

So one of my front calipers has seized and i'm going to change it with a second hand one.

I'm just wondering when I disconnect the brake pipe to put the new one on how do i stop all of the brake fluid from emptying? normally i would just empty it and refill with new brake fluid, but i read on here that bleeding the abs requires vagcom and that seems like to much hassle.

Can you clamp the rubber hose then with a new rubber hose on the new caliper just quickly change the rubber hose???

Any help would be greatly appreciated.

[PaulF2.5TDi]

Clamp the rubber hose, undo hose from caliper, put caliper onto hose, fit caliper, pads, etc, BLEED CALIPER by the usual method (No need for VCDS)

NOTE: If the usual method is with EeziBleed or similar, anything more than about 10 PSI blows the reservoir!

[marsh369]

But if you clamp the hose does that not damage the hose?

[marsh369]

But does clamping the hose not damage it?

[mikeybutch]

Not unless its perished

[vwcabriolet1971]

Clamping hoses WILL damage the hose. The hose was never designed to be crushed to stop the hydraulic fluid flow and will be permanently damaged by crushing. Evidence of hose crushing could lead to an MOT failure. Changing a caliper needs a full pressure bleed immediately after.

[spartacus 68]

Draper make an inexpensive brake clamp tool with rounded edges. Use this to stop the majority of brake fluid loss! It won't damage the flexible brake pipe for the 10 minutes or so you're clamping it for to change the caliper. I also use a piece of cling film over the brake fluid reservoir to stem the flow. Complete brake bleed and maintain reservoir level as you go.

[vwcabriolet1971]

Draper make an inexpensive brake clamp tool with rounded edges. Use this to stop the majority of brake fluid loss! It won't damage the flexible brake pipe for the 10 minutes or so you're clamping it for to change the caliper. I also use a piece of cling film over the brake fluid reservoir to stem the flow. Complete brake bleed and maintain reservoir level as you go.
Just because Draper make a "crush" tool doesn't make it O.K. to use it. I've seen so called plastic brake hose clamps that have a fairly sharp angle on the end with a small radius that would do serious damage if used on brake hoses, because it's sold it doesn't mean it's safe to use. Just ask your MOT station or dealer if it's O.K. to use it . They will say no ! Any garage that used draper's tool would be liable for damage to the hose and the hose replacement. The damage will be visible long after the brake job is finished. Regardless of the use of the "crush" tool the brake system should still be pressure bled. Hoses are not designed to be crushed !

[PaulF2.5TDi]

Just because Draper make a "crush" tool doesn't make it O.K. to use it. I've seen so called plastic brake hose clamps that have a fairly sharp angle on the end with a small radius that would do serious damage if used on brake hoses, because it's sold it doesn't mean it's safe to use. Just ask your MOT station or dealer if it's O.K. to use it . They will say no ! Any garage that used draper's tool would be liable for damage to the hose and the hose replacement. The damage will be visible long after the brake job is finished. Regardless of the use of the "crush" tool the brake system should still be pressure bled. Hoses are not designed to be crushed !

I'm sorry, mate, but it's perfectly ok to use hose clamps. If your hoses are that perished they collapse internally, they need replacing. It is not a good idea to use mole grips though.

You are absolutely correct, however, when you say that the line must be bled. Whenever the system is broken into, the lines must be bled.
However, if you clamp the hose, then replace the caliper, you need only bleed that line, as opposed to the whole system.

Pressure bleeding is best, but as I said earlier, the reservoir is weak and may burst. It is perfectly acceptable to bleed via the pedal. One person depresses the pedal, the other person opens the bleed nipple. The bleed nipple is then locked up, and the pedal released. Repeat until clear fluid comes out.

A variation on this is to stuff a bolt into a bit of rubber vacuum hose, make a small lengthways slit in the pipe, put the pipe over the bleed nipple, slacken the nipple and slowly pump the brake. The slit will allow air/fluid out under pressure, but will close up and seal when the pressure is released.

[vwcabriolet1971]

I'm sorry, mate, but it's perfectly ok to use hose clamps. If your hoses are that perished they collapse internally, they need replacing. It is not a good idea to use mole grips though.

You are absolutely correct, however, when you say that the line must be bled. Whenever the system is broken into, the lines must be bled.
However, if you clamp the hose, then replace the caliper, you need only bleed that line, as opposed to the whole system.

Pressure bleeding is best, but as I said earlier, the reservoir is weak and may burst. It is perfectly acceptable to bleed via the pedal. One person depresses the pedal, the other person opens the bleed nipple. The bleed nipple is then locked up, and the pedal released. Repeat until clear fluid comes out.

A variation on this is to stuff a bolt into a bit of rubber vacuum hose, make a small lengthways slit in the pipe, put the pipe over the bleed nipple, slacken the nipple and slowly pump the brake. The slit will allow air/fluid out under pressure, but will close up and seal when the pressure is released.
I think we agree to differ on the use of brake hose clamps

[ametlib]

Hi,
Up till a few years ago, I worked for the <where?> :D

We did use the hose clamps ( could usually get away with bleeding just one wheel then)
That said, next time the car was in the garage, it was not unusual that the brake hose had developed a "lump"
Also an internal leakage.
For us that was a win win situation, not so for you.

Maybe better to remowe the cap ontop of the reservoir and wrap plastic foil in its place, make it air tight.
Doeing so, I guess you will loose so little fluid the a quick bleed with the pedal is enough.

When bleeding, put something under the pedal, preventing it from going all the way in ( 3-5 cm)
The seals in the main cylinder have a nasty habit to get destroyed, if you press the pedal all the way to the floor.

Good luck!

[mickgrant]

I've been using brake pipe clamps made by lockheed since the 1960s and have never damaged a hose i must be lucky