Allroad Air Suspension Compressor strip & repair

[bagpipingandy]

Well for some time I, along with other Allroad’rs have been keen to see what actually makes the Allroad suspension compressor tick, well rattle anyway. I have had two dismantled and here are the findings:

1st many thanks to VinPetrol from VWAF who very kindly donated his old compressor which we believe was fitted (badly) by the last owner and had done approx 70K miles. The compressor was manufactured dated 2004. Its symptoms were, it was noisy & poor performance, so what makes it noisy and loose performance…..?
There are only a few moving parts, rotating motor, crank, piston and some one way valves. In this case the motor is fine no play in shafts, but the piston ring was a loose fit in the cylinder bore, with a lot of side to side play which would result in poor compression and could increase the noise.

In short, I have made a replacement Piston ring made from 25% Carbon graphite PTFE which is the same as the material used on the original, and ideal for these dry running applications. I have one fitted and it is now on trial on my own Allroad, the compression is renewed and now lifts the car much quicker. This is just under trial just now but I am quietly confident this is a good repair for the Allroad giving it a new lease of life. Better than £300-400 for a new air compressor!!

I could manufacture new PTFE rings in kits, if any one would be interested in changing these themselves then let me know. Typical symptoms would be it is very slow to raise through the levels, or even failing to reach a level, & very noisy. Get a fault code first to make sure all sensors & systems are working ok 1st.
I have had a new piston ring fitted to mine for 3 weeks now, I timed it the other day with car parked raised it from level 1 to 2 took 18 seconds, from level 2 to 3 took 18 seconds, and from level 3 to 4 took 45 seconds, it seems to run even better now than from when it was 1st fitted, I even struggle to hear it running at all .

This Piston ring repair kit may also suit other models I believe this Wabco unit part no 415 403 106 0 and other similar versions, can be found on the Q7, VW Touareg, Merc, BMW, Discovery and others. See wabco list in the PDF document found below.
I looked into this further & VW actually offer a repair kit for the Touareg compressor consisting of a new piston ring, o-ring seal and bolts. From pictures I have seen, they look the same wabco compressor unit apart from mounting brackets & the drier unit does differ slightly, but I have no evidence if they are actually the same.
VW also offer a new drier unit part which a few were for sale on E-bay recently but wrongly advertised as for the Allroad. The Touareg has another connection from the drier unit for inflating tyres from the same compressor hence it is not a straight forward fit for the Allroad.

For peoples ref the VW part number, should anyone wish to pursue, is 7L0 698 030 for the Piston repair kit £108+VAT I have no evidence if it is compatible. In my opinion the motor assembly and piston look very, very similar, also the ones offered by Arnott are from wabco & they look the same motor unit, only with different mountings, drier air connections or electrical connections, to suit different models. I may be wrong, I do not wish anyone to follow this info and for it to be wrong. Audi say the piston repair kit is not on offer for the Allroad, and in my opinion the kit was too expensive for me, to only maybe fit.

For a repair kit I was thinking a kit consisting of a new piston ring, new o-ring seal, 2 new bolts, loctite thread lock, tie wraps and a manual to fit it, I was thinking total £35 delivered to your door. I could make this kit available on E-bay or contact me direct to discuss other options.

See PDF for more info and photos of the strip down in more detail Here: 16282

Anyway some may find all the above info usefull J, others may not L. All Photos of the compressor in various bits can be found in my albums in my profile, If anyone else knows any other info, or if I have anything incorrect about these compressors it would be great to know more.

Any thoughts on, or any numbers interested in a Repair kit welcomed,

regards

Andy

[ceilidhalfie]

Andy, this looks to be excellent work on your part. Given my experience with compressor failure on my Allroad, it is an issue always at the back of my mind - even though I would fit it myself, when do I next have to shell out £400 for a new one. At £35, your kit is a no-brainer.
Only issue I would have is would the kit fix the next problem. My first falure was noisy compressor - still worked but very noisy and Audi recommended replacement. Looks like your kit would have fixed this problem. My second failure was without warning. One morning it was on level 1 and errored when I tried to raise back to normal level 2 or higher. A few hours later it could not maintain level 1 and again errored. I then had to get Audi France to recover and result was yet another new compressor. With this second fault there was no noisy motor and no warning. Does this fault fit into your failure analysis?
At £35 a kit, I think it would certainly be worth trying. Since I spend half the year in France, it might be worth having your kit in the glove compartment next to the spare bulb kit! How long do you think it will take for you to feel confident about the kit's durability?
Well done and I for one am VERY interested.

[allan_audi]

Andy, well done for looking into this, you must have spent ages, wish I had known couple of years ago when i had replaced my compressor ~400 quid....

Would certainly have gone for your repair kit..

Excellent post, good news for the allroaders...

[bagpipingandy]

Only issue I would have is would the kit fix the next problem. My first falure was noisy compressor - still worked but very noisy and Audi recommended replacement. Looks like your kit would have fixed this problem. My second failure was without warning. One morning it was on level 1 and errored when I tried to raise back to normal level 2 or higher. A few hours later it could not maintain level 1 and again errored. I then had to get Audi France to recover and result was yet another new compressor. With this second fault there was no noisy motor and no warning. Does this fault fit into your failure analysis?


By the sounds of your second fail this was a valve. leak or electrical issue, difficult to say but not a low compression issue so no a new ring would make sod all improvement, Audi's only option was to change the compressor as they don't take things to bits like us :). for example You can buy N111 valves and temp sensors seperate which all fit on to the compressor, i posted the link to a US company in my 1st post but for some reason it didn't work, but i have seen G290 sensors for sale and N111 solenoid valves, again if i had these faulty it would be my preference to buy the single part rather than the whole compressor, however you were stuck in France, and with a warranty on the newly fitted one it was the right thing to do.

As for durability I am confident it is as good as the original, The ring is made of the same material as my original compressor dated 2000, which is Carbon PTFE & is designed for dry running applications. I have done 128,000 miles and i honestly believe my compressor is the original, the dates and condition of it tie in together. My compressor was not on its way out, but it was tired.
So as long as i have not made any major manufacturing errors i feel it should be good for at least half this. it may take a while for me to do another 120,000 miles, think the cams would give in 1st!! I plan to run it another few weeks and swap it back to my original compressor also with a new ring to allow me to inspect the 1st one to make sure it looks ok, this is about all I can do as then only time will tell. I have 5 kits almost made up and I plan to put them on E-bay very soon. If there is any interest and people do fit them if they can report back here as this would give us all confidence if the parts are as I have described and are a fix for these units.

regards

Andy

[ceilidhalfie]

Andy, I see one can buy (for £40) a compressor temp sensor cable on e-Bay. Had a google search but cannot find where one could buy an N111 solenoid valve. Do you have a link for this?
I had (seriously) thought of carrying a repair kit in the car, but... your kit @ £35, the temp sensor cable @ £40 plus whatever for the N111 solenoid valve. I guess we would be looking at £100+.
Maybe it is a case of wating for a failure and then source the relevant parts.

[bagpipingandy]

Andy, I see one can buy (for £40) a compressor temp sensor cable on e-Bay. Had a google search but cannot find where one could buy an N111 solenoid valve. Do you have a link for this?
I had (seriously) thought of carrying a repair kit in the car, but... your kit @ £35, the temp sensor cable @ £40 plus whatever for the N111 solenoid valve. I guess we would be looking at £100+.
Maybe it is a case of wating for a failure and then source the relevant parts.

the link was: http://www.air-suspension-shop.com/ but for some reason the shop has dissappeared, it had al the parts based in the US, i found it only last week and thought it looked usefull, cannot be that good!! it had n111 solenoid valve, G290 temp sensors and full compressors for sale, sure there must be others we will need to keep a look out for them

Andy

[bagpipingandy]

Suspension Compressor Repair Kit available on e-bay, see link for reference should anyone wish to try one:

bagpipingandy | eBay (http://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/bagpipingandy/m.html?hash=item257524ee1a&item=160879144474&pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&rt=nc&_trksid=p4340.l2562)

full refund offered should there be any problems,

regards

Andy

[bagpipingandy]

The shop for parts has re-opened but is german now see link to allroad section english version here |!!: http://www.air-suspension-shop.com/index.php?k=21

I knew the shop was real just must have changed hands the day I last looked at it :confused:

They used to list the n111 valve so need to keep an eye on it to see if they list them again,

Note they have a new version of the compressor with a straight running piston (non fixed) claiming a longer life, this confirms to me it is ussually the piston rings that wear as I mentioned somewhere the pistons are fixed (no gudeon pin) and so do not travel straight in the cylinder generating more wear on the ring. this company will have fitted a new conrod and piston part to create this straight running version, not really worth it if you look after the leaks the compressor shouldn't have to work too hard anyway. anyway another supplier of parts we may need, hopefully not to soon!!

regards

Andy

[All-rod]

Very nice to see you have got it going Andy, and a proper ebay seller also!
I noticed two sold already, any feedback yet?
Do you think this job would be possible without lift or stands?
I managed to get hold of oem repair kit, don't know if I will do it myself or try to get someone to do it for me when time comes.

[bagpipingandy]

Just sold a 3rd, I told the guys to give feedback once fitted, so none yet, you need the car raised to remove the compressor, I use 2 ramps to drive the rear up on to.
When you say oem repair kit do you mean the ones I have mentioned above on eBay or direct from vw?

Regards
Andy

[All-rod]

This is VW oem kit with part number 100 698 010A

Contains:
- Wabco compressor head with integrated dryer

-Teflon Piston Ring
-Head bolts
-Rubber o ring Seals
-Cable clips

[bagpipingandy]

This is Audi oem kit with part number 100 698 010A

Contains:
- Wabco compressor head with integrated dryer

-Teflon Piston Ring
-Head bolts
-Rubber o ring Seals
-Cable clips

Got it on ebay, I saw this kit pop up second time now, but different sellers.

Affraid that kit is for a vw touareg, and wrongly advertised for the allroad. the drier unit is different and has a outlet to inflate wheels, however the piston ring and seal should be the same and are what i am offering and should fit.

How much was it?

Andy

[All-rod]

Kit was £100, hmm made me wonder now. I will post some pictures one day, to me it looks identical, but then I have not taken one appart yet.
I thought only mounting/wiring points might be different.

[bagpipingandy]

based on my findings, not concrete evidence :p, the parts you have bought are the drier unit, which sits on top of the motor, and piston ring with seals and bolts. the drier unit differs slighlty but to be honest you shouldn't need to use it, and you would have to modify it to suit, not much different to look at appart from the cooling vanes on top of the cylinder head differ and there will be a hole in the cylinder head for the Tyres inflater option

the piston ring is the bit you want, and should be ok.

regards
Andy

[All-rod]

Someone reported it is exact fit, just like the old one, but I'll just have to wait and see, otherwise I know where to get another one :p.
I will let you know the outcome when I tackle it.

[BPApsolut]

Hello everyone from a new member from Serbia. :cool: Firstly, thank to Bagpipingandy on excellent post. I had a few questions if someone has the time and mood to answer.

Is it necessary to do before removing the compressor procedure discharge air, as some guidelines describe, using the diag. equipment and entering the login code?

After mounting the compressor, how to perform the charging air, and to avoid the risk of bursting air "spring"? I know that the car should be up, ("wheels on air") and the "jack" mode ON.

TIA,
Bojan

[bagpipingandy]

Hi, and welcome.

removing only the compressor does not make the system to loose pressure, and you do not need to depressurise it and so it is very easy, as long as you can get the nuts off!!.
no need for vcds to remove or install The compressor. no need to recharge either as no air is lost

regards
Andy

[BPApsolut]

Tnx for the welcome, thanks for the everything. :cool:

Bojan

[mefoote35]

Good Day,
Exactley the thread I need. Great information. However, anyone knopw where I can get hold of one of these kits now??

MArk

[bagpipingandy]

Good Day,
Exactley the thread I need. Great information. However, anyone knopw where I can get hold of one of these kits now??

MArk

Hi Mark, the last batch has just finished yesterday on eBay, I will have more on tomorrow or by Friday latest. for ref, on ebay Search allroad compressor repair kit.

What are your suspension symtoms?

Regards

Andy

[mefoote35]

Hi Andy,
Thanks for reply.
Quick version!
Bought the car (2001 2.5tdi) and had the front passenger side replaced after about 4 months as was constantly down and proved to be leaking.
As I was working abroad for that four months - didn't know about it until I came back, so as a result compressor been working like buggery trying to pump up a leaky bag.

When bag was replaced, car was fine on two lights, no leaks and stays up.
However when it drops to one light, it struggles to pump up to two, and warning light comes on in the dash.

Rarely gets to three lights.

No real loud noise from the compressor unit, purrs away quite nicely.

Hope this helps

Mark

[bagpipingandy]

Hi mark, I would recomend a fault code read, but from your description it sounds like a tired compressor, a new Piston ring should get it up and running again. :)

Regards
Andy

[camb123guitar]

Hi Andy! Very impressive your work.....congratulations! I visited your store on eBay, so let me ask you:- Do you have the repair kit for a BMW X5 4 corners? Why dont you sell to brazilians? Thanks, regards !

[mefoote35]

Thanks Andy,

Any chance of kit before weekend as back home for the bank holiday (wee away from family), and would love to get it sorted then.

MArk

[bagpipingandy]

Hi Andy! Very impressive your work.....congratulations! I visited your store on eBay, so let me ask you:- Do you have the repair kit for a BMW X5 4 corners? Why dont you sell to brazilians? Thanks, regards !

Yes it should fit the X5 I have not physically fitted one to a X5 but they are the same compressor, Hi i have now added Brazil also, check your PM's

regards

Andy

[bagpipingandy]

Thanks Andy,

Any chance of kit before weekend as back home for the bank holiday (wee away from family), and would love to get it sorted then.

MArk

Hi Mark,

yes its possible Check your PM's for more info and to discus further

regards

Andy

[Peter Rudy]

Hi Andy
I think a reply from you just came in on my ebay message to you as I type this. Being in Denver, we have a ton of allroads (2nd highest number in the world I am told). Have you thought about a US and Can distributor for the rings? It would give me an excuse to visit my friend in Oban. I am a business solicitor and Audi enthusiast. I am sure there are bunch of parts places and forums to sell these on in the US. As you know, beer canning is the big range on the allroad compressors here and your seal is far superior. We can talk on Skype if you like. My wife is a glass artist and we already have a mail room set up. Looking forward to talking more.
kindest regards
Peter

[bagpipingandy]

Hi Peter, I will be in touch again through e-bay messages soon, I plan to improve the postage to USA, to be honest I havent had time to look at better shipping methods, I'm sure there is a cheaper method, I just chose the standard airmail method at the time.

An update for all on the repair kits:

I have made up a test rig to test each one as I make them, but all going well so far,

I made a slight mod the the shape from the earlier batches which dramatically increased the pressure to 12+ Bar from 1st fitting, the benifit is, reducing any bed in time and so increasing the pressure from the start.

feedback is: The hardest part is getting the bolts off as they can be rusted on.
Selling well, worldwide 70+ kits to date, 3 off returns in total, one couldn't remove any nuts and so did not use the kit at all, 1 fail/No pressure at all, not sure if the piston is intact/cylinder issues or if the piston ring was to blame, and one poor pressure which I have now swapped out with the new version for them to try, awaiting feedback about this, but I am confident it will solve there issue.

if anyone has any questions or had problems with the fitting please get in touch so I can assist.

best regards :)

Andy

[bagpipingandy]

Hi Kealle, you can buy the repair kits on ebay here: eBay - The UK's Online Marketplace (http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/160822573306?ssPageName=STRK:MESELX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1586.l2649)

best regards

And6y

[All-rod]

Nice to see you're doing well with these Andy.
What about vibration dampers and bolts that hold compressor, are they dealer only or you can suply them as well?

[bagpipingandy]

Nice to see you're doing well with these Andy.
What about vibration dampers and bolts that hold compressor, are they dealer only or you can suply them as well?


Hi All-rod, I have never personally bought any or replaced these but you can buy the dampers in a kit from the dealer, Part number: 4Z7 698 505 approx £26 for springs, washers, nuts, rubber mount and ally sleeve, everything appart from the long studs as they are attached to the mounting plate, unfortunetely I would think it is the studs likely to fail most due to corrossion, looking at the part catalogue the mounting plate with studs is more expensive £40+

are yours broken?

Andy

[All-rod]

Not sure of condition yet, but sure enough they will be corroded well and more likely need to be replaced.

[mrnice.]

Dont know if its been mentioned before but you could set up a compressor refurb service where for a price people send their faulty one to you, you strip, repair and test and post back (courier costs less than a tenner) and also sell ALL the various repair kits/parts etc that would be needed to fix a faulty compressor for the DIYers, You seem pretty clued up about it, it would help loads of forum members and you could make a few bob.

[adamdavis]

Hi folks, can anyone advise. Have compressor nearly off but am left with one of the air lines that goes back to the 6 line manifold. It's a black line and I am not sure if I should just use a spanner and remove the line? This won't cause any issues will it?Also, Andy, how do you test your compressor and get PSI/BAR readings. Might just replace the ring anyway but don't think it is the reason my Allroad has bottomed out.Thanks for any help,Adam

[bagpipingandy]

Dont know if its been mentioned before but you could set up a compressor refurb service where for a price people send their faulty one to you, you strip, repair and test and post back (courier costs less than a tenner) and also sell ALL the various repair kits/parts etc that would be needed to fix a faulty compressor for the DIYers, You seem pretty clued up about it, it would help loads of forum members and you could make a few bob.

I'm Happy to offer this as a service, i have a test rig for testing them now i can send photos if anyone is interested get in touch

regards

Andy

[bagpipingandy]

Hi folks, can anyone advise. Have compressor nearly off but am left with one of the air lines that goes back to the 6 line manifold. It's a black line and I am not sure if I should just use a spanner and remove the line? This won't cause any issues will it?Also, Andy, how do you test your compressor and get PSI/BAR readings. Might just replace the ring anyway but don't think it is the reason my Allroad has bottomed out.Thanks for any help,Adam

to remove the black line undo the 10mm fitting at the compressor around the airline, it is not very tight and uses a rubber o ring to seal it. it will hiss a bit but only to release air which is in the black airline, the car will not loose pressure. NOT OVERTIGHTEN IT on re-fitting, the compressor is only plastic. why do you wish to remove the compressor?

if your car is sinking you have a leak, not a compressor issue, we need more info to help:

what corner sinks? or describe the cars problem

my bet it is a leaking airbag (I have had 3 calls today all leaking airbags but they didn't believe me!!) ussual symptoms it sinks at level 1 but doesnt sink at level 3, cannot be a leak... right!!! WRONG this is classic of a leaking airbag,

To test pressure: use a pressure guage in the black airine or where it comes from the compressor, my new piston seals generate 15 Bar!! 200+psi the older ones were only half that, if anyone has an old ring they bought from me and have not fitted it I would be happy to exchange it if you want to get in touch. the old ones still work but take longer to bed in to increase the pressure.

regards

Andy

[adamdavis]

Thanks Andy for the response. I was just going to overhaul the suspension, including the compressor, with your kit, and the o rings top and bottom on each strut. Parked outside a friends house for 2 hours and came out and the front end particularly was bottomed out. The rear soon followed afterwards. I always drive at 3rd setting and park overnight on setting 4. For last few years if parked overnight at 2nd setting it may have dropped to 1st setting or lower and it would struggle, few warning lights, to get back up. Think I must have had a catastrophic failure of front airbag or o ring to account for sudden drop over a couple of hours. Will take off each strut in turn and examine, water submerge and replace as required. Some good videos on YouTube regarding same.
When you say put compression tester on compressor are you talking about the rigid thin black line (10mm) or larger bore one. Would I need to blank off any open ports? Was going to connect compressor direct to a spare car battery to activate, thermal sensor shouldn't be an issue. Not sure whether to go with VAG/German or Arnotts gen 1 or 2 bags. Anyone any advice?
cheers folks.

[adamdavis]

Progress so far. Compressor removed and powered via spare car battery. Connected a pressure meter to slim (10mm) output pipe but didn't register anything. Motor bit rattley and noisy. Put my finger over and output and just about felt air pressure. Possibly not enough to half fill a bike tyre never mind lift a 2t allroad, even with the aid of a cylinder. Noted that the larger bore rigid pipe, connected via 2 outlets to compressor, was probably air inlet as slight suction felt here. Presume the clear plastic housing opposite piston end is an air filter of some type, presumably removed for cleaning? via a hex in its centre. Where do you find the non return valves? Feel compressor is giving no way enough output and as such may be a reason why allroad wont lift up. Usually times out after45 seconds and then quicker, presuming thermal cut out in action? Still doesn't explain why car dropped in 2 hours so still going with hole in bag/o ring failure but should overhaul compressor whilst it is out.
Thanks, Adam.

[bagpipingandy]

Hi Adam,

The sinking is a leak and is not to do with the compressor, you need to find the leak, it will be on the corner that sinks to the bump stop, ussually the front passanger side (guess), the rest of the corners sink to try and keep the car level but the lowest is the one with the leak, you must park at level 1 to find the leak, parking at level 3 prevents the air escaping and it will not ussually drop at level 3 or higher.

if the car keeps sinking at 1 it will more than likely be the airbag, on the lower part where it folds over, spray the airbag with soapy water on suspect corner, leave the car sitting on its wheels parked at level 1 and go have a cup of tea, go back and inspect the airbag for bubbles, if ther is a leak bubbles will form , but again they will only form at level 1, I had a guy yesterday with these symptoms looking for leaks but he was parked at level 3, they dont tend to leak at level 3 park the car at level 1 and it will leak if it is the airbag,

if a leak is found i recommend you fix this 1st, your compressor will be tired to counter act the leak, a repair kit should refurbish it, but ultimately find and fix the leak,

search this forum there is loads of info on airbag leaks and if proved change ony the leaking one with an arnott one, I don't recommend stripping the strut to find the leak you will never replicate the conditions, find the leak then replace the faulty part, don't go overboard with stripping the whole system.

One way valves are found inside the drier unit, i would leave them until you try a new ring as they will be ok, you could do more damage than good in there, the low pressure issue should be the piston seal.

regards

Andy

[adamdavis]

Cheers Andy, much appreciated. Problem is that there is no air in any of the bags and she is on bump stops all round. Can't test for air bubbles without compressor? Don't feel any pressure much at skinny black outlet pipe, presume I should be able to feel a good bit? Plan is to rejuvenate compressor to allow car to get upto setting 1 then do fairy liquid test. Looking at prices of bags, sensors and distribution block, tempted to just put in std shocks / coil overs. Least job is done when finished. What would be best std suspension kit? I understand that an allroad without air suspension is devoid of its character but I would have a cheaper to maintain Quattro A6 Avant with allroad styling...

[bagpipingandy]

if the car is on all its bump stops did you release the air out anytime by removing the valve block or airlines or other?

I think you are getting a bit ahead here, you need to fault find what the issue is rather than replacing all the parts it will save you a lot of money in the long run

if you have a leaking airbag the max is £300 to repair, i wouldn't go swapping to springs, only my opinion.

what is the condition of the car just now are all the parts still on the car appart from the compressor?

did you have any error lights on prior to removing the compressor?

I would repair the compressor if you think it is low on compression, get it back on the car and go fault finding from there

regards

[Phutters]

Another thumbs up for Andy's compressor piston-ring repair kit.

I did mine this morning, and had no trouble at all. The fact that nothing was rusted on made life considerably easier, of course. Other than cleaning the corroded alloy from the mating surfaces of the compressor cylinder head (as it were), the longest job was spending yonks looking for a 10mm nut which I thought I'd booted down the road by accident but which turned out to be stuck in the end of the socket.

Anyway, the end result is a compressor which is all but inaudible from inside the car whereas before it sounded like something you'd want to send back to Ann Summers because it was disturbing the neighbours.

And I've got a level three to level four of about forty seconds.

Nice job Andy, and thanks again

Pete

[bagpipingandy]

No problem Pete, :)

Must be nice to have a rust free one!

[DuncanG]

Out of curiosity, as I'm new to these cars, what pressure do these compressors run at?

[bagpipingandy]

A brand new one normal running will produce 12-14BAR maximum rating is 16 BAR

regards

Andy

[bootie3367]

I'm glad you managed to get another compressor Andy, the one we swapped is Still with the garage, however the new one performs well albeit a bit noisier than original, this is due to the inlet hose not being complete!
Next time I am back in Scotland (mid July) I will get that compressor to you. I was thinking, looking back at the posts in this thread that the refurbish/replace business would do well if you had a few donated to you to start with.
I will persuade my young lad that he should let me send it off to you for just that purpose, that way in the future when he has/might have problems with the new unit you could come to the rescue so to speak.
Let me know your thoughts on that.

Regards
Jon

[big1pie2003]

Andy,

Got the "Mark 2" compressor ring today and fitted it. Old one is in the post.

I'm shocked at how good it is. I compared them on the bench and could see subtle differences, I never got the vernier on it and I never expected the performance that I actually got.

The car went from 0 to setting 4 no problems.

The initial result is amazing, I'm not sure how long I will keep the car but I'll report back if there are any more issues with it.

Thanks again,

Pat.

[bagpipingandy]

Yes the new ring is really good, (even if i do say do do myself!!)

the results are great, it produces the maximum pressure equal to what the new compressors generate (16BAR)

obvious the MK1 is now obsolete and only MK2 rings on offer :)

regards

Andy

[adamdavis]

Thanks Andy for the ring. All fitted but no joy. Car still on bump stops all round, possibly not at the rear. Compressor is quieter now but still same symptoms, turn on ignition and compressor activates to try and get to level 1. Initially it will run for 40 seconds or so but no lift. Repeating this a few times will cause the compressor to only run for a second or 2 before it switches off. Presume this means that overheating protection is working fine. No fault codes still. Not sure where to go from here, jack the front of the car up and remove wheels and see if air is leaking from front bags? Both are on bump stops so not much clearance. Is it possible to inflate bags manually to test for air bubbles and to take out the manifold near compressor out of the equation? Could this be a fault of sensor on one front wheel and the other has deflated to match it? Any advice folks?

[big1pie2003]

Adam,

I would keep it really simple to begin with. Beg borrow or steal enough jacks to lift the vehicle in to roughly position 2 or 3. This will have the effect of removing the weight of the car from the air springs. Then press the "up" button so the compressor cuts in to raise it to the next highest position.

Assuming all the bags are now inflated because the compressor has filled them, you can then use some soapy liquid to leak test the bags, start with the front left. You will need to slowly lower each jack in turn to load the air bag and find the leaks.

Finding enough jacks might be an issue though but its what I would do to save a few quid. If the bags have gone on the front your looking at £500 for parts minimum. I've just replaced mine with Arnotts.

Regards,
Pat.

[bagpipingandy]

What are you reading the fault codes with? You should at least have a switch off due to overheat.
What height is the back wheel arch from rear wheel centre, both sides?

Andy

[adamdavis]

Thanks Andy/Pat, heres the update. Jacked up the front end via trolley jack each side to try your theory Pat and a general visual before soapy water and drivers side solid but passenger side....woahh....3 inch rip. I suspect, only just, that this may cause this side not to inflate, and as a result i have a sympathy inflate on drivers side. Open and shut case really but dilemma now, buy 1 bag and install, probably std arnotts, and i am away again or install a coil conversion kit. If another bag fails, likely that the drivers side could go the same as i have had allroad 6 years and no replacements (2002 model), not to mention that the valve block manifold yoke looks a bit rough visually, we wont be long before the cost of the coil conversion kit is met, plus the headaches/stranded etc. Like the adjustable ride height but don't do a lot of towing and this car would be a third car and idle a bit and used in winter when we are sometimes stranded with snow/ice. Can't afford to keep chucking money at it but do love it. Not even sure which coil kit i'd go for, Arnotts originally bit rumbly until they used Bilsteins, not sure if still the same? or Blauparts? Dilemmas...

[bagpipingandy]

Buy 1 new arnott, job done!

Andy

[adamdavis]

Note that P38 in UK are doing a front Arnott for £300 plus shipping of £25 to Cork but there is a German seller doing similar, not Arnott but Goodyear bag, for £250 plus same shipping cost. £250 better than £300 but not sure if quality is good? Presume you just reconnect the 10mm airline on Arnott just that one previous poster said that you had to cut the airline to fit???

Cheers, Adam

[bagpipingandy]

I have heard the new arnott bags come with push fit connections instead of the thread, meaning you can cut the connection off and the pipe push fits onto the new bag, i would strongly recommend the arnotts, most folks in need on here has used them, I've only seen a photo of the goodyear, and it doesn't look nearly as good a quality,

Regards
andy

[big1pie2003]

Personally, I would (and did) change components in pairs. I saved a few quid buying both bags at the same time direct from Arnott in the US (via ebay). I would of saved an extra £105 in import tax if I had a friend in the US who could of sent sent them to me as a "gift".

As for coils and springs, I would look at if I plan to run the car into the ground. If you don't care about re-sale value then convert, it'll save money long term.

And the bags I got were push fit air connections, actually the airlines did not need cutting as I carefully removed the olive and the hose was fine.

I took some pictures of the job and put a thread on here, I'll dig out the cable for my camera phone and get them up. Not sure if you want to attempt the job but theres plenty of help on here if you need it.

And p38 want around the £600 mark for the pair, he doesn't make much profit. Import them yourself and it comes in around the £525 mark (with the £105 tax).

Pat.

[adamdavis]

Thanks Andy and Pat. Allroad doesn't hold too many fears at this stage, already had front end off twice to replace aux belt tensioner components, sheared/seized bolt so had to take oil pump off etc. Also had to replace multifunction switch on side of gearbox, and done both front window mechanisms. Not an easy car to work on but suspension looks a doddle besides pinch bolt but some don't touch it. Cars don't have any value in Ireland because of cost of car tax linked to engine size, only worth €5k at a push, rather keep it for bad weather and as a backup car. As such can't afford to spend €2k over next couple of years replacing 4 bags as they go plus valve block and sensors. Like the idea of just spending €300 now but not if front driver goes shortly, why wouldn't it, and then need another €300. Almost at cost of coil conversion. Not sure which to go for though.

[allan_audi]

....As such can't afford to spend €2k over next couple of years replacing 4 bags as they go plus valve block and sensors.

Hi, just thought I'd add this here... your rear air bags should be ok, I don't think they generally fail. I replaced the two fronts with Arnotts a couple of years ago, suspension been fine ever since and its year 2000 model. Even loaded quarter a tonne of ballast from wickes other day in boot, what car can still keep its same ride height....

Plus have you checked the wiring around the valve block, it can get very messy and suffers exposure from elements, check for hardened, cracked, even broken wires rather than expecting to change the block itself...

[vilk85]

Hi All I'm to this forum.

Reason I decided to join is that I look for solution to repair or refurbish an old air compressor from my 2001
Allroad. This was a second hand unit and it lasted for 20K not much but I did not expect more as it was already used one. It's barely managing to lift my car I believe that the time is nearly over for it.

Andy, is there any chance you'll have more of these Magic Repair kits for allroad air compressors? I'm interested to purchase one as it is best solution to retrieve my unit. I live in Poland and I could not find the piston ring nowhere but here.

Please advise me.

[bagpipingandy]

Hi, welcome to the forum,

i have kits available here: bagpipingandy | eBay (http://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/bagpipingandy/m.html?hash=item257524ee1a&item=160879144474&pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&rt=nc&_trksid=p4340.l2562)

if they run out just search ebay UK/worldwide for Allroad compressor repair kit, they should come up,

best regards

Andy

[bootie3367]

Just so that all are aware, I have a pal in the states that could and would do this (the gifting thing) so let me know. The only downside is, like me, he works offshore and is away for a month at a time so if it was urgent you would have to take the chance on him being at home at the time!

Cheers
Jon


Personally, I would (and did) change components in pairs. I saved a few quid buying both bags at the same time direct from Arnott in the US (via ebay). I would of saved an extra £105 in import tax if I had a friend in the US who could of sent sent them to me as a "gift".

As for coils and springs, I would look at if I plan to run the car into the ground. If you don't care about re-sale value then convert, it'll save money long term.

And the bags I got were push fit air connections, actually the airlines did not need cutting as I carefully removed the olive and the hose was fine.

I took some pictures of the job and put a thread on here, I'll dig out the cable for my camera phone and get them up. Not sure if you want to attempt the job but theres plenty of help on here if you need it.

And p38 want around the £600 mark for the pair, he doesn't make much profit. Import them yourself and it comes in around the £525 mark (with the £105 tax).

Pat.

[vinceallroad]

Hi Andy,
salvation may have arrived! Ive a 2005 allroad with pressure reduction in the compressor, have you a repair kit available - couldnt see one on ebay.
thanks
Vince

[bagpipingandy]

Hi Vince,

they are some currently available see here:

bagpipingandy | eBay (http://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/bagpipingandy/m.html?hash=item257524ee1a&item=160879144474&pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&rt=nc&_trksid=p4340.l2562)

regards

Andy

[Alski2009]

Thanks Andy. Received my allroad compressor repair kit the other day. I've filled a new set of rear diff mounts with HM polyurethane sealant and need some free time to take the lot apart. Posted a link to this thread on Audi Sport.net. Hope you don't mind.

[bagpipingandy]

No Problems, I see discussions asking if they are any good or not, just to let you know I've sold 200 units to date & feedback can be seen on ebay, all good :)

regards

Andy

[cmansilla]

Hello,
I'm new in this forum. My name is César Mansilla and I'm from Chile. I don't have an Audi car but I have a Land Rover Discovey 2, this car comes with a Wabco air compressor and it have problems of noise and takes a lot of time to inflate the suspension. I was looking on eBay for this repair kit but I can't find it. Somebody know where can I buy this kit?.
Regards!

[bagpipingandy]

Hi César,

The last batch has just sold out but I should have more ready hopefully this week, keep a watch on ebay here for when they are listed: bagpipingandy | eBay (http://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/bagpipingandy/m.html?_nkw=&_armrs=1&_from=&_ipg=&_trksid=p3686) (it is empty just now but when they are for sale they will show up)

best regards

Andy

[vinceallroad]

Hi Andy,
got the repair kit, compressor as good as new now! Happy days and thank you!
heres another quiz question for you from one of your earlier posts - how come when allroads are at level 3 the leaking bag doesnt show up as a sinking car, but the same car put at level 1 sinks like a stone?

[bagpipingandy]

Hi Vince,

Glad to hear the kit is working well

This sinking gets confused a lot as you would think more air pressure measne more leaks, however the air bladders tend to leak due to the rubber being perrished around the lower section (the curve of the air blader into the Shock absorber), You can see this only when you remove the old air bladder and fold it exposing the perrished rubber area.

So at level 1 the perrished rubber cracks are slightly open and air escapes, as the car lifts to level 3 the airbladder gets longer and the perrished area moves up to the straighter section and so the perrished cracks close and stop air escaping

I have drew a sketch to assist,

18155


Best regards
Andy

[vinceallroad]

nice one Andy!
Im sure you have you come across the youtube repair video
Audi Allroad Air spring/ airbag suspension repair - YouTube (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=clzBUaUL2H4)

in it the lad recommends greasing top of the piston where it moves in and out of the airbag... with the notion of reducing the friction / fatigue in the curl of the bag...

whats your thoughts?

cheers again
Vince

[matthewtaylor]

Hello guys,

Great forum you have here with brilliant information. I've been toying with the idea of becoming an Audi Allroader for the past few weeks, but have come across nothing but big bills and for compressor changes and suspension bladders which made me start to look out for a different car brand alltogether, until I found this webpage by lucky chance. Here in Ireland the RoadTax costs have caused the price of older large displacement engine cars to plummet, so I thought it would be a good time to invest in a nice bit of fancy German engineering. I currently own a 2.5L petrol coupe that drinks petrol, gives little comfort and is of little practical use to me when moving anything.

I'm interest in a 2000, 2.5tdi A6 allroad. I've heard some stories that this versions of the audi 2.5 diesel engine up to 2000 are to be avoided. Lately I've come across a genuine seeeming car and seller and I'm very interested and will be test driving soon. The seller mentions that the original compressor (thus 12yrs old) is slow to raise the last two levels, but does indeed work. I intend to view this car soon and was interested if any of your expert owners here could give me any tips to look out for when viewing and test driving. You mentioned noise in this thread, so I intend to look out for that in the compressor and I'm hoping bagpipeandy's fix would then be enough.

I look forward with interest to hearing back from any of you with good advice and I hope that with some good tips, I can become a fellow regular on this forum when/if I become the proud owner of a wonderful automotive machine.

Many thanks in advance,


Matthew

[bagpipingandy]

Hi Matthew, and welcome to the forum,

the early 2.5tdi issues are they suffer cam wear due to the longlife oil services, check for cam repair work in any repair history (they may have been changed) you can barely see one of the cam lobes through the oil filler cap, but it is difficult to conclude the full condition only from this view,

if the compressor works ok but just slow then the kit will be suffice to refurbish this. the compressors are typically noisy anyway its just masked slightly by the 2.5tdi lump which is noisier!!

other than than just make sure everything works elctrically, check CV rubbers, make sure the car doesnt sink when parked at Level 1, make sure no error lights are on, the compressor can throw the suspension error light on after 2 mins of running, if the light turns off with ignition off then on thats also a good sign the compressor is just tired and not another major issue.

regards

Andy

[matthewtaylor]

Hi Matthew, and welcome to the forum,

the early 2.5tdi issues are they suffer cam wear due to the longlife oil services, check for cam repair work in any repair history (they may have been changed) you can barely see one of the cam lobes through the oil filler cap, but it is difficult to conclude the full condition only from this view,

if the compressor works ok but just slow then the kit will be suffice to refurbish this. the compressors are typically noisy anyway its just masked slightly by the 2.5tdi lump which is noisier!!

other than than just make sure everything works elctrically, check CV rubbers, make sure the car doesnt sink when parked at Level 1, make sure no error lights are on, the compressor can throw the suspension error light on after 2 mins of running, if the light turns off with ignition off then on thats also a good sign the compressor is just tired and not another major issue.

regards

Andy

Thank you and that's absolutely sound of you Andy. Cheers for getting back to me so fast. I really appreciate your advice on what to look out for and will print definitely take your advice to hand. The car has just got its NCT (our MOT) this month, so that should means all the CV boots should be tip-top ( I will check all the same, so must remember to get into my cash clothes!). It has low mileage, which worries me in a diesel, but he says that he has full Audi SerHis and that's where all the work has been done, so I will check with him, and the documentation to see if the history pans out with regards to your point about the oil changes.

I have one other question and my apologies about any thread jacking! My driveway is an incline up towards the road. There's probably a 1.3 metres in it over 7 metres. (Can't estimate the gradient off-hand). I usually reverse in so that I can just drive straight out in the mornings... I was just wondering last night... wouldn't parking on an incline like this everyday put a strain on the suspension bladders???

Regardless, I will keep you guys informed of how things go and I have to say that I get a good feel about this forum already,


Matthew.

[bagpipingandy]

I wouldn't think the incline has any major affect on the suspension, but you better test the handbrake though while viewing!! :) I suppose at least the 2.5Tdi has the torque and power to get you up there easily every morning!! (the driveway i mean!!)

regards

Andy

[Phutters]

...wouldn't parking on an incline like this everyday put a strain on the suspension bladders???Sounds about as steep as our drive, and I've had no trouble with my allroad's bladder over the past eight years or so.

My guess is that you'd be okay.

Having said that, you may well find that the suspension has a mind of its own on occasion.

Seems to be dependent mostly on it being a Thursday, the price of pigs' ears at the pet shop and whether or not the lady in the house three doors up hangs her smalls out on the washing line.

[matthewtaylor]

Sounds about as steep as our drive, and I've had no trouble with my allroad's bladder over the past eight years or so.

My guess is that you'd be okay.

Having said that, you may well find that the suspension has a mind of its own on occasion.

Seems to be dependent mostly on it being a Thursday, the price of pigs' ears at the pet shop and whether or not the lady in the house three doors up hangs her smalls out on the washing line.


Brilliant... :) Thank you both for good advice and amusement. Having a rough day, so both appreciated.

Matt

[Pneumatic]

i found this topic, i been working with compressors many years. and i can say the ring will help only for short time because there is much to do when compressor become bad, not just open put ring and then put it back, anyone without knowledge of compressors can even not start to repair it. 80% of bad compressors has scratches on cylinder, and if u not change cylinder these sctratches will eat ring and also will reduce the speed of making pressure.
new allroad compresor makes car go up from 1-4 level in 1 minute 30 seconds.

[bagpipingandy]

i found this topic, i been working with compressors many years. and i can say the ring will help only for short time because there is much to do when compressor become bad, not just open put ring and then put it back, anyone without knowledge of compressors can even not start to repair it. 80% of bad compressors has scratches on cylinder, and if u not change cylinder these sctratches will eat ring and also will reduce the speed of making pressure.
new allroad compresor makes car go up from 1-4 level in 1 minute 30 seconds.

Hi Pneumatic, welcome to the forum ;)

I agree with you 80% of used compressors have scratches in the cylinder, as almost every working cylinder, some of that % will even have damaged cylinders beyond use, the damage would be when the piston ring wears down so much the actual piston body rubs the cylinder wall rendering it useless, however fitting a new piston ring to an already used (not damaged) cylinder will renew the compression and will last for some time. I can only quote the longest running kit is from Feb 2012, but it still lifts from 1-4 quicker than the times you are quoting and generates the 16Bar maximum pressure for this type of compressor. I would like to hope in 1 year from now i can say it still has the same output, but I cannot make it up as I have no evidence as yet, but to be honest i have heard of new compressors lasting less time!!

If the compressor is tired and has "normal" wear then the piston ring will renew the compression and give it a new lease of life, it will not last forever!! nor will a new compressor.

with over 300+ sold now and 160 +ve feedbacks left thus far, available for anyone to read, some people I assume still to fit the kit and some just not having time to leave feedback, it cannot be that bad, as if it were I'm sure people would not be long in telling me if it does not work.

if unsure I would suggest a new compressor is definetely better to fit, but very expensive, it is completely up to the individual.

if you are Mantus from Lithuania and you are still looking to buy some in bulk please get in touch :)


best regards

Andy

[Pneumatic]

yes i am Mantas from lithuania. if you want to sell car then maybe it will work changing only ring, but if u want it to be like new for like 10 years need to change cylinder ring and do much other works with this compressor. i am renewing them for 150$ in Lithuania, this includes original wabco ring, cylinder, all valves, seals, air drier, bolts and other things needed to make it like new. the ring price is a little big for me, i am searching cheaper rings and whole kits than i am buying now because i get only few $ for much work now, it takes few hours to renew compressor and i want more $ for work.

[bagpipingandy]

Hi Mantas,

I think distributors of these items are very, very rare, as it is easier, and it is probably more economical for manufacturers to sell whole compresors rather than repair kits.
however you can get all these parts you are looking for from your VW dealer who offer this as a repair kit for the Touareg, the vw part number is in my 1st post somewhere in this thread, I assume that may be where you get your parts from just now?

Changing the complete top end of the compressor is still relient on the motor, when the motor gives in the whole thing is useless. :(

on the bright side if you want your compressors to have a better chance of lasting 10 years, maybe best to buy 2 of my compressor kits, keep one as a spare!! :) :)

Andy

[Pneumatic]

i don't need chance, they will work as new after renew for 10 years if the remaining of pneumatic system is intact:) motor becomes bad only in 10 % compressors, it doesn't do nothing just drives the piston in the same speed always. i change motors too if it is needed.
yes i know toureg kit now u can understand i am searching possibility to buy cheaper, because after installing toureg kit i get nothing.

[bagpipingandy]

As far as I am aware of there are no other repair type kits available :(

regards

Andy

[sorin_allroad]

Hi guys , i'm new on this forum . I have the next problem :
i have changed the all 4 air bags (2 weeks ago) . The car is not sagging (i park it for 3 days and it did not lower any inch) , but when i'm driving it , the compresor starts at every 3 .. 6 minutes for about 10 ..15 seconds. When i drive on bad roads , the compresor starts more frequently then when i drive on highway . In the city , when i accelerate and use brake on stops the compresor also starts frequently. I don't think the compresor has a problem because it lifts the car from 1 to 4 in less than 2 minutes . I think it's a dynamic problem of the suspension , a leaking when the air bags are compressed , and where could it be ?
Can you help me please !

[Pneumatic]

looks like one of your airbag is leaking, after a night on 1st position the car is standing normal?

[bagpipingandy]

Hi sorin_allroad, welcome to the forum,

Were the airbags fitted brand new? if not, as pneumatic says and park at level 1 to see if it sinks?

if they are new did you fit new top and bottom o-ring seals? or next a fault code read would check the level sensors

regards

Andy

[sorin_allroad]

I checked and it seems that sensors are properly attached (I don't know about the rusty) . But I did something else: I disconnected one at a time all 4 sensors and the car had the same symptoms. Now i'm going with two disconnected (after I balanced the car with all sensors coupled) and the level buttons on the board are switch off, but the car do not lose air !!!!! I drived 100 miles in the city and around and the car doesn't sink at all, and the compressor don't start. The old owner of the car says that if the compressor has no power to put 17psi and puts less (eg. 13psi) then that's why it starts so often to all requests for increased pressure on pillows. However, whith the sensors coupled i hear a strong breathed (pfuu), meaning that a big amount of air is eliminated suddenly.Where is the way out of the air ?Which path should i follow: the compressor and valve block or level sensors?

Thanx guys for helping me !!!!

[bagpipingandy]

OK a lot of info but not sure if its what we asked for :) :)

if you disconnect the sensors and drive the car (I assume the suspension error light is on) the whole operation of the system may be dissabled, but from your description I think you are trying to tell us it does not sink, which would be good, IS THIS CORRECT?

the reason we were asking to park at level 1 is it is a good clear way to tell if the airbags are leaking, they leak at level 1 but do not leak when parked higher at level 2, 3, or 4, we do not know yet if you fitted new airbags or second hand units hence trying to decifer if it sinks or not, as this would be a good reason for the compressor over working.

the quotes of 17psi is way off and near impossible as it would not work at all, you need at least 100psi for anything to happen with a new compressor working at 200+psi, perhaps he means 170 & 130psi ??

the increased pressure on the pillows i dont think would have any effect but the suspension moving could be causing air to escape, but there is really too much to guess what could be wrong we need clear info:

So start with basics:

Is the suspension error light on?
Does the car sink when parked at level 1?
Does the system operate correctly, lift from level 1 to 4 with no error light coming on?
Is the only issue you think the compressor runs more that it should or other symptoms as well?
can you get the suspension system scanned for faults using VCDS?, it will tell us the errors stored and maybe assist us in the correct direction

let us know your answers to the list above and it may help diagnose the problem :confused::D

regards

Andy

[sorin_allroad]

Yes , the car does not sink and the compressor does not start. After 100 miles of running !!(with the sensors disconnected) . If the sensors were connected it probably started for over 20 times.
The suspension error light is on only when I disconnect a sensor .
I will park the car at level 1 and see what will happen after night.
The car lifts from level 1 to 4 whith no error lights.
The compressor runs more that it should , and I hear a PFUU , an evacuation of the air when it stops.

About the VCDS , i will interest and see where can i do one .
What is the normal pressure in the tank (the accumulator of the air) and how can i verify it?
Is there in the air sistem a pressure relief valve that could not work properly , and cause air to be evacuated at a lower pressure that it should ?
Thank you for helping me!

[bagpipingandy]

Ok, try to get the fault codes, to be honest it sounds as if it may be working ok, the compressor will turn on and off during all journeys, it is designed to start after you hit 15MPH and will turn off after a short while, it is hard to advise what is a "normal" amount of compressor ON and OFFs.

the only thing is the air you hear escaping, If this is when you park the car, & wait a second or 2 after locking and then you hear air escaping this can be normal and is the car leveling itself when parked. An Example if you have a heavy load in the boot, park the car and remove the heavy load, lock the car, the suspension will vent air out to lower the rear back down to level again, (this you will hear a sharp PSSSSSS and then stop (you can also see the car lowering itself) if you think the car is over compensating it is hard to say what could be the issue but to be honest if it goes up and down and no error lights its a good one!! :) there are many others would pay for one like that!!

get fault codes with vcds, you will need to read them, then clear them, and then read what codes come back after a short while of using it, as you will have loads of codes after unplugging all the level sensors!! :)

Perhaps if it isnt broken dont try to fix it :)

regards

Andy

[Golf tdi Hal]

went out to my allroad on a frosty morning to find the front wings sitting on the wheels... no worries, there was enough pressure in the tank to sort it out but it made me wonder why Audi didn't fit a solid rubber post inside the air struts to ensure they don't drop this far...
just a thought

[bagpipingandy]

Sounds like you have a leak you will need to fix, as for the bump stops there are some as with all cars but they are just a last resort to stop the car hitting the deck, also I would imagine the ride would suffer if they were much higher up, with any large imapacting pot holes or other random bumps,

Andy

[Drsakke]

Hi, first post on the forum from a first time AUDI owner, always BMW before.
I have an allroad 2001 2,7 biturbo with appr. 105k miles on it. When I bought it it sat on level 2 stable, but after 1 week I decided to test the suspension more. Went up to 3 and 4 but took a lot of time, espec. 3-4. I have had the car four weeks now and the function has deteriorated quite a lot under this time. after two weeks It took to level 3 only sporadically, and that after a long time pumping. After 2,5weeks only level 2 (OK to sink the car to L1- it would go up- but again, tok some time, maybe 2-3 min. ) . Now under this last week, it often sinks from L2 to L1 under night, if L2 is pushed in it would go up after 2 or 3 times (after failed raise - level warning light in dash)- turn off ignition and it would go again.
Now it sits at level 1 constantly, does not rise to L2 at all. No sagging from level 1 under 1 days parking. The compressor seems to go often (like 1-2 times a minute) sometimes while parking.

I have noticed that sometimes after failed rising, the front seemed to sit lower (like L1 front and L2 rear), sometimes the drivers side front has been lower on itself after parking over night.
The front bags have been replaced in 2006 at about 60k miles(originals) and left rear with Arnott 2011. compressor is original.
To me it seems like I have leak at least at Left front air spring and probable compressor wear (it is running, sometimes a bit loud). The suspension level varning only lights up after failed raise. Only once I have noticed it lighting under journey after a bump in the road, but at that time it was trying to pump as the L2 light was blinking.

any other suggestions?
Two air springs + compressor repair kit and valve block to be sure???

Sakke

[bagpipingandy]

Hi And welcome to the forum,

No, no need to change all these parts. it is only a repair kit is required, the front lower you see is just the car low on air due to the compressor being weak, if it is a leak it would sink to the bump stops when parked, does it sink all the way to bump stops?
A tired compressor shows up when trying to lift a level, it tries for 120 seconds then puts the error light on, but ignition off and on the error clears and it tries again, this is exactly a worn compressor which the kit will fix, no need to change the other parts.....for now anyway!! :)

Kits here :): bagpipingandy | eBay (http://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/bagpipingandy/m.html?_nkw=&_armrs=1&_from=&_ipg=&_trksid=p3686)

best regards

Andy

[Drsakke]

OK.
I just thought that as it sinks over night from seemingly stable L2 to L1, there has to be air escaping somewhere. And the fact that it pumps often when the car stands still at idle with seemingly stable level. And the fact that left front has been down on its own.
Hard for me to say if it has been on the bump stops, but the L1 light has never blinked and as at L2 there is about 3-4 finger wide space between arc and tire and when sunk down at front maybe 1-2 finger widths Seems to correspond L1.

Best regards
Sakke

[bagpipingandy]

the car will lower itself from level 2 to level 1 even with no ignition on as it is low on air pressure, it lowers to level 1 venting the air into the storage tank, if a leak it will sink further from level 1 all the way to the bump stops with the wheel inside the wheel arch, it would be obvious, again if a leak level 1 light would flash on ignition on and also the suspension error light in the dash would flash to indicate the car is lower than it should be.

does it show these signs of sinking to bump stops or just to level 1?

regards

Andy

[Drsakke]

No, never under L1. Sakke

[bagpipingandy]

That is good news, no airbag needed, you need a new compressor or a repair kit it is up to you, I can assure you the repair kit will work OK

best regards

Andy

[Drsakke]

It has now happened once that at start when in L1 the compressor started going and the warning light came on after apps. 2mins. switch off and start again, all good, but no going above L1. Actually managed to get the car to L2 today, lets see how long that lasts. Putting an order via ebay on one of your kits as I am pretty handy, and I managed to find a DIY garage with lifts ( it isn`t that attractive to lie under the car in -5 degrees centigrade and snow trying to remowe stuff)

All the best
Sakke

[bagpipingandy]

yes best to be indoors to change it, good find using the lift :), your kit is posted and on its way.
You can actually change the piston ring without removing the compressor from the car but only if the screws come out easily, this may save you time and money if you are paying to hire the ramp, however if the bolts are tight is can be easier with the whole unit off the car to clean the bolt threads and use plenty of loosening agent, best tip is ENSURE the cylinder is clean before assembly, clean the cylinder with a dry cloth only to make sure no dirt is in there

keep us updated how you get on

best regards

Andy

[Drsakke]

Yes i reckoned it would be possible to just remove the compressor cylinder head with the compressor in place. It is also turned up side down so all the crap will go away from the cylinder when opening?
Little OT: I thought of changing rear brake discs at the same time, is there any special things to think of /tools needed. I have done this on several BMW:s in all four corners and it has been very simple. Is that the case with AUDI also (I have been left with the impression that AUDI seems to have more service points and is a little less DIY friendly )

All the best
Sakke

[Drsakke]

The package has arrived! Will report back when I have the time to replace the piston ring.

Best reg.
Sakke

[jpp12a]

Sir

Your repair kit looks as if it might be useful for my problem. Where can I get one? the links are to ebay, but there is nothing about your repair kit there...

Jan

[bagpipingandy]

Hi Jan,

see link to ebay compressor kits here; bagpipingandy | eBay (http://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/bagpipingandy/m.html?_nkw=&_armrs=1&_from=&_ipg=&_trksid=p3686)

any questions just ask

regadrs

Andy

[Drsakke]

Hi again!!!!
Just came home after a 3h session of fixing the car. Did rear brake disks and pads, oil+ filter and the COMPRESSOR!!! It was quite easy to do with the compressor in place, a little fiddly and proper lighting is recommended!!! the positive thing is that the whole operation took about 30min, most of the time went in trying to remove the cover(had to saw through one of the fixing points- badly rusted nuts). Did not have to remove any pipes or connectors, just took the Cylinder/top down and to the side and pulled the piston out as far as it came. switched the piston ring and put everything back together.
WORKS A TREAT!!!!!! fast, silent and best of all, all the levels are reached and maintained.!!!!

Fantastic!!!
Sakke

[bagpipingandy]

Good work, im glad you like it :)

Best regards

Andy

[chololo]

uuuuff! it took me the best of 3 hours to read through this thread but I learned a lot!!!

Hi! My name is Chris and hello to all of you!

Andy, you've done the works and already been a lot of help to understanding the nature of Audi's air suspension and related probs.
As most others in this thread, I've had problems with my Allroad's suspension.
I have a 2.7 lit 2004 model, bought about a year ago, with 130k kilometers on it and a what appears to have been a leak on the front passenger side from the beginning!
As you described earlier, I marked a flattening of the suspension on the passenger side when parked over night at 1st och 2nd levels, often but not always.
Otherwise the thing worked fine, sometimes it took a while to get you to the 3rd och 4th level but I didn't other problems and payed little attention to the matter since the manual stated that this can happen due to sudden temperature changes
which happens often enough in Sweden!
But... the day before yesterday it couldn't lift itself back again, even the driver's side flattened after a while and the pump gave up giving me the non blinking, fault lamp...
Of course I tried a number of times but in the end I had to drive a distance with the front of the car hitting the bump stops at every "crack" of the road and I guess there is no way out but to change the bladder...
Please tell me what you make of it, can it be that I need to change both front suspensions?
The german online retailer you mentioned earlier at least gives an alternative to the really expensive swedish dealers!!

Thanks for your help
Chris

[bagpipingandy]

Hi Chris and welcome to the forum,

How is the car sitting now? All corners low?

Can you hear the compressor running?

Does the car try to lift even a small amount? try a tape measure at the wheel arch to watch if it moves

Any error lights on or only after the compressor runs?

My 1st thought is the leak is maybe too big or the compressor too weak to lift but answer the above to help us try to work out more

Regards

Andy

[chololo]

Hi Andy and thanks for the quick response!

That's my diagnose as well at the time, I think the leak became a tear...
The car lies at what appears to be level 1 at the back end and level 0 at the front... the passenger side seems somehow lower actually but both tires lie under the arches...
My recent attempts showed that it tries to lift it self to 1st level and I can hear the pump is running, a new try tomorrow with a measure will give more details.
The dashboard suspension light is blinking at the start as it tries the lift, after some time it just stays on and the pump stops.
I'll have more news tomorrow

Regards and thansk again
Chris

[bagpipingandy]

Hi Chris,Ok that's good as it is definitely just a leak, the flashing is the car realising it is too low and so it tries to lift, after 2 min's of trying the pump will stop and throw the error light on solid, if you turn the ignition off and on again the error clears and it will try again flashing, if it cannot lift after 2 or 3 attempts I can only assume the leak is very big or the compressor completely knackered (I think leak), jack the wheel up on the front left and inspect the airbag,the front right looks low only as the left is pulling it down also, I think just the one leaking airbag, don't but anything until you confirm what has the leak/hole!! :)best regardsAndy

[chololo]

Thanks again, I'll do what I can the days to come and come back to you with the results!

Regards
Chris

[chololo]

Hi Andy, it's me again!

So... my last attempt showed that the pump does make some a noise but not the one I used to hear previously, it's more like a low rattle now... and doesn't seem to get any air to the front side which is still lying on the bump stops. The rest is as we know it. The lamp stops flashing after some 1,5 - 2 min.
Being very unhappy I had to drive to the nearest car repair shop yesterday and I left it there for a checkup.
Today the repairman told me that the pump is out and that I most probably have a leak in the front... oh how I hope one of your piston rings could take care of the pump problem but to be honest I don't believe it anymore. The guy doesn't seem dishonest or something like that, we even talked about comparing prices we have on the parts tomorrow...
I know you might say that the rattle noise can be just an unfitting ring but it's really barely audible, could it sound so little if it's the piston?

Regards
Chris

[bagpipingandy]

Hi Chris, It is best to check the compressor performance based on pressure not noise, some go really noisy and rattly some not so noisy just loosing pressure everyone's description of noisy is different, but a new compressor can produce 16Bar 220Psi I think the allroad needs at least 110psi to be effective check the pressure output. As before a new ring will renew the performance of the compressor but you need to find why the front doesn't lift, I would be looking for a leak on that corner, find/fix the leak then if the pressure is also low from the compressor you either need a new compressor or a repair kit.

[Pneumatic]

as i said there is not enough to change only ring for most compressors, send the pump to Lithuania :) i will rebuild it as a new, with new cylinder, ring, valves, drain filter and if needed motor, price of complete rebuild 110eur. i can send you a rebuilded one and the old one you can send by cheapest post service. by the way there is some passenger buses going to england and other countries once a week they can transport compressor for 10euro

[bagpipingandy]

Find & fix the corner not lifting issues 1st before you buy any compressor "deals" ;) its maybe just the airline has unscrewed!! (maybe not though!!)

[chololo]

...the problem is I'm not a mechanic and although I'm quite handy I have no garage, just an open parking space in the cold and no tools! I have to work through a repair shop to get anything done!
Andy I hear you, the leak must be found first and for that I guess it's possible to connect to another external pump. It does sound weird that the pump just went out one day!
Thanks for your offer too Pneumatic but if the pump is badly damaged or worn out, I think I'd better buy a new one, to be sure for the future!
The same goes for the leak, I mean I think it better to change both front air-springs just in case this happens on the driver side a month or a year from now! Would you suggest differently Andy?

[Pneumatic]

the all air springs is going to be bad someday, not need to change the good one, it may be good lets say for another 30000km or may start leaking in 1 km. after you noticed the car is sinking after an night or hear that compresoor is working to much you cant drive any longer at all! because compressor will be running and trying to lift the car always. by the way i rebuild compressor to condition like new, if i inspect that something is worn out i can change whole parts. but usually the motors not become bad for allroad c5, sometimes need to change bearings and thats all. for a8 the motors fries sometimes because of relay issue.

[bagpipingandy]

...the problem is I'm not a mechanic and although I'm quite handy I have no garage, just an open parking space in the cold and no tools! I have to work through a repair shop to get anything done!
Andy I hear you, the leak must be found first and for that I guess it's possible to connect to another external pump. It does sound weird that the pump just went out one day!
Thanks for your offer too Pneumatic but if the pump is badly damaged or worn out, I think I'd better buy a new one, to be sure for the future!
The same goes for the leak, I mean I think it better to change both front air-springs just in case this happens on the driver side a month or a year from now! Would you suggest differently Andy?

as Pneumatic says I would just change one, the compressor "went out one day" could be the bag torn hence and impossible to inflate, remove the wheel and vissually feel/check the airbag for any holes, baddly perrished areas or anything which could be letting air out, if you can remove the wheel you can inspect the airbag

Is the compressor definetely running? can you feel it and or hear it running

regards

Andy

[Pneumatic]

the allroad c5 air bags most starts leaking on most drivible possition, usually it is 1st. if you cant inspect by hearing or looking to it, take off the wheel, put some brick under lowerest arm and lay down the car on the brick, then take some sprayer with water and soup mixed, apply sprayer on the whole air bag, then try to lift the car to 1 st position and so on, someone need to look always for bubbles. for other cars u must do different ways, like for a8 or new model of allroad you need to lift the car to hear the leaking because the air bag sits on the leaking hole and it is not leaking as standing and when driving the hole comes to side and starts leaking, and if u lift older allroad to 3rd-4th possition it will not leak at all because the gum is fat and closes hole, if the hole is very big it will leak always but at so big hole it will be hard to lift the car at all

[chololo]

Hi again to both you guys!

I had been away for a few days, saw your responses but didn't have time and pc to write back!
I'll just go through last week's events.
Before leaving I met the mechanic and pressed/asked him if we shouldn't look deeper and check the pump for its output plus lift the car to check for eventual leaks at the front air springs. He was busy at the time and so we decided that I would take the car back, order whichever parts I wanted myself and get back to him once they arrived.
Getting the car started gave me a relief as I saw it lifting for the first time to almost level one, even if just for a while before sinking again, this time the co-driver's side dragging the back right side with it. (that was last Wednesday)

Yesterday now, the unexpected happened... as was late for work and forced to go by car in whichever condition I realized that it managed to lift it self to 1st position after a couple of km and then pushed it to 2nd and got it up to the magnificent 3rd position!!!
As it seems the pump wasn't the problem... 1st and 2nd took some time, but 3rd came as easy as before and it hasn't lost a inch since. That's not to say I don't need repairs, just that I feel some relief :D
Now, because I'm just getting started with ebay and paypal and it'll take some days before I can make my order. I have decided to follow your lines and change just the right front air spring which surely has a leak.
The matches I found are these:

1. from Arnott, US Audi Allroad Quattro Front Air Ride Suspension Spring | eBay (http://www.ebay.com/itm/Audi-allroad-quattro-FRONT-AIR-RIDE-SUSPENSION-SPRING-/220703440159?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&fits=Make%3AAudi%7CModel%3AAllroad+Quattro&hash=item3362f33d1f)
2. from Arnott, Germany Audi A6 4B C5 Allroad Air Suspension Front Spring Strut | eBay (http://www.ebay.com/itm/Audi-A6-4B-C5-Allroad-Air-Suspension-Front-Spring-Strut-/400223390315?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item5d2f2c4a6b&vxp=mtr)

There is a difference in the price if you take shipping costs into account I say and as they are both supposedly from Arnott I would like your opinion! To be honest the cheaper one is attractive as a buy and the other as an image... :D

Regards Chris

[Pneumatic]

there is no surprise at all that it is standing on 3rd position and not leaking, because with all leaking air bag is the same, the hole is on the place where the air spring is working usualy on 1st position and when it goes to 3 it squeezes it, for that reason i said to check in 1st possition. all clients who buy air springs is told by me to run slow on 3rd position if needed, to reduce possibility to demage compressor, better not to drive at all. i can sell you westar air springs (similar to arnott) 280$ without shipping.
your compressor will be not good condition too because good compressor no mater hole can lift the car (if the hole is not insane big), but after driving with it, the ring becomes reheated and not touch the cylinder and when it is a little thiner the piston touch the cylinder and demages it

[chololo]

Hi again guys!

Pneumatic I get what you're saying! After fixing the leaking air spring I consider getting Andy's repair kit! On your offer, if you check the links you'll see my other options! The one will cost me 220£ with shipping and I hope to order that part.
Andy I'd really appreciate a suggestion between the two choices!

Regards
Chris

[Pneumatic]

if your compressor cylinder will have scratches you will throw away money changing only the ring it will be good only if u want to sell car quickly :).

[bagpipingandy]

Hi again guys!

Pneumatic I get what you're saying! After fixing the leaking air spring I consider getting Andy's repair kit! On your offer, if you check the links you'll see my other options! The one will cost me 220£ with shipping and I hope to order that part.
Andy I'd really appreciate a suggestion between the two choices!

Regards
Chris

Hi chris, I'm currently away on limited internet availability, but yes I would buy any of the arnot units which suits your budget, if both are arnott choose the arnott seller offering the best support, quickest shipping and least import duty,
Regards

Andy

[chololo]

Thanks a lot! Order confirmed! I'll get back to you when done :D

[chololo]

Hi everyone!
Back to report.. I had my allroad fitted with the new Arnott air spring on co-pilot's side last Friday with pleasing results.
Everything in working order, no noticeable leakage or sinking of the suspension until now on all levels!
The pump is doing it's job in good time except on rare occasions and is almost "unheard of"!
Thanks for the support Andy and Pneumatic, we made a right diagnosis I think and I managed to save 3-400 euros in repair costs!
Andy, I'm thinking of ordering your repair-kit as soon as the weather gets a bit warmer here!

Thanks again
Chris

[bagpipingandy]

Hi Chris, good job well done, that's what the forum is for :) best regards, Andy

[Drsakke]

Hi, I fitted the repair-kit for compressor and it worked a treat, the car went up really fast. But now as the weather has warmed up the compressor has gotten nooisier again and it takes ages to pump up between levels. It has happened on occasion that the compressor has run silently and worked ok but mainly not just now. The car keeps the levels while parked, compressor does not run excessively as far as I have heard and everything else seems to work OK(like adjusting height after speed, lowering and selfleveling with trailer) . I notice that sometimes after hard braking the front adjust level somewhat after getting stationary, but these adjustments are rapid (I guess it uses the pressure accumulator for this) . No lights.
Just very slow pumping, and this came quite rapidly after the winter. As said, it worked a treat the whole winter. I could not feel any great degree of scratcing in the cylinder when i changed the ring either.....
Maybe I need a new compressor after all.....

Sakke

[Pneumatic]

as i said you need not only to change ring but to check and repair much things and you need special knowledge to repair compressors. i fixed few hundred compressors and with pneumatic system intact not even one became bad, and if you drive with leaking system all compressors, doesn't matter its new or repaired it will become bad fast. if you need i can sell repaired compressor, condition like new.

[bagpipingandy]

Hi Sakke,

have a quick look at the compressor to make sure everything still looks fitted ok, check bolts/airline connections are still tight, if anything loosens it could cause a change like this, also check the air intake is fitted properly if it were to draw dirt in it will destroy anything in there, it is not very common though with over 1000 of my kits sold,

check the bolts, intake and airline connections 1st before deciding what to do.

best regards

Andy

[kevthepuss]

I have just fitted one of these repair kits to my 2003 Allroad. So far so good.

Before the repair my car was stuck sub level 1, compressor timing out or over heating, error light on dashboard etc. but no air leaks showing up with a soapy water test. Following the repair the compressor takes it up to level 4 within a couple of minutes and is noticeably quieter.

It took me about 3.5 hours all in. I am sure it can be done faster but I haven't worked under a car for about 20 years. Also, as usual, what can slow you down is rusted up threads, I sheared off one of the studs holding the protector plate and I would not have been able to get the torx bolts undone without a T30 fitting for my rachet wrench, my multi-tip screwdriver wasn't up to it.

The instructions are clear and easy to follow with good photos, although it took me a while before I realised two of the three electrical connectors are in-line cable junctions not on the compressor itself. My compressor cyclinder had no visible scratches so I just made sure it was clean before re-assembly.

[bagpipingandy]

HI kevin, many thanks for your feedback, i'm glad you liked itregardsAndy

[Drsakke]

After my troubles with slow rising 3-4 months after piston ring change I have tried to see after other faults without finding them, so I
Got the old compressor out, all the piping looks good (air intake etc) and all works well with the new compressor. Opened up the old one and obviously the old piston ring that I changed in february was all too worn and the cylinder was scored and subsequently the new ring was destroyed by this.
The new compressor hardly goes at all. Conclusion is that one should check the compressor for wear thoroughly and clean it properly.

Just one question; The car now rises automatically to level 3 after parking. Is this how it is supposed to work? (the pump does not go,the car just silently goes up directly after locking)
I see the hole for air intake in the spare wheel well, is there a filter somewhere???

All the best , and thanks
Sakke

[bagpipingandy]

Hi Sakke,

Im glad its all working well again, yes it will lift to level 3 or the last requested level, so for example if you choose level 2 it will stay at level 2 but if you select level 3 it will be at level 3 until you go faster than 50MPH then it will auto lower to 2 but drive slower than 50MPH for any period of time or park the car then it will auto raise to 3 as it was the last requested level, it just uses air from the storage tank to do this.

HOWEVER: this hole in the spare wheel well should be a filter not just a hole, I suggest checking and buying the filter as this is most likely why your last compressor will have had a damaged cylinder, it will draw in any dirt from the spare wheel well, I suggest fixing this ASAP before you ruin your brand new compressor L, any dirt will score and potentially damage the cylinder,
I will check the part no for you for the filter but use any filter type material if it is just a hole for now,

Regards

Andy

[Drsakke]

Well the car does the raising every time now. If i select L2 and drive around at L2 for any period of time and then park and lock the car , it goes up to L3( back to L2 at speed grater than 50mph).
Im not sure about the intake filter thing. Should the filter be inside the spare wheel well or on the outside with the compressor? There is a black plastic thingy on the right side of the spare wheel well (I thought that to be something else) and on the left side-front of the well there is a aperture/plastic plug with a hole, I thought this was the air intake as it is closest to the compressor. I have vacuumed the well thoroughly.

All the best
Sakke

[bagpipingandy]

Hi Sakke,

yes the filter/silencer is the black plastic thingy inside the spare wheel well thats ok then, it goes to the the intake rubber hose to the compressor, check to make sure its connected just in case

the raising to level 3 thing i think should only be if you previously selected level 3, it may even do level 4 if you select it and leave it in level 4 drive around it will Auto lower when speeds above 20/25MPH and may raise back up when parked, or drive slower than 20MPH Thats hard to do!! :)

regards

Andy

[Budgeezer]

Hey Andy, new to forum and having issues with 2001 C5 Allroad. For some reason the compressor continues to run even though the system is not losing air. This just started happening in the past couple of days. The compressor turns on and will run until I come to a stop then it will stop and it sounds like it is bleeding air from the drivers side rear area by the pump. No lights are coming on the dash it is almost as though the ECU is telling the system that it needs air even though it doesn't. The compressor is pretty loud and I'm sure it needs to rebuilt but trying to determine what is causing this situation. Your kit looks like it can help but I may have bigger issues, any thoughts?

Paul

[Drsakke]

I think you could have an issue with the relay sticking, it might also be a problem with ecu or pressure sensor somewhere. Unsure if these would cause error light in the dash though...
Best regards
Sakke

[bagpipingandy]

HI Paul, Some questions to help check things out:

Does it lift through the levels ok?
Does the error light come on at all or after when raising levels?

If no errors in normal use it resembles the pump continually trying to fill the reservoir, which is most usually a symptom of low pressure either from the compressor being weak or it could be other reasons such as the tank leaking, I don't think a stuck relay just yet (but not ruled out), for this thought I think it would be stuck on all the time,

just to check At level 1 does the car ever sink?

Also you say "bleeding air by the drivers side rear area", is this only once the car is parked and locked or is it during the pump actually running, if the car is parked and just locked this is quite normal for it to level out and vent air out the N111 valve but if its during the compressor running perhaps look at the pump further to make sure it is intact and the airlines to the tank are ok.

regards

Andy

[Budgeezer]

Thanks Andy. It will not raise to level 4. The error light does not come on. I will check level one today and see if it sinks. The bleeding of the air is not occurring when the pump is running.

[bagpipingandy]

ok, does it go up to level 3 with no error lights? when selecting level 4 does level 4 green light flash but it never reaches level 4? the error light should come on at this stage if ths is the case, but ignition off and on it should clear the error?

to check the error light works- does the suspension error light breifly light up when you turn the key on?

regards

Andy

[Budgeezer]

Thanks Andy. I just went and checked and when starting the car the error light does come on briefly. I was also able to get it to go to level to level 3 and 4 without any error lights.

[bagpipingandy]

Thanks Andy. I just went and checked and when starting the car the error light does come on briefly. I was also able to get it to go to level to level 3 and 4 without any error lights.

ok so it all seems to work ok for now, the only issue you have is the pump seems to run often, yes?, is it slow to lift a level say more than 1-2 mins?), if so a refurb kit will get it lifting quicker and should stop the compressor cycling as much to top up the air, if unsure you could do with a VCDS scan to check for codes stored and check the measuring blocks for the pressure in the system.

lets also see if it sinks parked overnight at level 1 to check for leaks, no 1 sign to weaken a compressor

Regards

Andy

[Budgeezer]

ok so it all seems to work ok for now, the only issue you have is the pump seems to run often, yes?, is it slow to lift a level say more than 1-2 mins?), if so a refurb kit will get it lifting quicker and should stop the compressor cycling as much to top up the air, if unsure you could do with a VCDS scan to check for codes stored and check the measuring blocks for the pressure in the system.

lets also see if it sinks parked overnight at level 1 to check for leaks, no 1 sign to weaken a compressor

Regards

Andy

Correct the system is working, it is just that the compressor is running more than it ever has. It takes about 1 minute to adjust to a higher level. I will park it in level 1 tonight and report back tomorrow. Again thanks for your expertise. I had a scan done the other day and it was showing that there was not enough pressure in the system, they suggested a new compressor which was $575 plus install.

[bagpipingandy]

Ok so you have had it scanned and they came up with low pressure, which points to the comressor, if there were no other codes then my refurb kit (or a new compressor should you prefer) is the thing to try next,
it cannot be that bad as it lifts through the levels but a new kit will refurbish it and get it working again like it should :)

regards

Andy

[WhiteyAR]

Hi, I've just ordered Andy's compressor kit for my 05 Allroad 4.2 with 99K on the clock. The compressor is a bit slow but fine with no faults but I do have a leaking front O/S air spring, which I will be getting replaced shortly with an Arnott unit. Does anyone know how long I should expect the labour time to be to replace just the air spring? I will do the compressor kit myself. Thanks, Andrew.

[steben]

Hi, I've just ordered Andy's compressor kit for my 05 Allroad 4.2 with 99K on the clock. The compressor is a bit slow but fine with no faults but I do have a leaking front O/S air spring, which I will be getting replaced shortly with an Arnott unit. Does anyone know how long I should expect the labour time to be to replace just the air spring? I will do the compressor kit myself. Thanks, Andrew.
Hi, the last 2 years I have replaced both front air bags as the car was dropping more and more. The leaky side that little bit lower. The compressor has been noisy since the first bag was changed and has recently got a lot worse, struggling to maintain level 1 then timing out. Today I changed the compressor ring and WOW , it raises like never before. First time on level 3 for a year or so and quiet. Get an upper arm pinch bolt from Audi before starting the bag job as its a bugger to get out and you will probably damage the old one and the job should take 1 to 2 hrs depending on facilities and ease of which the above bolt comes out ! The compressor again 1 hr if all bolts undo ok, the cover plate bolts I had to cut off and when I replaced it i used self tappers and the two compressor bolts were really tight , careful. Good luck and well worth doing . Mark.

[Plaything]

Fabulous way to fix the noisy motor, If i get mine running again (see my thread) i might get one for the garage, as a spare ready for when the next thing goes wrong.

[flatknackered]

Hi guys, I've just acquired an allroad, 2002 model with 135K km on the clock.

I've read this thread, and a bunch of others; I'd be grateful for some online diagnosis now :-)

Sometimes, the air compressor lifts the car to level 2. Other times, after putting the key in the ignition, it can't (orange light on dash; blinking green low setting light).

Where it has lifted the car, by next morning the rear end has sagged right down (bump stops). But there is still plenty of room at the front between the wheel and the wheel arch.

From the symptoms, does it sound like the problem is a leak with one or both of the rear air bags? And that the front ones are fine?

The closest dealer is 150km away, so I can't check for codes. If there is a good chance the problem would be fixed by a pair of arnott rears, I'd consider buying a pair to take with me to have them fit.

If the leak isn't in the rear airbags, what is the next most likely fix? N111 solenoid valve(s)?

If I can get it to lift again, I'll try to observe whether the left rear or right rear deflates first; hopefully with some soapy water. But right now, I'm not confident the car will lift to level 1 or 2 again :-(

Once I'm confident of a fix for the leak, I'll buy Andy's kit. Otherwise, I think I'll get the Blauparts conversion kit, though that would be a bit of a pity.

thanks .. Jason

[bagpipingandy]

Hi, it sounds like air bags leaking but you can perform some checks 1st to help you prove or disprove,

can you park the car high, say at level 3 or 4?, if it doesnt sink at level 3 or 4 but sinks at level 1 this again points to the airbags, if it sinks all the time at any level it could be a o-ring seal or sensor,

also: park at level 1 in "jack mode" (press and hold up and down arrow for 5+ secs) this will disable the electrics and again if it sinks overnight it is an air leak not a sensor-electrical issue, and whatever corner is on the bump stops has the leak. (hopefully only 1 corner!!) :)


to finally prove a leak (if the above works):

gets lots of soapy water, jack up and rub all over the suspect airbags, then and park at level 1 then jack up and look for bubbles, bubbles = leaks but check where the bubbles are, if the rubber air bag then it needs changed, sometimes the rears leak around the shock.

the flashing light is the car telling you it is lower than level 1 (obvious!! as it is on the bump stops) it will try to lift it for 2 mins, some times it will succeed, other times you may need to turn ignition off and on again straight away to get it to build up enough pressure (repair kit to fix this ;)!! )

to protect the lifetime of the compressor try to drive at 2 & 3 as if a leak it will make your compressor work hard when driving at level 1, if a leak can be proved fix ASAP

best regards

Andy

[flatknackered]

Thanks Andy for your quick and useful reply.

I got it up to level 4 :-)



some times it will succeed, other times you may need to turn ignition off and on again straight away to get it to build up enough pressure (repair kit to fix this ;)!! )


I had to turn the ignition off and on again maybe three times to reach level 1, then once or twice for each succeeding level! But got there in the end...

Needless to say I've ordered the repair kit :-)



can you park the car high, say at level 3 or 4?, if it doesnt sink at level 3 or 4 but sinks at level 1 this again points to the airbags, if it sinks all the time at any level it could be a o-ring seal or sensor,


I parked it on level 4, and after 6 hours, it had sunk to a reported level 3. I measured 1cm height lost at the front wheel arch, and 3 or 4 cm at the rear (which is a bit more lower than what I measured when it was at level 3, six hours earlier).

I'm proceeding with your other suggested tests, but in the meantime does that change over 6 hours suggest anything?




gets lots of soapy water, jack up and rub all over the suspect airbags, then and park at level 1 then jack up and look for bubbles, bubbles = leaks but check where the bubbles are, if the rubber air bag then it needs changed, sometimes the rears leak around the shock.


Are you aware of a video, or a detailed explanation of this procedure somewhere on the net? To test a rear wheel air bag, I assume I need to remove the wheel; but if I do that, there's no weight on that corner air bag, but I guess the pressure inside it is still enough for any leak to bubble...

thanks .. Jason

[bagpipingandy]

Ok, sounds like a leak at the rear ok

when at level 4 try putting jack mode on, my thinking is it "may" also lower to 3 to bank air pressure but if in jack mode the electrics are dissabled and will only sink with a leak, if sinks at level 4 in jack mode this could be an o-ring seal leak around the shock, or a large air bladder leak. if in jack mode, it sinks fast at level 1 and slow at 4 this make me think its the airbag, soapy water should confirm this.

can you hear air escaping when at level 1? how quick does it sink when left at level 1?

the soapy water test, not ussually required to remove wheel, jack it up to give access to the rubber airbag (wheel still on) bucket of soapy water and rub all over the rubber airbladder, plenty bubbles!! :), ussually mainly lower half and around the back too, then you MUST sit wheel on the ground and move/park it so its sitting at level 1, it is not pressure which makes it leak it is due to the position/form of the rubber bend at the bottom of the bag making the cracks open (if the airbag), you could simulate level 1 with the wheel off and a jack but be carefull if attempting that!!!,

the compressor is definetely weak if it takes that many attempts!!,

best regards

Andy

[flatknackered]

Audi allroad front air spring leak test - YouTube (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=r559H78n-E4) is interesting.

[bagpipingandy]

Hi, yes this is a good video, did you notice at 50-60 seconds when he adds more air the leaking stops, this is as I mention the leak occurs due to the position of the cracks in the airbag, not the pressure, these cracks are usually the lower endof the rubber airbag and leak when near the bend in the botton of the bag due to them being open with the rubber bending up under the shock, but when he adds more air the bag gets longer (car lifts) the crack move along to the flatter section and close, this is why when looking for leaks with soapy water you must park at level 1 to re-create the cracks sitting as low as possible,

best regards

Andy

[flatknackered]

Hi Andy

I tried the soapy water test, but it was inconclusive. Its pretty hard to get soap water all over those rear airbags, and it dries fairly quickly. I'll have another go at it tomorrow.

I did the jack mode test, and again, it was both sides at the rear which went to bump stops.

So (besides the compressor your kit will fix), it could be the rear airbags, o-ring seals, pressure fittings or solenoids?

Audi Allroad Suspension – Allroad Air Suspension Conversion Kit (http://www.blauparts.com/audi_allroad_suspension/audi_allroad_airbag_suspension_conversion_kit.html ) says:

O-Ring Mating Area Air Leaks There are several o-rings at the bottom and top of the shock absorbers and air bags. Over time, these o-rings may shrink and cause air to leak during suspension compression.

Plastic Air Hose(s) Pressure Fitting Area Air Leaks Over time, the plastic tubing that runs thru the pressure fittings may shrink, become brittle, or lose pliability. During air system operation the pressure fitting isn't able to hold the plastic air tubing properly, causing a leak. These leaks are hard to find and usually occur near the connection points where the air lines meet the air bags.

Audi Allroad Air Suspension Conversion Kit (-AUDI-4) | Strutmasters.com (http://www.strutmasters.com/Audi-Allroad-Air-Suspension-Conversion-Kit-p/-audi-4.htm) says:

Solenoid: The solenoid regulates the air pressure for each air spring. Solenoids start to leak as they wear out causing your suspension to sag or to lean. This will cause the ride height sensor to send a signal to activate the compressor in an attempt to inflate the air suspension and level out the vehicle.

I'm guessing at the moment that my leaks are in the o-rings / pressure fittings / solenoids, rather than the bags themselves. Assuming this is correct, how much labour is involved in replacing these things? Is it much the same as replacing the air bags? (in which case I might get a pair of Arnotts put on at the same time).

Lots of questions, I know, but thanks for any input you have time to provide :-)

[bagpipingandy]

HI, ok, so its a leak if you are parking in "jack" mode and it sinks, park at level 4 in "jack" mode it may take a few attempts to get it up, so to speak, but if it doesnt sink at level 4 in "jack" mode this would point to an airbag not a seal,
airbags or seals would be the 1st 2 on my hit list, and you would change both airbags and o-rings when fitting a new airbag anyway but we need to be sure it is the airbag "area" and not else where the leaking.

the valves/solenoids tend to stick rather than leak but not impossible, if it sinks in jack mode at level 1 but does not sink at level 4 in jack mode its the airbags

also try soapy water on the connections at the valve block, maybe someone has been there before you as this car is new to you.

it is hard to trace an airbag leak, you must re-create the car sitting at level 1 for the bubbles to form if it is an airbag

sorry not much help just giving ideas, you still need to try a few things to be certain, :)

regadrs

Andy

[flatknackered]

Thanks Andy.

The plot thickens ... overnight I had left it in jack mode on level 3. Today, the rear was down at bump stops, no surprises there ... but when I took it out of jack mode, air came from some store somewhere (ie the compressor wasn't running), and immediately lifted the rear to level 1!

I thought jack mode meant no electronics or anything fancy ie air should not have moved from the rear bags to wherever it was stored? If this is so, then maybe it points to the issue (ie some leaky valve between the rear bags and the store)?

I've improved my soapy water technique: this time I used a windex spray bottle, with bubble bath mix. So much easier to spray than to try to apply with a sponge! I'm now pretty confident the air bags themselves aren't leaking.

Just found "Pneumatic suspension system Part 1 Selfl evelling suspension in the Audi A6 Design and Function Self-study programme 242" - 61 pages - just what the doctor ordered.

http://www.volkspage.net/technik/ssp/ssp/SSP_242.pdf

and Part 2: http://www.volkspage.net/technik/ssp/ssp/SSP_243.pdf

On a quick glance at these (much looking forward to reading more carefully), maybe the explanation is that the pressure accumulator already had air in it (not because of it leaked back into there), and this was used to raise the vehicle this morning.

[ertatta]

andy,
i've been looking for u the last 2 weeks since i heard about your rebuild kit on one of the U.S. forums. i also just found this and am wondering if you're responsible for this: Audi Allroad C5 A8 Q7 Wabco Air Suspension Compressor Piston Ring Repair Fix Kit | eBay (http://www.ebay.com/itm/151062196437?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649)

if not, what are your thoughts on this? my issue is time as i've been borrowing a car from a family member for the last week and really need to get my AR up and running ASAP. it would probably take 2 weeks to get your kit in from the UK.

[ertatta]

since u seem to have enlightened many in this thread, i was wondering if u can lend me some of your wisdom here as well. i have a new F/L air spring on it's way from arnott. so hoping to have that installed by tomorrow morning.
this is what i'm getting from VagCom:

Address 34: Level Control Labels: 4Z7-907-553.lbl
Part No: 4Z7 907 553 B
Component: - 2C1A1 X031
Coding: 25500
Shop #: WSC 09999
VCID: 449980CC54587F38443
4 Faults Found:
01400 - Suspension Level Control
11-10 - Control Limit Not Reached - Intermittent
01316 - ABS Control Module
79-10 - Please Check Fault Codes - Intermittent
01437 - Control Position not Learned
35-00 - -
01400 - Suspension Level Control
53-10 - Supply Voltage Too Low - Intermittent


Address 55: Xenon Range Labels: 4Z7-907-357.lbl
Part No: 4Z7 907 357
Component: dynamische LWR D05
Coding: 00030
Shop #: WSC 02325
VCID: 041940CC14D8BF38043
2 Faults Found:
00776 - Level Control System Sensor; Left Front (G78)
28-00 - Short to Plus
00532 - Supply Voltage B+
07-00 - Signal too Low


which do u think that it is, a compressor, level sensor, ecu, or valve block issue?

[ertatta]

just realized this seller on ebay is from the UK as well. they listed this item on ebay U.S., so i assumed it was on this side. sorry

[bagpipingandy]

Hi ertatta,

what is your suspension symptoms?

reading your fault codes, the compressor pressure is possible but I recommend to clear these faults as some state intermittent and scan to see if any faults come back, you also need to go the ABS module and scan it there seems to be a fault there, scan the abs save and clear that code too,

it is possible you have weak compressor but I suggest trying to clear codes 1st, if only the 01400 code shows up after a while this is the compressor weak and need a refurbish or replaced

you also have code: 01437 - Control Position not Learned, which suggests you may have tried to calibrate the system which if you have with a weak compressor it will lock out and give this code, so describe your symptoms, clear all codes and tell us what codes come back.

I hope this helps,

as for buying the compressor kit, this is the best kit to buy!! ;) (all others are copies!!!) :(

http://dsa.ebay.co.uk/sch/bagpipingandy/m.html?_nkw=&_armrs=1&_from=&_ipg=&_trksid=p3984

any questions just ask

best regards

Andy

[ertatta]

yes andy,
i did have a leaky front/left arnott air spring and the compressor was certainly working over time. got to a point where it was riding on bump stops and i was getting an EPC(i believe) warning on the dash along with the typical indictor(up arrow). anyways when i have car jacked up/wheel removed, the compressor sends air to the leaky bag and fills it up, but doesn't respond when it's off jacks/wheels on ground. the rear bags get filled with air as normal, but both fronts aren't getting anything when on ground.
arnott guys told me to try to calibrate ride heighth using Vagcom, but it didn't respond to the commands in any way. i've disconnected battery and also cleared codes at least 3 times and am having no success.
the abs fault i noticed after starting to work on removal of the faulty arnott bag. so i'm thinking it has something to do with when i was repositioning the jack to get that darn bottom bolt out that holds the bottom of the shock in place. btw, arnott sent a new air shock to replace it under warranty.. great customer service!
i'd like to order your kit asap! any idea what my total bill would be to Texas? i really appreciate your knowledge andy!

[bagpipingandy]

Hi, when you log on to ebay it should show the costs to your area, but for reference the kit is £25GBP + £4GBP postage to USA.

However I cannot be sure it will fix all your problems immediately, I have some questions you need to answer to help us understand more:

with the codes cleared what codes come back?

switching the ignition on what does the suspension error light do? Flash on solid or other

how does the car sit? is it level, or back ok front on bump stops, or other?

are both front airbags replaced? if they leak you will find they don't lift when on bump stops but them may seem to inflate on the jack.

I think you have a link of problems, you have had a leak at the front so compressor is weak, is the leak repaired? you may have tried to calibrate it it haven't completed and so locked the system with the error code, we need to methodically get it back together, don't just throw parts at it, if you have VCDS I also suggest taking screen grabs of all the measuring blocks to see what each wheel level sensor is reading, we need to step by step to get a better idea, 1st step is tell us the fault codes, by this I mean clear all codes and read them immediately do any come back?


let us know the answers to above and a screen shot of the level sensors

best regards

Andy

[ertatta]

[QUOTE=bagpipingandy;850567]Hi, when you log on to ebay it should show the costs to your area, but for reference the kit is £25GBP + £4GBP postage to USA.

However I cannot be sure it will fix all your problems immediately, I have some questions you need to answer to help us understand more:

with the codes cleared what codes come back?

OCTOBER 3 SCAN:-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 34: Level Control Labels: 4Z7-907-553.lbl
Part No: 4Z7 907 553 B
Component: - 2C1A1 X031
Coding: 25500
Shop #: WSC 09999
VCID: 449980CC54587F38443
5 Faults Found:
01400 - Suspension Level Control
11-10 - Control Limit Not Reached - Intermittent
01772 - Signal from Level Control Pressure Sensor (G291)
27-10 - Implausible Signal - Intermittent
01577 - Turn-Off due to Over-Temp
35-10 - - - Intermittent
01400 - Suspension Level Control
08-10 - Control Limit Surpassed - Intermittent
01780 - Sensor for Vehicle Leveling
04-10 - Mechanical Malfunction - Intermittent

Address 55: Xenon Range Labels: 4Z7-907-357.lbl
Part No: 4Z7 907 357
Component: dynamische LWR D05
Coding: 00030
Shop #: WSC 02325
VCID: 041940CC14D8BF38043
1 Fault Found:
00776 - Level Control System Sensor; Left Front (G78)
28-00 - Short to Plus

[ertatta]

OCTOBER 10 SCAN:----------------------------------------


Address 34: Level Control Labels: 4Z7-907-553.lbl
Part No: 4Z7 907 553 B
Component: - 2C1A1 X031
Coding: 25500
Shop #: WSC 09999
VCID: 449980CC54587F38443
4 Faults Found:
01400 - Suspension Level Control
11-10 - Control Limit Not Reached - Intermittent
01316 - ABS Control Module
79-10 - Please Check Fault Codes - Intermittent
01437 - Control Position not Learned
35-00 - -
01400 - Suspension Level Control
53-10 - Supply Voltage Too Low - Intermittent


Address 55: Xenon Range Labels: 4Z7-907-357.lbl
Part No: 4Z7 907 357
Component: dynamische LWR D05
Coding: 00030
Shop #: WSC 02325
VCID: 041940CC14D8BF38043
2 Faults Found:
00776 - Level Control System Sensor; Left Front (G78)
28-00 - Short to Plus
00532 - Supply Voltage B+
07-00 - Signal too Low

[ertatta]

switching the ignition on what does the suspension error light do? Flash on solid or other

as of the other day when scanning(oct 10th), the light was solid



how does the car sit? is it level, or back ok front on bump stops, or other?

before i took off the the f/L air spring, front was on bump stops & back was up at normal level with bags inflated fine.



are both front airbags replaced? if they leak you will find they don't lift when on bump stops but them may seem to inflate on the jack.

just recieved replacement f/L air spring from arnott and hope to have it installed tomorrow. f/R was replaced under warranty in august



I think you have a link of problems, you have had a leak at the front so compressor is weak, is the leak repaired? you may have tried to calibrate it it haven't completed and so locked the system with the error code, we need to methodically get it back together, don't just throw parts at it, if you have VCDS I also suggest taking screen grabs of all the measuring blocks to see what each wheel level sensor is reading, we need to step by step to get a better idea, 1st step is tell us the fault codes, by this I mean clear all codes and read them immediately do any come back?

arnott guys told me to try to calibrate ride heighth using Vagcom, but it didn't respond to the commands in any way. i've disconnected battery and also cleared codes at least 3 times and am having no success.

[bagpipingandy]

Ok, so these 4 codes come back:

01400 - Suspension Level Control
11-10 - Control Limit Not Reached - Intermittent
01316 - ABS Control Module
9-10 - Please Check Fault Codes - Intermittent
01437 - Control Position not Learned
35-00 - -
01400 - Suspension Level Control
53-10 - Supply Voltage Too Low - Intermittent

was the engine running when these codes were read? why the low supply voltage?
what is the ABS fault code?

the 01437 - Control Position not Learned will cause issues when you calibrate it there must be a certain sequence of events:
some basics:
the car must be able to get to level 2, if it cannot achieve this, game over it cannot complete and throws this error, things preventing it getting to level 2 typically could be a weak compressor or level sensor issue or system issue, we can see many codes ABS or low voltage so it my not just be a weak compressor issue here. try clearing and reading the codes with the engine running to eliminate a flat battery,

have you cleared and read the codes from the Xenon range as it states the front left level sensor is open or short to ground?? this would cause all sorts of issues, clear these codes and re-read, if this stays open or short to ground I have no idea why the level control module does not show this code but it is your starting point if this code does not clear.

so the idea is to eliminate and fix as many codes as possible, you should then be left with the 01437 - Control Position not Learned which will mean re-calibrating but not before you fix the level sensor, once it can lift to level 2 then try the calibration process, I think you purchased the compressor kit today so its on its way to you but it will only renew the compression you need to look further at the other codes, a look through the measuring blocks may shed some light on what the level sensors are reading if the front left is open or short to ground it will have no reaing and that needs fixed, clear all codes in module 34 and 55 and re-read

best regards

Andy

[bagpipingandy]

switching the ignition on what does the suspension error light do? Flash on solid or other

as of the other day when scanning(oct 10th), the light was solid



how does the car sit? is it level, or back ok front on bump stops, or other?

before i took off the the f/L air spring, front was on bump stops & back was up at normal level with bags inflated fine.



are both front airbags replaced? if they leak you will find they don't lift when on bump stops but them may seem to inflate on the jack.

just recieved replacement f/L air spring from arnott and hope to have it installed tomorrow. f/R was replaced under warranty in august



I think you have a link of problems, you have had a leak at the front so compressor is weak, is the leak repaired? you may have tried to calibrate it it haven't completed and so locked the system with the error code, we need to methodically get it back together, don't just throw parts at it, if you have VCDS I also suggest taking screen grabs of all the measuring blocks to see what each wheel level sensor is reading, we need to step by step to get a better idea, 1st step is tell us the fault codes, by this I mean clear all codes and read them immediately do any come back?

arnott guys told me to try to calibrate ride heighth using Vagcom, but it didn't respond to the commands in any way. i've disconnected battery and also cleared codes at least 3 times and am having no success.







OK, the error on solid needs fixed, this is a permanent problem which will stop the system operating. I would start with module 34 and check that level sensor code if is stays open short to ground insect the front left level sensor,

regards

Andy

[acksaccount]

Hi,

I am having an unusual problem regarding my air suspension on my 02 audi allroad c5 2.7t.
I have replaced the rings on the compressor and fixed the left hand front level sensor.

The suspension is in good nick apart from when it is raised to the top setting the car is lop sided.
I have calibrated it several times using VCDS but it still does it.
I have also scanned the control module and nothing comes up.

could it still be the pressure sensor module even though its not giving an error?

cheers

Aaron

[bagpipingandy]

Hi Aaron

what corner is sitting lowest, I suspect it is the Front Left is it?

If it is the front left is it always at the wrong level, through level 1, 2, 3 & 4?

has it always done this or only since changing the level sensor?

does the calibration process actually complete OK?

Any error light on?

any codes at all with VCDS?

go to module 34 > measuring blocks and go through the groups to look at the level sensors signals to see what the values are for anything unusual,

My 1st guess: (I like a guess!!) would be if no errors, and the car sits level at level 2, if you have fitted the level sensor backwards it will read upside down and give you this kind of scenario, check the level sensor is fitted with the arm pointing the correct way, check measuring blocks to see if lifting the car makes the level sensor value move the correct way same as the other corners. value should go in a +ve direction when the car wheel arch is lifted

regards

Andy

[Phutters]

Oh for a crystal ball Andy, eh?

If you'd negotiated £1 a view for this thread before you started it, you'd be sitting on a beach in the Bahamas sipping Dairaquis at the moment :cool:

[ertatta]

Aaron,
very curious as to what exactly involved fixing your level sensor? I suspect I could also have an issue there as well, but how did u determine this and how was it resolved?

[bagpipingandy]

Oh for a crystal ball Andy, eh?

If you'd negotiated £1 a view for this thread before you started it, you'd be sitting on a beach in the Bahamas sipping Dairaquis at the moment :cool:

Hee, hee if only we had thought of that!! no bahamas though it still wouldnt cover the cost of running an allroad!! ;)


Aaron,
very curious as to what exactly involved fixing your level sensor? I suspect I could also have an issue there as well, but how did u determine this and how was it resolved?

Ertatta, i assume you still get the level sensor error code?, you could swap it with another sensor from another corner to see if the fault moves with it if so then replacing it would be the only solution

regards

Andy

[ertatta]

andy, i've finally had the time to get the replacement arnott air spring installed but haven't got around to the compressor rebuild kit u sent a while back. so how do i go about getting out of this "failed" ride height calibration state that i am locked into. the orange up arrow is still displayed on the dash and when i try to enter values for the different channels, i get "error" for the various channels. not sure why the arnott tech guy had me do this procedure when he knew i had the front wheel off and the car sitting on bump stops. this led to not being able to complete the calibration, which is why i believe everything is locked up and not responding.
where do i go from here in resolving this with my vagcom? thanku for your support andy!

[bagpipingandy]

Hi Ertatta,
confirm is the error light on constantly and what are the fault codes on module 34 Today?

to do the calibration you need no existing faults (appart from maybe your 01437 - Control Position not Learned)

also check module 55 as it last told you you have a faulty level sensor (00776 - Level Control System Sensor; Left Front (G78) )
EVERYTHING needs to work before caryinging out the calibration,

when you have tried to start the calibration previously what happens? the compressor should run and it should try to lift to level 2 does it do this? does the compressor run?

if the compressor runs ok but it does not get to level 2 this would be a suspect weak compressor which the kit will fix, but i recommend dont fit it until you confirm there are no other problems, level sensors and so on, 1 step at a time? :) if no errors we then want to clarify if the compressor is actually runnning.

so:

check for faults in 34 and 55, if no codes other than 01437 then try calibration procedure WITH wheels on the ground!! :)
when you start the procedure the compressor should run it should try to lift to level 2, if the compressor runs ok but it does not get to level 2 it will time out and lock the procedure, ONLY if the comrpessor does run but no level 2 i would then fit the kit and try the procedure again.

if no compressor running then we are looking at fuses, relay, compressor motor, or wiring to get it working

best regards

Andy

[ertatta]

hi ertatta,
confirm is the error light on constantly and what are the fault codes on module 34 today?

-error light is constant
-address 34: Level control labels: 4z7-907-553.lbl part no: 4z7 907 553 b
component: - 2c1a1 x031
coding: 25500
shop #: Wsc 09999
vcid: 449980cc54587f3ef0b-515a
3 faults found:
01400 - suspension level control
53-10 - supply voltage too low - intermittent
01400 - suspension level control
08-10 - control limit surpassed - intermittent
01437 - control position not learned
35-00 - -


to do the calibration you need no existing faults (appart from maybe your 01437 - control position not learned)

also check module 55 as it last told you you have a faulty level sensor (00776 - level control system sensor; left front (g78) )
everything needs to work before caryinging out the calibration,

-address 55: Xenon range labels: 4z7-907-357.lbl part no: 4z7 907 357
component: Dynamische lwr d05
coding: 00030
shop #: Wsc 02325
vcid: 041940cc14d8bf3eb0b-4b64
2 faults found:
00776 - level control system sensor; left front (g78)
28-10 - short to plus - intermittent
00532 - supply voltage b+
07-10 - signal too low - intermittent

when you have tried to start the calibration previously what happens? The compressor should run and it should try to lift to level 2 does it do this? Does the compressor run?

-unfornuately yesterday i tried this procedure twice and the compressor is not running in response. It did run a couple weeks ago before i tried this calibration procedure and the rear bags were filled. Did this procedure somehow lock it out from running? The level buttons do flash for 15 sec but i don't here compressor or any change of level.

If the compressor runs ok but it does not get to level 2 this would be a suspect weak compressor which the kit will fix, but i recommend dont fit it until you confirm there are no other problems, level sensors and so on, 1 step at a time? :) if no errors we then want to clarify if the compressor is actually runnning.

-would the failing air spring cause damage to the level sensors or other electronics that are showing up in the vagcom scan?
so:

Check for faults in 34 and 55, if no codes other than 01437 then try calibration procedure with wheels on the ground!! :)
when you start the procedure the compressor should run it should try to lift to level 2, if the compressor runs ok but it does not get to level 2 it will time out and lock the procedure, only if the comrpessor does run but no level 2 i would then fit the kit and try the procedure again.

-sadly i'm not even getting to this point, so where might u suggest i start in resolving these errors?

If no compressor running then we are looking at fuses, relay, compressor motor, or wiring to get it working

best regards

andy

[bagpipingandy]

Hi Ertatta,

STEP 1:
are these codes cleared and then re-read today? your post earlier shows Open or short codes now they say intermittent? I would expect some to go away if they were cleared today, if not please clear codes and then re-read them and post them up

STEP 2:
is the battery weak lower than 12V? why the low voltage errors, may be a red herring but, again try clearing and reading codes with the car running?

STEP 3:
the 00776 code in module 55 points to a level sensor issue, clear the codes if it comes back then
see link: 00776 - Ross-Tech Wiki (http://wiki.ross-tech.com/wiki/index.php/00776)

to have a look at the level sensor go to module 34 go to measuring blocks and go to group 004 what do the level sensor values show? looking for a bad reading on the front LH,

Lift the car (slightly) on each corner to see if the values move +ve when lifting the corner up. if the front Left doesn't behave it needs fixing, either the sensor or the wiring to it.

a failing air spring should not damage the level sensor but someone replacing an airspring may damaged it accidentaly, check the level sensors function as per step 3 above.

I would hope/expect only to be left with the 01437 code

report back what you find then we can try the next steps!! :)


regards

Andy

[ertatta]

hi ertatta,

step 1:
Are these codes cleared and then re-read today? Your post earlier shows open or short codes now they say intermittent? I would expect some to go away if they were cleared today, if not please clear codes and then re-read them and post them up

-this was the 1st scan from yesterday without engine running. And yes the battery has been comprised over the course of a month without much usage. The scan i posted earlier today was done 2 hrs later after the car had been running for 30 min or so. Should i purchase a new battery?

address 34: Level control labels: 4z7-907-553.lbl
part no: 4z7 907 553 b
component: - 2c1a1 x031
coding: 25500
shop #: Wsc 09999
vcid: 449980cc54587f3ef0b-51d0
3 faults found:
01400 - suspension level control
53-10 - supply voltage too low - intermittent
01400 - suspension level control
08-00 - control limit surpassed
01437 - control position not learned
35-00 - -

step 2:
Is the battery weak lower than 12v? Why the low voltage errors, may be a red herring but, again try clearing and reading codes with the car running?

Step 3:
The 00776 code in module 55 points to a level sensor issue, clear the codes if it comes back then
see link: 00776 - ross-tech wiki (http://wiki.ross-tech.com/wiki/index.php/00776)

to have a look at the level sensor go to module 34 go to measuring blocks and go to group 004 what do the level sensor values show? Looking for a bad reading on the front lh,

lift the car (slightly) on each corner to see if the values move +ve when lifting the corner up. If the front left doesn't behave it needs fixing, either the sensor or the wiring to it.

A failing air spring should not damage the level sensor but someone replacing an airspring may damaged it accidentaly, check the level sensors function as per step 3 above.

I would hope/expect only to be left with the 01437 code

report back what you find then we can try the next steps!! :)

- i'll go out and try this and report back in the next hour or so. Thanku!


Regards

andy

[ertatta]

andy,
vag sans from yesterday evening and this morning come up with the same results. the same 3 faults under module 34. where do i start in regards to checking out the wiring related to the ride height sensors or whatever else might be causing this?
thanku

[ertatta]

22882

[bagpipingandy]

andy,
vag sans from yesterday evening and this morning come up with the same results. the same 3 faults under module 34. where do i start in regards to checking out the wiring related to the ride height sensors or whatever else might be causing this?
thanku

read and follow STEP 3 Above :)

regards

Andy

[Al'saudi]

Heybagpipingandy can you help please?
Ive got a 2001 allroad, the suspension was leaning over (down on the o/s) and i got told that the front airbag was faulty! I replaced this and the car will not level out still. So ive had the fault codes read and only get 'Control position not learned' as a fault. I have undone the pipes from the distribution valve and inflated each corner with an airline so no issues on the air side, ive had a kit from you on ebay and the pump runs fine from a outside power source! When everything is connectedI get no power to the pump and of course no air to the airbags. Ive checked all the fuses and none blown. Do you have any idea where the pump relay is so I can test that? or is it possible that the suspension ecu has gone?
Many thanks for any help:-)

[bagpipingandy]

Heybagpipingandy can you help please?
Ive got a 2001 allroad, the suspension was leaning over (down on the o/s) and i got told that the front airbag was faulty! I replaced this and the car will not level out still. So ive had the fault codes read and only get 'Control position not learned' as a fault. I have undone the pipes from the distribution valve and inflated each corner with an airline so no issues on the air side, ive had a kit from you on ebay and the pump runs fine from a outside power source! When everything is connectedI get no power to the pump and of course no air to the airbags. Ive checked all the fuses and none blown. Do you have any idea where the pump relay is so I can test that? or is it possible that the suspension ecu has gone?
Many thanks for any help:-)

Hi, Al'saudi
Is the suspension error light on?
is there any air in any corner?

Double check the fault codes, If ONLY "01437 - control position not learned" appears try a calibration, see link; 01437 - Ross-Tech Wiki (http://wiki.ross-tech.com/wiki/index.php/01437)

If another fault code exists let us know what it is you need to fix all other faults before attempting the calibration.

the compressor relay is under the steering wheel in the 8 point relay carrier in where the compressor 40AMP fuse is, the compressor will not work until you clear the error light, so I don't think it will be the relay, if the only fault is control position not learned then try a calibration using VCDS.

there is also a filling procedure somewhere, if you have no air what-so-ever in the system, but its a while since I have seen it, it may be worth a try if your system is empty

regards

Andy

[Al'saudi]

Hi, Al'saudi
Is the suspension error light on?
is there any air in any corner?

Double check the fault codes, If ONLY "01437 - control position not learned" appears try a calibration, see link; 01437 - Ross-Tech Wiki (http://wiki.ross-tech.com/wiki/index.php/01437)

If another fault code exists let us know what it is you need to fix all other faults before attempting the calibration.

the compressor relay is under the steering wheel in the 8 point relay carrier in where the compressor 40AMP fuse is, the compressor will not work until you clear the error light, so I don't think it will be the relay, if the only fault is control position not learned then try a calibration using VCDS.

there is also a filling procedure somewhere, if you have no air what-so-ever in the system, but its a while since I have seen it, it may be worth a try if your system is empty

regards

Andy[/QUOTE]

Hi, yes the suspension light is on and the only fault is the control position not learned with no other faults.
Is it possible to recalibrate with a snap on verdict??

[bagpipingandy]

Affraid I cannot help you there, Im not sure about the snap on scanner, but I would recommend a scan 1st with VCDS too, just to make sure there are no other codes in module 34, once you have the vcds get it calibrated if only 01437 shows up with VCDS :)

regards

Andy

[ertatta]

Ok Andy, I did clear the code in module 55 and it doesn't seem to return so I think we are good there as I don't currently have error there.
i do keep getting the two 01400 codes returning along with 01437 in module 34 after multiple times of clearing.
i'll get back to u with a screen shot of "measuring blocks" in a couple min.

[ertatta]

22939

[Al'saudi]

Hi Andy, just to say yes the snap on verdict does do it and it did cure the problem many thanks for your help

[bagpipingandy]

Hi Andy, just to say yes the snap on verdict does do it and it did cure the problem many thanks for your help
Nice one !! :)

good job, regards

Andy

[bagpipingandy]

Ok Andy, I did clear the code in module 55 and it doesn't seem to return so I think we are good there as I don't currently have error there.
i do keep getting the two 01400 codes returning along with 01437 in module 34 after multiple times of clearing.
i'll get back to u with a screen shot of "measuring blocks" in a couple min.

Ok that's quite good but bad news is your measuring block are empty?? that's not good, in group 1, 2 & 3 (make sure you click "GO!" for each one) you should get all 4 windows in each group to show values, you are getting nothing??

Try another module say engine, and measuring block to see if you get values in the 1st 3 groups, to make sure your software and cable is working, then if still nothing in the measuring blocks of module 34 is must be either wiring or a goosed ECU, you could try the ECU on a radiator (or warm place) for the evening and try it again the next day to see if it can read the measuring blocks, this looks like the problem and maybe an ECU issue, I assume VCDS connects ok when you go to module 34?

regards

Andy

[ertatta]

Ok my friend, sorry bout taking so long to respond! U really have been G-d sent and your wisdom on these matters will always be appreciated.
I finally got around yesterday to raising the car on wood blocks at all 4 corners about 3". Low and behold after clearing codes on 34, I went to check "measuring blocks" and finally had values for the 3 groups. Then went about starting the calibration and after raising the channel value to 1, I heard the compressor kick on after 6 weeks of NO LUCK. The car leveled off at what seems to be level 2 but won't go up anymore than that. Car drove great but I still have the level error light on in the dash. So now that the car is driveable, what would the best way of getting out of this "frozen" actual level 2 state?
thanku Andy and at least I know that with your kit I can breath new life into this compressor!

[bagpipingandy]

Ok my friend, sorry bout taking so long to respond! U really have been G-d sent and your wisdom on these matters will always be appreciated.
I finally got around yesterday to raising the car on wood blocks at all 4 corners about 3". Low and behold after clearing codes on 34, I went to check "measuring blocks" and finally had values for the 3 groups. Then went about starting the calibration and after raising the channel value to 1, I heard the compressor kick on after 6 weeks of NO LUCK. The car leveled off at what seems to be level 2 but won't go up anymore than that. Car drove great but I still have the level error light on in the dash. So now that the car is driveable, what would the best way of getting out of this "frozen" actual level 2 state?
thanku Andy and at least I know that with your kit I can breath new life into this compressor!

hi ertatta, no problem..... but its not fixed yet :(

1. ok does it sit at level 2 or sink overnight?

2. what fault codes are stored now after clearing codes and then read codes?

3. post up screen grabs of the measuring blocks for groups 1, 2, 3, then a screen grab or groups 4, 5 & 6, we want to look at the values to see what is working, or not, it doesn't fill me with confidence yet, now it is working, either that or your flat battery is/was not helping things.

please answer all the questions above, as in the past you may have been slightly guilty of only answering 1 or 2 parts/steps, we need all the data and answers to above help understand what is happening ;)

Also I recommend to stop calibrating it for now, that is potentially what locked it into this position the 1st time!! :) lets try to see what's is wrong, fix it and then hopefully get it calibrated :) :)

best regards

Andy

[Duggy72]

Hi Andy,

very informative thread. As you are obviously the resident expert on this subject, can I ask if in your experience the C6 allroad suffers from suspension airbag failure too.

many thanks.

[adamss24]

... can I ask if in your experience the C6 allroad suffers from suspension airbag failure too ?
They are not old enough or done any real off roading so it's a bit early to condemn them but i heard of a few failures...

[Duggy72]

They are not old enough or done any real off roading so it's a bit early to condemn them but i heard of a few failures...

Thanks, I read on Honest Johns reviews that there are now a few reports of this on the C6. Just thought some forum members would have some info too.

thanks.

[bagpipingandy]

Sorry no expert :), or even any experience with the C6 :(, I see a few allroad posts in the C6 section, one mentioning sinking symptoms, I guess through time the sympoms will be similar the the older allroad unless they have invented rubber that doesn't perrish, but then they wouldnt never need fixed ;)

regards

Andy

[Dscotty]

Sorry no expert :), or even any experience with the C6 :(, I see a few allroad posts in the C6 section, one mentioning sinking symptoms, I guess through time the sympoms will be similar the the older allroad unless they have invented rubber that doesn't perrish, but then they wouldnt never need fixed ;)

regards

Andy
Hi Andy,
just read all through this post, and amazed at the time and effort you put into helping people. top bloke. I myself am hoping for some info on my C6 allroad 126k mls, which is dropping to bump stop on n/s rear, from position 1 overnight. It has got worse over last weeks and now the fault light comes on the dash after ~5 miles.
Presume the bag is perished and as its got worse the compressor cannot replenish it.
Arnott do not supply bags for the C6 which is not good news. Do you know of anyone else?
Does your kit fit the C6 compressor?
Many thanks, Darren

[bagpipingandy]

Hi Andy,
just read all through this post, and amazed at the time and effort you put into helping people. top bloke. I myself am hoping for some info on my C6 allroad 126k mls, which is dropping to bump stop on n/s rear, from position 1 overnight. It has got worse over last weeks and now the fault light comes on the dash after ~5 miles.
Presume the bag is perished and as its got worse the compressor cannot replenish it.
Arnott do not supply bags for the C6 which is not good news. Do you know of anyone else?
Does your kit fit the C6 compressor?
Many thanks, Darren

Hi Darren, I dont know of anyone for the C6 Airbags but i have never looked to be honest, there is now a company in china selling only the rubber and crimp rings and you can fit the rubber to your existing top and bottom shock yourselve!!! Crazy!! and probably near impossble without tooling, but my kind of thing!! :)

have you got a price yet from audi?

yes my kit will fit the compressor on the C6 also :)

also get a code read to see whats up.

before buying anything soak it with soapy water and look for bubbles forming, to confirm it is the airbag, it could also be the fitting leaking but ussually the airbag but, check 1st. ussually the lower half of the rubber and the car needs to be sitting at level 1 (or lowest level to create the same scenario)

regards

Andy

[Dscotty]

Thanks for your help and advice Andy. Bit of a mystery as to what is going on. The front antiroll bar links were in poor shape, so we have changed them and this appears to have cured the orange light problem, presumably as there is a height sensor on it?There are no fault codes showing at present, and we have spent 8 hours with the car at level 1, spraying very soapy water on and around the bags, connections etc. with no leaks found.Thursday night, we parked it on level 1 and the rear nearside corner dropped. Last night I parked it in level 4 and it has not gone down at all, which is in line with your advice for a buggered airbag!

On start up, the green light comes on, it lifts quickly to level, and if you ask for 4, it takes no more than about 20 secs. Whilst driving, it changes levels automatically quickly and without any delays.Obviously there is a leak, just a very very slow one. Perhaps need to live with it for a few weeks until it gets bad enough to detect. I was tempted to take it to Audi and see if they have 'special kit' to detect leaks? Just a little bit afraid of the bill they might deliver without diagnosis! If I cannot find it, why should they!

Thanks again, Darren.

[bagpipingandy]

Hi Darren,yep sounds like a leak and if very small can be very difficult to find, I wouldn't bother with audi I guess they would only replace it with no diagnosis, good news is your compressor must be healthy if it lifts fast so that's good, but be aware it will combat the leak tiring it out over time so best to fix ASAP,it can be hard to find the leak as it only leaks with the suspension sitting at level 1, and it must be a very small leak as I assume it takes hours to sink, so it is not doing too much harm for now, one option to help look is with the wheel removed VERY CAREFULLY use a suitable trolley jack and suitable jacking point on the lower suspension arm/lower ball joint to simulate the cars suspension sitting at level 1, this at least allows you to use a sponge with soapy water to soak and look for bubbles at the same time, usually the lower area of the airbag leaks on the fronts anyway, if it were an airline or fitting it would leak at every level so your description does point to the airbag,if it sinks every time left overnight at level 1 this is 99.9% the airbaggood luck :)best regardsAndy

[Phutters]

I was tempted to take it to Audi and see if they have 'special kit' to detect leaks? They do.

It's a bucket of water big enough to put the whole car in.

And a factory-issue yellow wax crayon to draw a circle round the leak, and some special glue to stick the patch on, and a special grater to grate the special chalk on to it to stop the glue sticking to something it isn't supposed to stick to...

[Duggy72]

Can the leaks be patched or does it have to be a new bag?

[Phutters]

Can the leaks be patched or does it have to be a new bag?A new bag.

It's an age-related issue as much as anything else. Typically the bags seem to crack and perish where the rubber 'rolls', so even if patching it did work, it'd likely only be a temporary solution until the same bag sprang a leak somewhere else because the rubber has lost the pliability it had when new.

It's not a puncture as such.

[Dscotty]

Hi Darren,yep sounds like a leak and if very small can be very difficult to find, I wouldn't bother with audi I guess they would only replace it with no diagnosis, good news is your compressor must be healthy if it lifts fast so that's good, but be aware it will combat the leak tiring it out over time so best to fix ASAP,it can be hard to find the leak as it only leaks with the suspension sitting at level 1, and it must be a very small leak as I assume it takes hours to sink, so it is not doing too much harm for now, one option to help look is with the wheel removed VERY CAREFULLY use a suitable trolley jack and suitable jacking point on the lower suspension arm/lower ball joint to simulate the cars suspension sitting at level 1, this at least allows you to use a sponge with soapy water to soak and look for bubbles at the same time, usually the lower area of the airbag leaks on the fronts anyway, if it were an airline or fitting it would leak at every level so your description does point to the airbag,if it sinks every time left overnight at level 1 this is 99.9% the airbaggood luck :)best regardsAndy

Hi Andy,

great advice as always! We did take the wheels off with a jack under the balljoint to get better access, but this did not yield anything either. We spent 8 hours buggering around with it, spraying need bubble liquid on to it. The car is now parked at level 4, and staying perfect for two days, and can be driven without fault. Very frustrating, but whilst it is not causing any problems we will just run it over Christmas and take another look in the new year. Although with that 99.9% certainty of it being the airbag, it is tempting to just order one.

Hope you and the family have a great Christmas and New Year, and thanks again for your help and patience.
Darren.

[colinryan]

Hi All - great thread - I would appreciate a steer with diagnosing my Suspension 'issue/issues':

I replaced the compressor (before I found your solution Andy) just before Christmas. Basically the car was running fine (although in hindsight maybe a little slow to adjust levels). Quite quickly I noticed it had dropped when parked over a few days and then one morning (all within a few days) it was down on its haunches and not raising. The compressor had failed.

The compressor was replaced and works well now (fast to raise/lower) BUT the car is sinking at the front overnight. Again I wish I knew about the cpmpressor kit would have saved me a fortune. I have tried to use jack mode to diagnose if my current issue is a leak on one side overnight but its not clear - the front of the car is generally down on both sides the following morning.

Before I decide to replace two airbags (I would replace both with arnotts at same time if doing) I am wondering it there might be a fault other than an airbag leak that I should look for? Given that both sides of the front of the car drop in what seems to be the same way. One point of note: The car is parked on-street on a negative camber road overnight (not level) so this makes the diagnosis a little harder (harder to see if just one side is dropping)...

I have read the valve block can cause problems and am wondering if there is a way to diagnose if it is (a) the block (b) something in between or (c) the air bags themselves ....

All help appreciated - just want to know in what order I should check things - head wrecked !!

C.

[bagpipingandy]

Hi C.

99% an airbag leak, a car sinking is a leak, the compressor only tops up the air to adjust levels and sinking when parked is a leak,

probably just 1 airbag but to help diagnose further to prove it is the airbag before buying anything, try some of these:

park at level 4 overnight (it should not sink, if just a small leak)

park at level 1 overnight (it will always sink)

if the above is true it is the airbag itself leaking,

they leak on the lower half of the actual airbag and only on low levels 1 maybe 2 sometimes.

to check if both are leaking park at level 1 in jack mode (this dissables the system from adjusting) any corner with a leak will sink to the bump stops, the other side may dip due to the weight but if it sinks with the wheel in the arch that is the corner which is leaking.

final attempt use soapy water over the suspect airbag (mainly lower half) and PARK AT LEVEL 1 to search for bubbles (yes not easy to do!! :) ). it will not leak when the wheel is raised from the ground, not due to no weight on in but the airbag itself moves up and down to change the height,


if ony 1 leaks only change the 1 unless you have spare funds,

regards

Andy

[colinryan]

Thanks for the above Andy - the car wont drop (from jack mode) when left at level 4. At levels 1,2 and 3 it does drop over a few hours. It always drops on both sides - no discernable difference.

I am going to go ahead and replace the front bags. I am looking at the Arnotts units (standard ones).

Two quick questions to folks in general:

1) Does anyone have a current discount code for Arnotts if I buy direct ?

2) Does anyone know of a good reseller of the arnotts units (with the same 2 year warranty fro outside the US) who is cheaper?

Thanks,

C.

[bagpipingandy]

Hi C

does it sink fast at level 1?

pretty unlucky to have both leaking, check with soapy water before forking out,

as for codes I have seen a few but couldn't find any tonight!!,

also warranty is a grey area some say only available from arnott direct, you would need to contact vendors direct to see what they offer.

regards

Andy

[mat68046]

Hello Andy

Have spent the evening quality time with the 21 pages of this thread, thanks to you for good reading and resources.
I have a situational question but some other bit data first:
2001 AR. Used eBay replacement compressor.
Also LF replacement used locally sourced bag.
These two bits are irrelevant, really, just worthy of note.
Compressor still needs refresh with your new ring kit and I suspect one or both front bags buggered (nice colloquial term!). I typically drive this rig on level 2 but inevitably the front end drops to the bumps stops (although not every time, still mysterious there). Attempted soap bubbling which was inconclusive at level 1.
Scanned with VCDS and retrieved codes 01400 and 01772, the latter is the tricky one. Cleared codes and later obtained same result.
Under no conditions can I "get it up" (ha ha) to levels 3 or 4 anymore. Used to but I haven't pushed the system since changing the two components. I see no serious holes or tears in the rubbers.
Noticed while running a suspension output test while soap testing other bits that while the compressor was running air was escaping from what I think is the "pneumatic discharge" valve? White insert cap on the compressor? I'd expect it to be a pressure relief of some sort or bleed off but to leak while the compressor is running AND the car isn't at height??
I'll await your first response to this post; I have the car parked at level 1 for the night to see what happens...
Thanks for all the effort!

Mark

[bagpipingandy]

Hi Mark,

yes this post is even too long for bed time reading now!! :)

the description and codes point to a weak compressor,

but 1st, does the car sink when left at level 1?

if it sinks to the bump stops then you still have a leak, most likely an airbag

for the compressor:

the air escaping from the high pressure relief valve area (white cap) is strange, does the air constantly whoosh when the compressor is running?
has this 2nd hand compressor ever worked?
if someone has opened this compressor previously they may not have fitted the valve correctly if it has never worked, if air constantly sounds/leaks out when the compressor is running, try to trace where this air is coming from, using soapy water or listen may confirm actually where the air escapes from..

OR- (just a thought!! & more likely :) )
if this ONLY happens during the output tests the software may open the n111 release valve on the compressor to vent the air out so the compressor is being tested to run, not for pressure. if this is the case the air will be passing out through the large plastic "bent" pipe next to this "white cap"

perhaps to confirm this air escaping noise, best to check when the car is requested to lift normally (press up) the compressor should start and then listen to the compressor to see if the air leaks out. if no air leaking from the compressor or the front airbags, get a kit fitted to it, :)

best regards

Andy

[mat68046]

Hi Mark,

yes this post is even too long for bed time reading now!! :)

the description and codes point to a weak compressor,

but 1st, does the car sink when left at level 1?

if it sinks to the bump stops then you still have a leak, most likely an airbag

for the compressor:

the air escaping from the high pressure relief valve area (white cap) is strange, does the air constantly whoosh when the compressor is running?
has this 2nd hand compressor ever worked?
if someone has opened this compressor previously they may not have fitted the valve correctly if it has never worked, if air constantly sounds/leaks out when the compressor is running, try to trace where this air is coming from, using soapy water or listen may confirm actually where the air escapes from..

OR- (just a thought!! & more likely :) )
if this ONLY happens during the output tests the software may open the n111 release valve on the compressor to vent the air out so the compressor is being tested to run, not for pressure. if this is the case the air will be passing out through the large plastic "bent" pipe next to this "white cap"

perhaps to confirm this air escaping noise, best to check when the car is requested to lift normally (press up) the compressor should start and then listen to the compressor to see if the air leaks out. if no air leaking from the compressor or the front airbags, get a kit fitted to it, :)

best regards

Andy

You are correct diagnostically, I must have checked the "leak" at the compressor while VCDS was running the output tests. Soap test #2 shows no leak, and compressor rattles occasionally. This second unit never really functioned as new but since I had no reference (New to the AR) I didn't know what to expect. The original compressor, which I still have and will rebuild another one of your kits later, was worse in efficacy and noise.

Car was down on the LF front wing again this morning. Took system off of park and compressor kicked in (for soap test #2). Unit stopped running before the car reached level at #1, solid K134. Re-started car, compressor again cycled in and completed level to position 1 with no K134 activation.

Soap test #2 at the front bags did reveal perrish leak (position 1) LF at a spot I couldn't get to before, fairly significant. Seems I bought a holy bag after all.

Height measurements before any testing today were:
LF: 31.75 cm
RF: 35.5 cm
LR: 38.75 cm
RR: 41.75 cm

Assuming the differential in the rear height is due to the front left corner being so low.

Measurements at level 1 are a bit screwy (especially the rear) and maybe indicate calibration needed (?) but I'd rather wait until I change that LF bag and install the replacement compressor components. I don't dare try to see if the car goes to level 3 or 4 at this point, the bar needed to achieve that is seemingly exponential and with a verified leak not a good idea as I do need to use the car. Numbers are all over the place above and below 40.2....

LF: 37.5 cm
RF: ~38.1 cm
LR: 38.75 cm
RR: 42.5 cm

Thanks, Andy, for coordinating a chap in the States to route a kit to me directly, should shave off considerable time to receive it!
I'll post updates as they occur.

Mark

[djmarkc]

hi its my first time on a Forum so here i go ---my question -- a6 allroad 2001 yellow light on dash perment ( Little car ) suspention all the way down no sound from compresor used the kit from Andy still sitting on the floor can i reset the engine manegment so the compresor has power ??

[bagpipingandy]

hi its my first time on a Forum so here i go ---my question -- a6 allroad 2001 yellow light on dash perment ( Little car ) suspention all the way down no sound from compresor used the kit from Andy still sitting on the floor can i reset the engine manegment so the compresor has power ??

Hi & Welcome,

If the suspension error light is on permenantly we need a fault code read to see why the system is not working,

scan module 34 with a diagnostic tool, (prefereable vcds-vag-com) and check what fault codes are stored, then clear the fault codes and re-scan if the light is still on, tell us what the codes are. it could be a number of things a fault code will point us in the correct direction,

best regards

Andy

[mat68046]

Not to jack djmarkc, but I'll throw in an update on my AR. Picked up a set of eight month old Gen1 Arnott fronts, installed LF to correct leak at that corner.
After install, restored system and attempted level 2. Took two tries but got there without K134. Test drove on level 2 okay. Returned and compressor kicked in but timed out with solid K134. Reset and tried again, heard hissing at compressor again so that problem wasn't due to output tests being run after all. Let car settle back to level 1 and parked to check for bag leaks again; will update on that later.
Question, Andy...
Is that discharge valve serviceable or is there more likely damage to that part? Your kit won't address that specifically I don't think, and the N111 seems to be working okay. Just don't know if there's gunk in that valve? What is your experience with that issue?

[bagpipingandy]

Hi Mark,
what year is your allroad?

is this hissing while the compressor is actually running? or once the compressor stops?, it will vent air through the N111 for a few seconds when the compressor stops, which is why I ask,

it is not common for this valve to be faulty or dirty and I don't think it will be faulty, if the hissing is while the compressor runs then something is leaking, use your hands or soapy water to locate what air is leaking from. if it is that valve air will be leaking out through the large plastic pipe remove it and put your finger over the end, I have seen a cracked air drier casing once, you need to find where the leak is.

however,

if it hisses only for 1-2 second when the compressor physically stops this is the N111 valve opening to release air pressure and fine, and you just have a weak compressor

regards

Andy

[mat68046]

Hi Mark,
what year is your allroad?

is this hissing while the compressor is actually running? or once the compressor stops?, it will vent air through the N111 for a few seconds when the compressor stops, which is why I ask,

it is not common for this valve to be faulty or dirty and I don't think it will be faulty, if the hissing is while the compressor runs then something is leaking, use your hands or soapy water to locate what air is leaking from. if it is that valve air will be leaking out through the large plastic pipe remove it and put your finger over the end, I have seen a cracked air drier casing once, you need to find where the leak is.

however,

if it hisses only for 1-2 second when the compressor physically stops this is the N111 valve opening to release air pressure and fine, and you just have a weak compressor

regards

Andy

The AR is a 2001.
The compressor is bypassing out of the white cap assuming discharge valve as the unit is running normally. I'm familiar with the bleed-off after it shuts down but this bypassing seems to be occurring at all times, but ceases when unit stops running. Will assess more closely upon removal since your kit arrived today (Well done, kudos to you and your customer for that). I'm going to bubble the thing one more time and then remove it. Should know this afternoon but allowing for GMT I'll update this post and may email you direct if I run into problems with this additional leak.
The front end was completely down again so the remaining RF bag must also have a leak; I left it parked @ level 1 last night.
I'll be available via email next couple of hours if you have any information I may need now.

[All-rod]

Even with just one faulty bag both sides go down, not necessary both have to have leak.

[mat68046]

Even with just one faulty bag both sides go down, not necessary both have to have leak.

Interesting, All-rod. I assumed erroneously that all corners were individually plumbed dedicated. The LF is consistently lower no matter what which must be a sensor/ calibration issue. Seems to run 3/4 - 1" lower than the other 3 corners and that remains true regardless of which bag is installed. I changed the entire assembly yesterday. I did find a leak at the fitting to the LF which has been corrected which should slow or stop the leakage. The RF bag is original and may no doubt have it's own leak somewhere that I didn't see on bubble testing. Will tackle the height issues on a different thread, this is supposed to be compressor related....
I will say for the sake of the thread that my compressor still has a leak somewhere; part of the N111 and safety valve portions. Bagpipingandy has been working with me through today on it (thanks Andy!), as the leak became more obvious once I installed Andy's rebuild kit which made the compressor so much quieter I could now hear the additional leak! Between the leaks and the previous inefficiency it's easy to see how the system was failing.
Per Andy's instructions I'll disassemble the concerned bits and report back for the benefit of the thread. If I'm having this problem chances are someone else is!

[djmarkc]

hi Andy no the compressor does not apear to have any power as i said before i Change the seals with a kit from you but the power is still not there and ist still on the floor ist like driving a bloody gokart lol andi it has eaten the back right tyer ( no tred left )

[killzone]

When i had a RangeRover p38, the forums would recommend a second manual compressor , in case the main one failed the second one would raise the RR , to keep you going , is this doable on the allroad.

[bagpipingandy]

hi Andy no the compressor does not apear to have any power as i said before i Change the seals with a kit from you but the power is still not there and ist still on the floor ist like driving a bloody gokart lol andi it has eaten the back right tyer ( no tred left ) HI, It will not work until the suspension error light is off, it is on because probably their is a fault or was a fault in the system, we need a fault code read, then clear the fault codes and read what fault codes come back,the compressor will not start until you clear the error light,best regardsAndy

[bagpipingandy]

When i had a RangeRover p38, the forums would recommend a second manual compressor , in case the main one failed the second one would raise the RR , to keep you going , is this doable on the allroad.Hi, yes i'm sure it could be possible, all you need is an air supply, but it can be enough just looking after one compressor though!! :)regardsAndy

[djmarkc]

so i took my allroad to a Audi dealer and he told me the managment box for the suspention is defect ( on the lefthand side atthe back of the car ) Any idea were i can get one and does it need any computer work when it fitted ?

best regards

mark

[mat68046]

so i took my allroad to a Audi dealer and he told me the managment box for the suspention is defect ( on the lefthand side atthe back of the car ) Any idea were i can get one and does it need any computer work when it fitted ?

best regards

mark

4Z7907553E is most likely p/n. Item # for one currently on eBay is 151164147690 for reference. I suspect one can be had via the forum for less $.....Post in wanted to buy section.
Did dealer give you codes?
Refresh us on the symptoms.
I'll leave fitment details to the experts, though.

[mat68046]

Update on my AR

After fitting a new ring kit provided by Andy (HIGHLY RECOMMENDED), compressor reacted well however a secondary problem became evident now that the thing actually put out pressure. This being a leak in the N111 bleed off section. As the compressor was running, air was escaping via that portion of the compressor. Removal/ inspection of the pressure relief showed no problems.
I should have pulled the N111 which I did later. This revealed corrosion which compromised the seals for that device which led to bleed off of compressed air as the compressor ran.
As I had a spares unit I utilized the drier and N111 from the other unit and reassembled with outstanding results. I don't think I've ever had the car at level 4 which it gets to readily without issue now.
Many kudos to BagpipingAndy for his dauntless efforts to assist and for manufacturing such a high quality rebuild kit with support to match.
Mark

[djmarkc]

sorry dealer didnt give me the codes and the module is for a 2002--03 and mine is a 2001 is that a Problem ? ( will call the dealer tomorow and get the codes - but he sayed he could not get rid of the error so the module is defect ???????



All the best

Mark

PS the guy was a Yong Boy mabey 25

[mat68046]

sorry dealer didnt give me the codes and the module is for a 2002--03 and mine is a 2001 is that a Problem ? ( will call the dealer tomorow and get the codes - but he sayed he could not get rid of the error so the module is defect ???????



All the best

Mark

PS the guy was a Yong Boy mabey 25

4Z7907553B is the 2001 p/n best I can find. From here I digress to the experts.....Need those codes if possible, updated symptoms and whether or not you have access to vag-com.

[bagpipingandy]

sorry dealer didnt give me the codes and the module is for a 2002--03 and mine is a 2001 is that a Problem ? ( will call the dealer tomorow and get the codes - but he sayed he could not get rid of the error so the module is defect ???????



All the best

Mark

PS the guy was a Yong Boy mabey 25

yes we need the fault code to help confirm its the module at fault,

if changing the module you need the existing module number (written on the module) as they are not all compatible, the early ones (2000-2001) have a MAN option the latest module does not cover all previous as far as im aware, the audi dealer could tell you what part you need.

and yes it will need coded and probably calibrated to the car with VCDS too :(,

if you can get the fault code the garage read, or scan it again, if its the module at fault it will be an "internal memory code" error or similar.

regards

Andy

[jimmyfingers]

Andy, can I just say a big thank you for producing the compressor ring kit, and also the instructions, video etc that goes with it. After having the allroad for nearly 5 months now with just the occasional struggle to raise above 1, I finally got round to fitting it last night. The compressor looked in a bit of a sorry state with corrosion and to be honest I wasn't sure if it would work, but got it all fitted back, off the ramps, hit the level button and raised to 4 in a flash! Over the moon is an understatement, I haven't had car fix satisfaction like that since I had my beetle 20 years ago! Anyway, small things and all that... Thanks again Andy and keep up the good work! Brake warning light has just come on now and I think it sounds like a wheel bearing whir front right so onto the next job...
Regards
Jamie

[bagpipingandy]

Good job Jamie,

thanks for your feedback, great success with my kit, 3000+ sold now :)

ive seen some pretty bad looking compressors burst back into life, they are well made little things, & if you can get the bolts out my kit will renew the compression (beware of cheaper copies now, I know of some not working at all)

I will get on to a wheel bearing and brake repair kit for you next!!! :)

best regards

Andy

[Phutters]

I will get on to a wheel bearing and brake repair kit for you next!

Once you've done that, could you knock up some front shock absorbers? Fifty notes a pair?

Then control arms and drop links, maybe?

How about a high-level brake light with everlasting LEDs?

Door locks?

Window regulators?

N75s?

Push fit glowplugs?

An injection pump that costs less than a Dacia Duster?

I've got a list somewhere...

[bagpipingandy]

:) :)

[careless_adi]

Hi there.

This may be a silly question but what are the symptoms of this thing failing?

I have a 2006 (56 reg) Audi A6 with Air Suspension borrowed from the Allroad. Where is the
compressor located on this car? I would like to test for air leaks.

Cheers,

Adrian

[bagpipingandy]

Hi Arrian,

If this is a non allroad car is it a A6 saloon? (pretty rare!!)

if the A6 non allroad the compressor is in the LH boot space about the rear wheel arch, if an allroad the compressor is underneath the car outside the body

on the allroad symptoms of a failing compressor are: when changing level up, it takes longer than 2 mins to change it puts the suspension error light on, but turn ignition off and on it will try to lift again.

the A6 saloon just uses rear self leveling to keep the car level, the allroad can change heights at all 4 corners - 4 levels

if airbags leaking the car will sink when parked,

what are your suspension symptoms

regadrs

Andy

[careless_adi]

Hi Andy,

It is a 'normal' A6 Avant, NOT Allroad - A6 C6. I know, it is rare, combined with a manual gearbox and a 3.0TDI engine it is indeed rare.

That sounds like the problem I'm getting. I left it in 'Comfort' mode for about a month, and all of a sudden, yesterday, the orange suspension light came on without me touching anything. I turned the ignition off, and back on again and the light went off. I tried setting it to 'lift' but nothing after 2 minutes and again orange light came back on.
I don't want to set it to a lower level just in case I get stuck on that and can't get back to comfort!!

As my A6 is the 2006 model, would the compressor be the same as the older ones? And even the newer ones?

Would your part be 100% compatible with my air suspension system?

Kind regards,

Adrian

[bagpipingandy]

Hi Adrian,

yes my kit fits the Wabco air suspension compressor which audi use on all their models,

see link to my Audi kit:
Audi Allroad Air Suspension Compressor Repair Kit | eBay (http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/151130555820?ssPageName=STRK:MESELX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1555.l2649#ht_2800wt_1399)

any questions please just ask

regards

Andy

[careless_adi]

Hi Andy / all.

I've just been up the road to my local garage and the Snap-On ECU code reader gave an error code 02646 Plausibility of level control system. Is this a common error code for this kind of fault?

Kind regards,

Adrian

[bagpipingandy]

HI Adrian,

I'm Not familiar with the newer C6 system codes, I cant find much info on that one either, the older system would give a G291 pressure sensor fault and over heat temp fault when the compressor is tired,

the text "Plausibility of level control system" is not clear what it could be, i cannot find much on it in google either sorry

regards

Andy

[careless_adi]

Hi Andy,

Funny you should say that about the temp fault. We watched the temp on the compressor rise, and it cuts out right when the MMI screen greys out and the orange light comes on, then the temp on the compressor goes down. It got to about 110deg c at one point.

Kind regards,

Adrian

[Charlie_allroad]

Hi Andy,

This is an amazing thread! To see how you've found a solution to a problem and made it available to the masses! Very inspiring!

From what I've read I plan to become a customer very soon. Just I'm a little confused with the problem I have with my Allroad air system.

When the cars cold (just started) and I ask it to lift the suspension up a level I can hear the compressor start up (very loud) but the car doesn't lift. Eventually the warning light come on on the dash. So I would understand that to be a warn out prison ring. How ever once the cars warmed up and you press the button, the pump kicks in (very very quiet) and the car lifts to any position very quickly! Does this sound like a common case? Surly the ring warm up and suddenly seal the piston in side the cylinder!

Would be interested in hearing your thoughts.

Best regards

Charlie

[bagpipingandy]

Hi Charlie


it does sound like a tired compressor symptoms especially when cold, but you say it doesn't lift when cold? I guess you mean its slow it actualy moves but just slow and if it tries for 120 seconds and does not reach the requested level it will put the error light on solid, but then ignition off and on it will try again?
so my questions is when cold does it move? (try a tape measure on the rear wheel arch to the ground) or does it not move at all? if no movement when cold, maybe a stuck valve if it does not lift at all when cold,

if it does move and can get to the next level with a few ignition offs and on agains,: its only a theory and not a calculated answer I have I'm afraid but, It may lift faster when "warm" as the car will have topped up the storage tank when driving a while giving potentially more air to help lift it, but when parked the system will use the air up to do any levelling when you get out the car and so could be a reason when cold next morning the system is low on air and struggles to lift and get into shape,

also
does the car sit at level 1 when parked overnight or does it sink to the bump stops?

regards

Andy

[Charlie_allroad]

Hi Andy,

Thanks for getting back so quick. I'll get out tomorrow with a tape and see what's happening.

That's sounds a possibility that the reserve tank is pressurising while I'm driving so when stopped a change in level appears silent as the pump may not actually be running and the bags are just filling from the stored pressure in the tank.

Are you saying that the system is programmed to drop to level 1 while parked? If so that would explain the various hisses (definite valve controlled hisses not leaks) and why it allways wants to lift it's self when first started (but always errors).

I'll measure tomorrow as well as purchase one of your kits as the pump is clearly not happy regardless of any other issues.

Thanks again

Charlie

[careless_adi]

Hi Andy,

Just to let you know that I had the repair kit fitted today, but unfortunately it hasn't resolved my problem. There was a fair amount of white corrosion around the ring seal, which after some scrubbing looked really good. I'm pleased I did this anyway as I'm sure it's revived the compressor to its original working order, and one of the parts that could have been at fault.

One question though - when the compressor stops working i.e. at the end of its cycle, is it supposed to blow air around the unit itself? After the repair kit was fitted, I had my hand jammed near the compressor (on my car found between the offside front tyre and the fog light), when it stopped vibrating I felt a slight whoosh of air around my hand.

Adrian

[bagpipingandy]

Hi Adrian,

yes it vents air each time it stops to help remove pressure in the compressor & output line and some say to help remove moisture from the compressor and airline, the kit will have renewd the output pressure hence this Whosh is now more noticeable once the compressor stops, it should not do this when the compressor runs only the second it stiops it will release air for 1-2 seconds, is this what you get?,

If so for now with your problem we need to focus on this fault code you have mentioned to see what it is, and why it is stopping the system, confirm what fault codes you have now, read and clear them, then re read them once the light comes back on,

on your model can you request the car to lift to a different height? if so does it change heights? (I think it may just be a self leveling option for the rear of your car rather than an option for the driver to change heights.)

im trying to work out if their are any symptoms rather than the light just coming on or does it all seem to function ok, other than the error light comes on.

regards

Andy

[careless_adi]

Hi Andy,

I have a thread open with my cars problem over in the A6 C6 section of these forums.

The air that I felt around the air compressor lasted for 1 - 2 seconds immediately after the air compressor stopped compressing so I'm happy about that because it's done exactly as you've described. I thought maybe the air compressor didn't go back together properly causing an air leak or something!!

After the refurb kit went in yesterday, immediately after the car was lowered off the ramps, the system didn't work. I had it set to 'Comfort', and tried to put it to 'Lift', but the car didn't raise at all, and the orange light came on and the MMI greyed out - same as before. After stopping the engine and restarting it again, the MMI screen goes back to normal awaiting an input for a different ride height with no lights on the das - again, same as before. I drove it home (about 50 meters) and sulked for the rest of the evening.

However, today was different. When starting the car this morning, no lights at all and MMI was fine, awaiting an input which happens as usual. On my way to the next village along, the green light came on and stayed on for about 5 seconds. Still in 'Comfort' mode, I drove for about an hour and a half in total (3 half hour long journeys) and no light came on at all. When I got home I felt confident enough to put the car into 'Lift' mode, which it did eventually. It took about 30 seconds or so for the rear end of the car to start lifting, and then the front end lifted up. No lights on the dashboard at all. Maybe the car needed time to fill up the air storage tank?

I will get the car scanned for errors and reset them as I'm sure there will be some from yesterday. I will report back once I've had this done, but I doubt it'll be before the weekend now.

Yes on my car you can select the different heights, it's NOT just the self levelling rear end. It's basically an A6 C6 Avant with the Allroad suspension as one of the options.

EDIT: OK, so I took the car out to the petrol station about 5 minute drive away, and the suspension didn't do anything. The MMI greyed out and the orange light came on. I had the car on 'Comfort' mode and tried putting it to 'lift'. I will try when I next drive the car on a longer journey to adjust the suspension so it's warmed up.

[Charlie_allroad]

Hi Charlie


it does sound like a tired compressor symptoms especially when cold, but you say it doesn't lift when cold? I guess you mean its slow it actualy moves but just slow and if it tries for 120 seconds and does not reach the requested level it will put the error light on solid, but then ignition off and on it will try again?
so my questions is when cold does it move? (try a tape measure on the rear wheel arch to the ground) or does it not move at all? if no movement when cold, maybe a stuck valve if it does not lift at all when cold,

if it does move and can get to the next level with a few ignition offs and on agains,: its only a theory and not a calculated answer I have I'm afraid but, It may lift faster when "warm" as the car will have topped up the storage tank when driving a while giving potentially more air to help lift it, but when parked the system will use the air up to do any levelling when you get out the car and so could be a reason when cold next morning the system is low on air and struggles to lift and get into shape,

also
does the car sit at level 1 when parked overnight or does it sink to the bump stops?

regards

Andy

Hi Andy,

Just been out and measured the ride hight change. Sure enough there was movement, it was slow and timed out but there was movement.

Will now proceed to Ebay for one of your kits... Thanks again for your help.

Charlie.

[careless_adi]

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/161372854977?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649

(http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/161372854977?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649)Hi there.

I had an air leak in the valve bock so that got replaced. However, the suspension still doesn't rise as it should. When cold it's fine, but after a while the compressor shuts down when hot. The Audi specialist where the car is at currently has said this. I fitted your refurb kit a couple of weeks ago which has made a difference, but it's still not 100%.
I found this on ebay - (see above link, not sure why it got inserted there). Would these parts help bring the compressor back to life? Do you do one of these kits? Is there anything else to do on this compressor? Or would I be better off getting a new compressor? Do you have any?

Kind regards,

Adrian

[bagpipingandy]

Hi Adrian,

the ebay link you show is for the drier unit decissant and will not improve the compressors air pressure output performance, its purpose is to remove moisture from the system, but afraid it will not make any more air from the compressor, but we can check a few other things which maybe wrong in the compressor.

does your car sink?

or just slow to lift?

there are other things to check inside the compressor if you can disassemble it, the one way valve at the top of the cylinder is worth checking, what condition was the cylinder in? was it scored?

I don't offer new compressors but I will have some refurbished compressors ready in 2-3 weeks

let me know 1st your suspension symptoms

best regards

Andy

[All-rod]

Andy,

Is it still possible this drier unit can block because of its age and possible moisture effect on contents inside it and reduce amount of air that passes to compressor and thus reduce its performance in that perspective?

[bagpipingandy]

Hi All-rod

In my opinion it cannot really block up enough to stop 220PSI from the piston, but (again only my opinion) their are many other components which require to be working to get the full performance, 1st main ones being there are 5 valves in this compressor each must be sealed closed to generate this kind of pressure, these are far more likely to be preventing the full pressure build due to dirt, or brocken springs,

the compressor also always vents air to remove moisture everytime it stops running, this is the PFFFSSTT you hear for 1-2 seconds exactly when the compressor stops, it does this to remove pressure from the airline line and any moisture in it, I have opened a lot of compressors and most certainly are moist in the drier unit but not so much they are blocked, any soaked compressors have usually injested water in through the air intake at some point which rusts and jams the N111 and pressure relief valve.

if the cylinder is in good condition the compressor should be repairable back to 220PSI, the valves can be removed cleaned and checked fairly easily, the only other compression issues can be a cracked drier body, or air intake vane bent open or even blocked air intake filter.

regards

Andy

[All-rod]

Ok, thanks for this explanation. Mine still runs fine since I replaced the ring, most of time cant even hear it run and only for short periods, even though sometimes it does lift pretty slow it does the job and cant really complain!
As you say the are many other factors involved that may be causing slow lift now most of these cars are over 10 years old...

Cheers,