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View Full Version : 00515 camshaft position hall sensor g40 - no signal Really need help please !



seancullen
10-09-2011, 11:18 AM
Problems with car 1997 a3 1.6 sport

- Only reving to 5000rpm when in a gear, in neutral it will rev to approx 6500rpm
- When pulling away from lights etc loss of power, trys to stall, (only happens when car is upto temp) ok when cold
- Revs take a bit longer than normal to come down to idle
- strong smell of unburnt fuel
- loss of power
- Temp guage moves between 60 - 90 ( I have replaced senor with no joy)

Only codes showing up is

00515 camshaft position hall sensor g40 - no signal

Please can some1 help me out with this, ie - where is the camshaft sensor located and can I take it out to clean etc.

Any help will be much appreciated.

Regards

seancullen
10-09-2011, 05:05 PM
update people,

Ran the car for a while, temp went upto 90 deg and stayed there.

Pluged the scanner in and still got the same fault

Every so ofter the lambda sensor code woud come up saying - low end
I understand this is to do with the misture running rich ? am i right ?

Regards

Crasher
14-09-2011, 09:58 AM
The sensor (part number 06A 905 161 B, £112.27 from Audi) requires the upper cam pulley to be removed (or pulled nearly off) so it can be changed.

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd20/Crasher1964/06A905161B.jpg

seancullen
14-09-2011, 05:36 PM
Thanks crasher!,

How do you go about pulling it nearly off? is it a hard job ?

Crasher
14-09-2011, 11:43 PM
If you pull the upper pullet right back along the camshafts woodruff key you may be able to get the sensor out from between the chopper blade on the pulley.

Rhys0_0
19-09-2011, 12:58 PM
Sorry to jump on this thread but I've got the same problem. I've changed the cam sensor but same error comes back? What els could it be? I've changed the coil. Could it be worth changing the plugs?
Car failed the MOT on emissions so am desperate to get this sorted now.

Crasher
19-09-2011, 02:01 PM
What is the exact fault code you are getting and the cars details?

Rhys0_0
19-09-2011, 07:08 PM
Same as above crasher 00515. It's a 1.6 2000 A3.
Runs ok cold but misfires slighty when upto temp.

Crasher
19-09-2011, 11:01 PM
There are two versions of the fault code, which one do you have?

00515 Hall sender

1) G40 No signal
2) Implausible signal

Rhys0_0
19-09-2011, 11:44 PM
It's the Implausible signal one.

Crasher
20-09-2011, 10:50 AM
That is usually cam to crank timing, i.e. valve timing. I see this a lot on the AKL.

Rhys0_0
20-09-2011, 02:24 PM
I've changed the plugs and no joy. The were stinking though. I'll have to get the timing sorted out then is it? Or at least check it to see it it's right. If it is out is it just a matter or pulling timing belt off cam and putting back correctly? Say a tooth or whatever is needed?

Crasher
20-09-2011, 02:35 PM
Check the valve timing first, its easy to do.

Rhys0_0
20-09-2011, 02:52 PM
How is this done? Checking cam mark to flywheel mark is it?

Crasher
20-09-2011, 04:13 PM
Cam mark and flywheel mark.

Rhys0_0
20-09-2011, 04:18 PM
Ok that's great. I'll let you know how it goes. Thank!

Rhys0_0
21-09-2011, 03:47 PM
I checked the timing but noticed 2 marks on the flywheel. Is the timing mark the line across the flywheel or the mark down into the flywheel? I put it to the line and am not getting the 00515 error anymore but am still getting the missing?? I'm lost now. Lol.
New plugs, new coil, new cam sensor and still missing but now with no errors??

Crasher
21-09-2011, 05:20 PM
It sounds like you have the timing correct now so with the symptoms you describe I would suspect the Air Mass Meter to be at fault. As you have fault code reading equipment and there are no codes, try disconnecting the AMM and see if it runs smother, if it does, you need a new AMM.

seancullen
23-09-2011, 10:02 AM
00515 camshaft position hall sensor g40 - no signal Really need help please !

Problems with car 1997 a3 1.6 sport

- Only reving to 5000rpm when in a gear, in neutral it will rev to approx 6500rpm
- When pulling away from lights etc loss of power, trys to stall, (only happens when car is upto temp) ok when cold
- Revs take a bit longer than normal to come down to idle
- strong smell of unburnt fuel
- loss of power
- Temp guage moves between 60 - 90 ( I have replaced senor with no joy)

Only codes showing up is

00515 camshaft position hall sensor g40 - no signal

Update people

Replaced the cam sensor and it has seemed to fix the problem, car is reving all the way to the top. Also it feels alot better wen accelerating. Idle it seems alot happier as well :D

Was quoted over £110 for the camshaft sensor from audi, got it from http://www.vaux-world.com/ for £16.00 including postage.

Tips For Changing Sensor !

1. Remove engine cover
2. Take air filter off
3. Unplug accelerator cable
4. unplug hose going into right hand side of the intake manifold and the hose going into top of throttle body.
5. Intake manifold comes apart, top half (with throttle-body attached) should sit over to the right where the air box is. still with some hoses attached to the throttle body. (Also unplugged other hoses and wires attached, take pics of where they are for when you re attach!
(you will see 4 rings that seal the top and bottom half of the intake manifold, this is a good chance to check them and give them a clean. Personally I would change these over (Approx £4-5 pounds not expensive).
6. Take the guard off that protects the camshaft sprocket at the top of engine to the left hand side.
7. Take the plastic mounting off that the guard clips onto,
8. The sensor sits between the cam sprocket and the top of the engine.
9. Take camshaft cover off - approx 8 nuts (4 on each side) this will give you a better view of area.
10. The sensor is held by 2 bolts, 1 is 13mm hex head and other is an allen key (cant remember which size sorry)
11. 13mm hex bolt sits just under where the sensor plug is, You might think your timing belt will be covering access. But use a 13mm socket and move the belt to the side and you can gain access. ( its a bit fiddily but you will get there)
12. With regards to the other bolt (I thought the timing belt would have to come off but after a lot of messing about .... it doesnt THANK GOD)
13. You will think you cant get to the allen key bolt because of the camshaft sprocket, but you can !!
14. A standard size allen key will do the job
15. Allen key bolt is found to the bottom of the sprocket, push the short end of the allen key into the bolt head. riggle the allen key and get it as far into the bolt head as far as u can.
The key will be at a slight angle because of the position of the camshaft sprocket but push it in as far as you can.
16. You should be able to loosen the bolt, but it will only come out as far as the camshaft sprocket.
17. I used a metal bar to jam the sprocket agaisnt the engine while using a socket to release the bolt from the centre of the sprocket.
18. now you can tap the sprocket off its key but be careful for not to go to far, just enough so you can unscrew the allen key bolt.

Now basically reverse what you did.

This was a general guide for someone who has a some sort of experience with engines.

This was just to highlight that you do not need to take off timing belt (like i first thought) to change this sensor.
When you first look at the allen key bolt in regards to the position of the camshaft sprocket ( your first thought is there is no way you will be able to get enough purchase to realse the bolt)

But with a standard size allen key you will !!

Thanks People

seancullen
23-09-2011, 10:03 AM
Forgot to add, my temp sensor moves upto 90 deg with no problems now, and stays there.

Rhys0_0
23-09-2011, 10:51 AM
What engine code is that guide for? All I had to do is remove engine cover. Remove cam sprocket cover and remove sprocket(due to rounded cap screw other wise it would have been partially remove sprocket. That was it really. Nothing els to it??
Rhys.

Rhys0_0
29-09-2011, 07:40 PM
Right then… I've changed the MAF/MAM but am now getting the code 00537. Lambda Regulation. Sparodic- Lower stop value.
Any ideas Crasher??

Crasher
29-09-2011, 11:28 PM
It's over fuelling, where did you buy the AMM?

Rhys0_0
30-09-2011, 05:09 AM
Local. It was a cheap one to see if it worked. I'm guessing I should have got a "good" one? I'm just worried it still won't sort it that's why I went cheap…

Crasher
30-09-2011, 10:56 AM
There is a good possibility that you have introduced a fault with the cheap AMM, that is why I bully people into fitting a genuine exchange unit from the dealer. They may cost more but once fitted, even if it does not cure the problem you know 99.99% for sure that it is not the AMM.