What effects/damage can the cold weather have on the car?

[g-black]

I'm sure I'm not the only to be wondering this. Having never experienced such cold weather in all my driving experience, I just wondered what effect the cold weather has on things like window seals, engine wear, etc etc.

Reason I ask is because every evening when I go out to the car, it takes about 10 minutes before the car is ready to go. I usually start the engine and let it run for 5 mins before I go anywhere? Is it better to let the glow plugs sit for a while before firing it up?

Also, what's the best way to get any ice of the car? Driving down the road and all I can hear is the front and rear windows creaking with the coldness. It's also made very obvious if the car sits unevenly, i.e. one wheel up a curb. As the car twists, all the window seals creak and it just doesn't sound like it's doing it any good!

Has anyone any good tips to help prevent wear and tear in the cold weather other than leave the car at home?!

[podwin]

Keep it in a garage?

[patomlin76]

I'm sure I'm not the only to be wondering this. Having never experienced such cold weather in all my driving experience, I just wondered what effect the cold weather has on things like window seals, engine wear, etc etc.

Reason I ask is because every evening when I go out to the car, it takes about 10 minutes before the car is ready to go. I usually start the engine and let it run for 5 mins before I go anywhere? Is it better to let the glow plugs sit for a while before firing it up?

Also, what's the best way to get any ice of the car? Driving down the road and all I can hear is the front and rear windows creaking with the coldness. It's also made very obvious if the car sits unevenly, i.e. one wheel up a curb. As the car twists, all the window seals creak and it just doesn't sound like it's doing it any good!

Has anyone any good tips to help prevent wear and tear in the cold weather other than leave the car at home?!

I've had the ice-cracking experience too... It certainly shows just how much flexing a car does, even though you don't feel it. Two nights ago my roof was frozen over, however every twist or bump in the road resulted in loud crack sounds, also I had ice where the boot edge meets the rear windscreen. That results in a rattling sound that sounds like its in the car!

I'd like to know what tolerances they test components at manufacturing stage. At -14 two mornings ago, my windscreen washer pump froze. I thought it was broken until it started working again at around -5.

Credit to the interior materials though, these haven't rattled almost as much as my previous cars have. Yes the dash can be a bit crackly but that aside, door cards and dash materials withstand these harsh conditions pretty well...

The only thing that breaks on my car in the cold is the boot latch mech, and that is getting replaced on Friday.

[ToMBoY_C]

My engine coolant froze as did the windscreen wash, 1 mirror is not heating and washer jets aren't heating. Don't think the battery likes this cold weather either. Anyone ideas where fuse is for heated wing mirrors? And for heated wash jets??

[g-black]

Wish I could keep it in a garage but dads car gets priority I'm afraid. Have thought of getting a cover for it but think it will make things worse by freezing to the car! I had the same issue last not with the snow/ice on the boot lid/window. It was doing my head in so had to get out and try and clear it. I'm also affriad of taking it of the paint incase I damage it!

Deffinatly think I'll have the underside of the car cleaned come spring. The amount of slush stuck round the wheel arches at the min is crazy.

I also went out the other night and took my shiny new wheels off. Wasn't worth the risk! Now rolling very low on standard wheels. Have to keep clearing snow from the front grill now and again!

[Eshrules]

Deffinatly think I'll have the underside of the car cleaned come spring. The amount of slush stuck round the wheel arches at the min is crazy.



I think it'll have thawed out by then :approve:

[g-black]

The point being it will have left a nice salty mess after it has melted. My last b6 was 4 years old and was rusting away underneath around the edges of the lower arms, springs, hubs, exhaust mounts and the top rear shock mounts.

[Sam]

Something wasn't quite right with that then.

I've not washed my car (01 3BG Passat) for about 18 months during which time we've had two monumental freezes/Armageddons and there are no signs of rusting whatsoever.

[Sam]

My engine coolant froze as did the windscreen wash, 1 mirror is not heating and washer jets aren't heating. Don't think the battery likes this cold weather either. Anyone ideas where fuse is for heated wing mirrors? And for heated wash jets??

Just seen this.

When did you last change your coolant as this really shouldn't be happening.

G12:water should be about 60:40 for winter temps even a 50:50 ratio should keep your coolant from freezing down to about -40*F

[g-black]

http://i626.photobucket.com/albums/tt349/gblackb6/Passat/92aa277a.jpg

http://i626.photobucket.com/albums/tt349/gblackb6/Passat/0d4fc3a1.jpg

This is in round the rear wheel on the old car. Just about shows some of the rust. The hubs/disks are quite bad and even on my 1 year old B6 there rusting already. Around the front lower bushes was the worst. I was able to pick lumps of it off.

[zollaf]

this cold weather will have no affect on a car whatsoever. -20 is nothing compared to what other parts of the world get, and they still have cars. firstly, you have to treat winter as winter, not summer. in summer, a dash of screenwash is fine, but in winter use concentrated screenwash neat and it wont freeze quite so readily. now is also a good time to check your coolant. if you have been topping it up all summer with tap water, then it will freeze. thats bad, as ice can crack an engine block.
the flexing of any vehicle occurs all year, not just in the winter. all you are hearing is the ice cracking, a bit like walking on frozen water. it can be a bit worrying, but its not a problem or fault.
as for getting the ice off your car, then thats up to you. i normally start mine 10 mins or so before going out and let the heaters do the work, then just scrape off the slightly thawed slush. as long as your windows are clear, and your lights, then you are good to go. you can use a blanket to cover your car, it will indeed stick a bit, but will normally just pull off, leaving clear glass.
honestly, the winter is not a problem, as cars are tested down to ridiculously cold temperatures. indeed salt that is put on the roads will corrode metal, but come the warmer weather and rain, it just gets washed off.
most importantly of all, drive with respect . ice can catch you out. drive slower than usual, dont brake hard and use lower gears and engine braking to descend hills. best of all fit proper winter tyres, and keep the car serviced. if it has a problem in the summer, then fix it in the summer, as come the winter, a small problem can become a major headache. also, be prepared to get stuck. take a blanket, some munchies, any medication you need, a flask of coffee, torch etc... those that go prepared usually come out alright. those that go out in a t-shirt often freeze to death. in russia, if yopu break down and cannot fix it yourself, you die. simple as that.

[g-black]

And the front disk and calliper as well.

http://i626.photobucket.com/albums/tt349/gblackb6/Passat/bc0db18d.jpg

This was after I had tried to clean it with soap and given it a rub down before I painted them.

[martin1810]

Zollaf thats all true if you own a landrover. If you own a passat you don't have to worry because it will get stuck as soon as jack frost breaths on the road.:biglaugh:

[zollaf]

i own 4 landrovers. !!!
my coupe is useless as well, until the snowsocks go on.

[Eshrules]

g-black, I literally lol'd. If that's the rust you're concerned about, you've got nothing to be worried about bud.

from those pictures, it seems to be typical surface rust. You want rust, I must start taking pictures of some of the sheds I work on.

Surface rust is to be expected, particularly on the suspension and brakes, I'd very surprised if I found any used car without any!

[podwin]

g-black, I literally lol'd. If that's the rust you're concerned about, you've got nothing to be worried about bud.

Mines the same g-black, don't worry about it, it'll be fine!

[ToMBoY_C]

Coolant froze:

http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e114/ToMBoY_C/ff0444f5.jpg

[g-black]

That's the only pictures of rust I had. Never got under the car much so never really got pics of the rest of it. I'm only worried about it on the brakes and hubs cause of the look of it.

Why about oil coming up to temperature? How long should it generally take? I did 20 miles yesterday in half an hour. Oil temp only said 58 after that length of time.

I know I'm panicking far to much, but I do spend alot of time money and effort in my car and just want it to last as long as possible in good condition.

[Quatrelle]

That's the only pictures of rust I had. Never got under the car much so never really got pics of the rest of it. I'm only worried about it on the brakes and hubs cause of the look of it.

You can start to worry when it gets like this:

http://www.vwaudiforum.co.uk/forum/[IMG]http://i154.photobucket.com/albums/s256/Quatrelle/Rust.jpghttp://i154.photobucket.com/albums/s256/Quatrelle/Rust.jpg

[dunkley201]

You can start to worry when it gets like this:

http://www.vwaudiforum.co.uk/forum/[IMG]http://i154.photobucket.com/albums/s256/Quatrelle/Rust.jpg

A rusty 'B' subframe with Aeroquip hoses! Get that grease gun pumping!

[Quatrelle]

Fortunately it's not mine - the MG parts supplier sent it to me as a guide to fitting the hoses.

The picture's useful though for making the point about surface rust and real rust!

[DSG4ME]

@ G, you might wanna check the rear again, it looks like a lot of muck of some sort at the front of the arch, and the shocker doesn't look to healthy either, all possibly just muck from the road, but worth a clean and check anyway.

@ Tom, you shouldn't drive it if the anti freeze isn't strong enough mate, years ago I've seen core plugs pop out and warped heads as the car didn't have any coolant working it's way around the lump, you can also burst a hose or do the rad in, I would be getting a watering can and some new AF to mix in it, and drain the existing, and refill.

Just had another look, I'd say coolant low rather than froze, your temp guage is reading normal, if it was froze it wouldn't move off the bottom.

[ToMBoY_C]

@ Tom, you shouldn't drive it if the anti freeze isn't strong enough mate, years ago I've seen core plugs pop out and warped heads as the car didn't have any coolant working it's way around the lump, you can also burst a hose or do the rad in, I would be getting a watering can and some new AF to mix in it, and drain the existing, and refill.

Just had another look, I'd say coolant low rather than froze, your temp guage is reading normal, if it was froze it wouldn't move off the bottom.

Yo Auto! ;)

Sounds like hard work draining it all down, I can get AL39 Antifreeze from work not a problem, however draining the old? Not my thing lol, unless there is like a nice chrome tap in an easy to get to place :D

As for the temp, I thought that temp was for oil temp? The gauge did drop back down but went up again. :beerchug:

[podwin]

As for the temp, I thought that temp was for oil temp? The gauge did drop back down but went up again. :beerchug:

Nooooo, it's defo water temp

[reynard55]

VW test the cars down to -40C as a matter of course during the development phase.
What we are seeing is a slight inconvenience compared with this!

[Stuart W]

Deffinatly think I'll have the underside of the car cleaned come spring.

A good drive on a rainy day will probably do as much good.

Regarding diluting the coolant by topping up with water, should anyone really be needing to top it up unless there's a problem of some kind?

Isn't the engine coolant in a modern car designed to last the life of the car?

[billythetidd]

Nooooo, it's defo water temp

Surely it's for oil. It goes away over 100C.

[Jamiem]

Definately water temp. It goes over 100 because a) there are assigned that prevent it from boiling at 100, and also because it's under pressure.

[podwin]

Surely it's for oil. It goes away over 100C.

Temperature dials in cars is always for water, unless you have additional gauges for oil.

If there is one temp gauge, is is water temp, 100% confident on that.

It is easy for water to go above 100 within a pressurised system as Jamiem says.

However, my car never moves above 90, so I'm surprised about that.

(Remember the 5 degree +/- damping on the gauge, which means it could go up to 94 without registering)