Oil changes etc.....

[Nice But]

Hi all, not sure if I'm posting in the right place as there doesn't seem to be an engine specific bit. Any road up, I tend to change the oil on my cars every 5-6K regardless of what the manufacturers say - force of habit I suppose done it for years - I have a 2.0T FSi Avant Quattro my question is - the car has done 97K miles:
Is it ok to use an engine flush before the oil change? The car was a motorway muncher so there is a residual colour to the oil even after 100 miles on new oil, I know it will never be 'clean' but I usually get cleaner oil than what i have now.

I also want to replace the gearbox and diff oil, any recomendations? I tend to use Fuch oils from Oilman (Opie oils) for the engine and silkolene race oils for gearbox and diffs. As the car has done a fair few miles in it's 4 years of life I want to help its lube systems....

TIA

Tim:beerchug:

[phil miller]

Engine flush you have opened a can of worms mate lol

here is my view, i will always use FORTE MOTOR FLUSH in my cars as over the last 17 yrs i have used this product and have seen the benefits, heres my point when you use the flush after putting the new oil in and running it for afew miles the oil is still clean, IVE NEVER HAD ANY PROBLEMS AFTER USING THIS PRODUCT ON ANY CAR, where i use to work we got thro about 20 flushes a month so that speaks for its self really

i cant comment on anyother flush the forte product is trade only (so they say) if you needed a can and covered the postage i can send you one bud, i look after the foute rep in my areas car lol

[fourringsrus]

Hi Tim, can of worms indeed.
What Phill says certainly sounds as though the flush he uses has served him well, but just to give you an alternative perspective, a couple of years ago I was changing the turbocharger on a Misubishi and was told in the strongest tone by the turbo remanufacturer that if I used a flush it would drag all the crappy bits straight through the new turbo and cause the seals to fail prematurely.
There was no answer when I asked "how premature" so I decide to do 6 or seven oil and filter changes with a somewhat cheaper than preffered grade of oil and then on the last change I used a decent quality oil and filter, this made sense as I had access to plenty of "cheaper " oil

[Nice But]

Oooh I do like cans of worms........ thanks for the replies guys. I can go with both to be honest, I have used it in really old mucky engines (I think it was Wynn's Phil) and yes it does eventually release old baked on crud - but this was in the days of 20W-50 oil which weren't much better than recycled chip fat :D.
I had a Mitsi Legnum VR4 twin turbo V6 which had a build up of crud but by todays standard was only a thin film from when the engine had been really working hard........;) I used Amsoil crankcase cleaner Clicky (http://www.performanceoilsltd.co.uk/crankcase_cleaner_engine_flush.html)
I can also see the logic in the cheap oil option, but maybe not on a turbo 'Fourrings'
As Audi and most new cars now have this horrendously long service interval and the engines tend to run a lot hotter than old ones too, the crud build up happens but not to the extent of the old oils.
My thinking is, for my 100K 2.0T is, follow manufacturers recommendations on flush (to the letter) then do again 4-6K miles later, this should help to clean the engine. Most flushes need you to run the engine @ 2000rpm ish for 5 mins to activate them properly. I just want to get my oil cleaner and reduce the risks of crud build up, once my oil is clean then it will stay clean because I am going to do my own service schedule......... 5-6K for engine and 12K for transmission....... once I find out how to drain the gearbox and diffs.
Thanks for the offer Phil can you PM me the cost of a couple of pots of the Forte......

Cheers

Tim

[Sloppy]

really depends on oilyou use, long life oil is what it says really! But is the sevice book you can use lower grades and do sorter i.e 10k intervals, persoanlly im gonna do 10k with the high spec greade al be it £40 along for the oil!

i have never used engine oil flushes only the tactic of cheap oils for a few k

Let me know how you get on with the diffs as i plan on doing them too (i have 2.0t quattro with over 100k). I was warned to use the vag stuff for this on another forum, and there were testimonials from a good few people saying you can literally feel the difference, think it was Redline 75W90 gear oil gl5.

I assume this is what vag use? not to sure.

[fourringsrus]

Yep when I say use cheaper oil ,all I did was a 10 mile run each day and then dropped the oil, I had an endless supply at work and it probably wasn't that cheap in quality as it is what we use to service all of our newish JCB's etc

[Nice But]

Let me know how you get on with the diffs as i plan on doing them too (i have 2.0t quattro with over 100k). I was warned to use the vag stuff for this on another forum, and there were testimonials from a good few people saying you can literally feel the difference, think it was Redline 75W90 gear oil gl5.

I assume this is what vag use? not to sure.

It will be over the next few weeks hopefully, trying to blag the use of a ramp for a few hours...... I had the discussion with The Oilman - Opie oils - at Castle coombe some time ago about VAG own make/specific oils. As long as the spec you use is equivalent or specc'd higher then there should be no issues. I have used Silkolene Race gearbox oil in 4 performance cars now so will go with that and Silkolene diff oil but can't remember which one, only that it was LSD specific. I get all my oils etc from Opie as they are so helpful and very keenly priced.


it probably wasn't that cheap in quality as it is what we use to service all of our newish JCB's etc

:D I doubt it was that cheap then...... nice if you have the option.

Cheers for the replies again guys.

[Sloppy]

It will be over the next few weeks hopefully, trying to blag the use of a ramp for a few hours...... I had the discussion with The Oilman - Opie oils - at Castle coombe some time ago about VAG own make/specific oils. As long as the spec you use is equivalent or specc'd higher then there should be no issues. I have used Silkolene Race gearbox oil in 4 performance cars now so will go with that and Silkolene diff oil but can't remember which one, only that it was LSD specific. I get all my oils etc from Opie as they are so helpful and very keenly priced.



:D I doubt it was that cheap then...... nice if you have the option.

Cheers for the replies again guys.

Let me know which you get, your supposed to use a gl4 for the gear box and a gl5 for the diff, i looks hard and halford suprisingly do a really good fully sunth castrol box oil for £15 which is same price as opie oils, however the diff oil is a big cheapo./

People rave about the redline synthetic oils 75w 90 for rear diff (GL5) and the redline MT90 for the box (GL4) supposed to be really good and oil man sells them but they are dear.

[Lateknight]

really depends on oilyou use, long life oil is what it says really! But is the sevice book you can use lower grades and do sorter i.e 10k intervals, persoanlly im gonna do 10k with the high spec greade al be it £40 along for the oil!
Rule of thumb for for 2.0T - use VW502.00 approved oil for fixed service(10k or less). This is usually a 5w/40 fully synthetic. The manual states you can use a VW505.00 approval, but I would only suggest this as an emergency measure only as this is approval for quite old oils now (15w/40 and 10w/40)
use VW504.00 approved oil for variable servicing. (Longlife). Tends to be a 5w/30 grade.
Nothing to stop you putting Longlife oil in on a fixed service regime. Its a very good oil, just a bit more expensive. to give you an idea, VW504.00 oil is the only oil Audi recommended oil for RS models, irrespective of service regime.
Look for the approval number on the labels of the oilcans, or on the website of the oil company your thinking of purchasing from. Avoid using oils that don't have these approvals.



I was warned to use the vag stuff for this on another forum, and there were testimonials from a good few people saying you can literally feel the difference, think it was Redline 75W90 gear oil gl5.

I assume this is what vag use? not to sure.

I don't think many people do. The bottles say nothing about spec. There is very rarely anything on ELSA (workshop manual). In Audis train of thought - why do you need to know the spec? Just use the relevant part number - you can see where they are coming from, its just not very helpful.

All I can tell you is that for gearoil you need pt.no G052911A2 (1ltr). Need 3ltrs for complete change.
For diff. you need pt.no. G052145A1* (0.5ltr)
* the diff oil is also available in 1ltr bottles (G052145S2), but is more expensive than 2x 0.5ltr bottles. :confused:

:beerchug:

[Nice But]

People rave about the redline synthetic oils 75w 90 for rear diff (GL5) and the redline MT90 for the box (GL4) supposed to be really good and oil man sells them but they are dear.

I have both Redline and Silkolene, Redline was left over from when I used to track my MX5, your right, expensive but good.

I'll have a look in the shed to see what Silkolene ones I have, register on the Opie site and you will get a discount. If you register from here (http://www.opieoils.co.uk/t-club-discount-scheme.aspx)you will get the discounts when logged in. they send you e mails with further discounts like extra 15% thats when i order all my oils for the year :D