176k almost 177k and still going strong. Hopefully my key is aligned perfectly and won't wear as fast as there's still 200k+ BLB's still going on original keys. I know it will fail, but its made it this far without failing so hopefully my previous point stands. The situation is always on the back of my mind regarding the oil pump situation. Oil pump delete or buying a gear driven re-furbished balance shaft unit with the uprated key.
The issue would have probably been fixed by now if it didn't require the sub-frame to be lowered and just the removal of the sump like on my previous Golf MK5. My friend who's more mechanically experienced than me mentioned possibly using the BKD block if my engine did decide to starve itself of oil.
Thank you very much for your kind words Novica. Unfortunately the Audi I bought has a little more rust than some of the A6's on the market. As I've previously mentioned I was a little sceptical about posting rust issues as no else seemed to have rust apart from me. I was tempted on just parting with the car and buying a 2.0L TDI Avant, but due to being a student I can't afford to keep changing cars, the car's mechanically good with all the main mechanical problems when a car is 140k+ being repaired.
My previous post about rust:
Should a 2005 Audi A6 (C6) be rusting this badly?
Yes the flywheel was the original one from the factory and looked fine with no burn marks, but was very loose and rattly. The rattles were noticeable when engaging the clutch and pulling away. The gearbox was fortunately not effected by the explosion of springs. My friends did the clutch job for my car but I did help wherever I could. The gearbox was slid onto one of the rear supports and didn't touch the ground at all during the change.
Here is the guide we used when changing the clutch and the flywheel:
How to change a clutch on a Audi A6 - Professional Motor Mechanic
I will keep the Dension 500BT in mind as an aftermarket solution. It's still tempting to go down the OEM route and just keep an eye for cheap AMI modules on eBay. There's been some pretty good bargains that I've missed out on
I was actually messing around with my passenger-side rear light today as it's letting in water and causing condensation on the lens. Supposedly according to one of the main topics in the forum the solution is to simply drill holes on the top or remove the black weather-seal for the bulb holder. I've removed the seal but will need to dry the light unit which shouldn't be too hard with the nice weather we've been having lately, I'll update when I get them clear.
Coming from a fellow saloon owner, have you got any tips on getting the black plastic trim for the rear lights to sit flush and engage properly on all its fastening points. I can get all the clips in apart from the bottom one and it's a very fiddly piece of plastic.