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  1. Cleaning the Intake Manifold.... 
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    Not really a problem as such, there have been many posts recently in regards to MAF related faults. a few threads have thrown up the common thing about the inlet manifold clogging up with the crap off the exhaust gases being recirced by the EGR...

    my question is , how hard is the inlet manifold to clean and should this be done as a matter of maintenance, like chaning oil and filters etc, should the inlet manifold be cleaned every so often?

    any replies appreciated

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  2. #2
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    i posted a thread on this a few weeks ago Carl. have a look for it...

    You can do it yourself..its about 5-6 hours of work if you work efficiently and involves taking apart all the pipes from the air intake to the engine, including the inlet manifold itself, and giving them a good clean..they will be very gunged up..and will require brake cleaner to get the crap out..

    Its a big job, and a little tricky which is why I dont dare attempt it..

    The boys over at tdiforums.com do it all the time and say the car drives like new afterwards..

    You're local garage will do it for £200....or thats what i was quoted..you'd best watch them though, as its a labour of love
    Golf Mark III TDI 1996
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  3. #3
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    Right... Cleaning the EGR... I have find this info.... have a read and if you are going to do it... do it at your own risk...



    This vehicle is equipped with a CCV (crankcase vent) system and an EGR (exhaust gas recirculation) system. Oily fumes from the CCV system can combine with carbon particles from the EGR system to form a black sticky tar in the intake system. This eventually starts restricting the amount of airflow into the engine, resulting in gradual power loss as the vehicle ages and the intake clogging becomes worse. In rare cases a MIL ("check engine" light) may be tripped, with an intake manifold pressure control code set, but normally this does not happen and no codes are set. Operating conditions, fuel quality, oil quality, driving habits, and general condition of the engine all have some effect on how long the intake system survives before clogging up. It can be prevented (see section 7.8 below) and this recalibration is highly recommended for all TDI owners. But if you didn't do that, and your vehicle is suffering from lack of power at higher engine speeds at all times, you need to clean the intake manifold. The following procedure is generic to all TDI vehicles. Individual vehicles may differ slightly.
    Don't even THINK about cleaning the intake manifold without removing it from the vehicle ... engines don't like breathing solid particles.
    CAUTION: This is an involved procedure. None of the steps are particularly difficult but the procedure requires diligent attention to how everything is disassembled in order that reassembly proceeds smoothly. Read the entire procedure before deciding upon whether to attempt it yourself. If you are not comfortable with the procedure, then arrange for it to be done by someone qualified. Expect to pay for several hours of shop time in that case, because that's what will be required.
    1. Remove the top engine cover. Since it may be necessary to access some bolts from underneath the vehicle, support the front of the vehicle securely on safety jack-stands and remove the lower engine cover.
    2. Disconnect the small-diameter black vacuum hose from the silver EGR diaphragm.
    3. On A3 and B4 vehicles, remove the screw that attaches the upper and lower intercooler pipes, unplug the temperature sensor located on the upper intercooler pipe, disconnect the small diameter hose from the upper intercooler pipe, unclamp both ends of both pipes and remove them from the vehicle.
    4. On A4 vehicles, unclamp and disconnect the upper intercooler pipe from the intake manifold adjacent to the EGR diaphragm and valve, and remove the rubber elbow from the vehicle.
    5. On A3 and B4 vehicles, remove the bolt that attaches the turbo intake pipe to the intake manifold. Release the hose clamp that attaches the turbo compressor outlet pipe to the turbo outlet, and pull the metal turbo compressor outlet pipe out of the vehicle. Cover the turbocharger so that no dirt can get into it.
    6. On vehicles not equipped with an EGR gas cooler, unbolt the EGR transfer pipe at both ends (exhaust manifold and EGR valve), and remove it from the vehicle. On vehicles equipped with an EGR gas cooler, unbolt and remove the EGR pipe from the exhaust manifold to the cooler, then unbolt and remove the EGR pipe from cooler to EGR valve, then unbolt the EGR cooler from the back of the intake manifold. Some of these bolts may require access from underneath the vehicle. Then swing the EGR cooler out of the way. The coolant hoses may be left attached to the EGR gas cooler.
    7. On A4 vehicles, disconnect the linkage at the anti-shudder valve and unbolt the solenoid and actuator assembly, and detach the EGR / antishudder housing from the intake manifold. It may prove easier to leave the solenoid and actuator devices connected to the vehicle but hanging loose. Remove the EGR / anti-shudder valve assembly from the vehicle.
    8. Remove the 6 bolts which secure the intake manifold to the engine. It will be necessary to bend a heat shield on the exhaust manifold out of the way to remove the 2 right-most bolts; this can be done with carefully-placed hits with a hammer on a long screwdriver. On some models, it will be necessary to remove the oil feed line to the turbocharger in order to access one of the bolts. The fitting at the turbocharger will probably be seized and will let go with a sharp "crack" upon applying firm pressure. Use a wrench which fits well over the fitting so that it doesn't slip. Cover the oil feed to the turbo, and protect the oil pipe, so that no dirt can enter either component.
    9. Remove the intake manifold from the vehicle after confirming that nothing else is in the way.
    10. The intake manifold can be cleaned out by a number of methods. Paint remover, acetone, and other solvents can be used to soften the goop. (Do this away from anything that may be damaged by the nasty solvents and away from any ignition sources due to their flammable vapours!) A high-pressure washer is useful. Bead-blasting has also been used but make sure all the beads are out of there before re-installing the manifold on the engine.
    11. Debris also accumulates in the inlet ports of the cylinder head, but these are very difficult to clean without getting too much debris into the engine. One method that has been suggested involves placing cotton balls just inside the ports, cutting a bevel in the crud so there is not such an abrupt transition, and sucking the balls and cut-off bits of crud out with a shop vacuum.
    12. Assembly is generally the reverse of removal. If you had to remove the turbo oil feed line, make sure you reconnect it, and don't over-tighten the fitting at the turbo. It will not be possible to get a torque wrench on most fasteners, so use common sense when re-installing the bolts. You don't need a new intake manifold gasket.

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  4. #4
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    bugger me will have a chat with the brother and see how confident he is.... as for the actual procedure is there a definitive way of knowing if it needs doing and what kind of variables add to it.... i know general driving conditions and all the rest of it..... etc etc, but will it occur anyway, over time? so say, a 6 year old car, would it need doing definitely?

    obi jesus didnt realise it was so complicated

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    im getting the garage to do it because i think £200 is alright for something that will restore the car to "like new". Im sure ill generate more costs if I screw things up...

    Carl, most people who know/care about their motors start getting it cleaned at about 80k-100k... half way through the cars life. At 80k...it would have 80,000 miles worth of dirty air circulating within it..

    Some of the photos ive seen have been horrific..you wonder how the engine ever got air into it! You'll be able to tell if it needs doing if the rest of the car is in form but, you're noticing it's not driving like it used too...

    Also if its getting smokier..thats often a tell tale sign
    Golf Mark III TDI 1996
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  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by NicholasP View Post
    im getting the garage to do it because i think £200 is alright for something that will restore the car to "like new". Im sure ill generate more costs if I screw things up...

    Carl, most people who know/care about their motors start getting it cleaned at about 80k-100k... half way through the cars life. At 80k...it would have 80,000 miles worth of dirty air circulating within it..

    Some of the photos ive seen have been horrific..you wonder how the engine ever got air into it! You'll be able to tell if it needs doing if the rest of the car is in form but, you're noticing it's not driving like it used too...

    Also if its getting smokier..thats often a tell tale sign
    well i dont know how it 'used' to drive, ive only had it about 4 1/2 months but im thinking something just isnt quite right, it just doesnt feel quite right, luks like thats the next thing to do once my paintwork is sorted then..... will ave the money come xmas LOL

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  7. #7
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    Alright well ill get it done and tell you if its worth it..my cars at 150 and runs well...but has become very smokey so im hoping this is the solution!
    Golf Mark III TDI 1996
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    The info RickT posted is from www.tdiclub.com just for reference.

    I plan to do this but there can be major snags Ie studs not comming undone/breaking and other fastners etc.

    So if you don't have the correct tools or are a little unsure. Trust it to a professional as rick said.

    Rob
    Last edited by onzarob; 08-03-2007 at 06:59 PM. Reason: url incorrect!!


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  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by NicholasP View Post
    Alright well ill get it done and tell you if its worth it..my cars at 150 and runs well...but has become very smokey so im hoping this is the solution!
    ta will be handy to know just how much of a difference it makes matey

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  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by Lisa B8 View Post
    Carl i may be right out of touch here, but Andy cleaned the inlet and lots of other bits to that Audi we have shortly after we got and it only took him a couple of hours , and he didnt make it look that bigger deal, i know lots of crap came out of lots of pipes ect, as he used my new bucket
    But he wont be back untill some time tomorrow, maybe he`ll send you a pm, what about Sean he`s pretty up on things?
    good idea, ill grab sean at the meet and demand he does it lOL

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