2001 Allroad 2.5tdi AKE timing belt tensioner failure

[skyegtb]

Yep just an amateur but my hobby is car restoration so I am probably a little bit above an average amateur! I spend more time cleaning parts than putting stuff back together, it's almost a bit of an obsession..... For the oil pump chain I remembered that I had previously removed the sump on my old AKE engine and I took a few snaps at the time. The pictures show a nice tight chain with no slack... Unfortunately for me this means I am going to have to undo all of todays work to remedy the loose chain on my 'new' engine, probably I will swap everything from my old engine on to the new one and fit a new chain too. I am starting to get quite fed up with the way things are going with this job!

For the seal, try this link - this is where I got my parts from and it gives the spec. but the sizes do not seem quite right. I should get a change to measure my old seal tomorrow and will report back

Search by original / genuine spare part number

Sorry, that link didn't work but here is a list of part number so you can search the details yourself if you like.
Analogs/Substitutes of AUDI 059103171D

Manufacturer	Number	Description
AJUSA	71003100	Shaft Seal, crankshaft
BGA	OC6372	Shaft Seal, crankshaft
CORTECO	19036303B	Shaft Seal, crankshaft
ELRING	750330	Bent shaft epiploon
MALO	1162PTF	Shaft Seal, crankshaft
SKODA	059103171D	Shaft Seal, crankshaft
VOLKSWAGEN	059103171D	Shaft Seal, crankshaft

[ametlib]

You sure about timing the oil pump is needed ? There is a rudimentary balancer shaft but there are no marks on the chains or sprokets... I have done many v6 tdi engines, none needed timing the oil pump.

The chain is very slack, get a new crank housing gasket and replace the chain, i am rebuilding a high mileage BDG engine at the garage, took the sump off to check and clean the sump- the chain was really tight compared with yours ! On my allroad, the old engine was worn, it dropped a valve and when i took it off, the chain was stretched badly, it was at 190k with a few Longlife stamps in the book...

No, there is no way or need to time the pump itself, only the balancer must be in the right position to the crank, but I saw now by looking at the pics that the OP is aware of this

[skyegtb]

If you look at the pictures again you will note that there is a drill bit locking the balance shaft, so it was all set up correctly.

[skyegtb]

I measured the seal as best as i could and it appears to be: OD 105mm, ID 85mm, Thickness 12.5mm

[skyegtb]

Well, since my last post I stripped the oil pump and chain off the engine again and swapped over the complete assembly from my old engine and re-fitted with a new chain - it's all nice and tight now! Since then I have installed the engine back in the car and today I had a go at starting it. I bled the fuel pump following the instructions from the workshop manual, i.e. powering the in tank pump by putting 12V through fuse 28 then blocking off the return pipes at the fuel filter etc. I wasted about an hour trying to get fuel to come out of the return pipe at the fuel pump so in the end I used a hand operated syphon pump to pull the fuel through the fuel pump and in to a bucket. After pulling a couple of litres through this way I tried to start the engine. I think it took about 5 attempts, each time cranking for 7-10 seconds until it finally started. When it was running I thought something was seriously wrong as it was sitting at about 400rpm and the accelerator pedal was not working!!! I stopped the car, ran a scan on my VAGCOM and cleared the codes (there were lots, mostly related to low voltage and open circuits etc). Started it again and still the same.... Anyway, long story short, after running the engine for about 3 minutes and slowly squirting a little bit of carb cleaner spray in the intake (I had the MAF and airbox removed) the revs started to rise. When it was revving at 600rpm the accelerator started working again so I raised the revs to around 2000 for a minute or so. After that it is now acting completely fine, it starts almost instantly at the turn of the key and idles smoothly at 800rpm. I checked the fuel pump timing with VAGCOM after the temperature was over 85 degrees and all was good, it was sitting at -2.2 degrees and VAGCOM reported this to be in spec. I may tweak this again later as it is easy enough to pop the pump belt cover on an allroad.


At present I have no exhaust attached to the car, just the primary cat (which is gutted) so it sounds pretty rough, but it is steady and smooth at idle and when revving so I'm very happy. Unfortunately I discovered one of my engine mounts was burst (last 2 pics below) so I have decided to leave the car in the service position until my replacement mount arrives then I will put the front end back together and fit the downpipe etc. Maybe next week I will be able to take it for it's MOT again... As mentioned at the beginning of this thread I was on my way for it's MOT when I suffered the problems that lead me to having to replace the engine! Hopeully I will have more luck next time1 Anyway, here are a few pics. I will report back again when I get the car back on the road. Thanks to all who offered me advice during this job, it was greatly appreciated.

[ametlib]

Wow!! Have never seen an engine that clean on the inside !!!! Great job, and let me tell you, this job was too big and complicated for an average DIY guy!!!! Nothing average about the way this was done! , congrats.

[bluezie]

Excellent! looks like it's all heading for a happy ending
I should imagine the starting hicups were air in the fuel not allowing the engine to pick up enough speed to get out of the starting Injected quantity, and move on to running mode when the throttle kicks in.
There must be an RPM threshold where the engine changes from starting to running.

[skyegtb]

Just to finish off this thread, on Monday I fitted the new engine mount and also swapped out the oil cooler due to a small water leak and today put the car through it's MOT. I'm happy to say it passed with flying colours and no advisories. The new BDG engine is brilliant so far, a lot less tappety sounding than my old AKE and the performance is spot on too. Here's hoping for no more major issues for a long time!