Looking to buy a 2.0 tdi engine soon HELP PLEASE

**Crasher** · 17-07-2014,10:02 AM

Originally Posted by stevegrass777

That picture of the top of the engine makes me think why didn't they bridge both exhaust valves and bridge both inlet valves then they would only need one lobe for inlet one for exhaust instead of those little roller things they put on top of the valves.

Reciprocating mass (high rpm valve train instability) and cam lobe surface area loading (excessive wear) which these cams never seem to suffer from, so far bullet proof.

**markspark71** · 17-07-2014,04:56 PM

Well ive been over to where the car is stored this afternoon and I can confirm that the engine does turn over with a bar on the crank, I didn't strip it today as I was on limited time. Can someone explain the flywheel on the auto it seems to have a dual mass its not like the autos ive seen in the past. Is the crank nut left hand thread or just normal

**Crasher** · 18-07-2014,02:20 PM

That is why I said it may need a new flywheel as they do fail on the CVT.

**stevegrass777** · 18-07-2014,07:56 PM

The crank bolt is normal thread so anti clockwise to undu and it needs replacing ,it can be very very tight ,it seems to get stuck on the shoulders of the bolt.You don't need to be frightened of normal turning of the engine with it it just so tight once its been in a wile.

**markspark71** · 20-07-2014,11:46 PM

Got the crank bolt out no problem with a snap-on gun will deffo need a new one tho as the teeth/splines are a tad damaged, I didn't have the 5mm ball allen key to remove the 2 sump bolts near the flywheel so im now waiting for delivery of one. I will then update the post with my findings

**stevegrass777** · 21-07-2014,06:59 PM

It depends how stuck they get,I tried with a snap on gun that can undo truck wheel nuts and it didn't budge it.I wasn't very amused and ended up using a jack a 3/4" t bar and a sledge hammer and a piece of tube.
That small bolt deserves to be changed after taking all that punishment.

**markspark71** · 23-07-2014,10:38 PM

Quick update engine repair is on hold for 2 weeks due to work commitments I will update when I get more info

**Crasher** · 24-07-2014,12:10 PM

That's the constant pain, lots of time (no work) = No money, having money = No time, the law according to that chap sod!

**markspark71** · 31-07-2014,11:00 PM

Well ive had the chance to do a bit today managed to remove the sump, balance shaft assembly and the sprocket, the sprocket was a bit of a pig to get off I had to use a small grinder in the end but at least its off now. I did have the chain drive balance shaft assemblies and the tensioner had snapped off on the end causing the chain to rattle and in turn wearing out the sprocket mounted on the crank shaft

**stevegrass777** · 01-08-2014,08:53 AM

Originally Posted by markspark71

Well ive had the chance to do a bit today managed to remove the sump, balance shaft assembly and the sprocket, the sprocket was a bit of a pig to get off I had to use a small grinder in the end but at least its off now. I did have the chain drive balance shaft assemblies and the tensioner had snapped off on the end causing the chain to rattle and in turn wearing out the sprocket mounted on the crank shaft

its nice to find something wrong,it makes all the troubles worth wile.
Getting the sprocket off or gear off is the most difficult so you have done well to get it off.
It is worth wile to look at at least one big end wile you are there just to see the health of the engine,although you will need to ensure the big end cap gets put on the same way when put back.Also you can get quality kolbenshmidt big ends for about £25-£35.but you do need new bolts.