2001 1.9TDI power problem, freezing trip computer and starting problem

[chapster]

Hi everyone,

I'm new to VWs with my first ever - a Passat 1.9 TDi 2001 100HP model. It's got a few problems I want to put right if anyone could help please?

1. Not much power, especially when going even slightly uphill. Can drop to 3rd and floor it but it won't go any faster, such as when doing 40mph and road inclined slightly, could not go faster. I'm assuming no turbo boost or limp home mode perhaps brought on by excessive boost? I have seen no smoke at all under any conditions so far. I connected a manometer and a vacuum pump to one of the vacuum lines this evening in the dark quickly and pulled a vacuum which instantly disappeared so assuming this isn't right and I have split pipes or something? The glowplug dash light is not lit or flashing or anything. I've also read that AMM or MAP sensor failure can cause this fault?

2. The trip computer that shows MPG, etc., on the dash display and is controlled using the up and down buttons on the wiper stalk keeps freezing on one setting, and will not respond to the buttons to toggle through the different readings. It's got worse lately and now freezes on a setting the moment I press either button.

3. When I start the car, there is a loud beeping that lasts a couple of seconds after it starts. What is that about?

4. For the first time today, after parking the car and returning to it a few minutes later, the engine caught on the turn of the key then instantly died. It did this twice before catching properly. Any ideas?

5. A pipe had split completely that connected to a device with a little plastic arm going to a large pipe which I believe is an inlet manifold flap controlling air flow into the intake manifold? I didn't think diesels controlled airflow into the engine? No difference now I cut the split section out, but then I may have neglible vacuum on any of the vacuum pipe side if my test tonight is accurate.

6. Any vacuum pipe diagrams available for this engine? If I connect my manometer in line with one of the vacuum pipes, what vacuum measurement should I expect to see in inHg or whatever is preferred pressure readout?

I want to be able to read the fault codes. What is the cheapest - but does the job - scan tool I can buy? Any special instructions? I see ebay do a £7 or so cable that requires some sort of software, but also for £40 there is a handheld scan device claiming it'll do all VWs from 1990 onwards. Either any good?

Bit of a learning curve for me, but so far impressed with the VW. I'd like a more modern Passat but this will certainly do for now if I can cure its few faults!

Sorry for so many questions, thanks in advance for any answers.

[Doctle Odd]

Get a member to do a scan with VCDS and post the codes, those fleabay cables are NWAF and I can tell you the first three letters mean not worth a ...Go along your vacuum pipes in daylight check for splits and loose joints. There's little more advice that anyone well me can give until it's scanned. The beeping could be anything from low screen washer onward. Your wiper switch may need replacing and I think the split pipe you speak of may be a crankcase blow-pass pipe, a photo would help

[chapster]

Is there a section where members with diagnostic interfaces give their details? I'm in North Wales so don't expect anyone nearby.

I've bought some 3mm ID vacuum hose ready to replace some of the piping under the bonnet as most of the pipes are splitting on the ends and crazed. The one that had split completed came from what auto data says is an intake manifold air control solenoid. Other end of the pipe went to a vacuum canister with a plastic arm coming from it which I believe moves a throttle flap in the air inlet ducting?

When the beeping happens there are no lights illuminated on the dash at the time, except the handbrake light as the handbrake is applied. I thought screen wash illuminates a windscreen icon on the dash?

You might be right about the wiper buttons being faulty, but it didn't seem that way. The information on the display not only stuck on one setting, but also jumped through the settings rapidly by itself and just behaved oddly before becoming stuck again on current MPG. Much like a freezing computer will suddenly 'catch up' after multiple button presses, mouse clicks, etc.

I'll take some photos tomorrow in the daylight, batteries on charge as we speak. Incidentally, do these old cars have rear view mirrors without a little tab that moves the mirror to darken reflection and reduce glare, or has my tab been broken off by some gorilla?

[Doctle Odd]

VWAF User Location Map - VCDS - Google Maps You need to scan first even. If you start replacing parts at random it won't work as a fault code will still be stored. I await your pictures, and your dash its-self could be faulty

[smithy602179]

i think that vac pipe was the one to the anti shudder valve attached to the egr valve that you can see . its on offside of engine towards rear of car and looks like a silver saucer from above.

[martin1810]

6. Any vacuum pipe diagrams available for this engine? If I connect my manometer in line with one of the vacuum pipes, what vacuum measurement should I expect to see in inHg or whatever is preferred pressure readout?

I want to be able to read the fault codes. What is the cheapest - but does the job - scan tool I can buy? Any special instructions? I see ebay do a £7 or so cable that requires some sort of software, but also for £40 there is a handheld scan device claiming it'll do all VWs from 1990 onwards. Either any good?

If you have a vavuum pump pump up gently and watch the setting to make sure it stays constant. You are looking for a leak, not a value.
Buy a cheap vag-com cable on ebay from a supplier that has sold lots. That will work fine on your car and cost very little. You can run it on a lap top or even a pc with a long lead.

[KieranM]

I'm potentially nearby, I have VCDS-lite, I can do an auto scan.

[chapster]

Thanks for the replies everyone. I've now bought a cheap lead off eBay so will download VCDS-Lite and put it on my laptop. Kieran, I don't suppose I'll need a scan now if the eBay one does the trick, but thanks, I appreciate it. Actually you aren't far away, I'm down near Tremadog, and I see you're not far from Bangor so quite close, 45 mins, maybe an hour or so.

I connected my vacuum pump to one of the hoses I popped off what I think must be the vac side and as soon as I pull a vacuum it returns back to atmospheric level immediately, so looks like I do have a leak or leaks, and bad ones at that.

I'll take a pic of that valve that had the broken tube, but I suppose if I'm losing vacuum so fast, it makes no odds as nothing relying on the vacuum side of things will be working I suppose?

I did a search about the beeping at engine start and found posts with this problem that stated it's to do with the alarm and the cause is a dying battery. I've noticed the engine is struggling to turn over when I start it, so maybe my battery is on the way out. Arrgh, more expense...

[ibb]

The boosting issue sounds similar to what I had on my Passat, it was indeed a vacuum pipe causing it.

I don't know if this is similar to your starting up then engine dieing issue but on a Merc C220 CDI I used to have, it would start straight up from cold then die straight away, then eventually start up again, it was air getting in to one of the fuel lines-in this case it was the one from the fuel filter to the fuel pump, don't know if it's the same set up on a VW.
Also it wouldn't start sometimes until it was cranked over a lot a few months later, this turned out to be leaky injectors, not sure if this could be the cause here too?, if it's a PD engine it's less likely I think?, as they have a different set up.

[caldirun]

Thanks for the replies everyone. I've now bought a cheap lead off eBay so will download VCDS-Lite and put it on my laptop. Kieran, I don't suppose I'll need a scan now if the eBay one does the trick, but thanks, I appreciate it. Actually you aren't far away, I'm down near Tremadog, and I see you're not far from Bangor so quite close, 45 mins, maybe an hour or so.

I connected my vacuum pump to one of the hoses I popped off what I think must be the vac side and as soon as I pull a vacuum it returns back to atmospheric level immediately, so looks like I do have a leak or leaks, and bad ones at that.

I'll take a pic of that valve that had the broken tube, but I suppose if I'm losing vacuum so fast, it makes no odds as nothing relying on the vacuum side of things will be working I suppose?

I did a search about the beeping at engine start and found posts with this problem that stated it's to do with the alarm and the cause is a dying battery. I've noticed the engine is struggling to turn over when I start it, so maybe my battery is on the way out. Arrgh, more expense...

Its a dead battery, you need to connect to the correct pipe to check the vac circuit as some are open to atmosphere at times.
Check this diagram

Vac circuit.jpg

1. Vacuum unit for shut-off valve
2. Exhaust gas recirculation valve (mechanical)
3. Exhaust gas recirculation valve (N18)
4. Brake servo
5. Non-return valve
6. Tandem pump
7. Cylinder head
8. Intake manifold
9. Intake manifold change-over vacuum unit
10. Intake manifold flap change-over valve(N239)
11. Air cleaner
12. Charge pressure control solenoid valve (N75)
13. Non-return valve. White connection to charge pressure control solenoid valve item 12 and to vacuum reservoir
14. Vacuum reservoir
15. Charge air cooler
16. Pressure unit on turbo
17. Turbocharger

Go into any pipe that directly connects to 14, Vac res, max vac should hold for minutes.