2001 1.9TDI power problem, freezing trip computer and starting problem

[caldirun]

My new battery arrived today and I fitted it. The tiny one I removed was only 320A, the replacement was 600A or more, can't recall exact figure. Now it starts perfectly, turns over fast, and the dash display doesn't black out during cranking.

So far fixed battery problem and turbo not boosting at all problem (vacuum leak). Will replace all vacuum pipes when new pipe arrives, see if I can reduce the current vacuum leakage and see if that improves turbo response before looking into that any further.

Outstanding is driver's seatbelt not retracting without lots and lots of help, and stereo sound only coming out of driver's door speaker.

Incidentally, can the stock radio/cassette player be replaced easily with a third party stereo?

Check the brake servo diaphragm housing for rusting (start engine with vac gauge connected in a visible position, stop engine and watch vac it should hold, press brake pedal, if a rapid drop on gauge the servo is suspect) , common problem as the plenum chamber has a habit of flooding, did you remove the rubber one-way valves below the battery tray when you replaced the battery?
The seat belt problem seems to be lub related, my belt retracts when the car is warm and sticks when cold (there are posts telling you a clean of the belt cures this, don't believe it, I have cleaned mine and it stills sticks) I am considering removing and re-lubing the mech.
The radio cassette unit can be easily replaced, conversion looms are available but its just ignition feed and permanent live that are swapped and you have to take care that the diagnostic wire is not connected to anything (do a search on this forum "after market radio")

[Doctle Odd]

I forgot about the aftermarket problem read this first Ross-Tech: VCDS: Afterrmarket Radio Problem

Check the brake servo diaphragm housing for rusting (start engine with vac gauge connected in a visible position, stop engine and watch vac it should hold, press brake pedal, if a rapid drop on gauge the servo is suspect) , common problem as the plenum chamber has a habit of flooding, did you remove the rubber one-way valves below the battery tray when you replaced the battery?
The seat belt problem seems to be lub related, my belt retracts when the car is warm and sticks when cold (there are posts telling you a clean of the belt cures this, don't believe it, I have cleaned mine and it stills sticks) I am considering removing and re-lubing the mech.
The radio cassette unit can be easily replaced, conversion looms are available but its just ignition feed and permanent live that are swapped and you have to take care that the diagnostic wire is not connected to anything (do a search on this forum "after market radio")

[chapster]

I'll check the servo. The right-angled vacuum hose piece that connects to the servo is split at the base, but I think there's a separate inner section so it isn't leaking vacuum but I will check by applying my vacuum pump to the start of the pipe and putting vacuum to the servo with the gauge attached.

I can't yet pull a vacuum that holds on the whole network of pipes. It doesn't drop immediately like it did before I connected the pipes the correct way on that solenoid, but it still drops quite quickly. My new 3mm ID vacuum hose arrived today so tomorrow I shall fit it and see if that helps. I'm going to test each vacuum connection one by one if necessary until I find where the leaks are, whether it's hose or valves leaking.

What's the plenum chamber and how does it flood? I must admit I didn't notice any rubber one-way valves under the battery. Why do they need removing? I changed the battery at work in the dark with a torch as a rush job so didn't look around too much.

Those seat belt cleaning posts: I saw them and have bought some rubber and vinyl silicone spray as suggested by someone to use on the belt material itself, so I'll give it a try but I think the same as you - the mechanism itself needs lubricating.

I can't see how to remove the stock stereo, no holes or gaps in the sides as found on aftermarket types? I did find today that the passenger and rear speakers have come back to life, although both nearside tweeters weren't working. However, after slamming the rear door closed then re-opening it, the rear tweeter came to life - this didn't work on the passenger door. I think I need to get inside the doors and check connections. Got a Haynes manual on the way.

Even though the turbo boost seems late at over 2k rpm, it's not too bad to drive now I have boost back. Getting more pleased with the car as I get these things fixed. Thanks to everyone for the help so far, I do appreciate it!

*EDIT* Just remembered, last night my friend helping me do battery noticed oil drops on the floor. There is oil all over a setup right-side bottom of car if looked at from front. There is a rubber hose connected to a metal or plastic pipe or something that runs along the front of the engine bay at the bottom beneath the radiator, and this rubber hose and part of the pipe are covered in oil. Because of the engine tray I can't properly see what's going on and there's so much stuff about that I can't see where the hose comes from or what it might be part of. Doesn't help the car sits low and so I can't get my head under much to see what's what. Any ideas?

[Doctle Odd]

Remove the bottom cover. The pipe that's leaking oil remove the clip at the inter-cooler (weird radiator) and allow the oil to drain. This is perfectly normal. when it's drained put a new jubilee clip on it. The plenum is the chamber where the battery goes. there are 2 drainage holes that are very small and get blocked. You can make a special tool to clear them using a wire coat hanger! Here is a link showing how to remove a single din radio Car Stereo Fitting | Car Stereo Removal | Remove Car Stereo Advice | Fit Car Stereo Help if you don't have the removal keys make 2 "U" shaped thingies out of the remaining coat hanger or use feeler blades etc. If the servo pipe isn't perfect change it brakes are safety critical and when you have it going properly you'll need proper anchors.

[chapster]

Thanks for the info. You're right, the braking system is vital so I'll see where to get a replacement servo hose.

Is that pipe definitely from the turbo outlet as it's on the opposite side of the car to the turbo? I hope my turbo isn't leaking oil excessively from the impeller shaft seal.

I just tried playing more with VCDS but my laptop battery is faulty and it died after minutes. But I did get to see that since clearing the fault codes and driving the car to work, no more have been logged.

I was looking through the 'blocks' in the engine section. In block 7, the various temp sensor readings are showing. Outside it is currently around 1.5 degrees C and the car hasn't been used for 6 hours. The coolant temp sensor reading was showing as 2.5 C so not far off. The fuel temp sensor was showing as 11.7 C so quite far off. The air intake temp sensor was showing 14.4 C so even more out. Is this usual or are the sensors likely out of tolerance from age? Incidentally, this is without car engine running, just ignition switched on.

Another block was showing two pressure sensor readings, one 999mbar and another 1024mbar or around that.

I want to follow a page I found on the VCDS website detailing making logs while driving and then using excel to plot graphs to see if AMM, MAP, etc are working correctly. Incidentally, does this car use a MAF/AMM type that has a heated element cooled by passing air, or is the GSF info correct and it's just a flap whose deflection affects a potentiometer and thus shows airflow through the unit? Would think they're more robust and less likely to fail.

Anything in particular I should check using this diagnostic cable and VCDS Lite software? I'm enjoying using it just a shame about laptop, must buy a new one.

[KieranM]

New batteries are fairly reasonable on eBay, just have to make sure it matches up with the voltage and the other stuff. Search for your laptop make, model and battery. Original is best, but I've had a couple of non Acer ones and they've been fine.

[smithy602179]

seatbelt problem can be eased by using sponge and hot soapy water and pulling belt through sponge , read it on here somewhere apparently and did it on mine and belt now retracts properly .

[Doctle Odd]

Get a charger cable that works from your cigarette lighter, My laptop battery is crap, I was using an extension cable until my VCDS was relocated.

[chapster]

Update on all issues in case it helps someone else reading this:

1. Not much power, especially when going even slightly uphill: It was a faulty MAF/AMM sensor. Original Bosch replacement cured it.

2. The trip computer freezes: Still have not resolved. Am planning on removing instrument panel to see if anything obvious such as dry joints or high ESR capacitors.

3. When I start the car, there is a loud beeping: Battery was low, eventually found it was due to starter motor stud connections being corroded. Cable goes from battery to starter stud, and from starter stud to alternator.

4. The engine caught on the turn of the key then instantly died: MAF/AMM replacement and cleaning stuck turbo vane mechanism cured this.