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  1. #1
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    EGR valve removal

    I finally got around to removing the EGR valve and cleaning it today, this is the first time it has been off in 176k miles so I was expecting it to be quite gunked up. It was fairly simple to remove; With both the engine cover removed and the plastic cover on the right hand side of the engine bay I then removed the 2 vacuum pipes and removed the clip off the intercooler hose and pulled this out of the EGR valve. Next I removed the 3 Allen bolts holding the EGR valve to the inlet manifold (the bottom one looks as though it is awkward to reach but proved to be fairly straight forward using an Allen key) and then removed the 2 x 12mm bolts holding the the pipe from the bottom of the EGR valve to the exhaust pipe. This is how the valve looked when removed:







    It wasn't as bad as I expected considering the mileage! I decided not to remove the inlet manifold as it looked fairly clean with just a light coating of carbon inside.







    Next came the messy part! I spent about 2 hours scrubbing and scraping the inside of the valve until it was spotless. It's best to wear latex gloves for this part - I used a metal scraper to remove all the old carbon. Once all the excess deposits were removed, I used an old toothbrush and a combination of Gunk engine cleaner and a carb cleaner aerosol spray to get the inside clean.







    Then it was just a case of reassembling everything in the reverse order. I also replaced my coolant temp sensor with a new one prior to taking the EGR off. This wasn't as difficult as I expected it to be but would have been much easier had I taken the EGR off first. The plastic clip slides off towards the bottom of the car (I prised the clip out using a flat bladed screwdriver), the sensor then pulls out towards the drivers side inner wing (make sure the old o ring is removed) and then you quickly fit the new sensor complete with o ring before you lose too much coolant! It's just a bit fiddly as you can only really get one hand in due to where the sensor is located. Here's a picture and a video of where the sensor is located.



    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_USGW04fQtw

    I don't think there was much wrong with the old coolant temperature sensor - the only reason I changed it is because when the engine is up to full temperature the sensor is only reading 81C when you check the measuring blocks on Vag-Com. The new one only cost 12 for a genuine Febi sensor of Ebay so at least I know it is working correctly now.

  2. Thanks powerband, Dazzler01, TDIQuattro1, JimC64, martin1810 thanked for this post
  3. The Following 5 Users Say Thank You to PeteK For This Useful Post:

    Dazzler01 (15-06-2011), JimC64 (28-04-2011), martin1810 (23-04-2011), powerband (27-02-2012), TDIQuattro1 (16-05-2011)

  4. #2
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    Re: EGR valve removal

    Wow...Can you come and do my oven next.

  5. #3
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    Re: EGR valve removal

    I'll pass on that thanks Martin! I do recommend getting a tin of carb cleaner to do this job though, once all the heavy deposits have been scraped off it just disolves the remaining carbon with very little effort.

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  8. #4
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    Re: EGR valve removal

    [QUOTE=PeteK;638304]


    It wasn't as bad as I expected considering the mileage! I decided not to remove the inlet manifold as it looked fairly clean with just a light coating of carbon inside.




    I would recommend doing the inlet manifold, its difficult to see whats inside without taking it off! I did mine with a lot less miles on and it was well choked inside.

  9. #5
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    Re: EGR valve removal

    To be honest, I think it looks worse than it actually was in that picture. I don't really have the equipment to clean the inside of the manifold properly as i'm guessing that certain parts of the inlet tracts are inaccessible with a scraper? I didn't want to start scraping at any deposits and then leaving some bits inside which then may dislodge and go into the engine, also I don't have a pressure washer which may be beneficial in cleaning this part. The light carbon deposits that were present should not cause any problems and were not restricing airflow in any way. My car does benefit from regular high speed runs and I always try to take the revs to about 2500rpm between gearchanges and give it a short blast every day which I think helps to keep everything nice and clean - personally I think that they tend to gunk up more when the engines are pottered around at very low rpm and not allowed to breathe properly.

  10. #6
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    Re: EGR valve removal

    Quote Originally Posted by PeteK View Post
    To be honest, I think it looks worse than it actually was in that picture. I don't really have the equipment to clean the inside of the manifold properly as I'm guessing that certain parts of the inlet tracts are inaccessible with a scraper? I didn't want to start scraping at any deposits and then leaving some bits inside which then may dislodge and go into the engine, also I don't have a pressure washer which may be beneficial in cleaning this part. The light carbon deposits that were present should not cause any problems and were not restricting airflow in any way. My car does benefit from regular high speed runs and I always try to take the revs to about 2500rpm between gear changes and give it a short blast every day which I think helps to keep everything nice and clean - personally I think that they tend to gunk up more when the engines are pottered around at very low rpm and not allowed to breathe properly.
    The inlet manifold does not get hot enough to carbonise the deposits, I used a brass bristle brush wound with steel (like a bottle brush but mean!).
    A shallow bath of white spirit and its a nice easy job (gets everywhere though).
    I repeat, what you see at the inlet is nothing to what is around the outlets into the head.

  11. #7
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    Re: EGR valve removal

    Hi Pate,
    as discussed in our pm's and also after reviewing your excellent write up, I performed the EGR clean up today on my wife's 54 plate 1.9 tdi Passat.
    It had been showing "Emmissions workshop" message in the display as well as the Engine management light being on.

    Anyhow, after a few hours of removing, cleaning, then replacing the EGR we went for a drive....both lights stayed on however, but after 2 or 3 stop / start cycles they both disappeared, so it seems like job done.
    Many thanks for your excellent write up.....I'm sure it will help many others too.
    Cheers
    Jim

    MY2008 (58) XJ X358 2.7 Tdvi Sovereign
    LWB remapped to 245bhp, Black, Ivory leather interior with black piping, 20" Alloys
    MY2007 Audi A6 2.0 Tdi SE (BRE)
    176bhpStratos Blue.Front & Rear park assist,Comms Pack High,19" RS4 alloys,Rear tints,Dipped bulbs 80W,Mainbeams & Foglights 100W,Number plate LED's,Interior LED's

  12. #8
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    Re: EGR valve removal

    Thanks Jim, i'm glad to hear that it seems to have cured the fault on your wife's car.

    Pete

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    Re: EGR valve removal

    UPDATE >>>> As stated, after several short start / stop journeys the ECU and Emmissions workshp message had stayed off and car seemed fine. The inexplicably, it came on again for a short while?
    Anyhow, today, after driving quite a few miles and again with several start / stop cycles the lights are again OFF.....Hopefully, permanently this time.

    MY2008 (58) XJ X358 2.7 Tdvi Sovereign
    LWB remapped to 245bhp, Black, Ivory leather interior with black piping, 20" Alloys
    MY2007 Audi A6 2.0 Tdi SE (BRE)
    176bhpStratos Blue.Front & Rear park assist,Comms Pack High,19" RS4 alloys,Rear tints,Dipped bulbs 80W,Mainbeams & Foglights 100W,Number plate LED's,Interior LED's

  14. #10
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    Re: EGR valve removal

    Quote Originally Posted by PeteK View Post
    I finally got around to removing the EGR valve and cleaning it today, this is the first time it has been off in 176k miles so I was expecting it to be quite gunked up. It was fairly simple to remove; With both the engine cover removed and the plastic cover on the right hand side of the engine bay I then removed the 2 vacuum pipes and removed the clip off the intercooler hose and pulled this out of the EGR valve. Next I removed the 3 Allen bolts holding the EGR valve to the inlet manifold (the bottom one looks as though it is awkward to reach but proved to be fairly straight forward using an Allen key) and then removed the 2 x 12mm bolts holding the the pipe from the bottom of the EGR valve to the exhaust pipe.
    EGR valves could just be pulled out right? I've already removed the 3 allen bolts yet the valve barely moves and it would not pull out.. I do not want to force it.. Any idea on why is this happening? How come you've pulled it out easily? How can it be removed without damaging it?
    Last edited by armandjones82; 15-05-2011 at 04:48 PM.

 

 
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