A3 Cambelt broken, doh!

[Sly]

Okay, first winge, my service schedule says 115k for cambelt replacement on 20v petrol engines and mine snapped at 114944miles. I see now that everyone on here recommend it earlier. Well so do I now!

The car is a 2001 1.8T AUM engine with auto box and LHD, not that that should make any difference.

Moving on then, when it went about 40mph, no big bang, just loss of power, pulled over straight away and only tried turning it over a few times before diagnosing cambelt not turning with engine.

I'm happy to do the work myself but wouldn't mind a few answers and advice along the way. Will the valves and head always suffer damage? Is there an easy way to check without removing the head or is it worth just trying it with a new belt first and see how it goes? Could this make things worse or if the edges of the valves are just a bit bent would it just run rough if it all?

Any ideas on cheapest place for parts would be appreciated too, Audi ******** quote £700 for the lot which includes:

• Cambelt, damper, tensioner
• Water pump
• 20x valves
• Headgasket + bolts
• rocker cover gasket
• coolant
• inlet + exhaust manifold gaskets
• turbo-exhaust gasket + 3x screws

Anything I've missed out that I may need?

Cheers in advance and looking forward to a big job but not the expense!

[Sly]

...added the poll for a laugh but it cropped the text.

Meant to say, "...so it's worth more to me than it would be to anyone else."

[zollaf]

get a head gasket set, including all the gaskets you will need and valve stem oil seals. also get the head skimmed. check the deck height of all 4 pistons as well. (piston on tdc, check height, any that are different and suspect bent con rod). you will need to grind the new valves in so a twizzle stick and paste will be needed, or get the engine shop that does the skim to cut the seats. the hydraulic tappets will have taken a hammering as well, but will probably be ok, but you might replace them to be safe. all the bits can be found at gsf etc, or try the site sponsors.

[Sly]

cheers, that doesn't make it sound any cheaper! Is it likely the head needs skimming or might I get away with it?! Is there a decent workshop manual I can follow or will Haynes do?

[zollaf]

its best to always skim a head regardless. it should cost about £30, but comes back with a nice shiny surface ready to fit. if you dont, you have to spend ages cleaning all the old bits of gasket off, and if it is slightly out (4 thou ), it will cause the new gasket to blow eventually.

[zollaf]

there you go, 100% of voters say fix it.

[Sly]

Sounds well worth it then, I'll do that. (Hate cleaning off old gasket!)

Would it be worth just trying with a new belt first or is damage inevitable on these engines? I got away with it about 10 years back with my 2l Carlton.

[kenney]

There is no harm in trying a new belt,although the chances are small that there is no valve damage.

[Sly]

There is no harm in trying a new belt,although the chances are small that there is no valve damage.

Then that's what I will do first. Optimism optimism optimism!

Will let you know how I get on...

[Sly]

So the belt is out, teeth sheared around the crank gear. The hydraulic damper is easy to push in by hand and the water pump only has half the plastic parts it originally had! Wife is picking up parts for me later.

Turning the engine by hand feels smooth with no unusual noise or resistance. Turning the cam on the other hand? Even with the plugs out is quite hard to overcome the valve springs (i imagine that's what the springiness is caused by?) Doesn't feel like there's anything grinding or otherwise though.

So if the new kit arrives early enough I'll line the cam and crank marks up and slap a new belt on. Turn it by hand a couple of times then start her up, just for a second! Who's feeling lucky?!