Remote Central Locking Addition to an 02 Polo

[Flash2]

Your welcome.

[freakyshadows]

Hi,
I want to to carry out the same work but just wondered, does this method use the switch that is already in the drivers side door and therefore not activate the blinking door LED and immobiliser or does it directly connect to the cental locking system and activate immobiliser and LED etc?

Thanks!

[vc-10]

Well, the immobiliser is a separate system (it's 'activated' every time you pull the key out of the ignition!) so that's not a problem. I'm not sure about the existing flashing LED- I think the system is spliced into the wires coming from the door lock (so basically the car thinks that you've turned the key in the door) rather than the buttons on the door.

[hedgehogville]

Hi Guys
HELP
Sorry to open this old thread wanting to install right click KE669HC remote kit
Just purchased a POLO 9n 2004 with no remote locking but central locking from each of the front doors.
I have just spent more of the afternoon trying to work out whats what with the switch in the door (three wires - brown Ground; brown/ thin green strip and grey...) one of these is +12v think its the brown / thin green
I have located the comfort control box ecu under the dash
I can access the constant +12v on the light switch.
Ground is no issue!
The indicators are typically black/ white & black/ green.
I am not sure regarding how to work out the type of the door lock.

Can anyone please give me some advice to progress this one on.
Any help would be greatly appreciated.

[Flash2]

Hi, welcome to the forum.

If you read the my posts in this thread, I've already explained pretty much all you need to know to wire up a remote locking unit.
I've never done a polo as old as yours, but I'm guessing it'll be the same as the later 9N ones I've done.

You wire your c/locking box up to output negative pulses.
The wire that controls the c/locking can be found in the loom between the driver's door and body, a blue with white tracer.
You will need a 180 Ohm resistor to make it work, available at your local Maplin store. 180 Ohm 0.6W will be fine.
You connect the locking wire of your c/locking box directly to the blue/white wire.
You connect the unlock wire to one end of the 180 resistor.
You connect the other end of the resistor to the locking wire.
See attached diagram.
There is a photo a few posts back showing where to connect the indicator wires.

Good luck.

Locking.jpg

[hedgehogville]

Hi Flash2

Thanks for getting back to me so quickly I really appreciate that.
Yes I had seen you posts detailing the config to piggy backing the remote unit in.
But...there is always a but
When I tried to understand the problem myself I came up with the door lock/ unlock switch has three wires going to it!
None of which are blue with white tracer
What I found was brown with thin green tracer (constant +12v) , grey and solid brown (earth) - which left me confused as your per your previous posts
From the Haynes that I have the brown / thing green tracer goes to the convenience
control pins 23/16 & the gray goes to the on-board supply control unit pin 6c/2

Hence my confusion
Am I missing something obvious? what does the blue with white tracer wire supply?
Thanks in anticipation we can get this on cracked.
Kindest Regards

[Flash2]

I've never checked the wiring at the lock/unlock switch, so can't help much.
My guess would be that the wires are 1. Earth (Brown), 2. Locking control wire (Brwn/Grn), 3. Side light supply (Grey).

The blue/white wire I was talking about goes to the c/locking actuator in the door lock, not the c/locking button.
Both wires probably perform the same function but the value of the resistor needed to unlock the doors may be different,
so I'd advise using the blue/white because I know it works with the 180 Ohm resistor.
In either caes, you shouldn't even need to remove the door trim because both wires will route via the "A" post connector.

Jim.

[hedgehogville]

Hi Jim,

Thanks for the update.

All the wiring done and checked.

Black, yellow & yellow/black all connected to Grd - checked that all these are definitely connected.
Constant Red found on the back of the light switch - definitely constant +12v
Blue/ white found in loom after they come through the A frame pillar connector (not sure if I can test this)

Powering up the unit and using the remote to lock gives five clear clicks from the relay.....whereas unlock gives 3 clear clicks!

But that's it - No activation of the central locking!

Do you have any further pointers.

Thanks again

[hedgehogville]

Hi Jim

Okay final revision for tonight - just changed the top jumper to short pins 1&2 - and success - it locks

Its late cold and now not getting any further....

So now just to work out why its failing to unlock...

Regards

[Flash2]

Hi Hedgehogville (strange name?)

First thing to confirm is that you are getting a negative pulse out of the box on the unlock wire.
Check it with a test light (or a voltmeter) between the positive supply wire and the unlock wire (on the box side of the resistor).
Press the remote to unlock and make sure you get a good light (or voltage. The volage may not go to 12V because the puse is short).
If that is OK, then confirm you have the correct value of resistor. Either measure it with a multimeter or google resistor colour codes.
If that's OK then check you have the resistor connected correctly. One end should connect to the unlock wire, the other end should
be spliced into the lock wire. If all that checks out, I think you'll need to get an auto electrician to take a look at it.
It'll be difficult to diagnose further without having the thing in front of me.

Good Luck!

Jim.