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  1. Buying Oil, Some Basic Advice From Opie Oils 
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    This post may seem like going back to basics but we are constantly surprised by the amount of people who do not know or understand what is written on a bottle of oil and therefore have no idea of what they are looking for, buying or using.


    This post should help as a basic guide, for more detailed information contact us and we will be happy to help.

    So, to be blunt about the subject, if a bottle of oil does not contain the following basic information then DO NOT buy it look for something that does!

    1) The purpose for which it is intended (i.e. Motor oil, Gear oil etc)

    2) The viscosity (i.e. 10w-40, 5w-30 etc for Motor oils and 80w-90, 75w-90 etc for Gear oils)

    3) The specifications that it meets (should contain both API and ACEA ratings)

    4) The OEM Approvals that it carries and the codes (i.e. MB229.3, VW504.00, FORD 913a/b, BMW LL04 etc)

    Ignore the marketing blurb on the label it is in many cases meaningless and we will explain later what statements you should treat with skepticism.

    So, what does the above information mean and why is it important?

    THE BASICS

    All oils are intended for an application and in general are not interchangeable. You would not for example put an Automatic Transmission Oil or a Gear Oil in your engine! It is important to know what the oils intended purpose is.

    VISCOSITY

    Most oils on the shelves today are “Multigrades”, which simply means that the oil falls into 2 viscosity grades (i.e. 10w-40 etc)

    Multigrades were first developed some 50 years ago to avoid the old routine of using a thin oil in winter and a thicker oil in the summer.

    In a 10w-40 for example the 10w bit (W = winter, not weight or watt or anything else for that matter) simply means that the oil must have a certain maximum viscosity/flow at low temperature.


    The lower the “W” number the better the oils cold temperature/cold start performance. I.E. 5w is better than 10w etc

    The 40 in a 10w-40 simply means that the oil must fall within certain viscosity limits at 100 degC. This is a fixed limit and all oils that end in 40 must achieve these limits.


    Once again the lower the number the thinner the oil, a 30 oil is thinner than a 40 oil at 100 degC etc. Your handbook will specify whether a 30, 40 or 50 etc is required.



    SPECIFICATIONS

    Specifications are important as these indicate the performance of an oil and whether it has met or passed the latest tests or whether the formulation is effectively obsolete or out of date.


    There are two specifications that you should look for on any oil bottle and these are API (American Petroleum Institute) and ACEA (Association des Constructeurs Europeens d’Automobiles) all good oils should contain both of these and an understanding of what they mean is important.

    API

    This is the more basic of the two specs as it is split (for passenger cars) into two catagories.


    S = Petrol and C = Diesel, most oils carry both petrol (S) and diesel (C) specifications.

    The following table shows how up to date the specifications the oil are:

    PETROL

    SG - Introduced 1989 has much more active dispersant to combat black sludge.

    SH - Introduced 1993 has same engine tests as SG, but includes phosphorus limit 0.12%, together with control of foam, volatility and shear stability.

    SJ - Introduced 1996 has the same engine tests as SG/SH, but phosphorus limit 0.10% together with variation on volatility limits

    SL - Introduced 2001, all new engine tests reflective of modern engine designs meeting current emissions standards

    SM - Introduced November 2004, improved oxidation resistance, deposit protection and wear protection, also better low temperature performance over the life of the oil compared to previous categories.

    Note:

    All specifications prior to SL are now obsolete and although suitable for some older vehicles are more than 10 years old and do not provide the same level of performance or protection as the more up to date SL and SM specifications.

    DIESEL

    CD - Introduced 1955, international standard for turbo diesel engine oils for many years, uses single cylinder test engine only

    CE - Introduced 1984, improved control of oil consumption, oil thickening, piston deposits and wear, uses additional multi cylinder test engines

    CF4 - Introduced 1990, further improvements in control of oil consumption and piston deposits, uses low emission test engine

    CF - Introduced 1994, modernised version of CD, reverts to single cylinder low emission test engine. Intended for certain indirect injection engines

    CF2 - Introduced 1994, defines effective control of cylinder deposits and ring face scuffing, intended for 2 stroke diesel engines

    CG4 - Introduced 1994, development of CF4 giving improved control of piston deposits, wear, oxidation stability and soot entrainment. Uses low sulphur diesel fuel in engine tests

    CH4 - Introduced 1998, development of CG4, giving further improvements in control of soot related wear and piston deposits, uses more comprehensive engine test program to include low and high sulphur fuels

    CI4 Introduced 2002, developed to meet 2004 emission standards, may be used where EGR ( exhaust gas recirculation ) systems are fitted and with fuel containing up to 0.5 % sulphur. May be used where API CD, CE, CF4, CG4 and CH4 oils are specified.

    Note:
    All specifications prior to CH4 are now obsolete and although suitable for some older vehicles are more than 10 years old and do not provide the same level of performance or protection as the more up to date CH4 & CI4 specifications.

    If you want a better more up to date oil specification then look for SL, SM, CH4, CI4

    ACEA

    This is the European equivalent of API (US) and is more specific in what the performance of the oil actually is. A = Petrol, B = Diesel and C = Catalyst compatible or low SAPS (Sulphated Ash, Phosphorus and Sulphur).

    Unlike API the ACEA specs are split into performance/application catagories as follows:

    A1 Fuel economy petrol
    A2 Standard performance level (now obsolete)
    A3 High performance and/or extended drain
    A4 Reserved for future use in certain direct injection engines
    A5 Combines A1 fuel economy with A3 performance

    B1 Fuel economy diesel
    B2 Standard performance level (now obsolete)
    B3 High performance and/or extended drain
    B4 For direct injection car diesel engines
    B5 Combines B1 fuel economy with B3/B4 performance

    C1-04 Petrol and Light duty Diesel engines, based on A5/B5-04 low SAPS, two way catalyst compatible.
    C2-04 Petrol and light duty Diesel engines, based on A5/B5-04 mid SAPS, two way catalyst compatible.
    C3-04 Petrol and light duty Diesel engines, based on A5/B5-04 mid SAPS, two way catalyst compatible, Higher performance levels due to higher HTHS.

    Note: SAPS = Sulphated Ash, Phosphorous and Sulphur.

    Put simply, A3/B3, A5/B5 and C3 oils are the better quality, stay in grade performance oils.

    APPROVALS

    Many oils mention various Car Manufacturers on the bottle, the most common in the UK being VW, MB, BMW, Ford or Vauxhall but do not be misled into thinking that you are buying top quality oil because of this.

    Oil Companies send their oils to OEM’s for approval however some older specs are easily achieved and can be done so with the cheapest of mineral oils. Newer specifications are always more up to date and better quality/performance than the older ones.

    Some of the older OEM specifications are listed here and depending on the performance level of your car are best ignored if you are looking for a quality high performance oil:

    VW – 500.00, 501.00 and 505.00

    Later specs like 503, 504, 506 and 507 are better performing more up to date oils

    MB – 229.1

    Later specs like 229.3 and 229.5 are better performing more up to date oils.

    BMW – LL98

    Later specs like LL01 and LL04 are better performing more up to date oils.


    FINALLY

    Above is the most accurate guidance we can give without going into too much depth however there is one final piece of advice regarding labelling.

    Certain statements are made on labels that are meaningless and just marketing hype, here are a few to avoid!

    Recommended for use where……………


    May be used where the following specifications apply……………


    Approved by………………………..(but with no qualification or specification)


    Recommended/Approved by (some famous person, these endorsements are paid for)

    Racing/Track formula (but with no supporting evidence)

    Also be wary of statements like “synthetic blend” if you are looking for a fully synthetic oil as this will merely be a semi-synthetic.

    Like everything in life, you get what you pay for. The cheaper the oil the cheaper the

    ingredients, lower the performance levels and older the specs it meets so beware!

    If you would like further advice then please feel free to ask here or contact us via our website or email.

    Simon & Guy

    Opie Oils
     
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  2. #2
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    Thanks again for your continued informative posts.

    Thread stuck.

    Remember Opie Oils offer a forum discount - see the thread here for more information " Sticky: www.opieoils.co.uk"


    Considering selling my VCDS KEY-USB interface. If you're interested please contact me via PM or email.
     
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  3. #3
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    Oilman(Simon and Guy) This is very good and I personally thank you for it.

    Would you allow the thread to be posted(pasted or link sent) to another motoring Forum, as I'm sure it would be of great help to a vast number of people. Including people in the Trade as well as the General Public.

    I'm a believer in you get what you pay for. A lot of people don't understand the implications of the wrong oil in their engine.

    PD Golf engine oil comes to mind. Use the wrong stuff at your peril.
     
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  4. #4
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    No problem.

    Just let me know where it is so that I can pop over and respond to any questions arising from the post.

    Cheers
    Simon
    Use the code VWAUDI and get 10% Club Discount
    oilman's website: http://www.opieoils.co.uk/ - register for news and offers
    full range of oils from many brands including Castrol
    email: sales@opieoils.co.uk
    phone: 01209 202944 Castrol

     
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  5. Re: Buying Oil, Some Basic Advice From Opie Oils 
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    Hi, I just read your article about oil selection. There's just one thing I'm not quite understanding; Why is the winter number lower than the number for elevated temp? As you say the lower the number the thinner the oil - surley the oil would be thicker in winter and therefore be a higher number? I'm not questioning your knowledge of lubricants, it's just the penny hasn't quite dropped! Should they be thought of as two entirely separate scales?
     
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  6. Re: Buying Oil, Some Basic Advice From Opie Oils 
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    If you see an expression such as 10W-40, the oil is a multigrade.

    This simply means that the oil falls into 2 viscosity grades, in this case 10W & 40.

    This is made possible by the inclusion of a polymer, a component which slows down the rate of thinning as the oil warms up and slows down the rate of thickening as the oil cools down.

    It was first developed some 50 years ago to avoid the routine of using a thinner oil in winter and a thicker oil in summer.

    For a 10w-40 to attain the specification target a 10W ( W = winter) the oil must have a certain maximum viscosity at low temperature. The actual viscosity and the temperature vary with the viscosity grade but in all cases the lower the number, the thinner the oil, e.g. a 5W oil is thinner than a 10W oil at temperatures encountered in UK winter conditions.

    This is important because a thinner oil will circulate faster on cold start, affording better engine protection.

    For a 10w-40 to attain the other specification target a 40 oil must fall within certain limits at 100 degC. In this case the temperature target does not vary with the viscosity grade, if there is no "W", the measuring temperature is always 100degC. Again the lower the number the thinner the oil, a 30 oil is thinner than a 40 oil at 100 degC., which is typical of maximum bulk oil temperatures in an operating engine.

    The engine makers are, of course, very well aware of this and specify oils according to engine design features, oil pump capacities, manufacturing tolerances, ambient temperature conditions etc. It is important to follow these guidelines, they are important and are an are stipulated for good reasons.

    If the engine has been modified, the operating conditions may well be outside the original design envelope. The stress on the oil caused by increased maximum revs, power output and temperature may indicate that oil of a different type and viscosity grade would be beneficial.

    Cheers
    Guy
    Use the code VWAUDI and get 10% Club Discount
    oilman's website: http://www.opieoils.co.uk/ - register for news and offers
    full range of oils from many brands including Castrol
    email: sales@opieoils.co.uk
    phone: 01209 202944 Castrol

     
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  7. Re: Buying Oil, Some Basic Advice From Opie Oils 
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    HI,

    I have a 56 plate 2.0 SE TDI 170 Audi A4 which has the oil light comming on again. I have used the small supply of oil that came with the car and some other oil i subsequently purchased. On looking in the manual i see they suggest i must use VW507 00 rather than anything else because this vehicle has a diesel particulate filter . Can you tell me is this really a must or can i put any high quality oil in!!

    Cheers

    Mark
     
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  8. Re: Buying Oil, Some Basic Advice From Opie Oils 
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    Tis a must I am afraid.

    These 507.00 spec oils are low ash and sulpher, to go with the particulate filter. If you dont use one you risk damge to the filter.

    Cheers

    Guy.
    Use the code VWAUDI and get 10% Club Discount
    oilman's website: http://www.opieoils.co.uk/ - register for news and offers
    full range of oils from many brands including Castrol
    email: sales@opieoils.co.uk
    phone: 01209 202944 Castrol

     
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  9. Re: Buying Oil, Some Basic Advice From Opie Oils 
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    I too have a 170 2.0 Tdi.

    It states in my manual that it has to be 507 and "only in exceptional circumstances can it be 505, and only then 0.5 litres" with the view to getting some 507 in there asap
    Current Car: Skoda Octavia vRS Hatch 2.0TDi 170 CR in Candy White
    Outgoing Car: 2007 56 Plate Audi A3 Sport Sportback 2.0TDi 170 PD in Black
     
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  10. Re: Buying Oil, Some Basic Advice From Opie Oils 
    #10
    Big G Guest
    Quote Originally Posted by oilman View Post
    Tis a must I am afraid.

    These 507.00 spec oils are low ash and sulpher, to go with the particulate filter. If you dont use one you risk damge to the filter.

    Cheers

    Guy.

    Hi will 507.000 (from car lube, 5/30 fully synthetic) damage my passat 1.9tdi 04 as its not mentioned in the hand book just 505 and 506. I suppose this 507 grade was not around when they made the car.
     
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