ECU Remapping (1.9TDI)

[Egg Roll]

Hey, (Car = Audi A4 1998 1.9 TDi 110 FWD)

I'm just wondering if anyone here has any experience with remapping their own A4 1.9TDI? - I was thinking of buying the VAG COM cable and play around with a few parameters with the VAG COM software. Is it really this easy, though?

I was hoping to get that extra power without having to fork out the hundreds that ECU-ReMappers charge. Perhaps, make some money of my own by giving my friend's the map that I make (If it's successful).

Could anyone share some vital information on this please? Thanks.

Also, the engine shakes like crazy when I accelerate somewhat hard in 1st, 2nd and a little bit of 3rd. So I'm assuming that one or some of the mounts on the gearbox/engine are wearing. Is this common with the B5 A4's? I've only owned my a few weeks or so, I have limited experience on these cars.

Thanks.

[sr-performance]

Hi mate,
people pay lots of money for the obvious reason.. Yes you could prob get a cheap map from somewhere but how good will it be...basically it wont be, we remap quite a few cars that have been remapped "cheaply" it really isn't as easy as you think.

[shark_90]

Welcome to VWAF.

First things first:

You cannot remap a 1998 1.9TDi 110.

You cannot make any changes to any ECU map with VAG-COM (now known as VCDS).

I'd wager that as you didn't know those two fundamental pieces of information you are on the road to failure.

May I also suggest that you fix whatever mechanical issues you have with your car before you dream of making any modifications, particularly any that might increase the power.

[ini]

Once your car is healthy you will be able to 're-chip' it.

Your ECU does not have reprogrammable eeprom's, and can not be remapped over the OBD port like many slightly later ECU's.

You probably have 2x PLCC32 chips soldered to your board, so you will need someone with hotair/laser soldering tools or similar to remove the chips, and solder in some socketts for you. This is way beyond hobby soldering, and is very fine work. It is easy to pull a trace, or have a dry joint/bad contact if attempted yourself.

Once your ECU is socketted, you can purchase a pair of chips that have already been 'remapped' relatively inexpensively, without pulling trade from most remappers (most dont do wetwork for older cars anymore).

Altering various software maps/spec/parameters directly can be done for your car with a few bits of software and hardware, but it is an incredibly bad idea, and anything but simple, and takes many years of highly skilled training and expertise to understand the relationship between the various maps and parameters. The number of people who actually create new maps or alter existing maps for cars is surprisingly small.

As a hobby it is an interesting but potentialy expensive thing to do, i would take seriously sr-performance and shark_90's advice.

If you just want more power, i would go with the conventional hardware and/or software route.

You can do a few things with vagcom to potentially increase power, but they are probably not adviseable (advance dynamic timing etc).

[Egg Roll]

Welcome to VWAF.

First things first:

You cannot remap a 1998 1.9TDi 110.

You cannot make any changes to any ECU map with VAG-COM (now known as VCDS).

I'd wager that as you didn't know those two fundamental pieces of information you are on the road to failure.

May I also suggest that you fix whatever mechanical issues you have with your car before you dream of making any modifications, particularly any that might increase the power.

You lose; I had a hunch that it was not reprogrammable. I felt inclined to ask just in case.

Thanks for your reply.

[Egg Roll]

Once your car is healthy you will be able to 're-chip' it.

Your ECU does not have reprogrammable eeprom's, and can not be remapped over the OBD port like many slightly later ECU's.

You probably have 2x PLCC32 chips soldered to your board, so you will need someone with hotair/laser soldering tools or similar to remove the chips, and solder in some socketts for you. This is way beyond hobby soldering, and is very fine work. It is easy to pull a trace, or have a dry joint/bad contact if attempted yourself.

Once your ECU is socketted, you can purchase a pair of chips that have already been 'remapped' relatively inexpensively, without pulling trade from most remappers (most dont do wetwork for older cars anymore).

Altering various software maps/spec/parameters directly can be done for your car with a few bits of software and hardware, but it is an incredibly bad idea, and anything but simple, and takes many years of highly skilled training and expertise to understand the relationship between the various maps and parameters. The number of people who actually create new maps or alter existing maps for cars is surprisingly small.

As a hobby it is an interesting but potentialy expensive thing to do, i would take seriously sr-performance and shark_90's advice.

If you just want more power, i would go with the conventional hardware and/or software route.

You can do a few things with vagcom to potentially increase power, but they are probably not adviseable (advance dynamic timing etc).

Thanks for the info', I guess I'll pause the en-devour.

[pryrates]

Hey, (Car = Audi A4 1998 1.9 TDi 110 FWD)

I'm just wondering if anyone here has any experience with remapping their own A4 1.9TDI? - I was thinking of buying the VAG COM cable and play around with a few parameters with the VAG COM software. Is it really this easy, though?

I was hoping to get that extra power without having to fork out the hundreds that ECU-ReMappers charge. Perhaps, make some money of my own by giving my friend's the map that I make (If it's successful).

Could anyone share some vital information on this please? Thanks.

Also, the engine shakes like crazy when I accelerate somewhat hard in 1st, 2nd and a little bit of 3rd. So I'm assuming that one or some of the mounts on the gearbox/engine are wearing. Is this common with the B5 A4's? I've only owned my a few weeks or so, I have limited experience on these cars.

Thanks.

Iv replaced an engine mount and gear box. If its a gear box the the 'stick' will twist in your hand when your using alot of torque, e.g. heavy acceleration.

If its an engine mount then if you free rev the engine it shoule twist the car slightly causing body roll. |Kinda like those crocks of **** american mussle cars at a drag race.

[cusford]

Iv replaced an engine mount and gear box. If its a gear box the the 'stick' will twist in your hand when your using alot of torque, e.g. heavy acceleration.

If its an engine mount then if you free rev the engine it shoule twist the car slightly causing body roll. |Kinda like those crocks of **** american mussle cars at a drag race.

bit of thread hijacking.. but what if the gearstick has a lot of movement in it when accelerating? that gearbox mount as well i take it?

[pryrates]

bit of thread hijacking.. but what if the gearstick has a lot of movement in it when accelerating? that gearbox mount as well i take it?

Ya dats wat was happenin wit mine. Its the only cause for the gear stick to have that much movement.

[vard]

here this mite help its a pretty good chipping company that looks pretty good it mite be better for you thn a re-map they seem pretty resonable with there prices to http://www.chipexpress.com/diesel-tu...x-audi-a4.html