Wishbone Front / Rear Axle Bush which brand

[MathewRB]

Hi All,
I need to replace both front wishbones and all ball joints and have had the following pricing. But which one do you think is best?
All pricing includes VAT and all wishbones/Ball Joint/Bush’s
OEM (unbranded)
£75
Lemforder
£125 (but I think I can get them for £100)
VW
£185
I need rear Axle Bush’s
Lemforder
£14 EACH
VW
£28 EACH
Regards
Mathew

[tornadored7]

Mathew,

Personally I'd opt for the Lemforder wishbones, but suspect that you'd also have to buy the ball joints seperately. AFAIK, Lemforder is Original VW/OEM quality.
Alternatively if your wishbone was not damaged in any way, you could always press in new wishbone bushes, and replace the balljoints. The advantage being that you would still retain the OEM quality wishbones, with an option of fitting either a standard rear wishbone bush (comfortable ride), or an Audi TT/R32 rear wishbone bush (firmer/sportier steering response).

Again for the rear axle bushes (RAB), I would normally opt for the Lemforder ones (OEM quality) (1J0.501.541.C), but after recently having replaced my rear axle bushes, would be more inclined towards the stiffer Skoda Fabia VRs (6Q0.501.541.E) or the Leon Cupra R (1ML.501.541) rear axle bushes.

The factory fitted Golf RABs (1J0.501.541.C) have large voids present, which make for a more comfortable and quiet ride, but slightly looser handling, whearas the VRs and LCR RABs are firmer/sportier bushes. Potentially, these may also be more robust, hence last longer.

So depending upon your preference for a comfortable ride or a sportier ride, this could be an ideal time to upgrade.

Regards,
TR7

[MathewRB]

It had been mentioned to me about swaping the bush's for a sporty version but I am looking for comfort.

Any tips for replacing the rear axle bush's as I know this can be a bit of a B*tch of a job to do.

[tornadored7]

Mathew,

The procedure outlined below is influenced by the lack of access to a car lift/ramp, as are the tools used, so should be viable for a competent DIY/home mechanic.

1) Outline


1.1) Strategy

Essentially the strategy is to remove the rear axle beam from the car, and replace the RABs with the beam removed, since this is easier than performing in situ when car lift access is unavailable.
Although it is possible to replace the RABs with the rear axle beam partially mounted on the car, the confined space makes this awkward, uncomfortable and mistakes more likely.

The disadvantage of this method is that the rear brake flexi-hose needs to be disconnected from the rear beam (hence the hose clamps), consequently the rear brakes will require bleeding afterwards (thus the brake bleeder).

1.2) Scope of Work

Although this post outlines the replacement of the Rear Axle [Beam] Bushes (RABs), with the rear of the car raised I also took this opportunity to;

* replace rear springs
* replace rear shocks
* replace a rear wheel bearing
* clean the brake pads/guide pins
* perform a brake fluid change (brake fluid should be replaced every 2 years)


However, the above are outside the scope of this post.

Considering the extra work on the rear of the car, I decided to remove the rear brake pads and discs.

Since the axle will be removed from the car, and manoeuvred to make it easier to work on, this may be a safer option to prevent damage to the brake discs.

If the disks and pads are removed, ensure that you clearly label each disk (i.e. driver's side), and brake pad (i.e. driver's side inner) so that the brake components are replaced correctly into their original positions.


1.3) Assistance

Due to the weight and awkward shape of the rear axle beam it is recommended that an assistant helps withdraw and manoeuvre the rear axle beam out from underneath the car, once it has been removed.
The remaining tasks can be performed without assistance.


2) Tools and Parts

2.1) Tools

• 4 x 7 inch lengths of (4 inch x 2 inch) timber blocks
• 2 x 2 Tonne Trolley Jacks
• 2 x 2 Tonne Axle stands
• Wheel Chocks
• 2 x Hose Clamps (e.g. Laser 1491 available from Halfords)
• Brake (Pressure) Bleeding Kit (e.g. Gunson Eezibleed available from Halfords)
• Golf MK4/Audi A3 rear axle bush tool (e.g. Sealey VS722, Laser 4188), rumor has it that it is also possible to press in the RABs using G-Clamps ?
• 13mm spanner (brake flexi-hoses)
• 16mm socket (rear shock to rear axle beam bolts)
• 16mm spanner (rear shock to rear axle beam nuts)
• 18mm socket (mounting bracket to rear axle beam bolts)
• 18mm spanner (mounting bracket to rear axle beam nuts)
• Ratchet
• Torque Wrench (upto 80 Nm)
• 12" Hacksaw and a few spare blades (18 teeth blades worked well)
• Electric drill, with (8,9 or 10) mm bits
• Cold chisel
• Hammer
• Wide tipped screwdriver
• Penetrating fluid
• Safety goggles
• Clean box/carton for storing parts removed

• Car specific wheel locking nut (where fitted)
• 17mm 1/2 inch drive deep (impact) socket (e.g. Laser 3701 available from Halfords)
• 1/2 inch drive breaker bar
• 1/2 inch drive 110Nm torque wrench

Possibly required

• 2 x15mm spanners (if the rear brake calliper requires removal)
• Brake calliper piston rewind tool (e.g. Laser 1314)

2.2) Parts

• 2 x 1J0.501.541.C: Rear axle beam bushes (Bonded Rubber)
• 2 x N.104.099.03: M12 x 1.5 x125mm 10.9 grade Hex bolts (Mounting bracket to rear axle beam)
• 2 x N.101.064.02: M12 x 1.5 self locking Hex nuts (paired with the above)
• 2 x N.905.173.02: M10 x 75 x 45 10.9 grade Hex bolts (rear shock to rear axle beam)
• 2 x N.102.861.02: M10 self locking Hex nuts (paired with the above)
• 2 x 1H0.609.734.F: rear hand brake cable retaining clips

2.3) Tightening Torques

• Mounting bracket to rear axle beam: 80 Nm
• Rear shock to rear axle beam: 40 Nm + 90 degrees
• Wheel bolts: 110 Nm

Recommendations

Since these nuts are self locking, they must be replaced. However, VW also recommend replacing the bolts and also that when tightening the rear shock bolts that the rear of the car is loaded with the weight of one person.




3) Preparation

3.1) Raising the rear of the car

3.1.1) Park the car on hard (i.e. concrete, NOT earth/mud), level ground, where it doesn’t cause an obstruction. RAB replacement will take the best part of a day, perhaps longer ...

3.1.2) Chock the front wheels

3.1.3) Remove the wheel bolt covers and store in the parts box. Slightly loosen the rear wheel bolts, so that they may be removed more easily later on. You should need a 17mm deep (impact) socket, and probably a long ½” drive breaker bar.

3.1.4) Determine the correct jacking point for the rear of the car. Examine the sill, towards the rear of the car there are 3 notches or indentations. The middle notch i.e. the wider of the 3 is the rear jacking point that I used.

3.1.5) Actually the sill is not an ideal jacking point, since it is prone to crumpling/damage due to the narrow saddle of a trolley jack exerting a large load pressure. To reduce the load pressure, place a 7" length of 4" x 2" wood between the trolley jack and the green length of the sill (see Fig.1) to spread the load across the sill, and prevent sill damage.



Fig. 1 (Below): Rear Sill Jacking location in Green (use a thick piece of wood to spread the load across the Green area, avoiding the red area).



3.1.6) With the trolley jack and wood correctly located slowly jack up the rear of the car.

3.1.7) Raise the car sufficiently to place an axle stand on the rear of the car. Again I used a 7" piece of 4" x 2" piece of wood on top of the axle stand, to spread the weight of the car.

It is important the axle stand/wood are positioned on a load bearing part of the car.
Referring to (Fig. 1) I positioned this roughly underneath the hole beneath the car by the rear brake cable (i.e. the rear lifting pad).

Depending upon the arrangement of your trolley jack/axle stands you may find that the trolley jack obstructs the axle stand legs, preventing correct axle stand positioning. If this is the case, remove the axle stand(s), slowly lower the trolley jack, reposition the jack and resume from (3.1.6).

3.1.8) Ensure that both rear axle stands are safely supporting the rear weight of the car, and test by slowly lowering the trolley jack onto the axle stands, until the axle stands alone bear the rear weight of the car.

3.1.9) At this point, both rear sides of the car should be supported only by the axle stands.

3.1.10) The trolley jacks will be re used to remove the rear springs, and also to support the rear axle beam after it has been unbolted from the car.

If you are fortunate enough to borrow/have access to four trolley jacks, I would suggest keeping these two jacks to provide further support, alongside the axle stands.


3.2) Removing parts

3.2.1) Remove all 5 rear wheel bolts, remember the car is supported by axle stands so avoid toppling the car by using excessive force.
Store all wheel bolts in the parts box.

If you skipped step (3.1.3) and didn’t pre loosen the wheel bolts when the car was on the ground, don’t even think about proceeding to remove the wheel bolts (unless you have an airgun). Carefully lower the car back onto the ground and resume from step (3.1.3)

3.2.2) Repeat with the opposite rear wheel

3.2.3) Disconnect the ABS wiring connectors.

• Start with the rear passenger’s ABS sensor. Push down on the plastic lever mounted on the plug, and carefully pull out the plug.
• More care is required for the rear driver’s side ABS sensor plug, since unlike the passenger's side, the plastic lever is more faces away from you.

Tuck or tape the ABS cabling away, so that it remains secure and out of the way.


3.2.4) Disconnecting rear brake flexi-hoses;

Fig2: Rear brake flexi-hose and brake pipe (top-middle), hand brake cable (trailing at the bottom of picture).

Click here for Fig.2

• Clamp the rear flexi-hose tightly using the hose clamp
• Using a 13mm spanner (?) undo the flexi-hose / brake pipe coupling nut (mounted towards the bottom of the brake pipe).
• Using a narrow tipped screwdriver, carefully prise out and extract the brake pipe clip.
• Store the brake pipe/flexi-hose clip in the parts box.
• Separate the flexi-hose and brake pipe.
• Using a clean cloth wipe away any excess brake fluid on the flexi-hose and brake pipe ends, and cover these up with duck tape to avoid any possible dirt ingress and contamination to the brake lines.

Repeat on opposite side

Hopefully, only a small amount of brake fluid will have leaked out. However, this still necessitates brake fluid bleeding.


3.2.5) Disconnect the hand brake cable from the 3 hand brake cable retaining clips

Pull the brake cable out from the front hand brake cable clip (see Fig 3.: red arrow).

Fig.3 (Below): Front hand brake retaining clip





Again pull/twist the brake cable out from the middle hand brake cable clip (Fig. 4: red arrow)

The rear most hand brake cable clip (Fig. 4: yellow arrow) is fastened onto two threaded studs protruding from the axle beam, and requires more effort.
Using a screw driver, prise open the cable clip. If you are patient enough you should be able to bend the smaller tabs out, and carefully remove the clip thus releasing the cable. I was slightly more brutal and destroyed the two brake clips (1H0.609.734.F) !

Repeat for the other side.




Fig.4 (Below): Middle(red arrow) and Rear(yellow arrow) hand brake retaining clips




3.2.6) Disconnect the hand brake cable from the rear brake

Referring to Fig.5 (below)

• Ensure that the hand brake is released to its lowest position
• Rotate/pull the handbrake lever (yellow arrow) towards the securing clip (red arrow)
• Pull the hand brake cable lug (blue arrow) out of the hand brake lever (yellow arrow)
• Using a screw driver, prise out the hand brake cable securing clip (red arrow)

The handbrake cable should now be free of the rear axle beam.

Repeat for the other side.

Fig.5 (Below): Handbrake lever on rear brake mechanism, and handbrake cable securing clip



3.2.7) Disconnect the (optional) vehicle level sensor

Cars with the optional vehicle level sensor, will have a rear vehicle level sensor mounted on the left trailing arm. Unbolt the link and arm.


3.2.8) Unbolt the rear axle beam to rear shock bolts

• Position two trolley jacks underneath the right and left spring cups on the rear axle beam
• Place a small length of wood on the saddle of each trolley jack
• Slowly raise both trolley jacks, until both the rear springs are slightly compressed
• If required apply penetrating fluid to the rear axle beam to rear shock bolts/nuts and allow time to work in.
• Using a 16mm spanner to counter hold the nut, undo the rear axle beam to rear shock bolts with a 16mm socket/ratchet. Gently tap the bolts out with a hammer if necessary.
• Lower the trolley jacks, until the shocks can be manoeuvred out from the rear axle beam.
• Carefully remove and store the rear springs, the upper rubber spring seat, and the lower zinc spring plate (which may actually be stuck on the axle beam cup)

3.2.9) Unbolt the Mounting bracket to rear axle beam bolts

• Place a plank of wood underneath the front length of the rear axle beam. This will protect the beam, and also serve to assist moving the beam out from underneath the car.
• If required apply penetrating fluid to the Mounting bracket to rear axle beam bolts/nuts and allow time to work in.
• Using a 18mm spanner to counter hold the nut, undo the Mounting bracket to rear axle beam bolts with a 18mm socket/ratchet. Gently tap the bolt out with a hammer if necessary.
  If the 18mm bolt cannot be properly accessed, it may be necessary to loosen the bolts on the mounting bracket. Avoid this if at all possible, since if the bracket becomes slightly dislocated an expensive 4 wheel alignment
  may be required.
  
• Repeat the above on the opposite side, being careful to support the rear axle beam with the plank upon removal of the final bolt.

Carefully withdraw the rear axle beam from underneath the car, taking care to avoid damage particularly to the fragile brake components (discs, pipes ...).
The trolley jacks may be useful to this effect.

The axle beam is awkward and heavy to manoeuvre, so an assistant is recommended.



3.3) Checking parts removed

Quite a few parts will have been removed/disturbed. The following parts shall be reused, so ensure that these are accounted for;

• 1 x locking wheel nut
• 10 x wheel bolts
• 10 x wheel bolt caps
• 2 x brake pipe/flexi-hose clips
• 2 x hand brake retaining clip (front: Fig.x )
• 2 x hand brake retaining clip (middle: Fig.x)
• 2 x rear springs
• 2 x rear spring rubber seats
• 2 x rear spring zinc plates
• verify that the flexi-hose and axle brake pipes are taped up/securely covered to prevent dirt ingress

3.4) Take a break


X) Credits

NOTE:

I performed this task alone, so unfortunately didn't have a chance to take pictures.
The excellent pictures in this post were sourced from ;

• [VW Vortex] DIY Replacing and adjusting e-brake cables
• [VW Vortex] DIY rear axle bushing replacement, MKIV

Despite appearances to the contrary, I do not get paid a commission from Halfords!

To be continued again ...

[Crasher]

Febi bushes and wishbones are very good quality, what I use in the workshops.

[MathewRB]

Thanks TR7 keep it coming!!!

[MathewRB]

Hi TR7 is there any more to this?

[tornadored7]

Hi TR7 is there any more to this?

Hi Mathew,

Yes there is more to write up, and I need to take/source more photographs. Ideally, If any forum members are thinking of replacing the rear axle bushes themselves, kindly advise, and I would appreciate if photos could be taken/arranged.

Kind Regards,
TR7

[Crasher]

Febi.