Adjusting camber and tracking on Mk3 golf

**robert1z** · 22-03-2009,01:36 PM

Hi,

I did hint at this in a previous post but think it deserves its own topic really.
After replacing many parts on the front suspension, my camber and tracking are all over the place, as pointed out by a mechanic who test drove it.
A Couple of questions I have are:

1.Can someone tell me how to adjust the camber on the front suspension?

2. Know a good DIY tracking guide i.e I remember reading about a piece of string around the car and measuring some distance. If anyone knows about this. I am aware this is a contentious issue but I would like to try and at least get it better!

Thanks in anticipation!!

**hoikey** · 22-03-2009,07:22 PM

i changed my suspension and mine went a bit dodgy too.

what i did was measured the gap from the wheel arch to the top of the tyre of wherever and then jack the car up and then jack the wishbone so that the wheel is off the floor but the suspension is the same as when its on the floor. (get what i mean??) and then take off the wheel and put a spirit level on the brake disk and then adjust to get it level, then put wheel back on and put the car back on the floor.

did mine like this and then got it checked and said it was well within the manufacturers limits.

**Crasher** · 22-03-2009,08:04 PM

The camber must be set first and give should be 30 to 40 minutes negative (top of the wheel in) depending on the car and this is only measurable using a gauge mounted to the wheel. Then you can measure the tracking which is 0 or parallel and can be measured by the string method but if you get someone to do the camber, they may as well do the tracking. The camber is set by releasing the strut to hub bolts and the slack allows the required setting to be found, the ball joint should be in the middle of the wishbone slots except in the case of needing just a little more adjustment but that is a rare occurrence. The tracking MUST only be set by adjusting the length of the right hand track rod. The length of the left hand track rod is set with the track rod removed from the car and MUST NOT be altered in any circumstances. If the company adjusting your tracking tries to touch the left track rod, small their legs. If it has already been disturbed, it will have to be removed from the car and carefully set up on the bench.

**robert1z** · 23-03-2009,09:54 AM

That is very interesting and useful information. Thank you both.
I am so pleased I have another car to use I really am learning the hard way!!!

**robert1z** · 29-03-2009,08:34 PM

Hallelujah!

The noise is gone and the car drives in a straight line, slight wobble when I take my hands off the wheel as in the steering wheel moves left right then settles down. I had an advisory for a worn steering bush so maybe that, although handles so much better.
I jacked up the wishbones while the suspension bolts were loose and used the spirit level on the brake disk and this seems to have worked. I tracked the car using two long pieces of timber attached to the brake disks and used a tape measure to adjust the sides, probably a bit rough but what a difference! -Much better. Just need to fettle the rear wheel bearings as slight noise from back but very happy as I was ready to give up if I did not sort it soon.

Thanks to all those who helped.

P.S I may need to small my own legs J

**robert1z** · 30-03-2009,08:06 PM

Disaster!
I fitted two rear wheel bearings and probably rushed the job. I packed in plenty of grease but I think I must have overtightened the rear wheel hub nut.
I took it for 1 mile test drive and just as I pulled on the drive a big puff of smoke and a bang.
The nut had seized on and when I got it off the hub thread fell to bits. Gutted.
Do you think I overtightened it? The other side seems ok.
Can't believe it

**Crasher** · 30-03-2009,08:52 PM

The saying goes RTFM! Just thank whichever God you believe in that you didn’t do what this chap did who did exactly the same thing as you have done on the same car, “there but for the grace of God go I”

http://www.dailymail.co.uk/news/arti...s-tightly.html

**robert1z** · 31-03-2009,10:17 AM

Originally Posted by Crasher

The saying goes RTFM! Just thank whichever God you believe in that you didn’t do what this chap did who did exactly the same thing as you have done on the same car, “there but for the grace of God go I”

http://www.dailymail.co.uk/news/arti...s-tightly.html

That's a very sobering and tragic read and lesson to be learned. I have replaced the brake shoes a couple years ago and obviously paid more attention to what i was doing.
I suppose it should be a warning to all DIY mechanics.

**robert1z** · 06-04-2009,07:48 PM

Quick update....

Right I have everything back together now and driving very quiet now!
It also drives in a straight line to which is nice. The only issue is that if i go over a bump the steering is very twitchy? Will this likely be the camber still or the tracking. Will adjusting the drivers side track rod that under no circumstances adjust do this? Any ideas folks?

Thanks Rob.

**Crasher** · 06-04-2009,09:57 PM

The camber should be done first, the spec is -30 minutes. The tracking is parallel and must only be altered on the right hand track rod. If the left hand track rod is touched, it has to be removed to be reset. This is the same for left or right hand drive cars.