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Thread: The Ongoing Saga Of The 2E2 Carb.

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  1. Re: The Ongoing Saga Of The 2E2 Carb. 
    #21
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    OK Kenney,
    Thanks for your help. By the way, my car is manual gear box. What's happening at the moment is this:
    When I start the engine up, it runs at about 1600rpm (As I said, it doesnt go to 2000rpm and then drop to 1600rpm any more, as it should). Then the engine speed gradually comes down to 800rpm, so the waxstat is OK.
    When I am driving along and the engine temperature is hot (normal), its OK for a while then you can feel the accelerator pedal push back up, which is the '3/4 vacuum box' going into the decleration position (push rod totally withdrawn). I can see whats happening now, this is allowing the throttle to go back too far and stall the engine. I have tried your recommendation of adjusting the nut (13mm) on the back of the 3/4 unit and have tried several turns in both directions and it makes no difference to the idle speed at all. I can just about get the engine ticking over at 850rpm before the throttle closes completely, to see that the push rod is nowhere near the throttle lever.
    Can you help me any further please?
     
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  2. Re: The Ongoing Saga Of The 2E2 Carb. 
    #22
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    Hi If the rod is nowhere near the throttle lever,when on idle,as you say adjusting the screw will make no difference.I feel you have got the vacuum hoses in the wrong place,or there is a fault with the regulating valve,(the small black box).Have a look at all the hoses and make sure they are in the proper place.There is a way around this problem,which i have done a few times,but involves disconnecting the 3-4point vacuum box.which is only a load of rubbish anyway.
     
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  3. Re: The Ongoing Saga Of The 2E2 Carb. 
    #23
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    It is a while since i worked on these carbs,i used to know them like the back of my hand.Anyway,one thing comes to mind,which caused various problems.The wires which run to the regulating valve and the thermo switch valve, tend to be very brittle with age,(a bit like myself)and break.Pull the rubber protectors back and check the wiring,iam almost sure the wire is broken.If not, then you will need to check what kind of signal is coming to the valve.
     
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  4. Re: The Ongoing Saga Of The 2E2 Carb. 
    #24
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    We have success!

    This afternoon I got the Pierburg connection schedule plan and armed with my spare 2e2 (complete with all the vacuum pipes), compared the pipe routes with the one on the car.
    It's really quite tight around the back of that carb and if I hadn't got the spare carb to compare connections, I would have probably got the carb off altogether to do the job.
    You are absolutely spot on with your remedy, it WAS the vacuum pipes that were the wrong way round. In my rush to fit on the new rubber carb flange last week (fighting against the light), I must have put them back on the wrong way.
    It was the two pipes at the back of the carb. One goes to the 3/4 point unit and the other goes to the temperature regulator on the air-box.

    Regarding the wiring to the thermo time valve and switch etc, I have repaired them twice before but suspect that there may still be a break lower down in the loom, because what’s happening is when I start the engine from cold the revs are 2000. Sometimes the TTV works and takes the revs down to 1600 after about 10 seconds but other times it keeps running at 2000rpm until I touch the wiring or something near to it. (quite difficult to tell whether it goes back to normal by coincidence or by me touching the wiring)
    We’ll see what happens tomorrow morning anyway.

    I'm so pleased to have fixed it. Engine stalling has got to be one of the worst faults to have to endure.
    When I test drove it a little earlier, (dare I say it), there was no sign of the 'flat spot' either but too early to cross that one off yet.

    Thanks very much for your help.
     
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  5. Re: The Ongoing Saga Of The 2E2 Carb. 
    #25
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    Hi Kenney,
    I have this intermittent problem now with the solenoid change over valve (I think).
    Can you recommend the best way to test the switches because although I'm getting 12 volts at the plugs, I'm not sure that there is enough current there to make the solenoid work. i.e. suspect wiring.
    When I started up from cold this morning, it started at 2000rpm but instead of dropping down to about 1600 after 10 secs. or so, it continued increasing revs up to 3000 which is a bit cruel on an old engine.
    I touched a few cables and the solenoid clicked and engine speed dropped back down to 1400rpm.
    Any thoughts?
     
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  6. Re: The Ongoing Saga Of The 2E2 Carb. 
    #26
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    Check the earth wire on top of the carb,it runs to the rocker cover Need some info. (1) .Look at position 22 on the fuse carrier and see if there is a relay. (2) What colour are the wires running to the thermo switch?.(3) What colour are the wires running to the solinoid?
     
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  7. Re: The Ongoing Saga Of The 2E2 Carb. 
    #27
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    Earth wire seems OK although will crimp it tighter.
    I have no relay in position 22.
    The only relays I have in are positions:- 2/8/10/11/12/15/ and 16.
    The wire colours are:-

    solenoid/switch over valve(square one) =black/white and brown/black.

    thermo time switch( round one)=black/yellow/ and brown.
    I had to solder in some new wire here. Does it matter about polarity?
    Hope info is of some help.
    Thanks for your help.
     
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  8. Re: The Ongoing Saga Of The 2E2 Carb. 
    #28
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    On the solenoid the polartity matters,if you look on the sides they are marked + and- ,the thermo switch does not matter.The black/brown is the positive wire.
     
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  9. Re: The Ongoing Saga Of The 2E2 Carb. 
    #29
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    That's OK then, I've only rewired the thermo time switch so far.
    Perhaps the solenoid / switch over valve needs rewiring too.
    Did my info about the relay etc offer you any more clues?

    This problem of starting up at 2000+rpm and not dropping to 1600 etc. is worse in the very cold weather.
    It happens less in warmer weather.
    Last edited by AndySil; 29-01-2009 at 12:01 AM. Reason: Additional info.
     
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  10. Re: The Ongoing Saga Of The 2E2 Carb. 
    #30
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    It would seen you have a wiring problem since when you touch the wire the fault is rectified,As i said the wires are very brittle and break.One thing you can check is the function of the thermo switch,remove both hoses and attach a hose to the switch,which you can suck through. When cold the switch is open,then apply 12v and after 10 secs the switch should be closed i.e you can't suck through it.
     
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