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Thread: The Ongoing Saga Of The 2E2 Carb.

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  1. Re: The Ongoing Saga Of The 2E2 Carb. 
    #11
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    Hi There is a rubber ring between the intake manifold and the head.Through time this ring swells up and stops the coolant circulation,which then makes the waxstat inoperable and this causes quite a few problems
     
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  2. Re: The Ongoing Saga Of The 2E2 Carb. 
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    When you have the air-box off with the engine warm and running the choke flap should be fully open. Is it?
    Or try the same when the engine is cold. Get someone to keep the engine from stalling during tick over. The choke flap should be partially open now. Is it?
    Also, is the auto choke housing getting hot as the engine warms up?

    P.S.Thanks for the warm-air pipe offer.
     
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  3. Re: The Ongoing Saga Of The 2E2 Carb. 
    #13
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    Urm...
    Pass...

    I'll have to get someone at work to help me with this, as my girlfriend wont let me have the car until weds

    I'll let you know how I get on, as I would ideally like to avoid shelling out hundreds on a new carb if its something simple thats wrong with it. Although, I did post on here ages ago about something that used to happen, but hasn't done it in about a year...

    https://www.vwaudiforum.co.uk/forum/s...ad.php?t=32790

    and this was the advice given by the man himself...

    SO... i think its probably not worth me replacing bits left right and centre, as I would have to get a garage to do it, as I know noubt about these thnigs... and therefore the coss would be monumental compared to getting a Weber.

    Also, no probs about the hose.


    1990 Black MKII Golf 1.8 GL. Otherwise known as 'Gumpert' Rampant "Rabbit"

    2011 Rosso Brunello Skoda Superb Estate Elegance 1.6 CR Greenline. Otherwise known as 'Sue'
    1988 Tornado Red MKII Golf 1.8 16valve GTI. Otherwise known as 'Hollie' - Project
     
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  4. Re: The Ongoing Saga Of The 2E2 Carb. 
    #14
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    I've checked out your old thread and getting a better picture now.
    I take onboard everything Crasher says, he's our guru after all.
    I'm just trying to help you check a few things that may not cost you much money, more time and patience than anything. It could be that the choke flap is staying closed too long and causing it to flood. I actually disconnected the choke on mine for a while just to eliminate one problem and see what else was happening. Otherwise it's quite difficult to sus out the symptoms.
    Let me know how you get on.
     
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  5. Re: The Ongoing Saga Of The 2E2 Carb. 
    #15
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    Well I've come to a cul-de-sac now.
    The engine is running really smooth from cold start 1600rpm down to 800rpm when warm. (It used to start at 2000 for a few seconds and then drop to 1600 then slowly down to 800).

    The problem I have now is that as soon as the engine gets up to normal temperature it dies everytime I stop at an island or if I take my foot off the accelerator. (heard this somewhere before?)
    Also there is a slight flat spot when I start off, which can cause the engine to stall if not enough revs are applied.
    This is just pottering around locally and in town traffic, so I really don't think it is icing up. I don't get any 'running on' symptoms.
    It's not the waxstat either because I made a tool to replace the waxstat so I could set it up properly at 800rpm tickover when hot.
    The engine stalls in exactly the same way with the special tool inplace or the waxstat.

    Could it be a vacuum loss somewhere?
    Can anyone offer me some ideas. It's so frustrating, it's nearly there almost perfect but not yet!
     
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  6. Re: The Ongoing Saga Of The 2E2 Carb. 
    #16
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    Mine hasn't done it in about a year now. It seemed to stop doing it after i used Redex a few times, and I did also change my air filter and check all my vacuum hoses (some of which were split at the joins.) This seemed to help me. I assume you've done most of this yourself.


    1990 Black MKII Golf 1.8 GL. Otherwise known as 'Gumpert' Rampant "Rabbit"

    2011 Rosso Brunello Skoda Superb Estate Elegance 1.6 CR Greenline. Otherwise known as 'Sue'
    1988 Tornado Red MKII Golf 1.8 16valve GTI. Otherwise known as 'Hollie' - Project
     
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  7. Re: The Ongoing Saga Of The 2E2 Carb. 
    #17
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    Hi The waxstat is only to keep the engine at a specified rpm on idle, during the warm up period,it has mothing to do with the idle adjustment.First use some easy start, spray around the carb to make sure there is none of the vacuum hoses leaking.Before adjusting the carb,make sure the timing is correct.To adjust the carb properly you really need to be able to analyse the exhaust fumes.Anyway on the RHS of the carb you have a large vacuum box with a rod in the center,this is the idle adjusting.At the rear of the box you will find a screw(14mm spanner)this is the adjusting screw for idle,(screw in for faster) 950rpm.In the center of the carb you will see a 2cm high housing, in the center of this, is the mixture screw, The idea is to syncronize the adjustment with the mixture screw and the idle screw to acheive the right mixture and the right idle speed.The housing for the mixture screw can be removed from the carb and the jet taken out and cleaned ,they tend to get blocked.If the carb mixture is not correct you will never get the engine to idle properly
     
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  8. Re: The Ongoing Saga Of The 2E2 Carb. 
    #18
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    Come to think of it, now you hve mentioned that my workmate and I tightened the throttle cable using that screw and now it idles slightly faster (1100rpm, a bit fast I know, but I'm not bothered). As you have explained to me that all quite simply I shall rummage around and see if I can adjust the mixture as I think its running slightly rich, as you can smell petrol if driving behind me.

    Also, it has developed a hole in the exhaust by the backbox!
    That probably doesn't help either with the back-pressure being all out of sorts!


    1990 Black MKII Golf 1.8 GL. Otherwise known as 'Gumpert' Rampant "Rabbit"

    2011 Rosso Brunello Skoda Superb Estate Elegance 1.6 CR Greenline. Otherwise known as 'Sue'
    1988 Tornado Red MKII Golf 1.8 16valve GTI. Otherwise known as 'Hollie' - Project
     
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  9. Re: The Ongoing Saga Of The 2E2 Carb. 
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    Hi Kenney

    Thanks for your input. These carbs are hellish complicated, so I will try and answer your comments one by one. Here goes….

    The waxstat is only to keep the engine at a specified rpm on idle, during the warm up period,it has mothing to do with the idle adjustment.
    The waxstat is working fine, I only mentioned that I had made the special tool with a specified spindle length, ie 8.15mm to make the engine run at 800rpm, which it does.

    First use some easy start, spray around the carb to make sure there is none of the vacuum hoses leaking.
    This sounds interesting, I am not sure what you mean by ‘easy start’, is this a product?

    Before adjusting the carb,make sure the timing is correct.To adjust the carb properly you really need to be able to analyse the exhaust fumes.Anyway on the RHS of the carb you have a large vacuum box with a rod in the center,this is the idle adjusting.At the rear of the box you will find a screw(14mm spanner)this is the adjusting screw for idle,(screw in for faster) 950rpm.
    I presume you are talking about the throttle plate actuator. As I understand this adjustment you are talking about is only for obtaining 3000rpm with the vacuum line taken off at the T piece just behind it. Once its adjusted for 3000rpm that’s it, you don’t need to go there any more. When the engine is hot, the throttle plate actuator is in the deceleration position (ie push rod totally withdrawn), in fact when in this position it should not actually be touching the throttle stop screw (should be able to get a piece of paper in between).


    In the center of the carb you will see a 2cm high housing, in the center of this, is the mixture screw, The idea is to syncronize the adjustment with the mixture screw and the idle screw to acheive the right mixture and the right idle speed.The housing for the mixture screw can be removed from the carb and the jet taken out and cleaned ,they tend to get blocked.If the carb mixture is not correct you will never get the engine to idle properly

    I will try and clean these jets that you mentioned. As I only do short journeys, there is quite a lot of condensation created through the air box from the engine breather pipe, and from time to time, there is a fair amount of mayonnaise, so yes these jets probably could do with a clean. I have had trouble with the switch over valve (the square one). I had to repair some wiring by making a new plug for this unit and I thought I had cured the problem. For a while, it would start at 2000rpm at cold and stay there instead of dropping down to about 1600rpm. I would have to touch the wiring and it would drop down to the 1600rpm. Recently its starting from 1600rpm, so not quite sure what’s happened here, but I suspect that the problems I have are generally vacuum related. What say you?!
     
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  10. Re: The Ongoing Saga Of The 2E2 Carb. 
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    Hi Easy start is a spray which is used to detect leaks,The proper procedure is as you stated, when cold,runs around 2000-2500rpm for about 6 secs then stabilizes arond 1600rpm and so gradually to around 900rpm.The throttle plate actuator,i call, the 3 or 4 point vacuum box depending on if the vehicle is auto or manual.You say once the adjustment is adjusted for 3000 rpm then there is no further adjusting,this is not so.As i said the screw to the rear of the vacuum box is the adjusting screw for idle
     
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