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Thread: Whats the best polish to use?

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  1. #11
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    Toothpaste applied like T Cut has the same effect but is much milder. I use traditional white by the way. I thought clay bars were for the lumps and bumps? Swirls can be cut back with care but you may need cutting paste and that's when it gets risky. Go through the lacquer and it's a panel spray job to make it right. The art of good polishing is about the duster/cloth, how much polish is ingrained in it, the amount of pressure applied and direction, and the amount of water on the cloth. I've had black cars for years so any of you with black experience will understand why I can bore for England about polishing. At present I'm using mutton cloth and yellow dusters. They need changing often. I would never use a drill - far too risky.
    Gogsy
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    #12
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    Meguiars is my prefered choice, stocked at Halfords now I believe.
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    #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by MalcQV View Post
    Not used one but are clay bars not used for swirl removal?
    Clay bars are not for swirl or any other scratch removal. They, along with plenty of lube, are designed to remove bonded contamination like grit and oxidation. They have to be used carefully as they can scratch and marr the clearcoat. I applied too much pressure on my ming blue A4 recently and was apalled when the sun struck my car.

    No danger though as I was about to rotary polish my car.

    As for hand polishing scratches out of VAG paint then good luck to all. It is hard work with a dual action or even rotary, believe me. However, removing them with machine removes them permanently, with some of the polishes mentioned in this thread, they are merely filled and will return at a later date.

    The polishes I used were from the Menzerna PRO range and are German made and were commissioned by Mercedes to deal with the tough ceramic clearcoat German finishes. I believe Merc use them on their own production line. I can't imagine applying them by hand though.

    In removing my swirls I used Power Gloss (S34A), Intensive Polish (PO91L) followed by Final Finish Polish (106FF). I managed to get rid of about 90% of the surface swirls along with 5 years of oxidation. The final outcome was amazing though and I would thoroughly recommend saving around £150-£200 to have your whole car done, with a couple of layers of paste Carnauba wax as the final layer. You end up with paintwork in arguably a better condition than when it was intially supplied.

    This type of money is peanuts compared to what you will pay to have say a key scratch fixed or a dent removed and you have a 'new' car into the bargain. It is a service that is very much overlooked, but once discovered you will always consider it.

    Hope this helps.
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    #14
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    PS, If any VAG owner is interested in having swirls and cobwebs removed then please PM me.

    Work would also include German acrylic sealant and/or quality paste Carnauba wax for around 6-9 months protection.

    Check out this thread:

    http://www.polishedbliss.co.uk/acatalog/april.html
    Last edited by JR001; 13-05-2007 at 08:59 PM. Reason: extra info
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  5. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by JR001 View Post
    PS, If any VAG owner is interested in having swirls and cobwebs removed then please PM me.

    Work would also include German acrylic sealant and/or quality paste Carnauba wax for around 6-9 months protection.

    Check out this thread:

    http://www.polishedbliss.co.uk/acatalog/april.html
    I use an acrylic sealant on mine. Was recommended it by a guy who owned a firm that sold car polish etc. (he recommended this over a more expensive product as i had a white car).
    I've still got some left so i used it on my red Golf and it keeps its shine very well.

    Have heard good things about p21s.
    Have a look here http://www.lancerregister.com/showth...highlight=p21s
    Ex Golf GT TDi 150. Then an Evo 8. Then a Honda S2000. Now an Evo 5 (and a little pug 106)
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  6. #16
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    JR001, cheers, since looked into this and realised what a clay bar is for ta.
    One German, Two Italian.
    It's a Mercedes Benzzzz though
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  7. #17
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    http://www.dtconcours.com/, this is what i used on the previous car (midnight blue) and the results are stunning. its their 3-2-1 kit or something like that. You get a clay bar and lube, mild paint cleanser and Carnuba finishing wax.

    As metioned, clay bars lift the imbedded lumps of stuff out of the paint (must be kept clean though, if you drop it on the ground whilst using it, its buggered!), then cleanse, rubbing in straight lines only This removes the oxidised paint etc, then polish, again in straight lines (no swirl marks then!). For a better description, I think there is a guide to its use om the web site somewhere.
    Mark
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  8. #18
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    Quote Originally Posted by dessimpson View Post
    I use an acrylic sealant on mine. Was recommended it by a guy who owned a firm that sold car polish etc. (he recommended this over a more expensive product as i had a white car).
    I've still got some left so i used it on my red Golf and it keeps its shine very well.

    Have heard good things about p21s.
    Have a look here http://www.lancerregister.com/showth...highlight=p21s
    Yes, acrylic sealants are excellent final protection layers on your paint. They are highly reflective and give a good 'shine'. They tend to be recommende for coulours that can't give much depth eg white, silver, light greys etc. If the surface is properly prepared and decontaminated they will generally give an extra 3 months protection compared to a similar quality wax. Water generally sheets more than beads on acrylic layers. On waxes it will bead superbly. When the beading/sheeting starts to diminsh then your protective layer needs topping up after the next wash.

    P21S, I toyed with this (cleanser and concours wax) before doing my A4 but decided on JEFFS Werkstatt Acrylic sealant and Zymol HD Cleanser (potent and awesome) before topping off with Carbon. The Carbon gives a nice wet look as well as giving the rich colour more depth. This complements the highly reflective clarity of the German sealant. I may still buy the P21S for my kit perhaps to use on another car in the future.

    The durability of P21S wax is not its best feature though, and Collinites and Zymols win in this respect. There are so many well-priced paste waxes out there though and choosing can sometimes be purely on someone's advice. That's why I chose mine. But I'm now looking at Chemical Guys' Petes 53 Signature paste wax which is getting fantastic reviews in detailing circles. A friend of mine has seen a silver TT (http://www.detailingworld.co.uk/foru...tes+53+audi+tt) with this on it and it gives amazing depth and clarity for silver which is no mean feat. He now wants me to put this on his own TT as final layer. Well worth adding to any kit.

    I will post up the pics when the job is completed.

    What colour you got?
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  9. #19
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    Quote Originally Posted by JR001 View Post

    I will post up the pics when the job is completed.

    What colour you got?
    Pics now available.

    Decided to just use the Zymol Carbon as the final layer on the TT!!
    Glad I did. It made the 7-yr old wee cracker look very wet and better than new. Here's how it looks on freshly-machined and HD Cleansed Silver:







    The full TT job can be viewed at the following thread:

    https://www.vwaudiforum.co.uk/forum/s...ead.php?t=9751

    Cheers.
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  10. #20
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    That looks really good but if you want that shine to last, go on to ebay and get a Autoglym lifeshine kit about £15 or so, it cost over £300 to have it done by the pro's, i did it to my golf 4motion, it look like new. it is so much better than the autoglym from the shops.
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