Replacing Radiator PD 150

[KashBash]

Hello All,

Just bought a radiator to replace the existing as there is a leak somewhere. My mate is going to fit (he's a mechanic), but has never done so on a Golf. He thinks that it will take time as it requires removing the intercooler. But I have read that removing the radiator should be removed after taking the bumper covers and etc ie removing from the front.

Can someone confirm how the radiator is to be removed and replaced?

Thanks

[tdi_power]

You have to take the entire front off the car, inc bumper, reinforcer & front panel. The water rad, aircon rad, fans and intercooler are all screwed together as a complete unit which is called the rad pack. Its not as bigger job as it sounds just alot of torx screws to undo!

[aBoijj]

I can't take credit for this personally - I plucked the following from a website (can't remember where though)

Radiator change Golf 4 TDI
==========================

Looks like the radiator on a Mk4 Golf TDI is an expendable item. Mine is 8 years old and has only done 50000 miles. Seepages on both side of radiator indicated only staining by red coolant at the edges of the radiator. No noticeable drop in level in the coolant reservoir.

Changing a radiator is quite straight forward, but quite a lengthy process, principally because the front bumper need to be removed to gain access to the four Torx headed screws which hold the four rubber radiator mountings in place.

The bumper must be removed but the headlamps can remain in place. Removing the battery gives good access for the business side of the radiator itself.
Remove the fan and mounting in situ.

Don’t even bother starting without jacking the front of the car up sufficiently to raise the front wheel off the ground. It mades life much easier by removing the engine under shield at the start. This is also fastened with Torx headed self tapper.

Removing and replacing the bumper is easy enough for one person to handle. There are four Torx self tappers on the inside edge of the front wing and five special setscrews, (including two underneath each headlight unit)which can be only be accessed by removing the two grills on either side.

The hose outlets which are retained by stainless steel clips can be stubborn to remove from the radiator. Light taps with a delicate hammer will easily remove them once the stainless steel slips have been sprung into their resting position.

The bonnet release catch can be awkward to spread open without the chance of breaking it. The most controlled method of spreading it is a pair of outside circlip pliers.

The top and bottom rubber mountings are different. It is important to note that whilst the two lower radiator rubber mountings are not handed the top two, can only be fitted with the “notch” at the top. This is quite obvious if they are inserted in the mounting on the car before attaching them to the radiator.


Essential tools
===============

Appropriate sized Torx drivers and hose clip spreaders and a 30mm deep socket or ring spanner to remove the temperate sensor.

Other parts which must be renewed as a matter of course are the two O rings inside the top and bottom hose outlets.

The only other matter is replacing the coolant. The TDI capacity is 6 litres and VW recommend at leady 40% of their own anti additive.

The problem with the TDI is getting the coolant in and getting rid of the air locks.

Ensure that the heater is fully on, fill the reservoir and try removing some air by squeezing the large hoses. It is quite obvious when these hoses become full of coolant because of the added resistance when squeezing them. Removing the overflow pipe and blowing hard down the pipe helps in the initial stages. When a reasonable quantity has been put into the system drive the vehicle for a mile, instead of letting it tick over and then top up. This accelerates the process of getting up to normal operating temperature.

Keep an eye on the level for a few days and top up if necessary.

Hope this might be helpful to someone.