Fuse Diagram For Passat Diesel 2007 SEL 170

[J Cookson]

Does anyone have a B6 Fuse diagram for a UK 2007 VW Passat Saloon SEL 170 Diesel as the manuals all have Fuse diagrams for LHD Cars. If not do you have a similar Vehicle (Diesel) that you could take a Photo of each Fuse box (Left/Right Dashboard) so that I could use that to compare fuse allocations. The manual is so confusig because many of the Fuses allocated in the manual are not the correct Amps or Slots plus the orientation of the Fuse holders is not correct either.

Any help would be appreciated.

The images are my Fuse Boxes at the moment

Passenger.jpgDrivers.jpg

Thanks in advance

[VAG-Abound]

What are you trying to track down? Might be easier to look at specific circuits.

EDIT: Driver's side looks about right if you have heated seats and tow bar electrics. Passenger less so...

Numbering is consistent, but mirrored. Always low numbers at back, nearest door hinge. Then increasing as you move towards cabin. So UK drivers side is 6-1 as you look at it, but that'd be 1-6 in LHD models. If you use your favourite image editing program to flip the image of an LHD panel left-right the colours should start to line up for you.

[Crasher]

There is no definitive fuse layout diagram for fuse board SC of SA (engine bay front) SB (engine bay upper) SC (dash right), SD (dash left) and some cases SE and SF in the boot... it is all application specific.

[J Cookson]

What are you trying to track down? Might be easier to look at specific circuits.

EDIT: Driver's side looks about right if you have heated seats and tow bar electrics. Passenger less so...

Numbering is consistent, but mirrored. Always low numbers at back, nearest door hinge. Then increasing as you move towards cabin. So UK drivers side is 6-1 as you look at it, but that'd be 1-6 in LHD models. If you use your favourite image editing program to flip the image of an LHD panel left-right the colours should start to line up for you.

Heated seats defo...No Tow Bar + the connector in the Bottom Passenger Box is a hard wire for the Dashcam.

With the fuses appearing not to correspond to the slots and Amps as per mirrored diagrams it causes me issues. For example slot 28 should be for Rear Door Control Units but slot is a Blank in the fuse bank. I am trying find out where that is to check it out because both the rear windows have stopped working. The child lock is not activated, the Master Door switch is fine (Drivers) indeed it is a new one, the rear door window switches don't work on their own either (not even a noise) so I need to check the exact fuse and location (inc any connected relays) to rule that out before I start stripping all the doors/panels down to check the wiring but for both doors to stop working at exactly the same time is strange because it rules out the Regulator Door Modules unless both failed at exactly the same time which I very much doubt. It is defo an electrical fault. I can't trace back if I can't find the start point ie fuse box.

I had the car from new and the only repair it has had was the front Passenger Door Door Module being replaced by a VW Garage and I replaced the Radio/CD. A while later the rear windows stopped working. I haven't even needed to change a fuse but as it stands I wouldn't know what fuse to change/check because nothing appears to correspond to the diagrams (changing ALL the fuses won't solve that problem because I still wouldn't know what they are for or be able to ensure the right Amp Fuse would be used to ensure no other damage would be caused to other circutry through power under/overload etc).

Of all the cars (Ford, Vauxhall, Toyota, Honda etc I have had this is the first time I have been unable to recognise the Fuse Allocations because there appears to be no actual schematic.

[VAG-Abound]

Fuse 28 is labelled for that from May 2008, but so is 35. Try 23 on the other side for a 30A as well (to April 2008). EDIT: But your picture of that row looks very different to what the diagrams show anyway.

A handy tip when unsure what is feeding what may be to use a multimeter on the little "peek points" on top of each fuse with ignition in ACC position. Crocodile clip / wirewrap to a handy bit of chassis, then point of +ve probe into the little hole on the load side. You'll usually get 12V. Check on the supply side that it is same - if not the fuse has probably blown.

You can tell the supply side from load side if you look into the board with a fuse removed next to a not-in-use slot. Both will have a shared supply "rail", but only the in use one has a connector on the load side. The rails can be "mirrored" across a pair of fuse ways: supply rail at top of one row but at bottom of next.

[philipharmes]

Have you checked the wiring in the drivers door hinge rubber bellows.

About 50% of problems with door locks & windows seem to be due to broken wires inside the bellows.
The wires break due to bending every time the door is opened.

Check the wires carefully as they may apear ok, but are just being held together with the insulation.