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Thread: Front discs, pads, and bearings

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  1. Front discs, pads, and bearings 
    #1
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    The front brakes need replacing as does the NSF bearing.

    I've spent hours watching YouTube how-to's and I've laid out a fairly comprehensive step by step process to follow (which I'd like to think might help others once I know it's correct). Is there anything missing below? Any considerations while doing certain parts? And most importantly, are any parts wrong?

    I'm fully aware it won't be this straight forward in practise and I'll no doubt come across difficulties, but any tips and feedback is most appreciated!

    1. Unscrew brake fluid reservoir cap

    2. Loosen wheel bolts 17mm

    3. Loosen 12 point 24mm hub bolt

    4. Jack car up, place on axle stand

    5. Remove wheel

    6. Use long screwdriver to spread brake pads (allowing room to remove later)

    7. Remove dust caps from caliper guide pins

    8. Remove pins - T45 torx or 7mm hex/Allen key x2

    9. Remove pad retaining clip/wire

    Caliper can now be removed

    10. Hang caliper with zip tie

    11. Remove caliper carrier bracket bolts x2 with 21mm socket

    Caliper carrier bracket can now be removed

    12. Remove brake disc screw with T30 torx

    Brake disc can now be removed

    Bearing section begins

    13. Remove 3x 16mm (why 16mm VW?!) nuts from ball joint

    14. Move lower control arm from the ball joint bolts

    15. Remove 12 point axle bolt and push axle out through the bearing

    16. Remove 4x M12 12 point bolts

    Bearing can now be removed

    17. Clean surface with wire brush

    18. Fit new bearing with 4x M12 12 point bolts. Tighten each to 70nm + half turn

    19. Replace axle (does this require any lubrication?)

    20. Refit lower control arm, replace 3 x 16mm nuts. Tighten to 60nm

    21. Fit new 12 point 24mm hub bolt and tighten to 70nm

    Bearing section finished

    22. Fit new disc, secure with T30 Torx bolt (copper grease on bearing face?)

    23. Clean brake caliper carrier bracket with brake cleaner and wire brush

    24. Apply copper grease to carrier bracket where brake pad contacts

    25. Fit caliper carrier bracket with 21mm bolts. Tighten to 75nm

    26. Clean brake caliper, and wind back piston

    27. Fit new pads (outside pad on to carrier, inside pad to caliper), fit caliper back in place

    28. Replace 2x 7mm caliper pins. Tighten to 35nm. Replace dust caps

    29. Replace brake pad retaining wire

    30. Spray copper grease on disc where it contacts the wheel

    31. Replace wheel and wheel bolts

    32. Lower car

    33. Tighten hub bolt - 90 degree turn

    34. Tighten wheel bolts - 120nm

    35. Replace brake fluid cap

    36. Have a beer
     
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  2. Re: Front discs, pads, and bearings 
    #2
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    Technically it is a bearing hub assembly, the bearing change itself is an extension of the process if you do not want to buy the pre pressed hub assemblies.

    Wheel speed sensor? Can be damaged when replacing front hub assembly. Undo, remove, clean and refit after the hub assembly is replaced.

    Quote from workshop manual: "Tighten drive axle hex bolt. Note: When doing this, vehicle must not stand on wheels, otherwise wheel bearing may be damaged" hence when removing undo no more than 1/4 turn before raising car and when torqueing a new bolt do it in the air first then put the car on the ground.

    Grease the axle splines, doesn't hurt, keeps the corrosion off and make them easier to remove later.

    Grease the caliper guide pins, they are static not the springy floating type.

    Push back the front pistons, they are not the wind type. Also check their condition and that of the rubber gaitor.

    Check the brake reservoir periodically to ensure it does not overflow when pushing the pistons back. If it is already full remove some fluid.

    Press the foot brake a few times before you have your beer to reapply the new pads to the disc, otherwise that first stop may be way longer than you thought!
    Mad Mitch
    VW Passat 2.0 Tdi Sport 170 BMR Engine, JPQ G/Box, DSG
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  3. Re: Front discs, pads, and bearings 
    #3
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    Thanks for taking the time to write this up .

    My only thought/change is at point 30 about lube for the disc/wheel contact face.

    I use Corrosion Block grease ('cus I've a tub from my biking days) as you're trying to avoid the alloy corroding itself to the metal disc. But copper grease is far better than nothing as those of us that have had the joys of getting a corroded wheel off will know.



    Andy.

    Corrosion Block - Anti-Corrosion compound, oil and grease
     
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  4. Re: Front discs, pads, and bearings 
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    Thanks for the feedback, I imagine a lot of B6's are heading towards bearing replacement age and people like myself would rather learn to DIY rather than pay out hundreds!

    I've found quite a few subtle differences between the ways various people have done it so I'd like to think this brings them altogether, and makes sense.

    @DMitch16 one video specifically stated not to grease the caliper guide pins, just clean off corrosion and replace, as any lubrication can actually work against them and clog them up. What's the general opinion on this?
     
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  5. Re: Front discs, pads, and bearings 
    #5
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    So I attempted this tonight and got as far as step 6 before I ran in to trouble 😂

    A few questions:

    1) Do the pads need to be spread? I couldn't see any gaps to get get any leverage to move anything. Am I looking to put something between the inner pad and the disc to slightly move the piston?

    2) I have an automatic - does this make any difference to the procedure? When I was trying to spread the pads, I realised I couldn't freely spin the wheel (which I'd seen in the videos). I figured I'd need to put it in neutral (it was in park) which of course allowed the wheel to spin. I'm guessing the EPB can stay on and has no effect on the front wheels? I'm just wondering if this has anything to do with question 1.

    3) Why oh why do VW use 7mm hex screws, as these don't seem to be in any tool kits. I had no idea a 7mm was so rare, I've got multiple Allen keys, socket bits, etc but no 7mm hex 😂 So I couldn't remove the guide pins to attempt the caliper removal

    Sorry for the basic questions but I'm an absolute amateur but determined to do this and do it properly!
     
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  6. Re: Front discs, pads, and bearings 
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    To answer your earlier question, I have always used a silicone based grease on such guide pins, never had them clogg.

    To answer your current predicament 1) if your piston is in good condition, you should be able to pull the caliper outward away from the wheel hub by hand which should give you room to lever the inside pad, which will now have movement, through the caliper hole. Alternatively use a pry or thin crow bar to lever under the caliper fingers - I have a small flat crow bar with the end perfectly angled to do this should there not be any room between the disc and pad to lever there. It should not need more than moderate force to make the piston retract. Or do it the other way if you have a piston retraction / wind back tool by creating enough gap to remove the caliper then use the tool to push back the piston once the pads are removed. 2) It does not matter whether you have a manual or automatic but yes one locks the axle the other does not. Makes little difference and I use the large screwdriver in the vent holes to lock it against the caliper if I need the disc not to spin, usually for other jobs. I have 1/2 inch Bergen hex sockets in a nice metal box which has the 7mm size in the set - we're only £10 or so and very good quality.
    Mad Mitch
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  7. Re: Front discs, pads, and bearings 
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    I managed to do the discs and pads in both sides with no dramas, but I couldn't get the hub bolt to budge so I haven't yet done the bearing. I've got some time off work so I'm planning on buying a 1m steel tube from B&Q in the hope it'll help with the bolt!

    Since doing the brakes, they've been really bloody squeaky at low speeds particularly in reverse. I assumed it was a new brake thing, but it's been a few weeks and a few hundred miles, and they still squeak. Is there anything I can do to stop this?
     
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  8. Re: Front discs, pads, and bearings 
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    The driveshaft bolts can be very hard to remove. A 3/4" breaker bar and suitable socket should help.

    Not sure if the replacement bolts are same on your car, but on the Golf it is 70Nm for the ones with ribbing under the head. Smooth ones are 200Nm plus 90 degrees.
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  9. Re: Front discs, pads, and bearings 
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    I’ve learnt the hard way with the wishbone bolts, use an impact driver or you’ll just shear them and you’ll need a new ball joint. I’ve tried cleaning and oiling and they still just shear. Using an impact driver they just rattle loose.

    Hub bolt, well you need a 1/2 inch socket and a long scaffolding pole like you say. Make sure your socket has a good purchase as the force required to release these is ridiculous.

    Your noisy pads, have you made sure you put any anti rattle shims back in? How tight are the pads in the runners? If they are too loose and don’t have any sort of shim they are gonna screech.
     
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  10. Re: Front discs, pads, and bearings 
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    Quote Originally Posted by jonathanfenton View Post
    I’ve learnt the hard way with the wishbone bolts, use an impact driver or you’ll just shear them and you’ll need a new ball joint. I’ve tried cleaning and oiling and they still just shear. Using an impact driver they just rattle loose.

    Hub bolt, well you need a 1/2 inch socket and a long scaffolding pole like you say. Make sure your socket has a good purchase as the force required to release these is ridiculous.

    Your noisy pads, have you made sure you put any anti rattle shims back in? How tight are the pads in the runners? If they are too loose and don’t have any sort of shim they are gonna screech.
    I have a DCF899 that wallops out over 1600 Nm of breakaway torque - makes light work of the hub bolts.

    Pads should in most cases be a perfect fit into the tin wäre and the caliper once refitted should easily move left and right before the pads are compressed to the disc with the usual pre drive brake pedal pump. No pads should be too loose or too tight otherwise there is a fitment issue to sort out or they are simply the wrong pads.
    Mad Mitch
    VW Passat 2.0 Tdi Sport 170 BMR Engine, JPQ G/Box, DSG
    Premium Phone Kit, MFSW, Alarm Chirps, Rain Closure, Auto Close
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