Wheres the ERG in 2012 Audi A6 SE TDI

[johnsimcox]

Your car should have an EA189 engine, luckily the EGR is not too bad to access and just to the left of the engine.

They are supposed to be swapped out although I cleaned my valve and cooler two weeks ago and the car seems perfect so far.

Attachment 37057

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clearly I was wrong and now I think about it my first C7 was affected by the recall, albeit that I changed it before I was notified

[davlin]

One of my replies said that you can't get a Hayes workshop manual for a A6.
have you heard of these guys?
A6 Manual.jpg

[davlin]

Is This a hard job to do. I'm a joiner by trade but I've been working on cars since I was 17. The last major job I done was pull the engine and gearbox out of a VW Passat and done the timing belt so I don't mind getting my hands dirty. Someone posted me when I enquired about a Hayes Workshop Manual and said there wasn't one, but I looked up the net and found a company called Emanuals.com. Ever heard of them and is it worth buying?
A6 Manual.jpg

[janakson]

Hi Davlin,

Sorry it's taken some time to get back to you. My car didn't display MIL/CEL or go into limp mode but did have an insufficient flow code. The job wasn't too hard considering it was the first non-service job I've done on the car. Removing and reinstalling the EGR+Cooler took about 4 hours of working casually. Cleaning the cooler cores and getting the gunk out of them however took almost a whole day. While there we also did the Throttle Valve (J338) and associated piping, Air Mass Meter (MAF) and air box.

You will need to start by confirming your exact EA189 engine - the engine code can be found on the PR code sticker. On our cars this is located in the spare wheel well. The sticker looks like the below;
http://wiki.ross-tech.com/wiki/image...r_comments.jpg

The following parts list applies to engine codes: CGLC, CGLD, CMGB, CGLE

Audi Parts List:
G A13 A8J M1 - G13 Coolant 1.5L
03L 131 546 N - Gasket (x3) (Superseded - Orig. PN. 03K 131 547 C)
03L 131 547 D - Gasket
04L 131 547 S - Gasket (Superseded - Orig. PN. 03L 131 547 L)
070 131 548 C - Clip
03L 131 547 B - Seal
03L 131 120 A - Washer
Total Cost from Dealer: £73.57 inc. VAT

Usual Workshop Tools:
Various Ratchets
Torque Wrench
Socket Set
Hose Clip Pliers
Long Nose Pliers
Trim removal tool (Lock Carrier Cover)

Additional Tools/Consumables:
- STP EGR Cleaner 300ml or similar (x5)

- Long reach screwdriver (300mm x 5mm ) (Core diameter is 6mm)
sourcing map #1 Phillips Screwdriver 12 Inch Round Shaft Non Slip Comfortable Handle: Amazon.co.uk: DIY & Tools

- Long length Torx bits (100mm)
Torx Screwdriver Bits, Hakkin 9pcs S2 Steel 100mm T6-T40 Long Magnetic Star Torx Security Screwdriver Bits Set 1/4 Hex Shank: Amazon.co.uk: DIY & Tools

- Copaslip High Temperature Grease (In place of High Temperature Paste G 052 112 A3)

- Tape to mask off holes + Bungs to block coolant lines (or DIY it on the day)

Procedure:
We followed the procedure described in VW's ELSAWin software, unfortunately it is against forum rules to share this material on here. ELSAWin/ERWIN are the workshop manuals you are referring to.

Feel free drop me a PM and I can send these over to you. Alternatively you can get a temporary subscription to ERWIN using https://erwin.audi.com/erwin/showHome.do which will allow you to download the necessary documents.

We deviated from the procedure by not draining all the coolant - instead we covered off the DPF/Turbo and electrical connectors in the area so that they didn't get wet and bunged the coolant lines as soon as its disconnected. There will be coolant in the cooler so keep it steady when removing it, there are some cables in the way towards the front of the engine so this will need to be held to the side while removing the cooler.

Once the EGR+Cooler assembly is removed there are 6 bolts that need to be removed and the two will separate. There is a gasket in the assembly that you will need to keep and reuse, I was unsuccessful in finding a replacement gasket.

We cleaned the cores by repeatedly spraying EGR cleaner in and then pushing the carbon through with the long screwdriver. The cores go straight through to the bottom and do not form a U bend. You will want to keep the screwdriver or file straight so as not to breach the side walls in the cores - I don't know the exact construction but I imagine this could cause a coolant leak?

Once we got as much as possible out, any water we put down the cores came out clean. We waited for it to dry and then hit it with an air line until the air coming back out was also clear.

On restart the car no longer had an insufficient flow warning and drives exactly the same with no issues.

The following YouTube links may also come in handy;
Audi Q5 Tdi 2014 CGLC - EGR & intake clean Part1 - YouTube
Audi Q5 Tdi CGLC - EGR & intake clean part2 - YouTube