i need new coil springs

[FrenchAudi]

johnro79.

Did you make sure the wheels were on the ground, with the suspension and shock absorbers in the normal, loaded, position before you tightened all the nuts and bolts passing through bonded rubber connections?

The bonded rubber bushes can only be rotated to a certain extent, so the bolted connections though them should only be tightened with the wheels on the ground. Otherwise they will be subjected to increased torsional stress, there will be increased resistance to their movement, making the suspension feel harder, and their service life will be severely shortened.

There should be ample warnings about this in the repair manual you are using.

[johnro79]

johnro79.

Did you make sure the wheels were on the ground, with the suspension and shock absorbers in the normal, loaded, position before you tightened all the nuts and bolts passing through bonded rubber connections?

The bonded rubber bushes can only be rotated to a certain extent, so the bolted connections though them should only be tightened with the wheels on the ground. Otherwise they will be subjected to increased torsional stress, there will be increased resistance to their movement, making the suspension feel harder, and their service life will be severely shortened.

There should be ample warnings about this in the repair manual you are using.

thanks for your input on this.
my suspension is normal, nothing self adjusting (air or electronic one)

does this apply to me too? i've seen a lot of posts regarding this for fancy suspensions , nothing for the one i've got.

thanks again







EDIT: a nice video i found explaining what's what with suspension loading and tightening : YouTube

[FrenchAudi]

It applies to all cars, not just Audis, which have bonded rubber bushes in the suspension. Which is probably all cars made after about 1960

[johnro79]

After weeks of going back and forth, this is what I have as a replacement choice.

Now looking to see if they're ok for my car




20200730_100940.jpg


20200730_101006.jpg

20200730_101029.jpg

20200730_101038.jpg

[Crasher]

Using your VIN they are the correct part numbers BUT ETKA doesn't call it "FI suggestion" for nothing so it would be nice of the colour codes are still there on the originals to cross check.

[johnro79]

Using your VIN they are the correct part numbers BUT ETKA doesn't call it "FI suggestion" for nothing so it would be nice of the colour codes are still there on the originals to cross check.

from a post you've done on the 1st page, i have an extra white dot on the rear ones
old ones are long gone and can't crosscheck

[Crasher]

8K0 511 115 HA should be 1 x green, 1x grey and 3 x white

[johnro79]

8K0 511 115 HA should be 1 x green, 1x grey and 3 x white

got me worried there. that's what i've got.
i'm booked for next thursday to have them replaced.
hope they'll stretch the shock to give them a little travel distance. right now it feels like shocks are being compressed to the max

fingers crossed

[Crasher]

I would go armed with at least rear bump stops, they take a right beating.

[johnro79]

Wow. What an improvement. Having the right coils on a car stops it from wobbling with the road

Now, having driven the car for 2 months leaning on shocks only and hitting every dent, I'm worried I've damaged the shocks. Car still wobbles firmly left and right, shorter distances now with good new springs, but when I go over small humps 1-3 inches , even at low speeds, it feels like a hard impact instead of a smooth ride over them

Besides a push and bounce and a visual leakage test, how else could I test them now?

Been drivin the car 2-3 months with these shocks and bad springs and now for about 3 days with the same shocks and new springs