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Thread: Replacing the Auxiliary / Fan /Serpentine belt + tensioner on a 2.0L B8

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  1. Replacing the Auxiliary / Fan /Serpentine belt + tensioner on a 2.0L B8 
    #1
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    How big a job is replacing the fan belt and tensioner on these 2.0L B8 A's. 2010 year car. I've changed fan belts before but only on engines where the belt is at the side of the engine like Golf's / Focus, etc...

    Access looks very tight, I believe the front can be pulled forward into a sort of service position when the front bumper is removed, etc.. Do I have to disconnect any coolant hoses to move the front forward?

    I can't see how the tensioner is bolted to the engine from looking down at it, can anyone tell me, I can't see any mounting bolts or flange around it?

    Is there any special tools needed, I seen someone saying a special low profile short Tx60 is needed to release the tensioner if the front isn't pulled forward but I think was only for the 3.0L engine versions? What tool is needed to release the tension on the 2.0L engine? Also is it only the 3.0L tensioner that can have either the M10 or M11 bolts? Is there only 1 bolt type used on the 2.0L engines?

    Is it straight forward and good access once the front is pulled forward or is it still a pain in the as s even then, lol. Reason, I'm looking into it is there's a noise coming from the area and the tensioner is jumping around a bit, but from searching / reading on here a lot of folk seem to have experienced alternator pulley issues so now wondering if there's a worn / faulty pulley putting strain on the tensioner that will need changing too, hmmmm.

    Appreciate any tips before I commit
     
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  2. Re: Replacing the Auxiliary / Fan /Serpentine belt + tensioner on a 2.0L B8 
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    Did you ever get a result from this? Looking at replacing mine at it imploded!!!
     
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  3. Re: Replacing the Auxiliary / Fan /Serpentine belt + tensioner on a 2.0L B8 
    #3
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    Ive just fought with mine and it's an utter nightmare. My 2015 2.0l 163 TDI is as tight as a tight thing. Two M10 spline bolts hold the tensioner in place but they're deep down. the top one isn't too bad but the lower one is dreadful. I bought an M10 spline bit from Halfords and used a 10mm ratcheting ring spanner -but even that wasn't easy. I'm considering 3d printing a tool to put it back - but I can't see how it's going back in without taking the front end off. Honestly, its like keyhole surgery!
     
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