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Thread: BiTdi Electronic Turbo Actuator?

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  1. Re: BiTdi Electronic Turbo Actuator? 
    #11
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    Hi, thanks for your listing as I seem to have the same issue, and has educated me. Just a couple of quick questions if possible.
    1: How long did it take you to remove and was it straight forward.
    2: I’ve looked everywhere but can only find the actuator at the main dealers or Tps but a lot more expensive. Can you say where you got yours.
     
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  2. Re: BiTdi Electronic Turbo Actuator? 
    #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by hants diesels View Post
    Hi, thanks for your listing as I seem to have the same issue, and has educated me. Just a couple of quick questions if possible.
    1: How long did it take you to remove and was it straight forward.
    2: I’ve looked everywhere but can only find the actuator at the main dealers or Tps but a lot more expensive. Can you say where you got yours.

    Mine came from here....

    Turbocharger Electronic Actuator G-098 Audi A6 A7 Q5 SQ5 3.0 TDI NEW Original | eBay

    Removal is a bit of a mission. Approx 2 hours.

    My actuator had an electronic fault, apparently physical faults inside the actuator with the worm gear are more common.

    How much is the actuator from the dealer?
    I would happily have paid a bit extra for a guaranteed brand new one.

    Good luck.
     
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  3. Re: BiTdi Electronic Turbo Actuator? 
    #13
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    Yes took a while to remove, cut my hands up on exhaust heat shield and one of the bolts was two threads away from coming out but the oil feed pipe was in the way and didn’t have the right tools at home so another 30 extra mins later it’s out, again a hella unit same as yours but the worm gear looked ok. So yes ordered one from dealer outlet at £255+vat and due Wednesday, let’s hope it’s going to be ok
     
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  4. Re: BiTdi Electronic Turbo Actuator? 
    #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by hants diesels View Post
    Yes took a while to remove, cut my hands up on exhaust heat shield and one of the bolts was two threads away from coming out but the oil feed pipe was in the way and didn’t have the right tools at home so another 30 extra mins later it’s out, again a hella unit same as yours but the worm gear looked ok. So yes ordered one from dealer outlet at £255+vat and due Wednesday, let’s hope it’s going to be ok

    I think the Hella aspect may be a red herring that I'd read about and repeated, due to some people's confusion.

    Obviously the BiTdi has two separate turbos, the one on the top has a 'traditional' actuator and the lower one has the electronic actuator; I suspect that they all have the same Hella electronic actuator on the lower turbo and the info' regarding the two entirely different types of actuator has become misinterpreted somewhere along the line.

    My guess is that it's only the upper turbo's traditional actuator that needs to be calibrated and that the electronic ones are all 'self-calibrating'.

    Hope it works for you.
    Mine ran perfectly from the word go and the light went out immediately.

    Currently managing 3 weeks to the gallon too.
     
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  5. Re: BiTdi Electronic Turbo Actuator? 
    #15
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    Fixed?
     
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  6. Re: BiTdi Electronic Turbo Actuator? 
    #16
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    Hi thanks for your post, was very informative and has helped me diagnose my 2013 A6 C7 3.0 V6 BiTDI with the same actuator fault. Symptoms started off intermittent turbo lag or hesitation around 2300-3000rpm with no fault codes or warning lights, it would just hold back when giving it some beans. Driving yesterday a bit spirited, car goes into limp mode, coil light flashing, no engine management light. I've got Carista OBD2 dongle so cleared the code on route and it came straight back and it was in limp mode all the way home.

    I hooked up VCDS and found engine fault code 9126 - Actuator Module for Turbocharger 1 P00AF00 - Stuck
    I tried the output test and the actuator rod moved, but its movement was not smooth when moving, it jerked. With the engine off, when I put my finger on the actuator coupling and I can move it with next to no force. This Turbo Actuator is also referred to as a J724 module.





    I was looking at getting a new J724 actuator after reading your post so I read the Audi workshop manual online for removal instructions to get an idea on what I need to remove (www.cardiagn.com).

    After reading workshop manual it says that the J724 module for the bitdi needs to be calibrated using a special tool VAS 6395/7 bracket and calibration handheld computer VAS 6395. Apparently you've got to fit the bracket and cycle the rod so it touches the bracket and record the voltage, cycle it off the bracket and record the voltage. Do this 3 times and then get a average voltage, add 0.020V - 0.030V to the calculated average and this is what you need to set the new J724 actuator unit to before you fully tighten it into position.

    You can increase the voltage by moving the unit up in the retainer (not fully tightened when setting/calibrating), or decrease it by moving down, but the voltage of the new unit when cycled with VAS6395 must not differ from the average value for the old actuator unit by more than +/- 0.020V otherwise can lead to problems with noise and/or driveability.

    I'm bit confused because you have said your car is fixed and driving perfect and you didn't need to set (calibrate) it?

    Did you get lucky with refitting the unit in the right location?
     
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  7. Re: BiTdi Electronic Turbo Actuator? 
    #17
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    That's great info' RanjT.

    You've obviously uncovered more info' than I managed to.
    Once mine was fitted and running properly, I just accepted that it was fixed.

    Yours looks more like physically damaged gears; my gears were fine and it was an electrical fault on the unit's board.

    Quote Originally Posted by RanjT View Post

    I was looking at getting a new J724 actuator after reading your post so I read the Audi workshop manual online for removal instructions to get an idea on what I need to remove (www.cardiagn.com).

    After reading workshop manual it says that the J724 module for the bitdi needs to be calibrated using a special tool VAS 6395/7 bracket and calibration handheld computer VAS 6395. Apparently you've got to fit the bracket and cycle the rod so it touches the bracket and record the voltage, cycle it off the bracket and record the voltage. Do this 3 times and then get a average voltage, add 0.020V - 0.030V to the calculated average and this is what you need to set the new J724 actuator unit to before you fully tighten it into position.

    You can increase the voltage by moving the unit up in the retainer (not fully tightened when setting/calibrating), or decrease it by moving down, but the voltage of the new unit when cycled with VAS6395 must not differ from the average value for the old actuator unit by more than +/- 0.020V otherwise can lead to problems with noise and/or driveability.

    I'm bit confused because you have said your car is fixed and driving perfect and you didn't need to set (calibrate) it?

    Did you get lucky with refitting the unit in the right location?

    I must have just dropped lucky (enough) with the positioning, as the car is running perfectly and returning the same MPG on my regular journeys.
    I'd still be interested in calibrating it properly tho, how are you planning to get yours calibrated?
     
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  8. Re: BiTdi Electronic Turbo Actuator? 
    #18
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    Hi m3compact, glad to hear yours is still running well. Either you got lucky or the manual is wrong.

    I removed the coupling and cycled the actuator with VCDS this afternoon and there is definitely
    Physical damage inside. It stopped moving after trying to move, i’ll upload the video to youtube later.

    I took out one of the 3 actuator mounting bolts and the hole does not look elongated on the retainer, so bit confused by the workshop manual because that suggests you have to move the unit up or down to change the voltage reading and get it within 0.020v of the old unit.

    Ive built everything back up and have started to call around Audi indi’s to find who has the tool with no luck so far.

    I suspect most garages just replace the entire turbo, so thinking about it, i might be better to try a turbo rebuild specialist as they would have the tools to test and rebuild these.

    Im thinking about taking a chance and changing it myself OR taking it down to a indi or turbo specialist for them to change. Which route i take depends on if i can find an indi with the special tools.

    If no one has the special tool (£800) im thinking of marking the bolt positions on the retainer plate and then using vcds to record the voltage of the original unit in upper/middle and lower position and then i have something to compare to when i install the new unit.

    Because you’ve removed and exchanged yours, i don’t know if its possible you can set yours now following the manual procedure as you’ve got nothing to compare the new actuator voltage values too.

    I imagine if driveability and noise is not affected then yours is ok, as these are the symptoms to not being set correctly.


    Quote Originally Posted by M3 Compact View Post
    That's great info' RanjT.

    You've obviously uncovered more info' than I managed to.
    Once mine was fitted and running properly, I just accepted that it was fixed.

    Yours looks more like physically damaged gears; my gears were fine and it was an electrical fault on the unit's board.




    I must have just dropped lucky (enough) with the positioning, as the car is running perfectly and returning the same MPG on my regular journeys.
    I'd still be interested in calibrating it properly tho, how are you planning to get yours calibrated?
     
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  9. Re: BiTdi Electronic Turbo Actuator? 
    #19
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    Update: I took one of the actuator mounting screws out and the holes were round not slotted.

    I removed the one and will be replacing with a new unit. i’m not anticipating having to do any setting of voltage on the new one.

    I opened up my old actuator and the worm gear and teeth on the 1/4 moon cog have worn which is the reason for the jerky motion when activating it using VCDS.

    Quote Originally Posted by RanjT View Post
    Hi m3compact, glad to hear yours is still running well. Either you got lucky or the manual is wrong.

    I removed the coupling and cycled the actuator with VCDS this afternoon and there is definitely
    Physical damage inside. It stopped moving after trying to move, i’ll upload the video to youtube later.

    I took out one of the 3 actuator mounting bolts and the hole does not look elongated on the retainer, so bit confused by the workshop manual because that suggests you have to move the unit up or down to change the voltage reading and get it within 0.020v of the old unit.

    Ive built everything back up and have started to call around Audi indi’s to find who has the tool with no luck so far.

    I suspect most garages just replace the entire turbo, so thinking about it, i might be better to try a turbo rebuild specialist as they would have the tools to test and rebuild these.

    Im thinking about taking a chance and changing it myself OR taking it down to a indi or turbo specialist for them to change. Which route i take depends on if i can find an indi with the special tools.

    If no one has the special tool (£800) im thinking of marking the bolt positions on the retainer plate and then using vcds to record the voltage of the original unit in upper/middle and lower position and then i have something to compare to when i install the new unit.

    Because you’ve removed and exchanged yours, i don’t know if its possible you can set yours now following the manual procedure as you’ve got nothing to compare the new actuator voltage values too.

    I imagine if driveability and noise is not affected then yours is ok, as these are the symptoms to not being set correctly.
     
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  10. Re: BiTdi Electronic Turbo Actuator? 
    #20
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    Good luck RanjT.

    Hope it works as well as mine did; I wasn’t there when it was started for the first time, but the glow plug light went out if its own accord and it drove perfectly from the get go.

    My only regret is that I didn’t ask the main dealer about a replacement, as I’m suspicious that mine was just a cleaned up used one.
     
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