Non start issue Audi A1 2.0 Tdi

[Neil_Taylor]

Hi.. I have a 2013 2.0 tdi Black Edition. following a strange buzzing noise which appeared to be coming from under the dashboard, the car started shuddering, losing power and finally cut out as if out of fuel and now it wont restart.. theres half a tank of diesel in it... i have had it plugged in twice now, first time said excessive egr flow and second time said diagnostic data interface - gateway intermittent signal.. besides this, there are no other fault codes... has anybody else suffered any similar symptoms to these?

[philipharmes]

I think the buzzing noise may well be coming from your EGR ( plastic cogs stripped ) & the EGR now stuck fully open causing a non start.

The other fault "

diagnostic data interface - gateway intermittent signal " might be caused by a low battery voltage after trying to start it continually.

My son had the same with his Tiguan with CFFB engine.

When the breakdown attended they whacked the EGR with a hammer ( not a recommended fix LOL ) but it did dislodge the stuck EGR valve & allow the engine to start.

Then either fit a new EGR or a Simulator.

Has it had the emissions fix ?

[Neil_Taylor]

[QUOTE=philipharmes;1114329]I think the buzzing noise may well be coming from your EGR ( plastic cogs stripped ) & the EGR now stuck fully open causing a non start.

The other fault "

diagnostic data interface - gateway intermittent signal " might be caused by a low battery voltage after trying to start it continually.

My son had the same with his Tiguan with CFFB engine.

When the breakdown attended they whacked the EGR with a hammer ( not a recommended fix LOL ) but it did dislodge the stuck EGR valve & allow the engine to start.

Then either fit a new EGR or a Simulator.

Has it had the emissions fix ?

[/QUOTE

Yes, it has had the emissions fix..

I have removed, cleaned, inspected the Egr valve.. and for good measure, blocked off the egr pipe coming from the head to the inlet manifold, cleared all codes but still not starting

[philipharmes]

If it still won't start, check that the throttle valve ( behind the rad where the air pipe comes up from the intercooler going to the inlet manifold ) isn't stuck shut.

If that is ok you will need to check the fuel pressure.

Have you got VCDS or some other reader which may not give you all the codes being generated.

[Neil_Taylor]

If it still won't start, check that the throttle valve ( behind the rad where the air pipe comes up from the intercooler going to the inlet manifold ) isn't stuck shut.

If that is ok you will need to check the fuel pressure.

Have you got VCDS or some other reader which may not give you all the codes being generated.

I'll check that in the morning, I have only had access to Snap On diagnostic equipment, I dont know anyone with the latest VCDS, I do know that the low pressure in tank pump is working fine as its delivering fuel at a good pressure from the fuel filter to the high pressure pump

[philipharmes]

I don't know which engine you have but all the 2l engines I have had since 2008 have a second electric fuel pump.

It's located to the left of the head ( looking from the front ) in a rubber mounting after the filter.

[Neil_Taylor]

I don't know which engine you have but all the 2l engines I have had since 2008 have a second electric fuel pump.

It's located to the left of the head ( looking from the front ) in a rubber mounting after the filter.

the feed on this one goes straight from the filter to the high pressure pump, nothing in between.. ive checked injector pulse with a noid light and unplugged each injector in turn and its made no difference, throttle valve is open and moves freely and returns to the open position

[philipharmes]

What is the engine code ?

You will need to look at diagnostic live date & make sure the engine is turning over above 275RPM when cranking.

Also fuel rail pressure needs to be above 400 Bar I think ( assuming this is a common rail engine ).

[Neil_Taylor]

What is the engine code ?

You will need to look at diagnostic live date & make sure the engine is turning over above 275RPM when cranking.

Also fuel rail pressure needs to be above 400 Bar I think ( assuming this is a common rail engine ).

fuel rail pressure is good, cranking speed is above required speed, removed injectors and had tested today, all good, performance figures comparable to new ones, i believe only avenue now it timing and compression check