Excess Oil in lower intercooler boost pipe

**conkclo** · 03-10-2019,04:41 PM

First post chaps, so bare with me.

A3 2.0 BKD. Lost all power pulled over to side of road & subsequently found top airbox hose jumped off, then found lower intercooler nearly full of oil, so drained oil & refilled engine sump. Car wont start so has a scan done & showed 3 faults.
Namely- 12295 - camshaft position sensor- G40 - No Signal. 05712 - databus drivetrain message from instrument cluster. 53273 - instrument cluster control module, missing signal oil level / temperature.

So car wont start, cleared codes, still no start, car taken to local garage and he has rescanned car and now there are about 16 codes all electrical related, door locks etc, not any engine malfunction codes.

Did a road side test on the crank & turned the car over several times so engine hasnt seized.

what do i need to do going forward as the guy in the garage is a bit reluctant to touch it with the a6 or so fault codes, im assuming new crank sensor & turbo but why all the error codes & will they go away when the car restarts & full battery voltage ?

Please help only bought the car 3 days ago, drove 120 miles home and then all of the above happened

Any pointers very welcome, & thanks for letting me join the group

**jonathanfenton** · 03-10-2019,04:48 PM

Sounds like you bought a nice little project. Presume you have no warranty if you’ve only had it 3 days and haven’t taken it back. BKDs are renown for killing turbos. Intercooler full of oil definitely sounds like turbo oil seals gone. They always leak a bit, mines leaked from day 1. It blows the inter coolant pipe clips every few years and when ever I change them the pipes have sludgy oil in. Cam position would certainly stop it from running, I’d start like you say with that sensor and take the turbo off and get it reconditioned. Make sure you’ve done the basics and checked all the earths are proper and that you’ve got a full battery, low batteries are what cause a mass of codes when you crank it to the point of it dropping too low.

**conkclo** · 03-10-2019,04:54 PM

thanks jonathon, when trying to start it, it doesnt even attempt to turn over, its just 1 or 2 clicks but sounds like a solenoid not a starter not engaging, car was sold as seen so presume im goosed plus car was driven ok for 120 or so miles. the garage guy is getting an auto electrician out tomorrow. hes wary of doing any work with all the fault codes which were not evident when the car broke down, could these codes just be an ecu scramble from stroking the ignition on & off for a few days hoping it would start ? pretty much at a loss at the moment as i do not have a single code relating to a mechanical issue ?

**jonathanfenton** · 03-10-2019,04:59 PM

I’d be checking all the connections to the battery, starter and alternator for corrosion and tightness. Weird that the starters just clicking with a full battery, id also have meter on battery and see what voltage drops too when you turn key and see if it’s dropping instantly to 10v as that’d cause a load of codes. Do you have a good known battery to try on it?

**Alan02** · 03-10-2019,05:04 PM

Most of the codes will probably be due to battery under-voltage if cranking over so many times. Sounds like your turbo has failed. If it is indeed goosed and you go down the repair route, dont forget to clean out all Intake hoses and also get the Intercooler cleaned and flushed correctly. Renew turbo oil feed/ return pipes also, if you decide to repair.

**conkclo** · 03-10-2019,05:08 PM

car was parked up on side of road until could get it recovered, so put a new12v battery on so i could secure the car, but battery i put on would not be enough that it would cranks it amp wise, charged up the battery overnight & put that back on, this is the battery that was on it when bought it & had done a few cranks on it & started it, so im hoping thats a good battery. The car wont turn over at all, the clicks seem to be from a solenoid or something & not the starter trying to turn the car over. Im at a loss on how all these electrical faults have developed when the car hasnt moved or been started since it blew the turbo & crank sensor went faulty. An ecu reset is as simple as disconnecting the battery for a few hours & letting any stored power dissapate ive read, is that right ?

**conkclo** · 03-10-2019,05:18 PM

car never cranked, it would not turn over, maybe this is due to the crank sensor, only several clicking noises and they were not from the starter turning, yes good battery, and charged it over night 13.9v on a 680Ah exide

**jonathanfenton** · 03-10-2019,05:18 PM

Battery leads off and touch em together to dissipate any residual voltage is what I normally do to reset things.

**conkclo** · 03-10-2019,05:22 PM

I take it that its ok to leave these battery connections off over night & let all the power drain from the circuits, the car is at the garage at the moment

**jonathanfenton** · 03-10-2019,05:24 PM

They can run a little weird when you first start them up from completely dead as throttle bodys and things have to set them selves up again but normally should be fine.