Oil Leak On Passat 2008 2ltr TDI Engine Code BKP - any suggestions?

[cssvwpassat08]

I own a VW Passat 2008, 84k miles. It has been lovingly looked after (new everything as soon as it needs replacing, I don't mess about). MOT passes at main dealer since 2014. Then yesterday, DISASTER. I noticed a very thin line of oil on the drive. Jacked the car up, took the belly shield off, and saw a tiny leak between - well, I'd tell you but oddly the engine diagrams online don't got that far down the engine block (not very helpful!). The leak is tiny, but a leak is a leak, and they only get worse....

It's viewable here though for review and comment: https://www.pinterest.co.uk/chrisstaddon/vw-passat-leak/ . Can anyone can tell me exactly where this leak is in relation to the engine/block etc (given this part of the engine doesn't show up on any diagram) ?

If possible, please can you also give me tyour opinions as to whether this is likely to be a simply fix (ie Redex Oil Stop Leak) - or because of where it is, could it be a horror story? I will be gutted if it is as it's immaculate. I'm taking the car to a garage tomorrow - but don't want to be talked into a complete engine refurb or buy a replacement engine if this is a very simple fix. And who better to check with, than with fellow Passat owners ...

[DMitch16]

Too little to go on. If the car is as immaculately looked after as you say, why are you even mentioning evil temporary repair solutions such as Oil Stop Leak? Here's another one, Radweld. There is only one way to fix this and that is locate the source of the leak and replace whatever seal or part if not a seal that the leak is eminating from. It is above the sump seal that is clear but where on the engine is this? If rear of the sump then this could be a few things.

1. Cam (Rocker) cover
2. Tandem pump gasket (leaks normally go down to the block lip then rearward and can end up dripping down the centre of the rear of the engine)
3. Turbo seals, turbo oil feed pipe or banjo bolt if present
4. Head gasket (unlikely but possible)
5. Oil filter housing (if leak is front of engine)
6. Inlet manifold (especially) if fitted with swirl flaps

There's a few other causes but careful inspection and identification of the source is the first task. The garage should do a visual location of the leak source first.

[cssvwpassat08]

Thank you, I have just got back under the car and I finally got to the bottom of it. There is no oil leaking above the sump, it's seeping out of the sump seal. There doesn't seem to be any problem at all with the oil sump pan itself (ENAC-43400). I double checked online and now I can diagram it, it's definitely that. Moreover, it's a ten minute DIY job. All I need is a replacement gasket. Simples!

[dekhelia]

With respect, I wouldn't say it's a 10-minute job. There'll be a fair bit of cleaning to do, not to mention getting out the 3 bolts that are hiding in the bellhousing - don't forget these! Then when you're done, it's important to use the correct sealant, the white-coloured Dicko stuff which is VW OEM. There is no gasket apart from the sealant, as far as I'm aware. Obviously you will have to drain the oil ... meaning new oil and ideally a new filter.

You'll be at it at least an hour. More, if you're working on the drive.

[DMitch16]

Thank you, I have just got back under the car and I finally got to the bottom of it. There is no oil leaking above the sump, it's seeping out of the sump seal. There doesn't seem to be any problem at all with the oil sump pan itself (ENAC-43400). I double checked online and now I can diagram it, it's definitely that. Moreover, it's a ten minute DIY job. All I need is a replacement gasket. Simples!

Good you've found the source of the leak but as dekhelia said, there is no preformed gasket for these engines and the stuff you need is Elring Dirko HT red or grey, I prefer the grey but either will do. Around a tenner on ebay.

Make sure the sump and block surfaces are clean and make the 2mm bead carefully around the centre of the sump edge and on the inside edge of the bolt holes. If doing it yourself make sure you dry test fit first as the sump has to be angled in at first slightly then levelled and gently offered up the rest of the way. It then has to be held without moving to prevent smearing and a few bolts screwed in fully hand tight before you let go. You have around 8 to 10 minutes to get it on after you start to apply the sealant.