2008 2.0 tdi 170 cranks but won't start

[Kyle_471]

Thanks for the replies guys.

I'll whip the starter out and check it over.

I'll be back in a couple of days when I've had chance to do it and let you know 👍

[Kyle_471]

Afternoon guys,
So I pulled the starter and the brushes were knackered. Replaced those for £15 and it's like new 👍

Car cranks beautifully but wouldn't start.

From looking through this forum I saw alot of issues with injector seals so I got new ones for £35 and fit them.

The car now starts but doesn't sound great, still idles at 1200rpm and sounds like it's misfiring.
Did a readout with OBDeleven and injector 2 and 3 has implausible signal. I was so careful with the loom but I know they're really brittle as they're sat in hot oil.
As the loom is the only wiring to the injector I've touched it must be that so I'll have to buy a new one and replace it.

Anyone know how much it will be and Where's bets to buy it?

Cheers

[DMitch16]

Darkside Developments do them £110 + vat + delivery

Genuine VW Injector Wiring Loom for VW 2.0 16v TDI PD Engines - 03G 971 033 L

Some genuine on ebay for less so slightly cheaper if you have a search for the 03G 971 033 L part number.

[Kyle_471]

Darkside Developments do them £110 + vat + delivery

Genuine VW Injector Wiring Loom for VW 2.0 16v TDI PD Engines - 03G 971 033 L

Some genuine on ebay for £114.99 so slightly cheaper.

Ouch. Cheers Mitch I'll have a check over this one see if it's a loose connection and failing that I'll order one. Any special tools required for fitting it through the head?

[DMitch16]

Yep a special 3 pronged socket but a 3 to 4 foot piece of rope or parachute cord can be a good substitute to make a 'rope coil socket'. The loom connector is in 3 parts, outer ring that holds the pin connector in place with red plastic locking 'pin', inner collar that needs the special tool, then the loom connector itself that fits through the cam bearing frame hole retained with a metal 'U' clip on the inside wall.

[Kyle_471]

OK mate thanks for that. Fingers crossed I've just not plugged it in right and I won't need to do it.

[DMitch16]

OK mate thanks for that. Fingers crossed I've just not plugged it in right and I won't need to do it.

I've a great engine workshop manual in PDF if you want it - PM me your email address and I'll send it over.

[Kyle_471]

I've a great engine workshop manual in PDF if you want it - PM me your email address and I'll send it over.

Awesome! Will do.

I've just been out before it got too dark, pulled the connector off 2 and 3. Checked the wires which look good from what I can see and I've cleaned the connections before putting back.

Cleared the codes and started the car which took a while.. The codes haven't returned but it still sounds shocking and seems like its misfiring.

[DMitch16]

Awesome! Will do.

I've just been out before it got too dark, pulled the connector off 2 and 3. Checked the wires which look good from what I can see and I've cleaned the connections before putting back.

Cleared the codes and started the car which took a while.. The codes haven't returned but it still sounds shocking and seems like its misfiring.

Have you checked the loom behind the cam cover as it occasionally drops onto the turbo heat shield and melts causing shorts and weird running / unrelated fault codes.

[DMitch16]

Also I clean my EGR Valve, Anti Shudder Valve unit ('throttle body' to use its incorrect terminology on a diesel) and intake manifold every 50k as they do gunk up with a soot paste over time. Mine has the original factory fitted intake parts which are still good at 215k - the regular clean seems to extend their life and keeps them freely moving. Diesel filter change every 10k as they are easy to do and the parts cheap (I buy several at a time when on offer).