Could a CV replacement cause bearing failure??

[FrenchAudi]

Even with a little heat on the housing?

[Crasher]

Even with my full on hot spanner set using a seven hole multi point burner at full **** the ally hub carrier just sucks the heat up and sinks it away and you cannot easily tell when you have altered ally as it does not change colour. Get it too hot and it cracks when you re-assemble, this is the same car after the upper arm bolt would not come out, some heat and it did but putting it back together it felt odd and would not torque to spec, to the lower left you can see the tool we bought that is supposed to let you beat the **** out of these wheel bearings to get them out, it does not work even with a 6lb twating stick

[FrenchAudi]

I guess that's no then?

Maybe the OP can find a good hub carrier complete with bearing and hub from a breaker.

[aerotec]

Wow!

My friends husband has a bearing press so helped fix the problem. We discovered the bearing mount had 2 bolts missing, 1 sheared and the last one wasn't fully tightened up! Unbelievable as the car came with a "fresh MOT"!

The play in the wheel was caused by the loose bearing bracket. Replaced the bearing assembly and all is good again. Not done a high speed test yet but hoping the motorway speed vibration is sorted too.

That was a nasty accident waiting to happen.

Thanks for all comments on this post.

Richard

[Crasher]

I can see the point in aluminium but Audi should have built these legs up with some thought to electrolytic corrosion, if a grease monkey could see this coming it is unforgivable that the designers and production engineers didn’t shout up and say something. Why make a wheel bearing easy to replace in theory but in practice make it impossible to remove when the car gets to the age of needing it, a slither of ally paste was all that it needed during build, stupid!

[FrenchAudi]

When fixing stainless steel to aluminium on boats, e.g. for screws into aluminum masts, I have always given the screw threads a light coating of zinc chromate paste.

I have easily removed screws fitted in this way even after several years. I'm pretty sure it will work equally well between steel and aluminium.

[Crasher]

Yes it will, an excellent product BUT highly toxic, a Carcinogen and illegal to use on motor vehicles. When working with Titanium threads I like to use Nickel grease but again, nasty stuff.

[FrenchAudi]

Oh dear. I'll have to look after the tin of it that I have. All the good stuff seems to be bad nowadays

I've never tasted it nor even got it on my hands - no need to really, and on screw threads it's not even exposed.

How about white lead?

[Crasher]

It is like the 30 year old gallon (remember those) tin of Nitromors I was given a while back, the modern stuff is so mild you can clean your hands with it, that old stuff eats through expensive nitrile gloves in seconds and if a tiny spot hits flesh

White lead, you are joking aren’t you? Even its fumes are toxic!

[FrenchAudi]

I'm not sure about fumes from white lead, although fumes from heating lead, as with zinc, can be toxic.

I'd better keep it in a safe place, together with my zinc chromate, asbestos tape, trichloroethylene, Roundup, solvent based paint, etc.


Back on the subject of aluminium bearing carriers, would it not be easier and better to heat them in an oven or with an induction heater heater when installing or removing the bearings?
After fitting, the bearing itself would probably fairly quickly become hot enough to fit the hub more easily.

I always heat bearings before fitting them onto shafts, where possible. They usually just drop onto the shaft if it can be held vertical, and seat against the shoulder. I get them hot enough to where I need to wear welding gloves to handle them.

I don't have an induction bearing heater any longer, so use a large soldering iron through the inner race.