Setting up EPB (Electronic Parking Break)

[DieselMonster]

Just to give you a quick background of what took place prior to the recent events. Few months ago I had the EPB issue and it got worse until one motor stopped working and the left side motor would take a while to take off the handbrake. Finally it ended up getting worse causing multiple attempts using the parking brake button for the hand brake to be off. From there on there was always the fear of the caliper staying stuck on causing the car to become immobile and so by accident having lent the car to a family member the handbrake was used and it refused to be removed and had a mechanic remove it manually by removing the motor and winding the torx screw. After that I drove the car a few more months with only one motor and the constant beeping, I would have to leave the car in 1st gear as a temporary replacement for my handbrake.

I then got myself a pair of new calipers, motors, rear discs and pads. I removed the old calipers and placed new set of calipers, motors and pads. After that I had to cut off the connections of each hand brake motor as the connection clips were damaged and I got another pair and tied the copper wires together wrapped in electrical tape. I hooked up VCDS and checked for faults which are listed below:

Address 53: Parking Brake Labels: 3C0-907-801-53.clb
Part No SW: 3C0 907 801 B HW: 3C0 907 801 B
Component: EPB VC8HC001 013 0001
Revision: 013
Coding: 0000011
Shop #: WSC 00028 210 01865
VCID: 211F19BD0DCBC9DF5E9-8074


2 Faults Found:

02428 - Left Parking Brake Motor (V282) Clamping Force Not Reached
002 - Lower Limit Exceeded
Freeze Frame:
Fault Status: 01100010
Fault Priority: 6
Fault Frequency: 5
Reset counter: 49
Mileage: 256976 km
Time Indication: 0
Date: 2000.00.00
Time: 00:15:48
Freeze Frame:
Voltage: 6.52 V
Count: 204


02434 - Supply Voltage for Control Module for Left Channel
009 - Open or Short to Ground - MIL ON
Freeze Frame:
Fault Status: 11101001
Fault Priority: 1
Fault Frequency: 8
Reset counter: 49
Time Indication: 0
Freeze Frame:
Voltage: 11.59 V
Count: 112

I hooked up a battery charger when using VCDS and I tried to go through basic settings and it would refuse to turn on. I then tried to do a function test and nothing happened. lastly I changed the parking brake button and that caused one side of the motors to work when I pressed the button and then it stopped working too. I only used the EPB with the engine on as per Ross Tech's advice. Now the left side connection looking at the faults above make it clear that there may be a wiring issue. With the left side the original wiring was completely oxidised and turned pure black. Although wires can conduct electricity when they have turned black in extreme cases they cannot. I will be changing the wire completely but I am hoping I just have to cut of the original wire at a further length until I see copper as routing a new EPB wire may be too time consuming. Additionally I will be changing the EPB button and checking fuses.

Does anyone know what the EPB wire part number is?

Does anyone know where the epb fuses are located 2008- model Passat B6 are different then what my Haynes manual mentions. It mentions there are two 20A fuses at drivers side 22 and 24 position. My car has no fuses there are all.

If the parking brake control module is faulty, I am aware of some of the basic things such as those mentioned on Ross Tech wiki but how do you code the new/pre owned module? I'm aware you need to find out what the code is for the specific module as they are all different but once the new module is plugged in, where do I go on VCDS to code it in? Additionally what is the newest module I can have? My existing parking brake module is

3C0 907 801 B.

Does anyone else have any additional advice on troubleshooting this issue? the control module is most likely not happy with having one motor connected for several months and then having two motors attached as it may still think one motor is attached. I will replace the left side wires, epb button and check the fuses and go on from there.

[philipharmes]

" I got another pair and tied the copper wires together wrapped in electrical tape "

Look at the fault codes logged.
Near the bottom it shows a voltage, one is 6.52 the other 11.59 which indicate either a wiring, motor or controller fault.

Are you sure you have connected the wires the correct way around & they are not shorting out.
These are DC motors so will rotate in the opposite direction if wired incorrectly.

Suggest you remove the motors & check the direction of rotation when you activate the parking brake.
Obviously they should wind in a direction to clamp the pads to the disc.

With the motors removed the parking brake module will be able to tell that things are not correct, so I think it will then reverse the motor for a short time before it turns off, because the controller will never see the increase in current it expects from a clamped disc while you have them removed.
You just need to make sure the initial direction of rotation is correct.

When you re-install the motors, firstly wind the caliper parking brake rod torx head by hand so the pads clamp the disc, then turn back 1.5 turns so the disc is free.

When you have everything working correctly I would solder the wire joints or use screw connector block then wrap in self amalgamating tape.

[DieselMonster]

I did a resistance and continuity test on the wires today. I have pictures below of the figures I got. Amazon sell wires up to 300mm so I planned on fitting that to the left side but when I cut the insolation even at about 280mm length, to see if it turns into clean gold copper from the black corroded look it has it was still black. I called up VW and they said they only sell the wire with the motor. I will remove the motor and test it to see if it is turning the correct direction but you haven't mentioned which direction that is? id imagine clockwise is close position and the opposite is open position. I don't think I will be able to use the motors even if detached as the epb button doesn't work, ive ordered a new one and a brake piston tool should I need to rotate it.

I have also attached a picture of the pads and disc, they are already squeezing the disc and this is with the hand brake off. both rear wheels do rotate but there is some rubbing of pads and disc.

with the wires that I cut off, on the original wires to the connection, the plug has a number below each wire as seen in the picture. I got a plug with wires already attached and I stuck them on the same number the original was on. so if the red wire was on 2, then with the new socket, I would attach red to 2.

VW Passat B6

[philipharmes]

The black wire is down to poor quality copper, another cost saving I would guess.
If you scrape it with a knife you should get back to copper but probably easier to use a screw block connection, the screw will cut through the corrossion & should make a good connection. ( Wilko's sell the clear plastic screw block connectors )
If you need to add wire make sure the copper it is at least as thick as the original wiring.

Sounds like you have the wires the correct way around if you followed the numbers & colours of the wires.

I can't remember which way the motors turn, just turn the drive rod one way until it clamps the disc hard, then you will know.

You don't need a wind back tool but do have to turn the rod that the motor turns, this is a long thread inside the caliper & pushes the piston to apply the pads to the disc, or allows the pads to return when wound the opposite way.

Looking at your meter readings, one seems to show a resistance of 1 ohm which I would think was about right.
The other shows 0.2 ohm which would indicate to me some sort of partial short circuit in the motor.
That one may well be toast.

Double check the resistances as a poor connection with your test leads will give missleading results.

Connect the motors direct to a 12v battery ( won't make any difference which way around you connect them ) & see if they turn ok.

If they do turn ok measure the current they take, set your meter to it's highest amp range, the motors will initially draw 10 plus amps then drop back to a few amps if ok.

Best of luck.

[DieselMonster]

The numbers match but not the colours, I swapped the colours around so they match and then I ran through vcds and nothing happened.

The motor turns clockwise and it locked, I turned my spare caliper anti clockwise and the motor popped off the thread. Funny thing is on my new caliper after I removed the motor, I turned it clockwise all day long and it didn't lock, just kept spinning! I didn't do it anti clockwise as that's a bad idea.

I got the motor and did an amp test, I have pictures of my multimeter settings and how I hooked it all up as I didn't know what why to go about it. I connected red wire to red terminal of battery and the other end into the red port of the multimeter. Black went from the COM port to one pin of the motor and a wire from the battery to the second pin. Motor spun both directions and the meter reading was 00.15 amp.

The 00.02 ohm reading you saw was a continuity test, when it works it makes an audible sound which was triggered. I always do multimeter tests multiple times to get a correct reading.

I have pictures of my current wiring, old caliper disassembled and how both old connectors had number 2 wire as earth.

I put the old wire ends that are rusted into vinegar mixed with salt and then water mixed with sodium bicarbonate. It turned it shiny gold.

What I need to know is shall I connect via numbers or colour. I will do a multimeter read with the wires swapped to see if there is any significance.

Personally I think the control module is toast. I will get the epb button on Monday and if it still doesn't work I'm off to buy a parking brake control module. I just need help on how to code it.

VW Passat B6

Edit: quick update switch arrived and it's anti clockwise to push piston out which is what you want. Screw thread of piston is now a full turn and 180° from having pads lock onto the disc. I'm getting a fourth code of left caliper wiring being open circuit even when I swapped wires back to how they were. It may be due to the exposed wires not being wrapped, they have just been twisted together. Switch and having piston thread at correct length has made no difference. I guess my only guess left is the parking brake control module.

[philipharmes]

It sounds like you have tested the motors out ok.
So that only leaves the wiring & J540 controller module which is located in the centre console between the 2 front seats.

Agree it sounds like the controller is toast at least on one side.
So once you have access to this module you can test the wires to the motors & get them connected the correct way around.
It sounds like the thread on your new caliper isn't threaded into the nut that pushes the piston.
It should eventually lock turned one way or the other, as long as it has a disc to clamp on to.

The procedure to code the new parking brake module is on Ross-Tech VW Passat (3C) Parking Brake - Ross-Tech Wiki

I had to change mine about 3 years ago due to a software fault in the module.

Your's will almost certainly be the output semiconductor/ s burnt out.
If you know someone handy with a soldering iron they can be changed for just a few pounds, & you wouldn't then have to go through the coding procedure as the module would remain the same.

[DieselMonster]

i dont understand the procedure mentioned by ross tech above, its not clear at all. below is the sequence, I start off with coding J104 by clicking the blue writing and it just takes me to the top of the page. I googled it and all I get is ABS info. I have taken a pic of both parking brake module and abs codes prior to installing new code. old faults have cleared but new ones have arrived due to it not being coded. the module is the exact same number so there isn't any issues. sadly even with exact same replacement I have to code everything again. I went into the abs controller and checked what coding it had, it was exact same as prior to changing the module. yet everyone says the coding gets lost after you change the module? when I try to code I get conditions not met, request sequence error.

After Replacing this Control Module these Steps have to be performed in the following Order:

• Code Brake Electronics (J104) Control Module
• Basic Setting for Steering Angle Sensor (G85)
• Basic Setting for Lateral Acceleration Sensor (G200)
• Basic Setting for Brake Pressure Sensor 1 (G201)
• Basic Setting for Yaw Rate Sensor (G202)
• Basic Setting for Longitudinal Acceleration Sensor (G251)
• Code Parking Brake Electronics (J540) Control Module
• Perform Parking Brake Function Test

update, i managed to get into j104, then I started on G85 by inputing the security access code and it was accepted. i'll keep you posted

after doing steering wheel angle sensor and then steering wheel limit adaption the yellow steering wheel reappears. even without doing the steering wheel limit adaption, as soon as I exit the screen it comes back again. I'm stuck, I cant move to the next stage till this is correct. I have followed the instructions to the letter but nothing happens....

[niall campbell]

VW Passat 3B6 2.0 Genuine Intermotor Rear ABS Wheel Speed Brake Sensor | eBay I had to go to Audi and spend £80 in getting the harness that connects to the EPB on the offside

Anyway, it went in behind the rear wheel arch and attached it by wiring up the four wires, 2 for the ABS and 2 for the EPB

I did not have to do anything else

it was so simple, but some of the clips for the wiring were really hard to put back on

[niall campbell]

by the way, Audi actually have 4 wiring connectors for the 4 wires, rather than a multiplug connection


it just seems strange that its that way

[DieselMonster]

ive managed to code the abs, it accepted the code and abs light has gone off as well as hand brake light (still have the P with the yellow cross as job isn't done yet!) I'm still stuck on the basic settings of the steering wheel. the steering wheel angle sensor says its okay but then goes back to I cant get rid of this fault.

1 Fault Found:
00778 - Steering Angle Sensor (G85)
005 - No or Incorrect Basic Setting / Adaptation

it would be a shamed to pay a diagnostic guy £100+ to sort this out when it can be done. shame lot of people did this but never made a write up on these forums or blogs.

quick edit, ive gone through all the stages but the last stage of coding the epb. it doesn't accept the old code nor the one it has stored. by default it is selected on the epb with auto hold even though I don't have that feature. ive put 0000011 and the old and new numbers for workshop and the third code but nothing works. do I need the security code first?