Fault codes p0322 and p0321 engine idle high, cutting out Eml light and epc light on

[rhencullen1989]

Hi, my 1.8T cab cut out on me a couple of days ago, the epc light came on, i restarted the engine, took a little longer than normal and I noticed it was ticking over at about 1200 revs, it's usually 900 or so. Then the Eml light illuminated. I drove to work and the epc light went out, but the Eml stayed on. When I left work all was ok again.

i got the above codes which are pointing to a crankshaft speed sensor, I have priced one up from TPS at just over £101.

Do I just get one and fit it, or as it seems ok at the moment, perhaps it was just one of those annoying glitches. It seems ok at the moment, could it just need a clean, as I would have thought it's either working or it's not.

[arman123]

Yep just get one and fit it check old sensor wiring for breaks and also check if the old sensor is not loose

DIY: B6 A4 1.8T - Engine Speed Sensor (G28) Replacement

[calum]

Hi, my 1.8T cab cut out on me a couple of days ago, the epc light came on, i restarted the engine, took a little longer than normal and I noticed it was ticking over at about 1200 revs, it's usually 900 or so. Then the Eml light illuminated. I drove to work and the epc light went out, but the Eml stayed on. When I left work all was ok again.

i got the above codes which are pointing to a crankshaft speed sensor, I have priced one up from TPS at just over £101.

Do I just get one and fit it, or as it seems ok at the moment, perhaps it was just one of those annoying glitches. It seems ok at the moment, could it just need a clean, as I would have thought it's either working or it's not.

You can buy a generic one from eBay for less than £20, with a two year warranty, if you want to buy genuine that's fine but it really is the most simplistic sensor there is.

Sent from my ANE-LX1 using Tapatalk

[rhencullen1989]

Ok, I bought a genuine one before I read your post......at least I saved on labour costs by doing it myself!

A fairly simple job to do, place the coolant tank out of the way without disconnecting, apart from the wire connector on the bottom, the sensor is kind of behind and above the oil filter, you will be better off with a torch and a mirror, it's held in place by one 10mm A/F bolt, try not to drop it as it comes out.

Its quite difficult to get any sort of leverage on the old sensor to pull it out, so I used some pliers on the body and twisted and pulled at the same time, the wire takes quite a crazy path, I just cut the wire near the connector after pulling the connector apart, it's the greyish coloured one, either pull the old wires through or cut both ends and leave it.

The new one comes with a better heat shield wrap, i put some grease on the o ring and bolted it back onto the block, don't cross thread the bolt!I just gave it a new neat route and cable tied it in a couple of places, push the connector back on and push it into its little home, connect the coolant tank wire and put that back in. Finally clear any codes that your bad sensor brought up. Jobs a good un!