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Thread: On Yer Back Gearbox Removal.. A Guide..

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  1. On Yer Back Gearbox Removal.. A Guide.. 
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    Wrote this on UKP ages ago, figured I would share it here for anybody thatís heading down this path...

    I keep finding situations where this could shed some light for folk doing this the hard way like I do... lol



    This is from memory and from a B5.5 Passat 5 speed AWX/FHN-GGB but should mostly be there, Others may do thing differently but this is the method I have used with the equipment I have available, Served me four times so can complain haha.

    1. Battery off, remove engine covers and undertray, car on decent axle stands as high as you can get it..

    2. Remove bridge intake pipe from across the back of the engine, be sure to unclip all sensors and vacuum lines, its tricky to get out but if you drop it down by passenger side driveshaft you should be able to manipulate it out from the top. secured by EGR pipe, Pipe from intercooler and 1x M6 bolt next to coolant tank/fuel filter. Also helps to remove airbox.

    3. Remove three screws from coolant tank and swing it forward out of the way, makes things easier...

    4. Looking down by passenger driveshaft hub, Tranny end, You will see speed sender wiring and reverse sensor conector along with slave cylinder. Remove both connectors by releasing the small spring clip.

    5. Undo M8 Allen bolt (6mm allen key) holding in slave cylinder and remove the slave by pulling backwards and twisting it out towards passenger side, Swing it out of the way for now. Personally, I don't disconnect the hydraulics, Not nice having it dripping when your gonna spend the next three hours underneath the car.

    6. Remove RHS driveshaft hub shield (secured with Three M8 Cap head bolts) An absolute PITA to reach, I use two long 3/8" drive extensions

    7. Remove 12x M8 Driveshaft flange bolts. These require a 12point spline bit, Use a decent one, you do not want to strip these out... Once removes, tap the driveshaft hub flanges free (doesn't take much) and swing them out of the way.

    8. Underneath the car, at the rear top of the gearbox on Drivers side, there are two linkages. One has an M6 Bolt (selector shaft) and one has a round bushing with an M8 Cap-head Bolt in the centre. The latter is a PITA to get out, you need ideally a stubby 6mm allen bit and a ratchet spanner as there is very limited space between the bolt head and the side of the tunnel. Remove both of these bolts and pull the selector rod off the shaft.

    9. Starting from the top of the gearbox under the bonnet, From passenger to drivers side... Undo the bolts holding the bell housing onto the block. Remember where these come out as they are all different sizes! You will need 16mm, 18mm, 19mm spanners and sockets. A flexi head ratchet works wonders at the back of the block. But be careful not to yank on any hoses or wiring looms. there's a lot back there. There should be four bolts from left to right. One is under the injector harness, one is just to the drivers side of the tandem pump. These both have cable brakets on and can be a bit fiddly.

    10. Underneath, there are another two bolts on the drivers side holding starter motor on, one of these has a nut on the back, lower one iirc undo them both but leave the one with the nut in with the nut loose. (prevents you dropping gearbox later when you start pulling it off.

    11. There are four bolts directly above the sub-frame which are 16mm head and are a pain to get to, I found with a combination spanner I can get them just from the front side of the sub-frame... the far left one has a nut on the back... there is also another bolt just up on the LHS ( I'm sure you will see all these when you are looking at it)

    12. Once they are all removed, ratchet strap the exhaust over to drivers side of the car ( there's a hole somewhere near the sill you can hook the end of a strap into, I have never had any issues doing it like this.)

    13. Get a jack setup underneath the gearbox, i've found that the C.O.G. of the FHN/GGB 5 speed boxes is pretty much on the seam in line with the mounts. Undo the bottom nuts of the gearbox mounts and take up the weight of the box enough that the mounts lift slightly..

    14. Undo the M10 bolts holding the mount brackets onto the side of the box... I had my mate help here, though as long as your using a decent jack and have secured it properly, box should be held in the middle by tunnel...

    15. Once removed, the box can be slid back into the tunnel and off the engine, can be a bit of a pain but not overly difficult. I did find that my snub mount is a bit soft which allowed the engine to tilt backwards, I remedied this by wedging a piece of wood between the subframe and the block, worked wonders.

    Putting it back is the reverse of the above (captain obvious strikes again), make double sure you don't catch and hoses or cables... its ridiculously hard to see the top of the bell-housing, I thought I had gearbox on last time I had it off but it wouldn't sit flush, turned out I had trapped starter cable in between the B/H and the block.... glad I disconnected battery... haha.. If you remove flywheel make sure you replace the bolts, they are very very tight and need a decent M12 12point bit. Probably worth doing crankseal as well...

    That's about it from memory.... Feel free to PM or whatever if you get stuck. Sure you'll be fine though.

    Clutch is 6 bolts holding on pressure plate, Flywheel has 6x M12 fine bolts which are 12point spline... They are tight, I made a steel bar to hold flywheel with to get them undone, I'm sure you can find a way to wedge it, just try not to damage engine casings... IIRC Pressure plate bolts are 25nm and Flywheel bolts are 65nm + 90deg but don't quote me, ill confirm this later if needs be but my book of torques is in the car hahaha.

    Hope this helps? If you have one, Haynes manual is an asset...

    Aidan




    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


    54 Passat Wagon PD175
    99í Audi S4 Avant 2.7 QTO
     
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  2. Red face Re: On Yer Back Gearbox Removal.. A Guide.. 
    #2
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    Quote Originally Posted by MiniMental View Post
    Wrote this on UKP ages ago, figured I would share it here for anybody thatís heading down this path...

    I keep finding situations where this could shed some light for folk doing this the hard way like I do... lol



    This is from memory and from a B5.5 Passat 5 speed AWX/FHN-GGB but should mostly be there, Others may do thing differently but this is the method I have used with the equipment I have available, Served me four times so can complain haha.

    1. Battery off, remove engine covers and undertray, car on decent axle stands as high as you can get it..

    2. Remove bridge intake pipe from across the back of the engine, be sure to unclip all sensors and vacuum lines, its tricky to get out but if you drop it down by passenger side driveshaft you should be able to manipulate it out from the top. secured by EGR pipe, Pipe from intercooler and 1x M6 bolt next to coolant tank/fuel filter. Also helps to remove airbox.

    3. Remove three screws from coolant tank and swing it forward out of the way, makes things easier...

    4. Looking down by passenger driveshaft hub, Tranny end, You will see speed sender wiring and reverse sensor conector along with slave cylinder. Remove both connectors by releasing the small spring clip.

    5. Undo M8 Allen bolt (6mm allen key) holding in slave cylinder and remove the slave by pulling backwards and twisting it out towards passenger side, Swing it out of the way for now. Personally, I don't disconnect the hydraulics, Not nice having it dripping when your gonna spend the next three hours underneath the car.

    6. Remove RHS driveshaft hub shield (secured with Three M8 Cap head bolts) An absolute PITA to reach, I use two long 3/8" drive extensions

    7. Remove 12x M8 Driveshaft flange bolts. These require a 12point spline bit, Use a decent one, you do not want to strip these out... Once removes, tap the driveshaft hub flanges free (doesn't take much) and swing them out of the way.

    8. Underneath the car, at the rear top of the gearbox on Drivers side, there are two linkages. One has an M6 Bolt (selector shaft) and one has a round bushing with an M8 Cap-head Bolt in the centre. The latter is a PITA to get out, you need ideally a stubby 6mm allen bit and a ratchet spanner as there is very limited space between the bolt head and the side of the tunnel. Remove both of these bolts and pull the selector rod off the shaft.

    9. Starting from the top of the gearbox under the bonnet, From passenger to drivers side... Undo the bolts holding the bell housing onto the block. Remember where these come out as they are all different sizes! You will need 16mm, 18mm, 19mm spanners and sockets. A flexi head ratchet works wonders at the back of the block. But be careful not to yank on any hoses or wiring looms. there's a lot back there. There should be four bolts from left to right. One is under the injector harness, one is just to the drivers side of the tandem pump. These both have cable brakets on and can be a bit fiddly.

    10. Underneath, there are another two bolts on the drivers side holding starter motor on, one of these has a nut on the back, lower one iirc undo them both but leave the one with the nut in with the nut loose. (prevents you dropping gearbox later when you start pulling it off.

    11. There are four bolts directly above the sub-frame which are 16mm head and are a pain to get to, I found with a combination spanner I can get them just from the front side of the sub-frame... the far left one has a nut on the back... there is also another bolt just up on the LHS ( I'm sure you will see all these when you are looking at it)

    12. Once they are all removed, ratchet strap the exhaust over to drivers side of the car ( there's a hole somewhere near the sill you can hook the end of a strap into, I have never had any issues doing it like this.)

    13. Get a jack setup underneath the gearbox, i've found that the C.O.G. of the FHN/GGB 5 speed boxes is pretty much on the seam in line with the mounts. Undo the bottom nuts of the gearbox mounts and take up the weight of the box enough that the mounts lift slightly..

    14. Undo the M10 bolts holding the mount brackets onto the side of the box... I had my mate help here, though as long as your using a decent jack and have secured it properly, box should be held in the middle by tunnel...

    15. Once removed, the box can be slid back into the tunnel and off the engine, can be a bit of a pain but not overly difficult. I did find that my snub mount is a bit soft which allowed the engine to tilt backwards, I remedied this by wedging a piece of wood between the subframe and the block, worked wonders.

    Putting it back is the reverse of the above (captain obvious strikes again), make double sure you don't catch and hoses or cables... its ridiculously hard to see the top of the bell-housing, I thought I had gearbox on last time I had it off but it wouldn't sit flush, turned out I had trapped starter cable in between the B/H and the block.... glad I disconnected battery... haha.. If you remove flywheel make sure you replace the bolts, they are very very tight and need a decent M12 12point bit. Probably worth doing crankseal as well...

    That's about it from memory.... Feel free to PM or whatever if you get stuck. Sure you'll be fine though.

    Clutch is 6 bolts holding on pressure plate, Flywheel has 6x M12 fine bolts which are 12point spline... They are tight, I made a steel bar to hold flywheel with to get them undone, I'm sure you can find a way to wedge it, just try not to damage engine casings... IIRC Pressure plate bolts are 25nm and Flywheel bolts are 65nm + 90deg but don't quote me, ill confirm this later if needs be but my book of torques is in the car hahaha.

    Hope this helps? If you have one, Haynes manual is an asset...

    Aidan




    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk



    54 Passat Wagon PD175
    99í Audi S4 Avant 2.7 QTO
    Thanks for the great wite up helped me no end!

    Just a couple of things that i did that may help others out, I didn't have a ratchet strap to pull the exhaust over but I used the cars jack between the side of the tunnel & the exhaust and just wound it up until exhaust was over enough

    Also something I do each time i replace a clutch is before i put gearbox back in I have 2 x 120mm length bolts & nuts of same thread size as the bellhousing bolts that i bought from local DIY/hardware shop. i used a hacksaw to chop off the hex head then filed top smooth took off sharp edges, I then cut a screwdriver slot accross the top of the bolt where the head was, I then wind these into oposite sides of engine block.

    When I then lift the gearbox up on the jack it is simple to line the long bolts up with the holes on the bell housing and you can then slide the gearbox down the studs onto the engine, which lines up the bolt holes and the input shaft perfectly, and once gearbox is up against the engine wind the nuts down the threaded studs to hold gearbox in place while you put the other bellhousing bolts in, once these are tightened up you can use a flat bladed screwdriver to remove the studs and screw in the last 2 original bolts

    Hope these help others
     
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  3. Re: On Yer Back Gearbox Removal.. A Guide.. 
    #3
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    Hi guys, great write up and advice.
    I followed it closely but seem to have done something while refitting the transmission that’s caused it to become stuck.
    My car is a 2003 b5 Passat tdi, I had fitted the new dmf flywheel, friction disc and pressure plate, got the transmission located onto the guide bolts that I had fitted but couldn’t get it to locate fully, I then got a couple of bolts into the bell housing/engine and tried to draw the transmission onto the engine, I realise now that having fitted the friction plate without an alignment tool was a big mistake, it seemed to stop solid from moving into the correct position about 10mm short of its home position.
    I believe I got the gearbox far enough in that the splines are fully thru the friction plate but it seemed to stop solid at going into the pilot bearing. When I tried to release the gearbox by undoing my jacking bolts the bellhousing seemed to come forward while I was undoing them but it then stopped and wouldn’t come any further out.
    I then tried to ‘jack’ it off using screwed rod and nuts etc between the engine flange and bellhousing but again it moves forward till i have a uniform gap of 32mm between flanges then it comes to a solid stop. When I removed my jacking screws (slowly and maintaining an even gap) the transmission slowly moved back towards the engine leaving me a uniform gap of 22mm.
    no amount of wriggling and pulling seems to let them want to come apart!

    Any advice on how to get them apart would be greatly appreciated��
     
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