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Thread: Driver's door electrics - locking/windows/mirror dead

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  1. Driver's door electrics - locking/windows/mirror dead 
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    Hi,

    On my '02 A4 B6 1.6 petrol the driver's door electrics wend dead last week - nothing working - central lock (via fob and inside switch), windows (both sides) and mirrors adjustment. Also interior light on all the time and dash did not show door was open.

    Found earth wire (brown) broken where loom goes into A pillar. Removed loom from door and soldered in a patch wire and did two other on way out. I did a nice job I must say, heatshrink and new tape Checked continuity with meter including flexing it while checking.

    Put it back in car. Interior light now goes off and dash sees door is open. Passenger window now works but only from it's own switch. Everything else still dead.

    Used contact cleaner on both sides of A pillar connector and plugged it in and out many times and get positive click of tab.

    Checked all fuses related to doors and comfort module.

    Could the broken earth wire have damaged the comfort module (the one in the floor I believe), or the control unit in the door?

    Any ideas please?

    Would I need to reset an error in the ODB?

    Thanks, Kevin

    UPDATE

    Double checked wiring with a meter from cabin side of A pillar connector to end of loom in door. Disconnected battery. Locking is now working via key fob, but everything else still dead. Checked the comfort control module under carpet it's bone dry and cannot see any issues.

    I'm thinking it might be worth a try getting a new (used) motor module in the door (8E2 959 802 B), pic below.

    Would I need t get that programmed to match the key, or is that controled from the CCM?

    motor.jpg
    Last edited by kevinb6; 25-03-2018 at 03:23 PM. Reason: update
     
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  2. Re: Driver's door electrics - locking/windows/mirror dead 
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    Mines dead too buddy, if it matches the numbers I reckon it is plug and play, ive actually got a spare i'll see what the code on it is for you (bought the wrong one for my motor)
     
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  3. Re: Driver's door electrics - locking/windows/mirror dead 
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    Hi Jim!

    I rang my local Audi dealer, they wanted over 400 Euro for one. But he did say no need to program. Anyway, just got one from ebay for 20, arrived Sat - did not fix my issue.

    Many thanks for your offer of help.

    My alternator went during the week and I had to get a mobile mechanic out as I had no way to get/repair the alternator myself. I asked him to read the OBD, there were many many in the CCM saying cannoot communicate with window/mirror etc. I have checked my wires again and am getting voltage to them all bar one - I assume at least some of the wires should have no signal until activated by the CCM.

    Car is '02 so bringing it to someone could easily cost more than car is worth - anyone any ideas please?
     
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  4. Re: Driver's door electrics - locking/windows/mirror dead 
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    Nightmare mine is the same ... I even bought a loom and it didn't fix her. I reckon there are some broken wire before the door loom. Which will mean removing trims and even lifting carpet. Some craic that'll be but if you can be 100% on the wiring from start to finish it should work. Not that we get good summers here but front windows help when your rears are keep fit windows lol
     
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  5. Re: Driver's door electrics - locking/windows/mirror dead 
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    Do you have a multimeter? Unplug the connector at the motor and see if you are getting voltage. Mine has 6 wiires, an getting 12 v on 3 of them and 5 on another.
     
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  6. Re: Driver's door electrics - locking/windows/mirror dead 
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    I expect to be working at the car this weekend so I will have a go and we can compare
     
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  7. Re: Driver's door electrics - locking/windows/mirror dead 
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    Here are the codes I got:

    01705 - Selection Switch for Mirror-Adjust (E48)
    27-10 - Implausible Signal - Intermittent

    --------------
    01801 - Door Warning Lamp; Drivers Side (W30)
    57-10 - Electric Circuit Failure - Intermittent
    --------------
    01559 - Drivers Door; 59-00 Can't Unlock / 60-00 Won't save
    --------------
    00955 - Key 1: Adaptation Limit Surpassed

    --------------

    01331 - Door Control Module; Driver Side (J386): Single-Wire Operation
    Possible Symptoms

    Data Bus Comfort working in Single-Wire Mode

    Possible Causes

    Wiring/Connectors from/to Door Control Module Driver Side (J386)
    Control Module in CAN Data Bus Comfort faulty

    Possible Solutions

    Check Measuring Value Blocks (MVB)
    Check Wiring/Connectors from/to Door Control Module Driver Side (J386)



    -------

    Re the 01331 I found this that talks about testing the CAN bus (on a golf it seems but may still be useful)

    01331 - Door Control Module; Driver Side - No Communication - Wiring? - VAG Diagnostic Software Discussion - uk-mkivs

    I'm going to try removing the Comfort Control Module and its power supply to see if I can see any obvious sign of a burned out part etc

    How to Remove Comfort Control Module Power Supply ECU - Audi A4 S4 - B6 B7 - 2001-2008 - YouTube (this guy is great!)

    Audi A6 A4 Body Control Module Location & Removal 96-07 BCM OOOO - YouTube (seems to be a B5 - LHD but it is still on the left side for RHD, assuming you in the UK)
     
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  8. Re: Driver's door electrics - locking/windows/mirror dead 
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    Finally got it working!

    Used a "nuclear option" to get it fixed but it may help someone with an older car willing to do it.

    I rechecked continuity from inside the car to the end of the loom in the door where it plugs into the motor - one of the CANBUS wires open. The A pillar connectors really in bad condition so I decided to discard them. I removed the loom from the door and cut it a good 6 inches from the end and soldered in replacement wires MUCH LONGER THAN ORIGINAL and terminated with crimp bullet connectors. Make sure to use all male ones on the loom end, I didn't and ended with many sparks car side lol.

    Inside the car remove the kick panel and pull out the connector from A pillar and cut wires and crimped on the connectors. Then a simple matter to feed the loom from the door through the hole in the A pillar where the connector was. This is why you make the loom much longer than before.

    As it will be difficult to get matching wire colours be sure to very carefully label your wires on both sides. I assigned each colour a number 1 to 8. Note about soldering, on my loom the copper wires had heavey oxidation making soldering hard. The more you cut off the less oxidation you will see.

    The rubber door to pillar seal will still locate in the pillar without the connector being there, but may benefit from some glue etc to make a better seal.

    The above was the fix, but I made a silly embarrassing error I will share here in case it helps anyone. The connector from the door card that goes into the motor has a sort of cam/ratchet lever. I had not engaged this correctly and it was not making a connection. See pics for right and wrong way.

    loom.jpg
    badfit.jpg


    inserting.jpg
    correctjpg.jpg
     
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  9. Re: Driver's door electrics - locking/windows/mirror dead 
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    I found some broken pins in my door connection... Have a replacement so hopefully that'll be me on my way.
     
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  10. Re: Driver's door electrics - locking/windows/mirror dead 
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    Hope that does it for you. I'd be worried that the socket side is bad as well just check that out. If you think I can help I can PM you my contact details.
     
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