Golf 2007 2ltr 16v GT BKD cambelt tenioner stud info Please

[cbrpaul]

Hi ,

I am doing the cambelt on my 2007 golf BKD TDI soon, first change at 80k miles ( manual states a change at 100k miles with no time limit)

I have done x3 VW cambelts in the past I have all the locking tools, so i have no worries about doing the job myself



Now i have read alot about the tensioner pulley stud on the BKD .


The kit i have is a Dayco kit which contains a new tensioner stud, along with another roller bearing stud.

Anyway , after reading up on this job in various places , forums, Elsawin, some say leave the stud alone if it looks ok, and its the first cambelt change, and some say change it out, also some say VW,s torque of the nut of 20Nm + 45 deg is tight and often easily over tightened.

I know that TPS sell the cambelt OEM kit with the tensioner stud also, although VW Elsawin cambelt procedure does not mention changing the stud, ( although my version is a few years old now)


I also know a mechanic who has said he changed the tensioner stud on a VW 2ltre 16v tdi once , and it was abit of job to remove it, now he leaves them if they appear in good condition.

So my question is to the chaps who do the job often , do you change or leave the tensioner stud on the BKD engine


thanks

[FLAPPERJACK76]

I change the stud every time . I have done at least 20 bkd engines and one on whatever code they use on the Mitsubishi that uses this same engine. Any movement in the thread of the new stud and i drill and tap to m10. The way i see it is if it fails then the question from a customer will be well you changed it or well it came with a new stud in the kit so why didn't you change it. Also it's commonly known it can go pear shape on this engine.

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[cbrpaul]

I change the stud every time . I have done at least 20 bkd engines and one on whatever code they use on the Mitsubishi that uses this same engine. Any movement in the thread of the new stud and i drill and tap to m10. The way i see it is if it fails then the question from a customer will be well you changed it or well it came with a new stud in the kit so why didn't you change it. Also it's commonly known it can go pear shape on this engine.

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thanks for the reply , much appreciated ,

Am i right in thinking that when you tap it out to M10 your going up from the M8 pre existing size , and then buying a tensioner stud for a BMM engine tensioner as they use a M10 as standard ?

I also read online a machinist is heli-coiling the stud for a local VW dealer about 3 to 4 times week on a regular basis !!!

I am wondering whether to bite the bullet on this one , and let VW do the job, only due to the fact they give 2 year warranty and if they **** it up I can expect them to repair it.

[FLAPPERJACK76]

thanks for the reply , much appreciated ,

Am i right in thinking that when you tap it out to M10 your going up from the M8 pre existing size , and then buying a tensioner stud for a BMM engine tensioner as they use a M10 as standard ?

I also read online a machinist is heli-coiling the stud for a local VW dealer about 3 to 4 times week on a regular basis !!!

I am wondering whether to bite the bullet on this one , and let VW do the job, only due to the fact they give 2 year warranty and if they **** it up I can expect them to repair it.

Some are standard m8 in the head some later engines are m10 in the head but with an m8 stud for the tensioner (2 different sizes on the actual replacement stud one end m8 and other end m10). Yep might be worth vw doing the job with the 2 year warranty. If you get the gates new design kit it comes with a completely redesigned tensioner that tensions anti clockwise and in my opinion is a better way. Seen a few engineering shops using the actual replacement stud photo on there web page
So must be common for them.

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[cbrpaul]

" If you get the gates new design kit it comes with a completely redesigned tensioner that tensions anti clockwise"

Now thats interesting,

Its going to cost me an extra £250 going with VW , but the car only has 82k miles on it, so i want it to last me a few more years yet

[Ste81]

I got my golf 2.0 gt sport 2007 cam belt and water pump done at vw last month £399 all in

[cbrpaul]

I got my golf 2.0 gt sport 2007 cam belt and water pump done at vw last month £399 all in

thanks ,

Was that price fully inclusive of VAT , coolant top up etc please ?,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,, what about the aux/alt belt ?

Also what mileage was it done at ?

[Ste81]

Yes fully inclusive of vat plus coolant,

[cbrpaul]

Just to update,

I have now completed my cambelt change, just to say some things I found in case some reads this and is about to do the job also that may help them

I have done a few cambelts , but this is my first PD twin cam job.

I decided to follow the manufacturer guide on this BKD engine
Install timing belt (set the timing)

I found the counter holding tool a god send, also loosening ( not removing) the 6 camshaft sprockets bolts ( locking tools inserted) and turning the cams sprockets only fully clockwise helped new belt install then when tensioning the tensioner tension of the belt is applied evenly around all of the belt, with no slack spots between cams or by water pump , this also enabled small timing adjustments on the camshafts themselfs and ensuring the locking tools slid in out nicely with ease, i would not recommend using drill bits as cam locking tools, the correct locking kit can be had for £7 on the popular auction site and they worked perfect for me.

I know some have said the proper cam locking tools are hard to remove after , using the above method and making very very small tapping adjustments on the camshaft centre bolt ensures perfect timing after the belt is fitted.

The old cambelt was fine , but the tensioner itself seemed very tired and has lost some tension, hence the belt was slightly loose, I also had slight judder on idle before the cambelt change , however that has all disappeared with the new cambelt

My car had 80k miles and is 10 years old this was its 1st cambelt change. i genuinely think that over time the tesnioner looses its tension along with belt stretch.

i also have slight MPG improvement !!!



UPDATE ,,

Today i checked my torsion value using VCDS since my cambelt change ( wanted new belt to settle a little ) , it was -2.0 which i was surprised at, ( before the cambelt change it was -1.5) , ideally it should be 0.0 , also my fuel consumption was 0.8 l/h

So i adjusted, i wont go into how as there are plenty of " how toos" around for this procedure, anyway after adjustment i got the torsion value to 0.0 and the fuel consumption down to 0.6 l/h which is what i wanted.

Car is now even better on mpg , on a long straight flat A road in 6th today doing around 50mph , i was getting 60 - 70 mpg,

What i deduce from this is ,,, even though i used the correct locking tools, the torsion needs to be fine adjusted using VCDS, i think you will be very lucky if its perfect by using the locking tools alone, as the fine adjustments are so small.

It may take 4 -5 attempts to get the perfect values using VCDS ,,,,, and they are very very very fine adjustments !

[ChicksFan]

And the tensioner stud ???