Passat 2.0tdi dsg 170 starting problems from cold

**FLAPPERJACK76** · 19-06-2017,07:37 PM

Done a couple without removing anything. Very tight awkward angle to get a 4mm ball end long socket in. I now think it's easier to unbolt the intake pipe and undo the oil filter housing and swing it over and secure it with bungee strap. Think the official labour time is something stupid like 54 minutes labour. If the bolt is rounded off then its more miserable than i ever found.

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**scanny1** · 19-06-2017,08:12 PM

Had it on a golf mk5 gttdi 1 hr job turned into 4 hrs same happened sheared off the head .just hoping the crank sensor is causing the issues I have with my Passat

**scanny1** · 24-06-2017,08:44 AM

Had.the crank sensor replaced nearly 400 as the gear box had to come off Stoll the same struggles to start first thing in the morning its OK after that any ideas where I can go from here

**scanny1** · 24-06-2017,04:16 PM

Cleaned the egr but didn't make any different think I won't be having a vw again constant problems

**DMitch16** · 24-06-2017,06:14 PM

Have you actually had your car scanned for fault codes using the right equipment i.e. VCDS, VAS, Snap On Professional or equivalent software?

I had fault codes for crank and camshaft sensors come up recently whilst trying to start the car after a timing belt change. They do not mean these parts have failed and unless you know much about the engines you will spend unnecessary money on replacing parts that are still fine. Sometimes the ECU cannot interpret the feedback from its sensors or there is a short somewhere in the wiring that triggers red herring faults such as crank and cam sensor issues (implausible, intermittent, out of range values). Other times the fault codes narrow down to the sensor or area for which the ECU is receiving incorrect values. The interpretation of certain values issued at the point of a fault along with understanding of what was happening at the time of a fault are crucial parts of the fault diagnostic process.

If it were me I would have used scanning software (VCDS in my case) to a ) provide me with any fault codes that my be present and b) to record engine data at startup to see if something looked out of place value wise.

It is easy to condemn any car that is problematic if throwing money at trying to solve a problem without understanding what is happening to the engine and peripherals. Too many "mechanics" out there are not mechanics (and I truly praise those that are knowledgeable, able to identify problems on newer cars and be able to permanently cure or at least remedy the problem for a long enough if a known time / distance related issue like EGR clogging) and are trained in replacement rather than in engineering prowess. If you replace enough parts you have a great chance of eliminating an issue at least so it looks like it's cured but the underlying conditions that caused the problem in the first place might still be there.

**scanny1** · 24-06-2017,07:05 PM

Yes ,I had taken it to a vw specialist they use the vcds and came up with crank sensor fault but they had a problem undoing it so the gear box had to be removed yesterday .i got the car back yesterday I started it up and it's the same as before takes about 5 to 6 cranks before starting up but once started it will start no issues throughout the day I think it's a fuelling issue ?

**scanny1** · 24-06-2017,07:10 PM

I've not replaced any randem part without reason .i changed the tandem pump last year because it failed as well as the pump in the tank that failed to and the 2 glowpugs low resistance I have some mechanical knowledge being a engineer but would rather leave it to the experts but think they are struggling ,I've now taken it to 2 specialist and not sure what it could be

**scanny1** · 25-06-2017,07:30 PM

Also taken the Egr valve off in case it was sticking cleaned it down but car still starts tha same as before

**DMitch16** · 25-06-2017,07:55 PM

Looking at it simply there are only a few things needed for a near instant start. Air, fuel and compression.

Good battery, good starter motor, fuel, a good dual mass flywheel i.e. not separated, stiff or even seized due to wear (they do wear / fail and starting is sometimes affected as it gets worse), good compression, the correct valve timing and the right start conditions for the ECU to be completely happy.

The trouble is other systems like emissions controls interfere and cause these cars not to start it becomes increasingly frustrating trying to find out what the real issue is.