Passat estate 2.0 Tdi B6 BKP Engine "EGR Valve" problem

[John0]

Hello,

My VW Passat Estate 2.0 TDI high line (154000)came back from a health check. I got a short video as well now no longer available. On the video they were pointing at a broken valve at the rear of the engine. The report refers to EGR valve (£1032 to repair/replace). I have had no problem with the car as regards warning lights/limp home.

when I look in the manual the EGR valve seems to be fitted near the inlet manifold so what is this other valve/flap ??? Device
they are referring to .

Interestingly it had a similar health check three weeks before when it went in for the emission correction and nothing was found/seen.

As you can no doubt tell I am not over familiar with the mechanics of this particular car . Any advice/guidance welcome. Thank you

[Gazwould]

Egr is at the front of the engine and below it is the throttle body made by Pierburg .

Throttle body is also a known weak component because of internal plastic cogs that break .

Strange or Jackanory that they say there is something wrong with the egr and you are not experiencing any problems .

[John0]

Hello, thank you for response. I think I am going to have to put the car on my ramps/axle stand get under and have a look. As I said they were pointing at a component high up at the back of the engine. If you have ever worked on old fashioned cars with front to rear engine,gearbox,prop it would be around about where to top front of the bell housing was. Would an EGR replacement even be £1032 ..

[Gazwould]

£1032 , only if you like being raped .

I'm assuming they mean egr cooler ?

[John0]

Yes, that looks like the video. Is this doable at home ? I have a pretty comprehensive set of tools , jack, ramps etc but I do not have anything to rated codes,reset engine management systems etc.

if it is doable where best to buy the parts and, if I have to take this assembly apart should I also take off the valve and clean it

[DMitch16]

Yes replacing the EGR cooler is very doable. The valve they are referring to is the secondary vacuum operated cooler flap which opens and closes controlling the flow volume of gases through the cooler. The cooler tube has 2 sections one with smaller multiple cooling tubes and one with a single larger cooling tube.
The valve shuts off one section if only light cooling of gases is necessary and opens when more cooling is needed. On some engines the cooler is accessible from each side as it is mounted under the exhaust manifold / turbo unit (remove air boxes and OSF wheel arch liners). I did mine as part of a turbo change so had the subframe removed giving loads of access but this takes longer and you'll need subframe alignment pins, new subframe bolts, new ball joint nuts, new driveshaft flange bolts, a new steering joint bolt and new hub bolts (all renewables). Those with ELSA will have access to the model specific repair procedures from the VW workshop manual that ELSA has.

[John0]

Hello,

I can see from the Haynes Manual that I need to remove the Air boxes etc. from the top right side of the engine but I am assuming I need to get at the bolts at the back of the Engine to remove this cooler. Can that be done from the top ??

I have seen photographs of the cooler and various offer on EBAY. Is this a part worth looking at second hand ? I am pretty much always of the opinion that a second hand part is as likely to be worn out as the one you have on the car unless you know something specific about the donor vehicle but I am not familiar with these devices.


I am communicating with VW to see if they will contribute but not holding my breath obviously.


As I said I have the Haynes Manual. I will see about getting this ELSA information also


Many thanks

[DMitch16]

A lot of used parts on ebay are from crash damaged beyond economical repair vehicles. Provided the car has had the right coolant mixture and not just filled up with water or a very weak mixture then corrosion inside these coolers is limited. They are too far up above the subframe to suffer much external corrosion so those that do eventually leak are few and far between. My EGR cooler when replaced was off another 2007 engine and the original when pressure tested was fine (it was a porous / cracked head that was eventually diagnosed as the cause of my coolant loss) so I sold it on for the same price as the used replacement. Still good 80k down the line.

Find one that states pressure tested or ask the seller if it has been tested. Alternatively look for one where the coolant pipes have been cut off as these will be from a salvage company who have stripped a car down so it won't be being sold because there is a fault with it. Examine pictures carefully for signs of corrosion.

Good luck with VW as there's not a hope in hell's chance of them contributing for an EGR cooler. It's bad enough trying to get them to honour recalls on these cars if the recall work hasn't been done this far down the line.

[Gazwould]

Blank and remap...