2000 A6 C5 auto gearbox - slow to get into second

[dadude]

Hello all,

Had great time reading about the A6 auto gearbox niceties.

Now my 2000 A6 C5, 144 k milles, engine code AFB, automatic gearbox ETV:

- has been slow to shift into second gear intermittently x 6 mo, now all the time.
- will auto shift at only around 3000 rpm - 20 mph; no shuddering.
- high speed gear changes are OK
- can flick auto gear selector to manual, but gears do not shift from 1st to second when I try to
- all gears are lit on the dash.
- goes well into reverse.
- no gearbox service that I know. Bought the car used 4 ys ago, with 100k miles.


1. Exactly what type of gearbox is ETV?
CVT or tiptronic?
2. Car runs GREAT otherwise and I would love / have to keep it.
What to do?
Where do I start?
Kindly advise - honest / good tranny shops in South London.
Any advice is appreciated.

Many thanks,

Mike

[Hannu5]

It looks to me like that code relates to a conventional autobox with torque converter and not a CVT type gearbox.

If that's the case, then it's most likely to be a ZF transmissions design or in house derivative of that type.

The problem you describe is very close to a common one ascribed to that type and make, usually attributed to impaired function of an internal
speed governor that results in it hanging onto first gear until higher rpm, most particularly when first used.

If there are no obvious sign that the oil's been changed, then that along with a filter would appear the most likely first approach in attempting a
remedy.

It would normally be advised to get the diagnostic codes read to ascertain if that gives a more conclusive pointer and direction to approach it with.

[dadude]

Hannu5 - many thanks.

Mike

[dadude]

Hi all,

Per instructions, had the car error codes scanned.
Scott at rimsengineering.co.uk is a very nice, very honest guy.

My ETV gearbox is actually the 5 speed tiptronic ZF5HP19FL

Scott says I have electrical problems / wet gearbox control unit, not gearbox problems.
I never saw wet footwells, but there was condensation in the car when it sat locked in the sun.

I'll look into removing the battery, cleaning the drain behind it, remove the seats and get to gearbox control unit.

Gearbox fault codes:

P1857 - Load Signal Error Message from Engine Control Unit
P0706 - Transmission range sensor circuit

WHAT are these codes? - What do they mean? What to do?

He cleared the codes, gearbox has been shifting last 12 hrs as it should !

While he was at it, he got the motor fault codes as well:

00550 - Commence of injection regulation Regulation Deviation /SP
00575 - INT.MANI.I Outside Regulation Limit /SP
01375 - STAGE 1 ENGINE SUPPORT VALVE Output invalid/ Shor to Power Supply /SP

WHAT are these codes? - What do they mean? What to do?

Cheers, Mike

[niall campbell]

lift the battery out and remove the two rubber bungs

Think theres one near or under the brake servo as well as the battery

Gently hose out the area , lifting wires, cables to wash out the dirt trapped.




I would then see if any boxes have signs of dampness in the scuttle area, perhaps opening boxes and sticking a hairdryer in them to ensure everything dry


Then monitor car


I agree with oil change & filter if fitted to gearbox.................................. check Audi for up to date specs in their Parts Department ................... its free

[dadude]

Niall - thanks for all the good advice.

You said "check Audi for up to date specs in their Parts Department" - you mean call Audi to get the right gearbox fluid and filter, right?

Cheers, Mike

[Hannu5]

Looks like a way forward.

I look at water in the car like this; people in the car in wet weather with condensation on the windows, it's the people and wet clothes. No people in the car and wet
windows, it's definitely got water in there somewhere. The top of the carpets show very little of any water ingress, it's usually all underneath them.

I'd agree with you in needing to get it dried out, there are two water outlets in the front plenum area, one under the battery and one under the brake servo. Make sure
both are free to drain out.

That plenum contains the engine control ECU as far as I understand, it's on the far rhs and can be submerged if the drains are blocked.

I'm fine for knowledge in working on cars but not up to scratch regarding the codes for these so some greater input than mine could be required.
The gearbox codes seems to be saying that the torque / power demands when you used the throttle are not being communicated to the gearbox
ECU under the driver's seat (I think) consistently as it needs this to modulate it's changes in proportion to how much the driver is booting it. This
may be because the multi pin plugs to the ecu have been affected by water at one end or the other. If not damaged, it's possible that it could not
repeat if all dried out and connections not corroded.

The engine codes appear to be a control valve in the fuel injection pump that is controlled by the engine ecu. Again, this could have been affected
by the ecu and plug being submerged. As before, complete dry out and inspection may bring a cure. These, engine errors, can also be caused during
a routine service of the fuel filter if air was left in the supply when it was changed. If that's the case, it would during normal running rectify itself but may
in the interim have triggered and logged that fault code.
It would give you more of an insight if the number of times that code was logged was known. Relatively low numbers maybe just the filter changed but
large numbers would suggest an ongoing fault / effect was present.

It would be reasonable to dry out, make sure no wiring connections are damaged, then run it for a while. If all ok, then get the codes read again to make
sure it's not coming up again.

I'd heard Rims were good but no reason to use them as yet as I'm not far from there.

They are a great car as you say, so hope you get further progress.
We've only owned ours, a 2000 year Avant for a year but just come back from a 1900 mile family holiday across France, one of the best
we've had.

[niall campbell]

yes that's exactly what I meant

the specs for the oil change over time

it might not be much more to buy the oil from Audi direct or TPS ( trade part specialist) , but you need the specs