A4 2.0 tdi oil pump.

**robcts** · 11-04-2017,08:30 PM

Hi there

How bad is this situation with the oil pumps in the A4 2.0 tdi engines. Is it as common as people say? I really want an Audi A4 diesel but the oil pump issue does worry me.

Any advice or honest opinions would be greatly appreciated.

Rob

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**Gazwould** · 11-04-2017,08:35 PM

Buy one with the fix or fix it .

**robcts** · 11-04-2017,08:48 PM

Originally Posted by Gazwould

Buy one with the fix or fix it .

Thanks gaz but really want to know if it's as bad as people say it is. Whether it's a 1 in 10 or 5 in 10 cars affected.

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**Martin_Belewski** · 11-04-2017,08:57 PM

Ive read load on this it is hit and miss but if your alreadys looking at it then find a car thats had the mod shaft or get it changed as soon as yoh can after buying the car

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**Gazwould** · 11-04-2017,09:24 PM

They will all fail from a 55k low miler to a 400k taxi .

Most common is 80-150k .

**Mario** · 12-04-2017,08:37 AM

Originally Posted by robcts

Thanks gaz but really want to know if it's as bad as people say it is. Whether it's a 1 in 10 or 5 in 10 cars affected.

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I think the honest answer to that is no-one TRUELY knows apart from VW / Audi. However there do seem to be a lot, even 1 in 10 is A LOT for a car that sold millions world wide. Realistically....feel free to buy one, they are good cars / engines, but either get one that has reciepts to prove the work has been done or budget an extra £800-ish to get it done.

Parts cost £215 from KMB + about £80 in single use bolts from Audi (subframe bolts, balance shaft mounting bolts, etc) + oil (£50) + oil filter (£5) + 4-5 hours labour (£420 for a garage charging £70 + VAT per hour).

Some people re-use the single use bolts, but they are stretch bolts and SHOULD be replaced, but if you don't want to, then take £80 off your bill and it will be nearer £700 you should budget.

Or if you are handy with the spanners you can do it yourself. The process goes Lock Engine in TDC Position > Drain Oil > Support Engine > Disconnect Sub-frame (needed to remove sump) > Remove Sump > Remove Balance Shaft module > Swap for KMB Parts > Refit

If you want more details, feel free to ask. Not trying to scare you with what needs done or the cost, but just trying to make you aware so you don't get caught out if you do buy one that has not been done yet.

**Gazwould** · 12-04-2017,08:54 AM

Depends on which engine you get , BLB is double trouble as it's chain driven so has the extra of the chain tensioner breaking.

2 choices if you get chain driven , either convert to gear with remanufactured modified balancer shaft and 100mm oil pump drive hex key or uprated chain sprocket and tensioner kit with said 100mm balancer shaft / key kit .

Gear driven twin Lancaster balancer shafts is more simple with just a £215 kit as above.

**robcts** · 12-04-2017,11:32 AM

Got a garage down the road who have very reasonable prices. Also got a friend who has a pit.
Take everything off to get to the pump I can do. It's taking the pump out that I have no idea about. Is it difficult?

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**Mario** · 12-04-2017,02:06 PM

Originally Posted by robcts

Got a garage down the road who have very reasonable prices. Also got a friend who has a pit.
Take everything off to get to the pump I can do. It's taking the pump out that I have no idea about. Is it difficult?

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The difficult part is getting the sump off, as the engine needs to be supported from above while the subframe is dropped a little and moved out of the way.

Also, as Gaz said, if the car has a chain drive system (older ones, generally 2005 / early 2006) and you convert to gear driven it's a lot more in depth. Save yourself that hassle and get a 2007 car to be safe.

Engine codes which seem to have gear driven from the factory are BVG, BVS, BBA, BRD and BRE

Chain driven systems seem to be engine codes BPW, BNA, BRF and BLB

There will be a sticker in the boot near the spare wheel that tells you the engine code. It will also be in the V5 document and the service booklet, so make sure they all match with a gear driven engine.

Taking the pump out is easy once all the rest is out of the way. Literally as soon as the sump is off the balance shaft / oil pump unit is right infront of you and held on with 8 bolts, that's it!!

Note, you will need some special tools!! To re-align the subframe Audi use special pins and to access the 2 rear sump bolts you need a REALLY long 5mm ball end allen key. Again, Audi have a special tool for this, I believe their own one is 230mm long. You also need the correct tools to lock the timing cam / crank in place and to lock the balancer shaft in place when re-fitting, but all of these are either cheap or can be improvised on. For example, a socket of the right size can be used instead of the special pins, timing lockig kit is £20 as is the balance shaft locking tool.

If you want I can send you the official Audi workshop instructions to see what you need to do.

Only thing you will need to do over and above what Audi says is undo the bolts on the balance shaft module to seperate the 2 halves and replace the individual balancer. Audi only replace the unit as a whole, hence that extra step is not in their workshop manuals.