Audi A4 2.0 tdi s line oil pump

[robcts]

Is 2008 or 2009?


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[Mario]

I'd get a B6 1.9 tdi or B8 2.0 tdi .

The B8 2.0 TDI still suffered the exact same 77mm oil pump issue. VW / Audi never changed to a 100mm solution until 2010. If you go for a B8 to be safe, get a 2011 or newer model. Not sure exactly when in 2010 the change was made, and there is no way to know without opening up the engine.

[Gazwould]

My bad , B8.5 then .

[robcts]

The B8 2.0 TDI still suffered the exact same 77mm oil pump issue. VW / Audi never changed to a 100mm solution until 2010. If you go for a B8 to be safe, get a 2011 or newer model. Not sure exactly when in 2010 the change was made, and there is no way to know without opening up the engine.

Ok looks like I'm gonna have to wait then. The 11 plates are a little out of my price range. Is there conversion kit to the 100mm for earlier models and is there a cheap way of doing it? I.e a good cheap conversion kit?


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[robcts]

Does the 2.5 tdi suffer from this as well?


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[Gazwould]

Nope .

[Gazwould]

Ok looks like I'm gonna have to wait then. The 11 plates are a little out of my price range. Is there conversion kit to the 100mm for earlier models and is there a cheap way of doing it? I.e a good cheap conversion kit?


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http://www.kmbpartsdirect.co.uk

[Mario]

Ok looks like I'm gonna have to wait then. The 11 plates are a little out of my price range. Is there conversion kit to the 100mm for earlier models and is there a cheap way of doing it? I.e a good cheap conversion kit?


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Yes there is a conversion kit as linked to by gaz. The specific kit you need depends on your engine. One converts the chain driven pump (generally pre-2006 cars) to a 100mm gear driven setup. The other converts the 77mm gear driven setup (generally mid to late 2006 car) to a 100mm gear driven setup. You can tell if you would have a gear or chain driven setup by the engine code of the car.

The kits are available from Oil Pumps - KMB Parts Direct

The kits required for a 2007 car would be kit 9. Cost of the kits is £215 + £125 refundable deposit which you get back when you return your old parts.

Labour would be about 4-ish hours at a specialist, give or take a bit here & there if memory serves correctly.


So so if you budget in about £600 - £700 all in you could get the conversion done and have piece of mind.

Does the 2.5 tdi suffer from this as well?


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No, but they may suffer from their own issues. Best to research up on those.


EDIT: Here is the procedure for replacing the balance shaft with the modified version. Thanks to Gaz for this....

Disconnect battery negative lead.
Slacken OSF wheel nuts.
Jack up car slightly to remove undershield and remove wheel and wheel arch liner.
Slacken auxiliary belt tensioner and lock off with suitable "pin" (allen key, drill bit or short handled screwdriver) and remove auxiliary belt noting its rotational direction.

Remove timing belt covers and crank pulley.
Drain oil.
Jack up higher and support with axle stands at suitable points to the rear of the subframe to allow room to work under engine.
Disconnect oil level sensor plug, remove sump, remove leftover silicone sealant from sump edge and crank carrier surfaces as you will need to reseal the sump for refitting - their is no sump gasket.

At this point you will see the balancer shaft unit bolted below the crank.
Lock cams and toothed crankshaft cog at TDC with appropriate locking tools.
This also locks the balancer drive cog on the back of the crank gear cog inside the sump area.
Support balancer unit and undo the 8 retaining bolts, if I remember rightly one of these is a long oil pump bolt and they are different sizes so use a piece of cardboard and pop them in the same positions on the cardboard noting that you are looking upwards at the balancer unit (renewal of the bolts is recommended as they are stretch type with additional angle stage tightening).
Wiggle the unit slightly and it should come away - it is HEAVY!!
Lower it carefully, it still has a lot of oil inside and remove from under the car.

Remove circlip from oil pump drive key hole (it's very small - renew it).
Drive key can be removed with a small magnet or by feeding it through from the balance shaft end.
Balancer unit is in two halves. Remove strainer pipe checking gauze is clear (clean pipe and gauze if necessary and renew pipe seal).
Undo retaining bolts again they may be different sizes and lift off top half leaving bottom half with balancer shafts in situ.
Shafts can be lifted out from bottom half of unit and gearing checked.
Replacement is usually no 2 shaft which has the drive key hole for the pump with a modified version (yours or exchange).
Clean visible oil channels on both halves and inspect shell bearings of balancer unit where shafts sit. Renew shells if worn or scored.

Apply thick oil or assembly lube to inside of shells and clean balance shaft journals.
When replacing a shaft ensure that the flat surface of the balance weight on each shaft sit level with each other (once their gear cogs have been reintroduced) in the bottom half of the balancer unit.
Apply assembly lube to balance shaft gear cogs.

Fit a new upgraded drive key of the correct length with retaining circlip.
Refitting is the reverse of removal noting that a special tool will be needed to retain the shafts in a specific position in the balance unit to align the drive gears and ensure they marry correctly before bolting the unit to the specific torque / angle settings.

A very small amount of backlash (backward rotation of the intermediate cog) should be present after refitting the unit.
This is necessary to avoid gear damage or excess wear.
You should have very slight rotational "play" for want of a better word when turning the lower gear cog against the intermediate one.
This is necessary to avoid gear damage or excess wear. Too tight against each other and the gear teeth will grind.

Seal sump with silicone sealant before refitting. Refit all other components removed applying correct torque settings.

CHECK: REMOVE ALL LOCKING TOOLS AND REFILL OIL!!

Rotate engine by hand a few turns to ensure free movement and no sticking of balancer unit gearing.

Reconnect battery and start .

Also, I just found a place selling the balance shafts NEW, not re-manufactured for £149.99 with NO EXCHANGE or deposit!

Passat & A4 2.0 TDI balance shaft